Why has my Russian Tortoise been act off?

Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
7
So I'm a new member with a Russian tort named Walter. I got him last year for a Christmas present. When we got him he kale like a horse and the occasional apple slice. Of course we also give him pellets along with all this. But recently he has not been eating as much, and has been staying in his pool for much longer periods of time. It may be the time of year for hibernation but I'd like to know just to be safe if anyone knows why he has been showing this behavior recently. Btw he started eating a little more lately but still not as much. Thank you for any answers!!!
 

Oogway the russian tort

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Joined
Dec 13, 2016
Messages
224
I don't think it is hibernation bit it might be. Also you shouldn't feed ur Russian tort ANY FRUITS it is bad for them. To see what's going on tell us the temp u have in his enclosure and how long and when do u soak him
 

SarahChelonoidis

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1,891
Location (City and/or State)
Toronto, Canada
Tis the season for sluggish Testudo. Best to double check your lights and heat - how warm is your basking spot? How cold is it getting over night? How long is the light on during the day? How old is your UVB bulb?
 

JoesMum

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10 Year Member!
Joined
Oct 26, 2011
Messages
21,584
Location (City and/or State)
Kent, South East England
So I'm a new member with a Russian tort named Walter. I got him last year for a Christmas present.
Hello and welcome to TFO

Sorry, this became a rather long post, but I tried to answer all your questions.

A few questions to start:
What are the temperatures in your enclosure?
What types of bulb are you using for basking heat and UVB light?
Do you soak your tortoise and does it have free access to water?
What's the humidity in the enclosure?
How big is your enclosure and how long is your tortoise? Here's how to measure the SCL of your tortoise http://www.tlady.clara.net/measure.htm

Photos of the enclosure and lighting will help us to help you :)

Have you read our care guides for Russians? They're written by species experts working hard to correct the outdated information widely available on the internet and from pet stores and, sadly, from some breeders and vets too.

Beginner Mistakes
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

Russian Tortoise Care
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/

When we got him he kale like a horse and the occasional apple slice. Of course we also give him pellets along with all this.
A Russian's diet is leafy weedy greens. Few of us manage at this time of year without supplementing with store bought greens.

Your tort needs more variety of greens in its diet. Look up the ones that grow around you and the ones you can buy online on The Tortoise Table Plant Database (TTT) for suitability
http://thetortoisetable.org.uk/site/plant_database_14.asp

Russians cannot digest sugars properly - they cause digestive and kidney problems - fruit, carrot, bell pepper and tomato should only be fed very sparingly and very occasionally, if at all.

A very tiny pinch of calcium powder should be sprinkled on food three times a week - no more as you can overdo it.

But recently he has not been eating as much, and has been staying in his pool for much longer periods of time. It may be the time of year for hibernation but I'd like to know just to be safe if anyone knows why he has been showing this behavior recently. Btw he started eating a little more lately but still not as much. Thank you for any answers!!!
The main reasons for inactivity and appetite loss in a tortoise are

Incorrect temperatures
Too cold is most common. Temperatures need to be measured accurately at tortoise level using a digital thermometer. The analogue type that sticks to a wall isn't accurate enough.

There are 4 important temperatures - warm side, cool side, directly under the basking lamp and overnight minimum. A Russian must be able to bask at 95-100F in order to digest food and be active. Overnight temperatures must not drop below 65F.

Poor hydration

Change
Some tortoises handle change better than others. A new or rearranged home, a new owner or too much handling can trigger fear that leads to a tort deciding the world wants to eat him.

A tortoise does best with all 4 feet on the ground in the enclosure where temperatures and humidity are good.

Don't let your Russian roam your home - for a start they're amazing escape artists - as it will be away from the heat, humidity and UVB it needs to be healthy. There's also a risk of it being stepped on, you only have to be distracted for a moment, and of it ingesting things that cause gut blockages such as dust bunnies and hair or brightly coloured non-edible items (they're not very clever)

Build trust by establishing a routine:
- Have the lights come on and go off using a timer for 12-14 hours
- Before your tort has warmed up properly, soak him for at least 20 minutes in warm water. Use a flat-bottomed, high sided bowl that he can't see over or through.
- While your tort soaks, tidy the enclosure and place food
- Replace your tort and walk away. Leave him alone to explore and be brave. Resist the temptation to stand watching

The time of year
Russians do have a strong urge to hibernate that seems to be triggered by shortening days. Having the lights on bright for 14 hours and being sure it's warm enough should help counter this.
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
7
Hello and welcome to TFO

Sorry, this became a rather long post, but I tried to answer all your questions.

A few questions to start:
What are the temperatures in your enclosure?
What types of bulb are you using for basking heat and UVB light?
Do you soak your tortoise and does it have free access to water?
What's the humidity in the enclosure?
How big is your enclosure and how long is your tortoise? Here's how to measure the SCL of your tortoise http://www.tlady.clara.net/measure.htm

Photos of the enclosure and lighting will help us to help you :)

Have you read our care guides for Russians? They're written by species experts working hard to correct the outdated information widely available on the internet and from pet stores and, sadly, from some breeders and vets too.

Beginner Mistakes
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

Russian Tortoise Care
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/


A Russian's diet is leafy weedy greens. Few of us manage at this time of year without supplementing with store bought greens.

Your tort needs more variety of greens in its diet. Look up the ones that grow around you and the ones you can buy online on The Tortoise Table Plant Database (TTT) for suitability
http://thetortoisetable.org.uk/site/plant_database_14.asp

Russians cannot digest sugars properly - they cause digestive and kidney problems - fruit, carrot, bell pepper and tomato should only be fed very sparingly and very occasionally, if at all.

A very tiny pinch of calcium powder should be sprinkled on food three times a week - no more as you can overdo it.


The main reasons for inactivity and appetite loss in a tortoise are

Incorrect temperatures
Too cold is most common. Temperatures need to be measured accurately at tortoise level using a digital thermometer. The analogue type that sticks to a wall isn't accurate enough.

There are 4 important temperatures - warm side, cool side, directly under the basking lamp and overnight minimum. A Russian must be able to bask at 95-100F in order to digest food and be active. Overnight temperatures must not drop below 65F.

Poor hydration

Change
Some tortoises handle change better than others. A new or rearranged home, a new owner or too much handling can trigger fear that leads to a tort deciding the world wants to eat him.

A tortoise does best with all 4 feet on the ground in the enclosure where temperatures and humidity are good.

Don't let your Russian roam your home - for a start they're amazing escape artists - as it will be away from the heat, humidity and UVB it needs to be healthy. There's also a risk of it being stepped on, you only have to be distracted for a moment, and of it ingesting things that cause gut blockages such as dust bunnies and hair or brightly coloured non-edible items (they're not very clever)

Build trust by establishing a routine:
- Have the lights come on and go off using a timer for 12-14 hours
- Before your tort has warmed up properly, soak him for at least 20 minutes in warm water. Use a flat-bottomed, high sided bowl that he can't see over or through.
- While your tort soaks, tidy the enclosure and place food
- Replace your tort and walk away. Leave him alone to explore and be brave. Resist the temptation to stand watching

The time of year
Russians do have a strong urge to hibernate that seems to be triggered by shortening days. Having the lights on bright for 14 hours and being sure it's warm enough should help counter this.
Walter has free access to a soaking pool and his lights are always either zoo med or repti light is what I think it's called. The basking spot is really hot although I don't have an exact temperature of the baskining spot. Walter is about a 5 inch long male who is not all that shy. We did recently move but that shouldn't effect much because he has an indoor wooden enclosure that we almost never move other than for an anual cleaning. I don't believe it gets any colder than 65 degrees at night. The current time of year is mid-winter. The habitat is 6 square foot give or take. And the lights can be a little random because I'm not old enough to drive and it depends on what time my parents get off of work usually 5-8 and the lights go on around 5:30 - 6:30.
 

JoesMum

Well-Known Member
10 Year Member!
Joined
Oct 26, 2011
Messages
21,584
Location (City and/or State)
Kent, South East England
Walter has free access to a soaking pool and his lights are always either zoo med or repti light is what I think it's called. The basking spot is really hot although I don't have an exact temperature of the baskining spot. Walter is about a 5 inch long male who is not all that shy. We did recently move but that shouldn't effect much because he has an indoor wooden enclosure that we almost never move other than for an anual cleaning. I don't believe it gets any colder than 65 degrees at night. The current time of year is mid-winter. The habitat is 6 square foot give or take. And the lights can be a little random because I'm not old enough to drive and it depends on what time my parents get off of work usually 5-8 and the lights go on around 5:30 - 6:30.
You must know the temperatures in your enclosure and the lights must be on continuously for at least 12 hours. They cannot be switched off just because people go out.

Get a timer for the lights; they're not expensive. You plug it into the wall socket and plug the power cord into the timer.

For temperature you need a gun type thermometer like the one I pictures below. You/your parents should be able to get one for under $15 from Amazon or a hardware store
ImageUploadedByTortoise Forum1483620567.200621.jpg

Your tortoise will get very sick if you don't have the correct temperatures so you need to sort out a routine and a thermometer as soon as possible
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
7
You must know the temperatures in your enclosure and the lights must be on continuously for at least 12 hours. They cannot be switched off just because people go out.

Get a timer for the lights; they're not expensive. You plug it into the wall socket and plug the power cord into the timer.

For temperature you need a gun type thermometer like the one I pictures below. You/your parents should be able to get one for under $15 from Amazon or a hardware store
View attachment 196412

Your tortoise will get very sick if you don't have the correct temperatures so you need to sort out a routine and a thermometer as soon as possible
Will do
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
7
Hello and welcome to TFO

Sorry, this became a rather long post, but I tried to answer all your questions.

A few questions to start:
What are the temperatures in your enclosure?
What types of bulb are you using for basking heat and UVB light?
Do you soak your tortoise and does it have free access to water?
What's the humidity in the enclosure?
How big is your enclosure and how long is your tortoise? Here's how to measure the SCL of your tortoise http://www.tlady.clara.net/measure.htm

Photos of the enclosure and lighting will help us to help you :)

Have you read our care guides for Russians? They're written by species experts working hard to correct the outdated information widely available on the internet and from pet stores and, sadly, from some breeders and vets too.

Beginner Mistakes
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

Russian Tortoise Care
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/


A Russian's diet is leafy weedy greens. Few of us manage at this time of year without supplementing with store bought greens.

Your tort needs more variety of greens in its diet. Look up the ones that grow around you and the ones you can buy online on The Tortoise Table Plant Database (TTT) for suitability
http://thetortoisetable.org.uk/site/plant_database_14.asp

Russians cannot digest sugars properly - they cause digestive and kidney problems - fruit, carrot, bell pepper and tomato should only be fed very sparingly and very occasionally, if at all.

A very tiny pinch of calcium powder should be sprinkled on food three times a week - no more as you can overdo it.


The main reasons for inactivity and appetite loss in a tortoise are

Incorrect temperatures
Too cold is most common. Temperatures need to be measured accurately at tortoise level using a digital thermometer. The analogue type that sticks to a wall isn't accurate enough.

There are 4 important temperatures - warm side, cool side, directly under the basking lamp and overnight minimum. A Russian must be able to bask at 95-100F in order to digest food and be active. Overnight temperatures must not drop below 65F.

Poor hydration

Change
Some tortoises handle change better than others. A new or rearranged home, a new owner or too much handling can trigger fear that leads to a tort deciding the world wants to eat him.

A tortoise does best with all 4 feet on the ground in the enclosure where temperatures and humidity are good.

Don't let your Russian roam your home - for a start they're amazing escape artists - as it will be away from the heat, humidity and UVB it needs to be healthy. There's also a risk of it being stepped on, you only have to be distracted for a moment, and of it ingesting things that cause gut blockages such as dust bunnies and hair or brightly coloured non-edible items (they're not very clever)

Build trust by establishing a routine:
- Have the lights come on and go off using a timer for 12-14 hours
- Before your tort has warmed up properly, soak him for at least 20 minutes in warm water. Use a flat-bottomed, high sided bowl that he can't see over or through.
- While your tort soaks, tidy the enclosure and place food
- Replace your tort and walk away. Leave him alone to explore and be brave. Resist the temptation to stand watching

The time of year
Russians do have a strong urge to hibernate that seems to be triggered by shortening days. Having the lights on bright for 14 hours and being sure it's warm enough should help counter this.
I also spray his bedding and shell he seems to like this because every time I do this if he isn't napping he sticks his limbs out to get water on them
 

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