Umbilical scar bleeding

[Dankneepowpow]

Hi everyone,

I recently received a red foot hatchling from a breeder who most likely kept the hatchling too dry. He’s about three weeks now and is eating greens and is decently active. Today after his soak I noticed his umbilical scab was actually bleeding! I don’t know if I should administer first aid or antibiotic ointment or if this is normal for a hatchling this young. I’ll attach a photo of his umbilical scab yesterday and today so you can see the difference. Thank you for your input!

 

[Tom]

That baby is only a few days old and should still be in a brooder box. It should not have been sold yet. The breeder is either unscrupulous or a moron.

Its a judgement call, but I would put that baby back into a brooder box set up until the remainder of the tissue reabsorbs of falls off, and the umbilical scar closes up. Babies need to be in a brooder box for 7-10 days while the yolk sac is absorbed and that scar closes up. Get a shoe box and use large grape leaves, broadleaf plantain, mulberry leaves or even flat leaves of romaine if necessary to line the bottom. I drill a total of four 1/4 inch holes around the top of the box for ventilation, put the box in a warm incubator, or bird brooder box, or use your enclosure if needed. Keep it around 86 degrees until that situation resolves itself.

And then call the breeder and ask him/her what they were thinking selling a baby that early when the yolk sac isn't even absorbed.

 

[Dankneepowpow]

Thank you Tom,

I will follow your instructions to the letter. I will definitely not be getting any more tortoises from this breeder! This is only the 2nd day I’ve had the little guy. I will do everything I can to keep him alive and well. Is there a care sheet you might recommend for a hatchling this young? Should I still be giving daily soaks? Thank you again for your help!

 

[Tom]

Thank you Tom,

I will follow your instructions to the letter. I will definitely not be getting any more tortoises from this breeder! This is only the 2nd day I’ve had the little guy. I will do everything I can to keep him alive and well. Is there a care sheet you might recommend for a hatchling this young? Should I still be giving daily soaks? Thank you again for your help!

Yes on the daily soaks. I don't keep RFs and I don't know of a good care sheet. @Toddrickfl1 or @ZEROPILOT might.

 

[Dankneepowpow]

Yes on the daily soaks. I don't keep RFs and I don't know of a good care sheet. @Toddrickfl1 or @ZEROPILOT might.

Thank you Tom, I appreciate you helping me. I knew this tort was young but this is big surprise. I was told he was three weeks and had absorbed his yolk sac. Back in the brooder box he will go! I will continue his daily soaks, keep the temperature in the mid 80s, and keep it as humid as I can. Thanks again Tom, you’re a legend!

 

[KarenSoCal]

Here are 2 care sheets we have in the redfoot subforum. Both were written by members here. I hope you will find something helpful for your adorable baby!

Redfoot Tortoise Care Sheet

NOTE: I do not keep redfoots, and I only have one tortoise in total. With this in mind, remember that I am in no way an expert, and this should not be used as cold hard proof of how to raise a redfoot. I used information from great keepers on this forum to put everything together. This care...

www.tortoiseforum.org

Redfoot Tortoise Caresheet

REDFOOT TORTOISE CARESHEET ALL Tortoises on the planet require that 4 parameters be "IN BALANCE". How this is accomplished ( or required ) is as varied as there are regions and keepers on the planet. Temperature - Humidity - Lighting - Diet Redfoot tortoises require the same parameters -...

www.tortoiseforum.org

 

[Dankneepowpow]

Here are 2 care sheets we have in the redfoot subforum. Both were written by members here. I hope you will find something helpful for your adorable baby!

Redfoot Tortoise Care Sheet

NOTE: I do not keep redfoots, and I only have one tortoise in total. With this in mind, remember that I am in no way an expert, and this should not be used as cold hard proof of how to raise a redfoot. I used information from great keepers on this forum to put everything together. This care...

www.tortoiseforum.org

Redfoot Tortoise Caresheet

REDFOOT TORTOISE CARESHEET ALL Tortoises on the planet require that 4 parameters be "IN BALANCE". How this is accomplished ( or required ) is as varied as there are regions and keepers on the planet. Temperature - Humidity - Lighting - Diet Redfoot tortoises require the same parameters -...

www.tortoiseforum.org

Thank you so much!! I appreciate all the help!!

 

[Toddrickfl1]

Welcome and congrats on your new baby. The breeder should not have sold this baby so soon. The main thing you want to worry about right now is keeping him humid. You want to aim for 80%+. It's easiest done with an enclosed enclosure. The first year or so is crucial for smooth growth. I keep my enclosures at 84-86F thru out the entire enclosure, day and night. No need for microclimates or a basking spot. Redfoots don't like bright light. Get a fluorescent tube UVB. Or If it's possible for you to get your tort out in natural sunlight just a few hours a week you don't even need a uvb bulb indoors. You could just use a regular incandescent bulb. For substrate I'd recommend either Cypress mulch or Orchid bark. For diet there is no real set schedule you'll have to follow. Just make sure your offering a wide variety of foods. Try not to feed the same thing every day and switch it up. Redfoots are easy when it comes to diet. They can eat so many things other torts can't. Some of the things I feed are Romaine, kale, mustard/turnip greens, dandelion greens and flowers, escarole, hibiscus leaves and flowers, collards, chard, arugula, bok choy, strawberries, blueberries, mango, watermelon, cantaloupe, papaya, bananas, squash, cucumber, peppers, mushrooms, carrots, Mazuri, etc. For protein I use Earthworms, chicken, shrimp, tuna , sardines, and some times low fat cat food. You'll want to feed protein about once a week. Also make sure your soak your tort daily for at least the first few months

 

[Dankneepowpow]

Welcome and congrats on your new baby. The breeder should not have sold this baby so soon. The main thing you want to worry about right now is keeping him humid. You want to aim for 80%+. It's easiest done with an enclosed enclosure. The first year or so is crucial for smooth growth. I keep my enclosures at 84-86F thru out the entire enclosure, day and night. No need for microclimates or a basking spot. Redfoots don't like bright light. Get a fluorescent tube UVB. Or If it's possible for you to get your tort out in natural sunlight just a few hours a week you don't even need a uvb bulb indoors. You could just use a regular incandescent bulb. For substrate I'd recommend either Cypress mulch or Orchid bark. For diet there is no real set schedule you'll have to follow. Just make sure your offering a wide variety of foods. Try not to feed the same thing every day and switch it up. Redfoots are easy when it comes to diet. They can eat so many things other torts can't. Some of the things I feed are Romaine, kale, mustard/turnip greens, dandelion greens and flowers, escarole, hibiscus leaves and flowers, collards, chard, arugula, bok choy, strawberries, blueberries, mango, watermelon, cantaloupe, papaya, bananas, squash, cucumber, peppers, mushrooms, carrots, Mazuri, etc. For protein I use Earthworms, chicken, shrimp, tuna , sardines, and some times low fat cat food. You'll want to feed protein about once a week. Also make sure your soak your tort daily for at least the first few months

Awesome thank you!

so far I’ve been keeping him in an enclosed enclosure to keep the humidity in the mid 80s. The temperature stays between 80-90 degrees. Luckily living in Hawai’i the climate is on my tortoise’s side. Do you have an opinion on if I should switch him back to a brooder box or if should keep him in his enclosure that’s he’s been in the last two days? In his enclosure he basically spends the whole day in his hide box which is extra humid with orchid moss.

I wish I saw the signs that this baby was too young but I was blinded by the cuteness. Now it’s my responsibility to give this guy the best life I can! Lesson learned: REPUTABLE BREEDERS ONLY!

Thanks for your help!

 

[ZEROPILOT]

My baby Redfoot experience is still quite limited.
My last two hatched and still live outdoors.
Keep him warm. 80-86°
No bright lights.
Keep him humid. 75% plus.
I've often kept my babies on paper towels for a few weeks with plenty of places to hide.

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Awesome thank you!

so far I’ve been keeping him in an enclosed enclosure to keep the humidity in the mid 80s. The temperature stays between 80-90 degrees. Luckily living in Hawai’i the climate is on my tortoise’s side. Do you have an opinion on if I should switch him back to a brooder box or if should keep him in his enclosure that’s he’s been in the last two days? In his enclosure he basically spends the whole day in his hide box which is extra humid with orchid moss.

I wish I saw the signs that this baby was too young but I was blinded by the cuteness. Now it’s my responsibility to give this guy the best life I can! Lesson learned: REPUTABLE BREEDERS ONLY!

Thanks for your help!

You've been offering a bit of real sunlight?
Your set up sounds good

 

[Dankneepowpow]

You've been offering a bit of real sunlight?
Your set up sounds good

Yeah his enclosure is set up outside in the shade. I have a plexiglass screen to keep humidity in the mid eighties and I’m using reptibark for his substrate. He’s got a spider plant, two ti plants, and a basil as his house mates. He has a nice humid hide where he likes to hang out. Originally I had a wire mesh screen but quickly learned that wasn’t keeping the humidity high enough. Thanks for your feedback!

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Yeah his enclosure is set up outside in the shade. I have a plexiglass screen to keep humidity in the mid eighties and I’m using reptibark for his substrate. He’s got a spider plant, two ti plants, and a basil as his house mates. He has a nice humid hide where he likes to hang out. Originally I had a wire mesh screen but quickly learned that wasn’t keeping the humidity high enough. Thanks for your feedback!View attachment 292996

Just keep an eye on the scar and do not pick at it.
It should scab over and heal. It should not be bleeding.

 

[Dankneepowpow]

Just keep an eye on the scar and do not pick at it.
It should scab over and heal. It should not be bleeding.

Definitely will do thank you. Yeah that picture I posted was yesterday after his bath, it may have softened up his scab and made it look worse possibly. I’m bathing him right now. Here’s a picture of his plasteron pre bath:

 

[Dankneepowpow]

Just keep an eye on the scar and do not pick at it.
It should scab over and heal. It should not be bleeding.

Do you have an opinion on if I should move him to a brooder box? I know a hatchling this young should have stayed in one ideally but because he’s already acclimated to his enclosure I’m worried it would stress him out too much to move him back into a brooder box. In his enclosure he basically eats for a little after his bath and goes straight to his humid hide box for the rest of the day.

 

[Gijoux]

Do you have an opinion on if I should move him to a brooder box? I know a hatchling this young should have stayed in one ideally but because he’s already acclimated to his enclosure I’m worried it would stress him out too much to move him back into a brooder box. In his enclosure he basically eats for a little after his bath and goes straight to his humid hide box for the rest of the day.

I would put him in a small plastic shoe box with the holes drilled, like Tom suggested. I would take some paper towels folded to line the bottom of the box. Dampening these paper towels before placing your little guy in the box. Place his food in the box. You can then place this box in your enclosure. I soak babies this age twice a day. He can be put back into his enclosure without his little box in about a week, once his scar has completely healed. Best of luck to you.

 

[Dankneepowpow]

I would put him in a small plastic shoe box with the holes drilled, like Tom suggested. I would take some paper towels folded to line the bottom of the box. Dampening these paper towels before placing your little guy in the box. Place his food in the box. You can then place this box in your enclosure. I soak babies this age twice a day. He can be put back into his enclosure without his little box in about a week, once his scar has completely healed. Best of luck to you.

Thank you! I will follow you and Tom’s advice. I have a little plastic shoebox set up with a lid that I will place inside his enclosure. He’s doing really well so far! He’s eating lots and is very active! It seems he likes his enclosure but I don’t want to risk him injuring his umbilical scab. Into the brooder box we go! Mahalo for your advice, I’m so thankful for the tortoise forum community right now!

 

[Dankneepowpow]

I just set the little guy up in a brooder box inside his enclosure. I got a few damp paper towels on the bottom to maintain humidity, put his food dish in there, some moss for him to hide in, and my temperature and humidity sensor. On top of the paper towels I put some ti leaves. I hope this is a good set up and his scab heals ASAP! I’ll attach a photo of his brood box, let me know what you think.

 

[Tom]

I just set the little guy up in a brooder box inside his enclosure. I got a few damp paper towels on the bottom to maintain humidity, put his food dish in there, some moss for him to hide in, and my temperature and humidity sensor. On top of the paper towels I put some ti leaves. I hope this is a good set up and his scab heals ASAP! I’ll attach a photo of his brood box, let me know what you think.

Are ti leaves edible? If not, I'd take them out. Likewise with the moss. They will eat that and its an impaction risk. You also don't want that mixing in or tangling with the remaining yolk sac tissue.

I can only use paper towels on the bottom for the very first day or two, and then they all start trying to eat them. I switch to large edible leaves, mulberry, grave vine, or broadleaf plantain on day two.

Also no need for cuttlebone at this point. You only want the leaves on the bottom and a few edible leaves in the brooder box. Nothing else. No bowls, no temp sensor, no moss.

This is day one for these hatching sulcatas:

 

[Dankneepowpow]

Are ti leaves edible? If not, I'd take them out. Likewise with the moss. They will eat that and its an impaction risk. You also don't want that mixing in or tangling with the remaining yolk sac tissue.

I can only use paper towels on the bottom for the very first day or two, and then they all start trying to eat them. I switch to large edible leaves, mulberry, grave vine, or broadleaf plantain on day two.

Also no need for cuttlebone at this point. You only want the leaves on the bottom and a few edible leaves in the brooder box. Nothing else. No bowls, no temp sensor, no moss.

This is day one for these hatching sulcatas:
View attachment 293010

Awesome thank you. I took everything out and replaced the ti leaves with Brussels sprout leaves, it was the best thing I could find in my garden. I read that ti leaves were okay in moderation but I didn’t want to risk anything. His scar looks a lot better already which I’m happy about. How does this look?