Sick Redfoot? Help!

[MildredsMommy]

I hope someone can help me. I attended a reptile show today and ended up buying a juvenile Redfoot. I noticed it was pawing at its eye quite a bit, so I said something to the breeder who looked at it and said it was probably a piece of substrate. Since getting him/her home, I put her in a large guinea pig cage with ecco earth, a water dish with ramp, and until I can order a Powersun, a 100 watt basking light. I soaked it while preparing the cage and did observe her/him drinking water. After placing back in the cage I went to check and it had burrowed close to the edge of the cage under the light and its eyes were shut. I took it out and it still didnt open its eyes. I took it outside and let it crawl around on the grass-it then opened its eyes and even started to eat blades of grass-still pawing at its eye every now and then. I put it back in the cage after about 20 mins and its got its eyes shut again. I also noticed it seems to stick its neck in and out a few times also. Does it sound like it is ill? I have never had a redfoot and I notice the shell is raised/bumpy also. I looked at the website of the vendor and was appalled at the bad reviews and also found out there are no refunds. what do i do? can it just be stressed? it was in a container with cherry heads, Sulcattas...and when I bought it they tried to put it in a plastic to go tub!

 

[Mgridgaway]

Would it be possible to post some pictures? Possible close ups of the eye? Remember, your tort is stressed so give it alone time.

The bumpy shell you are referring to is known as pyramiding. It is fairly common in redfoots. Though it is cosmetic, it is sometimes a sign of poor husbandry (when it's really bad. I've seen even well taken care of tortoises with a little pyramiding).

Be sure to soak your tortoise in warmish water every day to promote hydration. If the breeder got bad reviews, it may not have been well taken care of.

And if it makes you feel better, a plastic to go container is pretty standard. Mine arrived in one similar to a small to go cup of wonton soup, and that's from a reputable breeder.

PS: Not sure if you're new to tortoise keeping, but the redfoot guide on tortoisesupply.com is a good place for beginner knowledge. Tortoiselibrary.com is a bit more technical, but also recommended reading. Hope this helps!

 

[MildredsMommy]

Would it be possible to post some pictures? Possible close ups of the eye? Remember, your tort is stressed so give it alone time.

The bumpy shell you are referring to is known as pyramiding. It is fairly common in redfoots. Though it is cosmetic, it is often a sign of poor husbandry (when it's really bad. I've seen even well taken care of tortoises with a little pyramiding).

Be sure to soak your tortoise in warmish water every day to promote hydration. If the breeder got bad reviews, it may not have been well taken care of.

And if it makes you feel better, a plastic to go container is pretty standard. Mine arrived in one similar to a small to go cup of wonton soup, and that's from a reputable breeder.

Ps not sure you're new to tortoise keeping, but the redfoot guide on tortoisesupply.com is a good place for beginner knowledge. Tortoiselibrary.com is a bit more technical, but also recommended reading. Hope this helps!

Thank you very much-I have a Box turtle but have never owned a Redfoot-the poor thing looks worn out. Maybe I will back off and let it acclimate then check on it tomorrow when its had time to settle. What are signs I should be on the look out for if it IS getting sick? thank you so much!

 

[Mgridgaway]

It really depends on the illness. You may check out a symptoms guide here:

https://sites.google.com/site/tortoiselibrary/health-and-medical/symptoms-guide

If you're worried about your tort being sick, the best course of action is to take it to the vet. There is a list of herp qualified vets on this forum.

 

[Watsonpartyof4]

Redfoot Care Sheet
The information on this care sheet is intended for red foot tortoises (Chelonidis carbonaria). It should be mentioned that there is more then one right way to raise a tortoise; this is just my OPINION, and my way of doing it, based on my experience with my own tortoises.

General information
Redfoot tortoises are a medium-sized species. A typical tortoise will reach from 12-16 inches. However, tortoises over 14-15 inches are rare, and there are reported cases of tortoises over 18 inches. Different races of red foot tortoises will vary in size, however; a typical "Northern" redfoot tortoise will reach 12-14 inches, where-as the Brazilian (a.k.a Cherryhead, Dwarf red foot) may stop growing at 8 to 9 inches.
The redfoot tortoise is native to most of north-east South America (Brazil, Venezuela, Guyana, etc). However, they are not typically found in heavily forested areas. The typical habitat is along waterways, in forest clearings or along the edges of the forest, or in transitional areas between forest and savannah. However, which EXACT parts of South America they inhabit is not always clear. There is confusion over where specimens are collected, and due to the large area of South America, it is almost impossible to know for sure just where they live.

In captivity
Redfoot tortoises make wonderful captive pets, for the right person. There is some special care for them, however, that should be taken into consideration before diving into ownership of one of these tortoises. Consider first where you live. While there are many successful keepers out there in northern regions, where tortoises must spend half of the year indoors, it is very costly. A red foot tortoise must be maintained at an average temperature of 75 degrees, the humidity should be 70-80% (in dry regions, this can be accomplished with frequent watering, misters, and mud to keep the ground humidity higher). They also need UV; outdoors, this comes from the sun. Inside, this must be accomplished by expensive bulbs, which also need to be replaced often. Keeping a tortoise inside is expensive as it gets older; for an adult, you basically need to convert at least 50 sq. ft. (or a whole room) to an enclosure, in which the humidity and temperature is kept constant, which is lit with UVB bulbs, has the proper substrate, hides, plant life. This is all very easy to create ouside; inside, it is difficult.
In short, a tortoise is happiest, healthiest, and easiest outside; but, with dedication and time (and, unfortunately, a not-so-small amount of money), they can be kept almost anywhere in the world.
Redfoot tortoises are fun and intelligent pets. They learn who their keeper is, and they learn a schedule. They recognize colors, and learn to come to their name if trained.
Redfoot tortoises are also social. They can be kept in groups, or in pairs. They learn from each other, and there is nothing more mentally stimulating then a creature of the same species. However, the enclosure needs to be larger with each individual tortoise. Also, in some cases, there is aggression. When pairing tortoises, you must always be prepared to separate should a problem arise, although it is uncommon.

Indoor Housing
The enclosure is a very important aspect of tortoise keeping. This is where most of the mental exercise for a tortoise will come from, which is important.
Though it is obviously better to house a tortoise outside, it can be accomplished inside. Also, tortoises under 5" are usually housed inside, to protect from predators and unstable conditions outdoors.
Many containers can be used as an enclosure. Many rubbermaid plastic containers are suitable, and some use christmas tree storage containers. Some also build "tortoise tables", which are basically a book-case turned on its back, accommodated to a tortoise. The size depends completely on the size of the tortoise. For example, a hatchling tortoise, for the first year of its life, can live comfortably in a 3x2 enclosure. A large enough amount of room is important, to accommodate large water bowls, or wading pools, plants, and hides. For any tortoise under 5", a rough guideline would be around 5x3.

There are some negative myths surrounding the use of glass tanks. It seems, at one time, a keeper had a tortoise that paced at the glass. They drew the conclusion that tortoises will endlessly try to pace the glass...While, in some cases this can happen, and in this case, an opaque enclosure should be used, tortoises are commonly completely fine with glass. The first day, they may pace, but they soon recognize the border of the enclosure. If the enclosure is in a room with some activity on the outside, it may be beneficial for the tortoise to have the ability to see out. It may be entertaining to them, in some way, to see some activity. In short, glass tanks CAN be used. It is just difficult to find one of a large enough size, and they are usually much more expensive then a regular plastic container.
A large variety of containers can be used, as long as there is enough room. You will want the side to be around 12-24" high, to accommodate heat lamps. Also, it should always be covered, to maintain the climate (humidity and temperature) on the inside. When left uncovered, it is hard to maintain the proper climate. Whatever container is used, just follow these three criteria: a large footprint (the bottom of the enclosure), sufficient height, and the ability to cover it.

Whatever container is used, a red foot tortoise needs to be kept humid and warm. The ambient temperature over the whole enclosure should be 78-82 degrees, with a basking spot of 90-95 degrees. It is important to have a basking spot, to allow the tortoise to regulate their body temperature better, and it also aids in digestion. When kept inside, the humidity should be kept 80-90% through-out the whole enclosure. The humidity can also be maintained by using a humidifier of some sort, sold at most pharmacies. It is easy enough to run a tube out of the humidifier, into the enclosure. The temperature and humidity should be monitored with gauges. Electronic works much better, and lasts longer. Non-electronic ones tend not to last long, and must be replaced often.

The substrate is also important. The best substrate is cypress mulch or spaghum moss. Some keepers also use a product called "Coco-coir"; when I tried it, however, I found the tortoises getting it stuck to them when it was wet, and dragging it into water bowls. The substrate is important, because it must hold humidity. I have found that, for hatchlings under 6 months of age, spaghum moss is by far the best. Its fluffy and soft, and if a loose pile of it is left in the corner, it will be very appreciated, as young tortoises like to burrow.
After 6 months of age, cypress mulch seems to hold humidity the best, and is my choice. The substrate should be kept moist and sprayed with water from a spray bottle several times a day; this aids in keeping up the humidity greatly.

A water bowl also must be provided, the shape of which must have sloping sides to allow the tortoise in and out easily, and be shallow. The depth is according to the size of the tortoise, from 1/2" deep to an 1 1/2", to even deeper for adults. Any water bowl used should also be of a size large enough to allow the tortoise to submerge up to the bottom of their neck, or deep enough to cover the plastron (bottom of the shell), as red foot tortoises like to wade in the water. This is a favored activity, and aids in keeping the tortoise hydrated.

Another crucial aspect is lighting. Some sort of UV/UVB supplying bulb MUST be provided. This is needed by the tortoise to manufacture vitamin d3, which allows the tortoise to absorb calcium. Without a UV bulb, the tortoise will die with time. Tube bulbs work fine, as do MVB bulbs. However, there are certain bulbs on the market called "coil" bulbs. These bulbs have been linked to eye damage in tortoises, and should be avoided.
Heat bulbs , or CHE's (Ceramic Heat Emitters) must also be used, to maintain the temperature inside the tank. It should be positioned over an area high enough to keep the temperature at ground level at 90-95 degrees, and in an area the tortoise can bask easily.

Now to the fun part, decorating! The decoration used must be something the tortoise can not swallow and non-toxic. The best decorations are small logs (some hollowed-out ones can be purchased from stores, and used to hide in), plants (a list of safe plants will be linked at the bottom of this care sheet) and possibly stones. Plants are arguably the best, and should always be edible, as the tortoises may decide to eat them. They help with providing a sense of security and interest. Small logs are nice to break up the line of sight (it makes the enclosure feel larger if the tortoise can't see all the way across, and more interesting), if the enclosure is large enough to accommodate them.
Also, hides are important. Use your imagination here, as many things can be used, in all sorts of manners. An interesting way, to save space, is to make the substrate deep enough to bury clay pots under the substrate, sloping downwards with the top open. At least one hide should be in any enclosure.

This is my opinion, based on my experience. I recommend you do the research and make your own decision.

Many have forgotten this truth, but you must not forget it. You remain responsible...forever...for what you have tamed

 

[MildredsMommy]

my computer is acting weird so I cant post pics-after soaking her she seemed to perk up -when I place her in the cage she goes directly to the warm side and seems to want to nap. I do notice she is making a clicking sound in her throat?![/i]

 

[Watsonpartyof4]

(continuation)
Outdoor housing
Tortoises should usually be moved outside, when possible, at a size over 5-6". Even at this size, predator protection is VERY important. Until at least 8 inches in size, the enclosure should be covered with a locking wire lid, as hawks and birds prey on small tortoises. Even as adults, raccoons are always a danger. When kept outside, safety is the top priority. Avoid areas with fire ants, as these can be extremely dangerous and sometimes lethal.
Outdoor housing does not differ greatly from indoor housing. However, it should be as large as possible (at least 100 sq. ft. for an adult), but not so large that a small tortoise can't find its way around. This may seem ridiculous (after-all, think of a tortoise in the wild), but tortoises aren't in the wild. They are in a captive, altered world.
The temperature is just as important outside, and should always be between 70-90. When it drops below 65 at night, any tortoises under 6" should either be brought inside or locked in heated hides for the night. Larger tortoises tolerate down to 60, but under that, they should also be in heated boxes or inside. The humidity should also be kept high; this is accomplished by the proper substrate, watering frequently, misters or sprinklers set on timers, and muddy areas. The ground humidity will stay higher then the air, if the ground is kept moist. "Humid hides" can also be used. For example, a hide filled with some sort of moss, kept moist. This holds in humidity, and gives the tortoise a humid retreat. However, the ground humidity should still be kept as high as possible.
To much plain dirt or sand should be avoided, as it does not accommodate humidity well. If the terrain is just plain grass/weeds, that is fine, just make sure none of the weeds are toxic. Weeds like dandelion, plantain, and several others (again, lists will be posted at the end), are actually edible and very good food sources.
If not using grass, cypress mulch works great, and is probably the best outdoor substrate if one must be used, as it holds humidity well.
There should be an equal amount of sunny and shady areas. In areas of extreme heat, (over 95 degrees) it is important to have very deep shade and muddy areas to cool off. Shade is accomplished by hanging shade cloth and thick foliage.
Any outdoor enclosure should, like an indoor one, be decorated with logs and plants. You have more room to be creative outdoors, so use the space! Also, wading pools and "mud wallows" are greatly appreciated. If an area of the enclosure is just left plain dirt, it can be flooded every day. Redfoot tortoises will wallow in mud for hours if given the chance, and drink from it as well. It is, sometimes, one of their favorite activities.
A good thing to do is purchase edible seed mixes and spread them in the enclosure. These can be purchased from several sources (one will be posted at the end). Weeds, spring mixes, lettuce seeds, are all good choices. Hibiscus are probably one of the best plants for red foot tortoises, as they stay small and manageable, and the leaves and flowers are very good food. However, no plants should ever be treated with any kinds of fertilizers or sprays, as it is very toxic to tortoises.
In overview, the goal is to provide a safe, stimulating environment. Provide muddy areas, wading pools, lots of plants, shade, sunny areas to bask, logs, and hides, and your tortoise will be happy and thrive.

Diet
Diet is one of the most crucial aspects in all of tortoise keeping.
Most tortoises should usually be fed as much as they want. Supply enough food to the point where they can eat their fill, then walk away. However, certain tortoises are prone to obesity. In these cases, food may have to be limited; however, this is rare.
Most of the time, you must use grocery store bought foods. If the tortoise is in outdoor pens, it is very good to plant it with edible weeds such as dandelion, plantain, chicory, etc. However, supplemental food still must be provided in the form of store bought foods.
Redfoots need fruit, greens and vegetables. I use a ratio of 60/30/10. That is, 60% greens, 30% fruits, 10% vegetables. Here is a list of foods.
Greens
Collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, radicchio, endive, escarole, watercress, and arugula are all good choices that should be used regularly. Other foods that can be fed are kale, spring salad mix, spinach, red cabbage and lettuces (NO iceberg lettuce). These are what I call "in-the-fridge" foods. Kale, spinach and red cabbage have some substances (such as goitrogens, a substance that can inhibit iodine absorption) that are harmful in large quantities, and thus should not be used more then once a week. However, they are still beneficial, and can be added for variety. Lettuce can also be used once a week, but it is rather lacking in nutrition, and thus should not be a large part of the diet. I choose not to offer lettuce at all, as tortoises tend to get addicted to it; they will hold out for lettuce, and refuse other foods in some cases.
Fruits
Mango, fig, apple, pear, pineapple, blueberry, blackberry, raspberry, strawberry, melon (all kinds), kiwi, papaya, passion fruit, cherry, grapes, peach, plum.
Vegetables
Squashes (all kinds, yellow, green, acorn, butternut, spaghetti), pumpkin, carrots, sweet potato.

Other foods I will mention here (as I do not know what category they fall into) are bell peppers (not spicy peppers), mushrooms (portabella, shiitake and oyster are the best choices) and opuntia cactus pads. These are all very nutritious, and beneficial to add to any diet.
Whatever foods are used, VARIETY is key. Use as large of an amount of different foods as possible.
Now, some keepers have trouble offering variety with just one tortoise. They buy a few different foods, and find they can't use them all before they go bad. However, this is not how variety needs to be provided. Tortoises have a slow metabolism. They don't need all of these foods at one sitting. For those that have a problem with this because of not being able to use it, the best thing to do is to pick 1 green, 2 fruits and 1 vegetables from the list. Use it all week, and at the end, if it is not used up, it will have gone bad and need thrown out. Next week, pick a different green, different 2 fruits, and different vegetable. This is the best way to provide variety, just switch it up through the list for several weeks. This also cuts down on food waste.

Some sort of animal protein must be used as well. Once a week, protein can be offered in the form of cooked chicken or turkey (any form but fried or breaded), and insects such as worms, pill bugs, or pinky mice (kill them off first).

Commercial foods are worth mention. There are many horror stories out there surrounding the usage of commercial products. MOST of them are completely insufficient, and should not be used. However, there are exceptions to this. Zoomed makes some products that are acceptable; however, they are expensive.
The BEST, most widely used, and the one which seems to had the most success is a product called Mazuri Tortoise chow. While the ingredients list may look bad, the results from this product are astounding. Tortoises on it have a very good growth rate (not to quick, though), and seem to do very well. There are some veteran keepers out there feeding Mazuri in full, and have wonderful results.
However, I do not believe in using any one thing 100%, though some do. The 60/30/10 ratio I use is the ratio of different foods in the fresh category; however, over all, I feed my tortoises around 30% Mazuri, so they get a 70/30 fresh to Mazuri ratio. Almost all tortoises love it, and devour it. Some have suggested using 50% fresh foods to 50% Mazuri. The theory here is that one of them hits the weak spots the other misses. It works very well. It is also easier, which is a benefit to some keepers.
Mazuri tortoise chow needs to be served moistened, as they are very hard pellets. I put the pellets in a bowl and top it off with water, and let it all absorb. This is another way to provide hydration, which is very important.
Regardless of the situation, I think every diet should have some Mazuri tortoise chow in it.

Hydration is a critical aspect that must be matched with diet. If a tortoise becomes dehydrated, there can be serious issues, such as stones. This is solved by soaking. Soaking is done by putting the tortoise in a pan of water that comes up to about the bottom of their chin, or a little under, in warm water (not hot) for 15-20 minutes. Tortoises under 2 years of age should be soaked every day. Tortoises 2-3 years old can be soaked every other day, 3-4 years old every 2-3 days, and after that once a week is sufficient. When adults, if kept with plenty of places to drink, it is not necessary to soak, though it is still beneficial to do if you have the time.

If this diet is followed, supplementation is unnecessary. Certain things, such as ground herbal or weed mix supplements can be used, but others should not. Calcium supplementation is completely unneeded, and sometimes dangerous, as it leads to stones and possibly calcification of the internal organs. If on the diet listed here, calcium supplementation should not be used; really, any supplementation is unnecessary, but some mineral supplements can be used every once in a while.

In ending, owning a red foot tortoise is fun and interesting. They surprise you ever day with their antics. But with the ownership comes responsibility; do not take on the adventure without being fully sure you are equipped to care for one

Safe and dangerous plant list: http://www.thetortoisetable.org.uk/site/plants_19.asp
Edible seed mixes: http://www.carolinapetsupply.com/catalog/

This is from a very good friend, he has years of exsperience

 

[MildredsMommy]

(continuation)
Outdoor housing
Tortoises should usually be moved outside, when possible, at a size over 5-6". Even at this size, predator protection is VERY important. Until at least 8 inches in size, the enclosure should be covered with a locking wire lid, as hawks and birds prey on small tortoises. Even as adults, raccoons are always a danger. When kept outside, safety is the top priority. Avoid areas with fire ants, as these can be extremely dangerous and sometimes lethal.
Outdoor housing does not differ greatly from indoor housing. However, it should be as large as possible (at least 100 sq. ft. for an adult), but not so large that a small tortoise can't find its way around. This may seem ridiculous (after-all, think of a tortoise in the wild), but tortoises aren't in the wild. They are in a captive, altered world.
The temperature is just as important outside, and should always be between 70-90. When it drops below 65 at night, any tortoises under 6" should either be brought inside or locked in heated hides for the night. Larger tortoises tolerate down to 60, but under that, they should also be in heated boxes or inside. The humidity should also be kept high; this is accomplished by the proper substrate, watering frequently, misters or sprinklers set on timers, and muddy areas. The ground humidity will stay higher then the air, if the ground is kept moist. "Humid hides" can also be used. For example, a hide filled with some sort of moss, kept moist. This holds in humidity, and gives the tortoise a humid retreat. However, the ground humidity should still be kept as high as possible.
To much plain dirt or sand should be avoided, as it does not accommodate humidity well. If the terrain is just plain grass/weeds, that is fine, just make sure none of the weeds are toxic. Weeds like dandelion, plantain, and several others (again, lists will be posted at the end), are actually edible and very good food sources.
If not using grass, cypress mulch works great, and is probably the best outdoor substrate if one must be used, as it holds humidity well.
There should be an equal amount of sunny and shady areas. In areas of extreme heat, (over 95 degrees) it is important to have very deep shade and muddy areas to cool off. Shade is accomplished by hanging shade cloth and thick foliage.
Any outdoor enclosure should, like an indoor one, be decorated with logs and plants. You have more room to be creative outdoors, so use the space! Also, wading pools and "mud wallows" are greatly appreciated. If an area of the enclosure is just left plain dirt, it can be flooded every day. Redfoot tortoises will wallow in mud for hours if given the chance, and drink from it as well. It is, sometimes, one of their favorite activities.
A good thing to do is purchase edible seed mixes and spread them in the enclosure. These can be purchased from several sources (one will be posted at the end). Weeds, spring mixes, lettuce seeds, are all good choices. Hibiscus are probably one of the best plants for red foot tortoises, as they stay small and manageable, and the leaves and flowers are very good food. However, no plants should ever be treated with any kinds of fertilizers or sprays, as it is very toxic to tortoises.
In overview, the goal is to provide a safe, stimulating environment. Provide muddy areas, wading pools, lots of plants, shade, sunny areas to bask, logs, and hides, and your tortoise will be happy and thrive.

Diet
Diet is one of the most crucial aspects in all of tortoise keeping.
Most tortoises should usually be fed as much as they want. Supply enough food to the point where they can eat their fill, then walk away. However, certain tortoises are prone to obesity. In these cases, food may have to be limited; however, this is rare.
Most of the time, you must use grocery store bought foods. If the tortoise is in outdoor pens, it is very good to plant it with edible weeds such as dandelion, plantain, chicory, etc. However, supplemental food still must be provided in the form of store bought foods.
Redfoots need fruit, greens and vegetables. I use a ratio of 60/30/10. That is, 60% greens, 30% fruits, 10% vegetables. Here is a list of foods.
Greens
Collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, radicchio, endive, escarole, watercress, and arugula are all good choices that should be used regularly. Other foods that can be fed are kale, spring salad mix, spinach, red cabbage and lettuces (NO iceberg lettuce). These are what I call "in-the-fridge" foods. Kale, spinach and red cabbage have some substances (such as goitrogens, a substance that can inhibit iodine absorption) that are harmful in large quantities, and thus should not be used more then once a week. However, they are still beneficial, and can be added for variety. Lettuce can also be used once a week, but it is rather lacking in nutrition, and thus should not be a large part of the diet. I choose not to offer lettuce at all, as tortoises tend to get addicted to it; they will hold out for lettuce, and refuse other foods in some cases.
Fruits
Mango, fig, apple, pear, pineapple, blueberry, blackberry, raspberry, strawberry, melon (all kinds), kiwi, papaya, passion fruit, cherry, grapes, peach, plum.
Vegetables
Squashes (all kinds, yellow, green, acorn, butternut, spaghetti), pumpkin, carrots, sweet potato.

Other foods I will mention here (as I do not know what category they fall into) are bell peppers (not spicy peppers), mushrooms (portabella, shiitake and oyster are the best choices) and opuntia cactus pads. These are all very nutritious, and beneficial to add to any diet.
Whatever foods are used, VARIETY is key. Use as large of an amount of different foods as possible.
Now, some keepers have trouble offering variety with just one tortoise. They buy a few different foods, and find they can't use them all before they go bad. However, this is not how variety needs to be provided. Tortoises have a slow metabolism. They don't need all of these foods at one sitting. For those that have a problem with this because of not being able to use it, the best thing to do is to pick 1 green, 2 fruits and 1 vegetables from the list. Use it all week, and at the end, if it is not used up, it will have gone bad and need thrown out. Next week, pick a different green, different 2 fruits, and different vegetable. This is the best way to provide variety, just switch it up through the list for several weeks. This also cuts down on food waste.

Some sort of animal protein must be used as well. Once a week, protein can be offered in the form of cooked chicken or turkey (any form but fried or breaded), and insects such as worms, pill bugs, or pinky mice (kill them off first).

Commercial foods are worth mention. There are many horror stories out there surrounding the usage of commercial products. MOST of them are completely insufficient, and should not be used. However, there are exceptions to this. Zoomed makes some products that are acceptable; however, they are expensive.
The BEST, most widely used, and the one which seems to had the most success is a product called Mazuri Tortoise chow. While the ingredients list may look bad, the results from this product are astounding. Tortoises on it have a very good growth rate (not to quick, though), and seem to do very well. There are some veteran keepers out there feeding Mazuri in full, and have wonderful results.
However, I do not believe in using any one thing 100%, though some do. The 60/30/10 ratio I use is the ratio of different foods in the fresh category; however, over all, I feed my tortoises around 30% Mazuri, so they get a 70/30 fresh to Mazuri ratio. Almost all tortoises love it, and devour it. Some have suggested using 50% fresh foods to 50% Mazuri. The theory here is that one of them hits the weak spots the other misses. It works very well. It is also easier, which is a benefit to some keepers.
Mazuri tortoise chow needs to be served moistened, as they are very hard pellets. I put the pellets in a bowl and top it off with water, and let it all absorb. This is another way to provide hydration, which is very important.
Regardless of the situation, I think every diet should have some Mazuri tortoise chow in it.

Hydration is a critical aspect that must be matched with diet. If a tortoise becomes dehydrated, there can be serious issues, such as stones. This is solved by soaking. Soaking is done by putting the tortoise in a pan of water that comes up to about the bottom of their chin, or a little under, in warm water (not hot) for 15-20 minutes. Tortoises under 2 years of age should be soaked every day. Tortoises 2-3 years old can be soaked every other day, 3-4 years old every 2-3 days, and after that once a week is sufficient. When adults, if kept with plenty of places to drink, it is not necessary to soak, though it is still beneficial to do if you have the time.

If this diet is followed, supplementation is unnecessary. Certain things, such as ground herbal or weed mix supplements can be used, but others should not. Calcium supplementation is completely unneeded, and sometimes dangerous, as it leads to stones and possibly calcification of the internal organs. If on the diet listed here, calcium supplementation should not be used; really, any supplementation is unnecessary, but some mineral supplements can be used every once in a while.

In ending, owning a red foot tortoise is fun and interesting. They surprise you ever day with their antics. But with the ownership comes responsibility; do not take on the adventure without being fully sure you are equipped to care for one

Safe and dangerous plant list: http://www.thetortoisetable.org.uk/site/plants_19.asp
Edible seed mixes: http://www.carolinapetsupply.com/catalog/

This is from a very good friend, he has years of exsperience

Thank you so much for all that info!Very helpful- I really appreciate you taking the time-I want my new baby to be happy and healthy-which he obviously wasn't where he came from

 

[Michael in MO]

I hope someone can help me. I attended a reptile show today and ended up buying a juvenile Redfoot. I noticed it was pawing at its eye quite a bit, so I said something to the breeder who looked at it and said it was probably a piece of substrate. Since getting him/her home, I put her in a large guinea pig cage with ecco earth, a water dish with ramp, and until I can order a Powersun, a 100 watt basking light. I soaked it while preparing the cage and did observe her/him drinking water. After placing back in the cage I went to check and it had burrowed close to the edge of the cage under the light and its eyes were shut. I took it out and it still didnt open its eyes. I took it outside and let it crawl around on the grass-it then opened its eyes and even started to eat blades of grass-still pawing at its eye every now and then. I put it back in the cage after about 20 mins and its got its eyes shut again. I also noticed it seems to stick its neck in and out a few times also. Does it sound like it is ill? I have never had a redfoot and I notice the shell is raised/bumpy also. I looked at the website of the vendor and was appalled at the bad reviews and also found out there are no refunds. what do i do? can it just be stressed? it was in a container with cherry heads, Sulcattas...and when I bought it they tried to put it in a plastic to go tub!

Do you have your box turtle in the same cage with the redfoot? That will quadruple the stress your redfoot is experiencing from the move to the expo and the move to your house. Your box turtle will constantly either harass the tort b/c it's in it's "territory", will walk over it b/c it's in "the pace zone" in the perimiter or will try to figure out what it is out of curiosity. Instantly hiding sounds like a "go to my happy place" reaction to all of the stress.

 

[starpython]

Sounds like you rescued this little red foot from a bad situation. Take the advice you see here and follow the care info provided and your new little addition to the family will be fine.

I'm sure your tort is stressed. It needs a good place to chill out for a while as it is adjusting to a new environment.
The eye thing could be several different things. Monitor it carefully. I know that when I first got my red foot 3 years ago he was alway scratching his eyes. I figured it was because of the type of lighting and substrate the breeder was using wasn't what was best for him. After trying a few things I found what worked for best for him. You may go through the same thing. Let's hope it something that simple and nothing serious.

Best of luck.