Redfoot lighting question

tyguy35

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I am trying to create myself a nest box. I am making it where all the females usually sleep I have put a CHE in one corner that I can get temps 85-90 degrees. I am in debate about putting my MVB in the corner opposite about 3 ft away. or I can put a red 150w heat lamp and temps get to 94 on the spot.

What I have now is the CHE in the corner on 24/7 which they tend to sleep under aswell ( is that to hot to leave on all night with them sleeping under?). The red lamp is in the centre making an 85 degree hot spot and the MVB not really doing anything other then giving off uvb uva.

I live in a basement so the temps go down to around 66 at night so I am worried to turn off the CHE and they get to cold but at the same time that is there basking area and they sleep under it. A little help would be good cause I am so stuck on what to do. They are all adults ten years old or more. \

Should I add the MVB to the other corner which leaves the other end of the enclosure darker? Or leave it how it is they can handle the heat and will move if they dont like it. I will have to get a photo.

Or

should I just turn off all the heat at night they can handle 66-70
 

tyguy35

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Oh shoot I just realized I put this in the breeding section
 

naturalman91

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from everything i've read redfoots seem not to like bright lights and shy away from bright lights but that doesn't mean all tortoise are the same so i'd be concerned about the MVB is there anyway you could use a fluorescent strip uvb?
 

tyguy35

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I will just keep the mvb in the far end where they rarely are. I'm just concerned with the amount of time they spend under the 90 degree area only the two females. Is it ok to drop to 66-70 at night. Or should I leave the Che on which at night is around 83-85
 

Telid

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You could attach a dimmer switch to the CHE if you're worried about it going down too far - have a day and night setting.
 

tyguy35

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I didn't even know you could do that. What would they be called is it a pet store item?
 

Telid

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Nope - just go to your local hardware store and get a dimmer switch. All you are doing is limiting the amount of power going through the CHE, which means it doesn't heat up as much. It does stress the bulbs a little (depending upon who you ask), but otherwise will work just fine. It should cost you $10 at the hardware store - just hook it up, test a couple levels to see what temperature it makes your enclosure - mark off what you like, and you're in business. I just do a day and night setting, but you could go further and do a full morning, noon, evening, night thing if you want to get fancy. Remember: it is a dimmer switch, so you will have to manually change the settings. You can get programmable ones, but they get expensive quickly and are generally not worth the hassle.
 

kathyth

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image.jpg

Here is a dimmer that I plug a CHE into. Got it at a family type hardware store by me in Calif.
 

tyguy35

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I'll have to find one with a timer that dins it down when it's bed time. I work odd hours and sometimes am not home at night or all day so manually may not work for me.
 

Redfoot NERD

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If they like a particular temp [ under the CHE ].... then that's where they need to be! No need to second guess or re-invent the wheel.

The dimmer would be good to establish temps in mid - upper 80's. Hotter isn't needed. The temps in N. South America don't vary much year-round.

They are not baskers - so they don't need alot of light or higher temps!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It sounds like a very small enclosure... 3 ft. away is the opposite corner?

If you don't have a "lid" on this.. it would make it so much easier to retain the temps and ESPECIALLY the humidity.. when you do!

FYI [ no other reason ] - The above info is based on experience since 1998.. eventually [ based on caresheet created ] creating F2 ( 2nd generation ) hatchlings.

Especially... why interupt their favorite spot by putting a nest-box instead? - Put the nesting space opposite where they like best!

Talk to us..........
 

Madkins007

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I dislike MVBs for red-footeds because it is so hard to separate light from heat from UVB for control. Using a long USB bulb, CHEs and additional lighting if needed allows you a lot more control and tuning. Most red-footeds don't seem to like very warm temps, and seem to prefer mid-70 to 80ish, but this will vary by a lot of other things like how wet the substrate is, etc.

For an adult tortoise, 3' is pretty small. 8'x4' is closer to the European guidelines, and a cover can really help with humidity.

A couple other quick points-
- The average daily temp in Venezuela varies from about 60 to 75F over 24 hours (http://www.climate-charts.com/Locations/v/VN80438.php) so a nighttime drop is OK, within reason and again, depending on your situation. Climate for red-footed tortoises varies a lot more than it does for the more forest-bound yellow-footeds.
- Most keepers and all field researchers have documented basking red-footed tortoises. However, they do spend 50-70% of their day under some sort of shade or cover.
 

Redfoot NERD

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Once again we need to define "baskers"! Water turtles bask to thermo-regulate and absorb the UVB needed [ that they don't get from their herbivorous diet ] - which could take several several minutes. ( the obvious exception would be the Malaclemys - Diamondback terrapins )

Redfoot tortoises.. being black don't [ what I define as basking ] bask for long to thermo-regulate because of their black carapace.. and the required UVB comes from their [ could almost be considered carnivorous ] diet.. so the short time I've ever seen mine in the direct sun was only to stop and rest or graze. I wonder if these researchers are following these redfoot tortoises so they can document them "basking".. over a days' period of time? I am able to observe mine.. groups from North of the Amazon river.. and South [ Brazil ] - I doubt they are out from under cover an hour a day.. especially the upcoming summer months ahead.

That chart above is for almost 1500 foot elevation.. so it is going to be cooler!!!

Where most redfoot tortoises live - http://www.findlocalweather.com/weather_maps/temperature_south_america.html
Check the temps and humidity at the site in the link!

Keep in mind they are going into their "wet" season.. [ also known as winter ].. so temps are lower and humidity is higher.
 

Redfoot NERD

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PLUS .. a quick preview from that article shows "most" if not all studies are of UK / Mediterranean specie - granted the principle is the same.

Actually you may need to just keep them out of the sun.. and keep them warm.

Here's the site I was looking for and have always relied on - again check temps and humidity, etc. - http://www.wunderground.com/global/SA_ST_Index.html
 

JoesMum

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PLUS .. a quick preview from that article shows "most" if not all studies are of UK / Mediterranean specie - granted the principle is the same.

Actually you may need to just keep them out of the sun.. and keep them warm.

Here's the site I was looking for and have always relied on - again check temps and humidity, etc. - http://www.wunderground.com/global/SA_ST_Index.html
UK specie? Huh? There are none. Mediterranean maybe.
 

N2TORTS

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I didn't think there was a UK species either? ......and yes the principle is the same anywhere in the world. Studies from abroad as the article mentions in all classes of reptiles.....take your pick:
Look at the articles references'...........;)
 

Redfoot NERD

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HUH? Good greif guys! Let me try this again! I was saying the articles were written about UK and/or Mediterranean species tortoises - not that there is a UK redfoot. [ at best I left off the s in species ] The point was............ we are talking about a tortoise from a distant continent that has entirely different requirements than say a Russian tortoise.
 

N2TORTS

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I thought the subject was thermoregulation.....? What does locality have to do with it ? Many of us keep species from around the world, all based on the same "principles". The map link is swell ....although very inaccurate as there is enormous temperature grades within that colored map shown as “outside air temperatures” all do to altitudes that fall within those so –called marked boundaries’, for example the way a reptile may be able to harness the sun's energy at high altitudes where there may be abundant sunshine, but very low ambient air temperatures, may require a quite different strategy to a habitat with a low number of sunshine hours but high ambient air temperatures.
 

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