results from the "disastrous" vet visit

Status
Not open for further replies.

Mgridgaway

Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2011
Messages
842
Location (City and/or State)
Maryland
Yeah, I was about to mention... all tort plastrons are soft when they're born. It's from the yolk sac and it does take a while to harden up. Often more than one month. My then-hatchling redfoot's plastron took maybe 3-6 months to fully harden.

So, point being: Don't worry so much!

Also, for future thoughts, as soon as your vet said he was unfamiliar with handling hatchlings I would not have allowed him to perform any treatment. He should've told you all tortoise hatchling plastrons were soft; that's common knowledge.
 

yagyujubei

Active Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2010
Messages
2,407
Location (City and/or State)
Amish Country
I heard that soaking in baby food can soften their shells. Just kidding.
futureleopardtortoise said:
Phheeeww... Okay... but just to give myself even more peace of mind I am soaking him in baby food and vitamins for the next couple of days.
 

Watsonpartyof4

Active Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
683
RE: results from the "disastrous" vet visit

I would think poking and pressing on his shell would make it sore and tender, check it every other day! Poor thing!

We all go thru the nervous nellys with our new baby so just calm down and try not to worry! He will be fine, you sound like you are doing everything right. Except you are giving yourself an ulcer!
 

EKLC

Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2010
Messages
605
I would stop prodding him for the time being, you're only going to start playing tricks on yourself.

If he's active and eating that's a good sign.

If he's in the sun and getting calcium, there's nothing else you should be doing for his shell. So unless you have some crazy diet with way to much phosphorous and oxalic acid, you can rest at ease.
 

Redstrike

Well-Known Member
10 Year Member!
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
2,716
Location (City and/or State)
New York
EKLC said:
I would stop prodding him for the time being, you're only going to start playing tricks on yourself.

If he's active and eating that's a good sign.

If he's in the sun and getting calcium, there's nothing else you should be doing for his shell. So unless you have some crazy diet with way to much phosphorous and oxalic acid, you can rest at ease.

Great advice! Give your tort some space, sounds like it's carapace and plastron are springy, that's how hatchlings come.

Like Terry Hall said previously, get him/her outside and supplement the diet with calcium (sparingly - I use an old salt shaker to apply a very small amount) and/or high calcium foods and things should be fine!

Lastly, I don't see any problem declining vitamin shots to hatchling tortoises! I think you made a good call there, irrespective of the type of vitamin. Some sunshine and calcium rich foods will do your tort just fine!
 

dmmj

The member formerly known as captain awesome
10 Year Member!
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Messages
19,670
Location (City and/or State)
CA
This is from another thread where they OP said that her tortoise's shell was going softer, she was not concerned that it was soft, but that it is getting softer. Cactus pads is a great food for calcium.
 

CourtneyAndCarl

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2012
Messages
1,971
Location (City and/or State)
Middle of nowhere
Mgridgaway said:
Also, for future thoughts, as soon as your vet said he was unfamiliar with handling hatchlings I would not have allowed him to perform any treatment. He should've told you all tortoise hatchling plastrons were soft; that's common knowledge.

He did. Problem was that Carl's shell hasn't always been this soft, it softened a bit, which I noticed yesterday. Obviously, since Carl was being hyper and crazy (as crazy as a tortoise can be, of course) during his appointment (he bit me again, actually, apparently my fingernails look tasty), the vet probably thought I was crazy for thinking he had MBD or kidney failure or something similar.

I know he doesn't do baby tortoises much, there doesn't seem to be a lot of tortoise owners in general in my area, let alone vets to see them.

Does having a soft shell usually follow other symptoms like stopping eating and acting lethargic, or is it usually the first sign of a problem?
 

Nixxy

New Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2012
Messages
567
Location (City and/or State)
New Hampshire
I think he will be okay. :D

I think it will harden up, and that you are doing a fantastic job caring for Carl, Courtney. :)

I'm pretty sure you'd have other symptoms if it was an issue.
 

Mgridgaway

Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2011
Messages
842
Location (City and/or State)
Maryland
futureleopardtortoise said:
Mgridgaway said:
Also, for future thoughts, as soon as your vet said he was unfamiliar with handling hatchlings I would not have allowed him to perform any treatment. He should've told you all tortoise hatchling plastrons were soft; that's common knowledge.

He did. Problem was that Carl's shell hasn't always been this soft, it softened a bit, which I noticed yesterday. Obviously, since Carl was being hyper and crazy (as crazy as a tortoise can be, of course) during his appointment (he bit me again, actually, apparently my fingernails look tasty), the vet probably thought I was crazy for thinking he had MBD or kidney failure or something similar.

I know he doesn't do baby tortoises much, there doesn't seem to be a lot of tortoise owners in general in my area, let alone vets to see them.

Does having a soft shell usually follow other symptoms like stopping eating and acting lethargic, or is it usually the first sign of a problem?

I'm sorry, I misunderstood the situation!

Unfortunately, I can't really answer your question, because I honestly don't know.

But may I ask, are you sure the shell is getting softer? Or maybe are you just perceiving it that way? I know the first time I noticed Darwin's shell was pliable I freaked out. I had always thought it was hard and when it squished a little I thought he was sick until I was reassured and his shell is now nice and hard (which, like I said, took a decent while).

I've read over a number of your threads and you seem like an absolutely wreck of worry over Carl. The truth is that you're giving Carl great care. Lots of sunlight, great food, and supplements. Like dmmj said, some torts just won't thrive. But your tort is eating! and squirming! And seems fairly active. Furthermore, you've taken him a vet and they haven't seen any serious glaring problems. They've wormed him too.

In my eyes, there isn't a whole lot you can do at this point, especially with the terrific husbandry you've provided him. He shouldn't have MBD.

I suggest you try to take it easy for now. Let the tort be a tort, and don't stress him out too much (which is one of the worst things for a hatchling). If he stops eating for more than 3 or 4 days or becomes constantly lethargic... that's when I'd start to worry.
 

deadheadvet

Well-Known Member
10 Year Member!
Joined
Sep 5, 2011
Messages
813
Location (City and/or State)
Cary, NC
Be a good idea to know what dewormer the vet gave (ask!). Most are very safe and effective, but having a fecal analysis really should be done when you can get a sample. Oxyurids are normal for tortoises and actually are symbiotic and should not be treated, Other parasites need to be treated. So when the tortoises defecates, bring the sample in but it needs to be a fresh sample. If it's dried out, it's worthless. Not all vets are idiots so don't lump us into that category. I'm tired of many of you on this forum bashing vets who you think know nothing about tortoises. Do your homework and ask questions before you take your animals in. Some really are inexperienced. Go somewhere else. Like anything else, reptiles are expensive. If you're not prepared to deal with sick animals on occasion, don't start this hobby. I've learned the hard way myself.
 

CourtneyAndCarl

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2012
Messages
1,971
Location (City and/or State)
Middle of nowhere
deadheadvet said:
Be a good idea to know what dewormer the vet gave (ask!). Most are very safe and effective, but having a fecal analysis really should be done when you can get a sample. Oxyurids are normal for tortoises and actually are symbiotic and should not be treated, Other parasites need to be treated. So when the tortoises defecates, bring the sample in but it needs to be a fresh sample. If it's dried out, it's worthless. Not all vets are idiots so don't lump us into that category. I'm tired of many of you on this forum bashing vets who you think know nothing about tortoises. Do your homework and ask questions before you take your animals in. Some really are inexperienced. Go somewhere else. Like anything else, reptiles are expensive. If you're not prepared to deal with sick animals on occasion, don't start this hobby. I've learned the hard way myself.

I certainly wasn't calling the vet an idiot. He has seen my cockatiel with a weak immune system multiple times and he is a very capable avian vet, he's probably saved my bird's life a time or two. Tortoises aren't a big thing in Nebraska, though, so I definitely wasn't surprised that he rarely sees baby torts. He is one of three exotic vets in the entire state of Nebraska, so it's not like I have a lot of options, though. And if your last comment was directed at me, I am more than ready to take a sick animal to the vet for care and treatment.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top