paint tray water dish

[68merc]

I have read posts where people say a paint tray would make a good water dish. I always thought it would be to light weight and slick. But I did like the idea and shape. Here is that I started this morning.

I did cut the legs off the paint tray.

Its sitting on the side of the house drying. Tomorrow I'll un-screw the forms and take out the paint tray. I don't know how strong it will be but my guess is after it cures for a week its will work for either of my tortoise pens.

 

[Tom]

Not all of us are so talented with building stuff, so I really like the play by play photos. Thanks. I don't have much experience messin' with concrete and forms, so these photos help a lot. Looking forward to tomorrows update.

 

[CJSTorts]

Great step by step pics! Did you have to put something on the paint tray so it releases from the concrete?

 

[wrmitchell22]

I love this step by step guide, I will have to show my hubby

 

[68merc]

@CJS, that would have been a good idea but sadly I didn't. If I have to cut the tray in pieces id be ok with that.

 

[CJSTorts]

@CJS, that would have been a good idea but sadly I didn't. If I have to cut the tray in pieces id be ok with that.

I can't wait to see the finished product!

 

[68merc]

@Tom, I've seen some of your stuff. You would have no problem with this.
Can't wait till tomorrow to see how my plan works.

 

[Fernando]

I use the paint tray. It's definitely not as thought out as that was, but it does the job. I just dig it flushed with the dirt at the moment. Once it gets dirty, I flip it over, rinse it and put it back in the ground.

I know they use it because there is food and dirt every other day that I have to clean out.

 

[ALDABRAMAN]

 

[ascott]

Very cool...fun stuff

You can also do this type of "watering hole" by digging out a pallet in the dirt in the shape you want ( about 1-2 inches deeper than the depth of the desired pallet depth) then pour your concrete in the pallet and working it into the shape that you would like the finished watering spot to be....let it dry for 48 hours and rinse out really well to remove loose residue...fill er up and when it is time to clean it out...do the ole put the hose in it run the water for awhile and it will flush out the old while bringing in the new water

 

[68merc]

so... tonight i took the forms off and it was a total loss!

the mortar was 2 years old and it fell apart. Ill try again with a new bag of concrete in the next few days.

The one good thing. The pan released from the mortar and ill use it again. Im also going to line the form with duck tape so the concrete doesn't stick.

Great learning experience.

also love the shape.

 

[dmmj]

If cement picks up any moisture it is usually ruined, great idea though, can't wait to see the project part II.

 

[boutselis]

We just use a 24" plastic pot tray. The kind that goes under large planter pots to hold water. We dug out some dirt so the top would be level with the grass. Its just big enough for our leapord to sit in.

 

[ascott]

I am sorry to have heard that...it is always a bit of a let down when the plan does not work out

May I suggest?

use a little more water using fast dry concrete (yes it will take a bit longer to dry) but it will be much more dense which is great for water hold/longevity.

to aid in less air bubbles/pockets you may want to use a rubber malet and tap (very gently, very easily) against the outside of each of the wood form.

okay so just one more suggestion? I would use a four sided frame vs 4 side plus the close bottom piece of wood...if you use the four sided frame set on a flat surface covered with a blue tarp (or the like) then pour your fine concrete into the frame just about 2-3 inches from the top of frame then press your paint tray into the concrete (like wiggle it wiggle it wiggle it) until it seeds nicely then use your rubber malet around the four wood frame pieces tapping ever so gently until you see the air bubbles rise to the top and a fine layer of water is on the top all around your tray, you can even use a trowel to smooth the edges and use a small (4 inch) bull nose trowel around the top between the concrete and the wood frame...then walk away for about 3 hours...come back and while the concrete is still damp, back the frame off gently then get the bull nose trowel wet and go around the edge to smooth it out..if you wait until the concrete has completely dried it will be near impossible to get a frame that will back off easily ...

 

[boutselis]

I have worked with various types of mortar and have a few ideas. Some one suggested using more water. that will make it easier to flow around the form ....

but will also make the concrete weaker. If you have ever seen a crumbling driveway or floor slab it was because they used to much water.

You can also do it this way. get a cheap plastic paint tray liner (like 99 cents) , pack it with moist fine sand so the whole liner is full and the sand is holding its shape, Put a piece of plywood over it and flip it up side down, put some sides on it and then gently fill it with concrete.

When it dries the thin plastic form will peal right out and you will have the shape you want.

I have done similar things like this but never actually a paint tray.

 

[ascott]

ok so I don't want to make a debate out of this but feel compelled to "share"...

adding more water is not so that it will flow easier around the form

crumbling driveways are because there was not enough water along with the concrete grade was too rocky

yes, you can use the plywood (I believe that is what was originally done by what I can see in the original pics) but if you let the concrete completely dry against that piece of plywood you will not get a clean pull...hence crumble

and if you want the edges to be smooth on your finished product (so little shells will not be gouged as they climb in/out) then you will want to back the frame off while the concrete is a touch moist/pliable still so that you can take a bull nose trowel around the edge of the entire block and wet slide the edges

thats all i am saying

oh except this one last thing....good luck to you in which ever way works out best for you

 

[boutselis]

ok so I don't want to make a debate out of this but feel compelled to "share"...

adding more water is not so that it will flow easier around the form

crumbling driveways are because there was not enough water along with the concrete grade was too rocky

yes, you can use the plywood (I believe that is what was originally done by what I can see in the original pics) but if you let the concrete completely dry against that piece of plywood you will not get a clean pull...hence crumble

and if you want the edges to be smooth on your finished product (so little shells will not be gouged as they climb in/out) then you will want to back the frame off while the concrete is a touch moist/pliable still so that you can take a bull nose trowel around the edge of the entire block and wet slide the edges

thats all i am saying

oh except this one last thing....good luck to you in which ever way works out best for you

excess water makes concrete weak. I think it even says so on bags of sakrete, all thinsets and even grout. If the top of your drive way or slab always has powdery concrete on it, it was because of to much water in the mix.
From a site that deals in concrete problems
"Water serves to react (hydrate) the cement, make the mix homogeneous and make the concrete workable and placeable. But too much water can result in excessive shrinkage and weakened concrete."

And the only reason you want to add more water to concrete is so it will flow easier. I can't think of any other reason to do so. Unless you want the concrete to by weak and crumbling.

 

[Yvonne G]

Ok, folks. You've both had your say. Let it go now. This is not a debate thread and the OP is free to choose whichever post he thinks will work for him.

 

[ascott]

Absolutely Yvonne....I assure I was done with my last post

I am excited too to see the finished product 68Merc

Thank you Yvonne !

 

[wildak]

Wow that's a great idea. I'm always looking for better water bowls that won't be death traps.
I once got 2" construction styrofoam and cut 2' pieces and glued them together with3m spray glue and then shaped it in a cool shape with a drain pipe and slapped morter all over it. It worked great buy ended up weighing 150 lbs and did'nt work out for me and went to the dump.
I will try this, would hydraulic concrete work better for holding water ? I used it for other things and it works great, dries hard in 10 minutes or less and it really strong.
Maybe use vegitable oil for form release instead of the standard form releases.

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You could also get one of those big pans for the 2 foot rollers.