This is only a newer outlet that will have the horizontal with the vertical. There is a outlet with only the horizontal on one side that guarantees 20 amp
Oil Filled Radiant Heater Issue
- Thread starter EppsDynasty
- Start date
no. 20 amp outlets (receptacles) are made to accept 15 or 20 amp plugs. 20 amp will have a 'T' on one side. "T" and vertical = 120v 20a. "T" and horizontal = 240v 20a
I can not risk fire so never use 15 amp breakers because to many of mine and others including @Yvonne G in the pic have had them burn. I can not explain WHY this is but it is a guarantee if using high wattage devices. This is not only with 1500 watt devices but will happen with 1000 watt high power devices (ie Lights and especially electric motors like fans). @Yvonne G, when they upgraded your panel you most likely had Zinsco panel and Breakers, I currently have this now. There is NO way to re wire your outlets without tearing apart your house. So you most likely still have the 15 amp original wire. The solar electrician could have put a 20 amp breaker on that wire though.
As the question still is unanswered, Why 15 amp outlets that are going to fail are allowed ... I am still going to keep putting in outlets I know are not going to fail ... This was the reason for the original post. Almost all of these heaters have a warranty on the actual product materials, parts and workmanship for only 1 year. If I performed work that was only expected to be fail free for 1 year It would not be considered to be GOOD work.
As the question still is unanswered, Why 15 amp outlets that are going to fail are allowed ... I am still going to keep putting in outlets I know are not going to fail ... This was the reason for the original post. Almost all of these heaters have a warranty on the actual product materials, parts and workmanship for only 1 year. If I performed work that was only expected to be fail free for 1 year It would not be considered to be GOOD work.
if theres a concern or uncertainty, 15 amp breakers should be the go to. wire in walls should be at least 14 gauge, 15 amp outlets, 15 amp breakers. everything matches.
15 amp outlets shouldn't fail more than 20 amp outlets. 1500 watts, even on 14 gauge wire, isn't getting hot enough to cause a fire. might be a little warm.
This 10 gauge wire is connected to an arc fault breaker?
If you don't want to worry about using a 1500 watt oil filled portable heater at full power here is what I have in my tortoise shed since 2014 and for 3 years at my old place in the tortoise shed.
10 gauge wiring in the sheds
30 amp breaker
20 amp outlets
10 gauge wiring in the sheds
30 amp breaker
20 amp outlets
somehow thats worse than anything thats been said so far, and 100% against code unless theres a 20 amp fuse or breaker between the 30 amp breaker and 20 amp outlets.
Hell Yes ... this is what I am talking about
How many electrical wiring projects have you done? Or is this google we're talking to?
In the winter time, in my area there is at least 1 fire a week from space heaters....according to my local fire department, so this is a real issue. And before you say the heat is causing the fire, most are electrical not combustion fires.
hahahaha
of course you think something blatantly wrong is somehow good. if 15 amp outlets are so bad on 20 amp circuits, then how are 20 amp better on 30 amp circuits?
Did not mean this as an attack but have you done any electrical wiring? Have you ever crawled under a house to re-wire something?
So as for your question ... I would only be for this setup with electrical devices with a high inrush of power such as electrical motors do. A well pump may require only 2500-3500 watts but on initial startup need up to 10,000 watts.
Okay, but again, I have had this for years now and never had a fire or burnt outlet or burnt plug and run full power on my heater 24/7. Proof is right there.
What you are saying is missing, stops any electrical problem in the shed from shooting back into the house and causing a problem there. But there is no problem so it doesn't matter.
1 more thing before I go Full Get S^&T Done mode.....
Any time I am running power further than 50 feet from breaker (This means actual wire length not physical length) I up (lower actually) the gauge. Such as not use 10 gauge for 30 amp need but up it to 8 gauge so I know I will avoid "Heat" issues within the wire itself. It takes power to get power and that process causes heat, ALWAYS ... it is just a matter of how much heat. If you want to avoid this in wiring, overkill is the only way to go. This is an answer to your question about 15 amp on 20 vs. 20 on 30 @jaizei. This is why I ask about your "real world" experience vs. google. A 15 amp outlet can let up to 20 amps go through it for small (micro seconds) without tripping, burning or any other problem. But a 15 amp outlet can not handle the heat that 20 amps outlets can ... the actual outlet. So using 15 amp outlets with high draw devices is a no no in my world, using a 20 amp outlet with a 30 amp breaker doesn't mean more heat.
Yes this is just what I was going to say ... maybe ....
Any time I am running power further than 50 feet from breaker (This means actual wire length not physical length) I up (lower actually) the gauge. Such as not use 10 gauge for 30 amp need but up it to 8 gauge so I know I will avoid "Heat" issues within the wire itself. It takes power to get power and that process causes heat, ALWAYS ... it is just a matter of how much heat. If you want to avoid this in wiring, overkill is the only way to go. This is an answer to your question about 15 amp on 20 vs. 20 on 30 @jaizei. This is why I ask about your "real world" experience vs. google. A 15 amp outlet can let up to 20 amps go through it for small (micro seconds) without tripping, burning or any other problem. But a 15 amp outlet can not handle the heat that 20 amps outlets can ... the actual outlet. So using 15 amp outlets with high draw devices is a no no in my world, using a 20 amp outlet with a 30 amp breaker doesn't mean more heat.
overkill isn't required if you understand what needs to be done.
startup/inrush current is factored when choosing breakers for motors. heaters don't have that type of inrush.
the 'heat' you're talking about isn't melting receptacles or causing fires. high current highlights problems faster. loose connections, old/faulty outlets or damaged cords/plugs.
a normally operating 15 amp breaker will typically let 20 amps through without tripping for 1-3 minutes, not microseconds. It's known because that is the nature of most common breakers. so that 20 amp receptacle on a 30 amp breaker could potentially have 40-50 amps for 1-3 minutes before tripping. makes it much more likely that any extension cord or plug strip used could be overloaded.
Never suppose to use the heaters this thread is about on extension cords or strips. That's a big fire hazard! Thermostats that are big enough to run the wattage of the heater is fine.
Oooo thank you, very helpful!
Megatron's Mom
Well-Known Member
Ok guys, I'm like super lost with all the posts. I'm in the planning stage on building my guys outside area. I'm going to build Tom's 4x8 and divide it for two. How the heck am I supposed to heat it if you aren't supposed to use extension cords?
The 1500 watt is the only ones I have used. That size is not to get used on an extension cord
The smaller ones, I have no idea but I doubt that they are.
At the time I worried the house had aluminum wire, but (I think it was Jaizei) assured me it wasn't.
You can buy ground contact Romex cable and make your own extension cord. 14 gauge solid wire should suffice for what you need. Or buy a 12 gauge extension cord. The last ground contact Romex I bought had a yellow protection cover instead of the normal white cover. The reason for getting a heavier wire extension cord is because they are braided wire not solid copper like the Romex.
