Tortoise eyes

maggie3fan

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Crazy Train
You shouldn't use an under tank heat mat for any species of tortoise. Babies often get burned because some are not smart enuf to get off the mat when they get too hot. You might put it against the side. Those babies are delicate
BUT...I have a 'farrowing' pad for my bigger tortoises. It's on a rehostat and has been in place for 14 years and gone thru a number of tortoises, it works fine and my sleeping box is big enuf for the tort to get off the pad to cool off.
Sometimes if I'm gonna work in the tort shed Smokey likes to go with me. This is Mary in the sleeping box. See that orange color? That's the mat
100_6780.JPG
 

Yossarian

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Tortoise Club
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The little tort doesnt look bad to me, eyes might be a little puffy but dont freak out these kinds of things happen but its certainly not time to give up on this baby.
 

ZenHerper

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Well, I'm not really seeing anything specific from the photos you've posted.

If the appetite is good, and this wee one is able to move about and maintain Optimal digestive, metabolic, and immune temperatures...I'd say that's all good.

You have not posted photos of the enclosure. There may be (even minor) issues with your set up that are causing the things that are concerning you. Hatchlings are very sensitive to environment. They need the proper levels of light, radiation, heat, shade, cover, humidity, territory...in order to recover from the shock of moving home and then to thrive.
 

zackary2431

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Jan 7, 2021
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Los Angeles
Well, I'm not really seeing anything specific from the photos you've posted.

If the appetite is good, and this wee one is able to move about and maintain Optimal digestive, metabolic, and immune temperatures...I'd say that's all good.

You have not posted photos of the enclosure. There may be (even minor) issues with your set up that are causing the things that are concerning you. Hatchlings are very sensitive to environment. They need the proper levels of light, radiation, heat, shade, cover, humidity, territory...in order to recover from the shock of moving home and then to thrive.
Ok I will post it I promise , it’s just my brother has been proving photos due to my absence, currently out of town , but I’ll b back sometime this week ! Thank you so much !
 

zackary2431

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Jan 7, 2021
Messages
46
Location (City and/or State)
Los Angeles
Well, I'm not really seeing anything specific from the photos you've posted.

If the appetite is good, and this wee one is able to move about and maintain Optimal digestive, metabolic, and immune temperatures...I'd say that's all good.

You have not posted photos of the enclosure. There may be (even minor) issues with your set up that are causing the things that are concerning you. Hatchlings are very sensitive to environment. They need the proper levels of light, radiation, heat, shade, cover, humidity, territory...in order to recover from the shock of moving home and then to thrive.
CFF35F08-739C-4B78-9D91-269CC17BDC7F.jpeg
 

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zackary2431

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Jan 7, 2021
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46
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Well, I'm not really seeing anything specific from the photos you've posted.

If the appetite is good, and this wee one is able to move about and maintain Optimal digestive, metabolic, and immune temperatures...I'd say that's all good.

You have not posted photos of the enclosure. There may be (even minor) issues with your set up that are causing the things that are concerning you. Hatchlings are very sensitive to environment. They need the proper levels of light, radiation, heat, shade, cover, humidity, territory...in order to recover from the shock of moving home and then to thrive.

These are the best photos I got from my brother, but all I basically tried to go for a closed chamber , I taped the holes and left one open for ventilation purposes ! it holds humidity well , the substrate is coconut husk , bark and moss , ( only thing I had atm ) and hot side is about 100F cool side is about 78-80F and @ night I have a 80 watt bulb thing that doesn’t produce light, can’t remember ,
 

ZenHerper

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Feb 27, 2020
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926
Location (City and/or State)
New Jersey
100*F is rather high. 95*F is a more realistic basking "spot", and 85-90*F everywhere else. Overnight temps should never dip below 80*F. Red colored bulbs keep torts awake at night -- they can see the light; use only a CHE. Most people end up investing in thermostats to keep things more closely optimized (you still have to verify).


There is no grassy cover like would be around for hatchlings in the wild...add a few good clumps of plastic vine (or real leafy plants - pothos, boston fern) to mitigate the intense uvb radiation coming down. Greenery will also make that gorgeous shell pop!

Realistically, you only need 3-4 hours uvb exposure (check the bulb package for the recommended height - radiation travels and disperses as it gets farther away from the source). Babies experiencing too much harsh lighting and radiation often squeeze their eyes shut for protection. The thin skin of the corneas is very susceptible to over-drying and radiation burns.

Couple more tweeks and s/he should be getting back to usual! Try a plain artificial tears drop or gel if the squinting persists over the next week.
 

zackary2431

Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2021
Messages
46
Location (City and/or State)
Los Angeles
100*F is rather high. 95*F is a more realistic basking "spot", and 85-90*F everywhere else. Overnight temps should never dip below 80*F. Red colored bulbs keep torts awake at night -- they can see the light; use only a CHE. Most people end up investing in thermostats to keep things more closely optimized (you still have to verify).


There is no grassy cover like would be around for hatchlings in the wild...add a few good clumps of plastic vine (or real leafy plants - pothos, boston fern) to mitigate the intense uvb radiation coming down.

Realistically, you only need 3-4 hours uvb exposure (check the bulb package for the recommended height - radiation travels and disperses as it gets farther away from the source). Babies experiencing too much harsh lighting and radiation often squeeze their eyes shut for protection. The thin skin of the corneas is very susceptible to over-drying and radiation burns.

Couple more tweeks and s/he should be getting back to usual! Try a plain artificial tears drop or gel if the squinting persists over the next week.
Thank you so freakin much for your advice I’m using all of it ! Thank u
 
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