Tortoise Won't Eat!

Leah G.

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Hi, I'm new to the website and I have a young male Russian. The past few days he hasn't shown the slightest interest in his food. He just walks away from it and goes to burrow, or goes into his hide. I'm also worried about if I'm using the right substrate in his enclosure. Right now I'm using coconut shavings and rinds. I think it's irritating him.

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Adzlan

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I would remove that red light, and what are ur basking temperature
 

Adzlan

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Do you soak him often or not? See his nose is it blocked or not, if got some mucus block the nose tortoise wont eat
 

Leah G.

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Directly right under the lamp is about 103 degrees, but closer to the bottom of the cage I'm assuming it's a little cooler. And yes I soak him 2 times a week. I also let him self soak whenever he feels like he needs to. I think the substrate might be throwing up too much dust and it's irritating his eyes and nose.
 

cmacusa3

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Hi, I'm new to the website and I have a young male Russian. The past few days he hasn't shown the slightest interest in his food. He just walks away from it and goes to burrow, or goes into his hide. I'm also worried about if I'm using the right substrate in his enclosure. Right now I'm using coconut shavings and rinds. I think it's irritating him.


I would advise you to read the care sheets in this section. The one written by @Tom is really good. There are several things that need to be changed in the enclosure.
 

cmacusa3

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Okay thank you! What would you suggest me to change?


The red light, that water dish can be a flipping hazard, unfortunately the enclosure is way to small. Tell us what type of light you are using for basking also.

Understand we are just giving you the best advice on things that will help you and make things better for the tort, we've all been there and had to make changes also.
 

cmacusa3

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One thing you can do with the substrate is get it a little wet and hand pack it down, he will still dig but it will eliminate the dust.

Red bulbs should never be used. Torts have good color vision and those bulbs make things look funny to them, day or night. You should use a white light for basking and day time heat
 
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Leah G.

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Yeah no worries! I understand that you're giving my constructive criticism. And I'm working on building him a new and bigger enclosure so he has a lot more room to roam around. And thanks for the advice on the heat bulb, the woman at the pet store recommended it I also never keep his soaking dish all the way full, just in case he ever does flip.
 

cmacusa3

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Unfortunately pet stores are notorious for giving out bad info. Just read all the info in this section and you will get everything figured out.
 

Adzlan

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Also checked the temperature on cool side and basking side, as abram said best read forum from @Tom or any others that have different situation, just prepare
 

Gillian M

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Hi @Leah G. and a very warm welcome to the forum! :tort:

Kindly note that torts do not like change, therefore they take time to get used to it. Moreover, they tend to lose appetite during Winter. :( Could this be the case with your tort? Is it warm enough? :rolleyes:

Please read the "Beginners Mistakes" Thread and care sheet, and keep us updated. Hope to hear he's eating, soon. :D
 

Leah G.

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Thanks! And I'm pretty sure it's warm enough for him. I make sure to keep his basking spot at around 100 degrees directly under the lamp. Like I said, I'm in the process of building him another bigger and more roomy enclosure so the cool and basking sides are further apart, and also so he can wander around if he feels like it.
 

JoesMum

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Hi Leah

It's important that temperatures are measured at tortoise level on the floor

A temperature gun style thermometer (inexpensive from Amazon) is the best for accuracy of spot measurements.

It needs to be 95-100F directly under the basking lamp (which needs to hang vertically) at tortoise level.

These are the relevant links for Russians which will answer most of your questions. I'll add a post that explains more about lighting next

Beginner Mistakes
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

Russian Care
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/
 

JoesMum

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Here's a lighting summary:

Your tort needs:

1. A basking lamp
This must hang vertically, not at an angle. Basking is essential to raise your tortoise's core temperature so it can digest food.

2. UVB light
Read the instructions for the source to see how close to the substrate it must be. UVB is essential so your tort can process dietary calcium and have healthy bones and shell.

Both 1 and 2 are available from the sun for those able to live outside.

UVB does not pass through glass or perspex(plexiglass) - light must be direct to be effective not through a window. Mesh screening can also interfere with UVB.

3. A minimum overnight temperature (see the care sheet for your species) and complete darkness at night to sleep.


Notes

(a) A Mercury Vapor Bulb (MVB) provides combined UVB and Basking. Alternatively you can use 2 bulbs: a tube UVB and a reflector bulb for basking (a household reflector - not low energy or halogen - from a hardware store will do the job; it's the wattage that counts)

(b) Ignore any references to UVA you may read - it's misleading marketing speak.

(c) Compact coil UVB harms tortoise eyes and must not be used.

(d) Basking and UVB should be on a timer so the light(s) are on for 12 hours a day. Temperature under the basking is regulated by its height above the substrate.

(e) Overnight, depending on your home, you may need additional heat. You get this from a CHE (Ceramic Heat Emitter) which must be on a thermostat.

(f) Torts have outstanding colour vision and love red and purple food. Coloured heat lamps colour tank decor and torts don't always apply intelligence to what they eat, resulting them in eating tank decor. Coloured bulbs should not be used.


Measurements

There are 4 important temperatures that you must know for an indoor enclosure.
- Directly under the basking lamp
- Warm side
- Cool side
- Overnight Minimum

You will need digital thermometers for accuracy.

A temperature gun thermometer (inexpensive from Amazon) measures temperature accurately in specific places like directly under the basking lamp.

A min/max thermometer so you know the min/max temperatures in your home by day and night.

You should also get a good digital probe hygrometer to measure humidity.

Thermometers and hygrometer that stick to the side of the enclosure tend to be less accurate.
 

Leah G.

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Thanks for all the advice and links! I'm really in need of a new enclosure, and I'm trying my best to get one built. Once this is all done, I can adjust my lights better and also my temps. I'm really tying to get his new cage done!
 

Yvonne G

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Hi Leah:

Russian tortoises are hard wired to wander over great distances looking for food. The enclosure you have him in is way too small. This not only causes stress (being contained in a small enclosure) but doesn't allow for the exercise the tortoise needs.

The best habitat for a Russian tortoise is one that is outside, and large enough that he has plenty of room to wander. Then when the cold weather hits, you can box him up and allow him to hibernate.

Another reason he may not be eating is because wild caught tortoises are still tuned in to their home rhythm. They know it's time to start slowing down and stop eating in order to clean out their digestive tracts prior to hibernation. After a wild caught tortoise has been captive for a few winters, his body eventually gets tuned in to the new rhythm and he stays awake and eating longer.
 

Leah G.

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Okay thank you, like I told everyone else, I'm in the process of building him a much bigger enclosure to suit his wandering needs. And thanks for the advice about his habits!
 

Gillian M

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Thanks for all the advice and links! I'm really in need of a new enclosure, and I'm trying my best to get one built. Once this is all done, I can adjust my lights better and also my temps. I'm really tying to get his new cage done!
Hi! Has your tort eaten yet?

Look forward to seeing pics of the new enclosure.
 

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