Oil Filled Radiant Heater Issue

[Cathie G]

I don't know the answer to that question. I only use one mini radiant heater and it is 700 watts max. I would guess that the settings for the two switch models aren't the same across all brands. A quick google search pulled up a few that are 600 watts on one switch and 900 watts on the other. So I suppose Low would be one switch on and 600 watts, medium would be the other switch on and 900 watts, high would be both switches on and 1500 watts.

I figure. I've never had to use one at full capacity ever even in really freezing situations. But you do need to keep a close watch on humidity because they dry out the air. I did run across a new simple one lately . It doesn't have a lot of digital crap. It does come close to the quality of the original delonghi oil filled heaters for around $29. And this one didn't cost much more so the simple ones are still out there. Who would use an electronic device at full blast for hours on end anyway? That's just asking for trouble.

 

[wellington]

I figure. I've never had to use one at full capacity ever even in really freezing situations. But you do need to keep a close watch on humidity because they dry out the air. I did run across a new simple one lately . It doesn't have a lot of digital crap. It does come close to the quality of the original delonghi oil filled heaters for around $29. And this one didn't cost much more so the simple ones are still out there. Who would use an electronic device at full blast for hours on end anyway? That's just asking for trouble.

I would, I do and have for about 12 years now 24/7 in winter with zero problems. Experience can prove a lot!

 

[Cathie G]

I would, I do and have for about 12 years now 24/7 in winter with zero problems. Experience can prove a lot!

With this thread going on I decided to check the cord on mine. It's been running for probably 16 years though the winter for Sapphire. The cord doesn't even get warm with using.. all my cords are protected also and encased or behind something a rabbit can't get to or chew thru 😁🐰

 

[EppsDynasty]

So ... missed alot of the responses, haven't been able to get to the forum for a couple days.

If the outlet is a 15 amp AND the wiring is rated for 15 amps (14 gauge) you are asking for a fire if using these heaters, on any setting. The reason why is because of any other power being drawn on that circuit, unknowingly over powering the wire until failure (fire). Lets say you have a 12 gauge wire or even 10 gauge with a 20 amp breaker (so everything is matched correctly) you still are risking a fire. This is because of the same thing, unknowingly running power on that same circuit causing an overload. Now if you just use more heaters on a lower setting you ARE still overloading the circuit, it's no difference than having 1 heater on high. There is a device that you can plug into ANY outlet in your home then go to your panel with the other part and touch it to your breakers. This device will make an audible noise letting you know the breaker attached to that outlet. You can then move that plug to another outlet and find out which breaker its on. I use the circular stickers commonly used for pricing yard sale items to label by color what outlets are on which circuits and then what breaker size. This is how you can LEARN exactly which outlets are on which circuits. Now you can learn what circuits are using what power to guarantee not overloading ANY circuit. Example: All outlets on the first breaker in the panel are labeled with a red sticker then, the next breakers outlets are labeled with a blue sticker and so on. This is the ONLY way you can figure out how much power you are ACTUALLY drawing on each circuit, by adding up the draw of items on that circuit. Klien is the manufacturer of the tool that I prefer, the tool is a "Circuit Breaker Finder"
Now that's sorted out so on to this ...
My family does not rely on CODE to keep us alive. It is VERY clear that using these heaters is a risk, everyone on here would most likely agree with that. If our home burns down, if anyone in my family is hurt or dies (including torts) from an electrical issue with these heaters CODE don't mean a damn thing. Code says it is ok to run 1 of these heaters on a 15 amp circuit when clearly it's a risk, so what does that say about code. My families safety is in MY hands so .... Whenever I need to use a "High Draw" electrical device I run new wire for that device. There is no room for an accident that way, I can sleep better knowing my family is safe period. I do not rely on some other person or entity to keep my family safe only to have REGRET.
I think that this is VERY important to say .... 1 time a month I inspect the outlets for loose connections. What needs to be understood is that when using a high amount of electricity through an outlet it will experience temp fluctuations causing expansion and contraction of said wire and the fasteners on the outlet no matter what you think. This is a real issue so checking it regularly is important to me ... it should be for you as well.
I am posting this info not because it's something I read or found on a google search it is because this is my real life experience and this is what I do to ensure my family is safe and thought it might help some other person in the real world help their family be safe.

 

[Cathie G]

So ... missed alot of the responses, haven't been able to get to the forum for a couple days.

If the outlet is a 15 amp AND the wiring is rated for 15 amps (14 gauge) you are asking for a fire if using these heaters, on any setting. The reason why is because of any other power being drawn on that circuit, unknowingly over powering the wire until failure (fire). Lets say you have a 12 gauge wire or even 10 gauge with a 20 amp breaker (so everything is matched correctly) you still are risking a fire. This is because of the same thing, unknowingly running power on that same circuit causing an overload. Now if you just use more heaters on a lower setting you ARE still overloading the circuit, it's no difference than having 1 heater on high. There is a device that you can plug into ANY outlet in your home then go to your panel with the other part and touch it to your breakers. This device will make an audible noise letting you know the breaker attached to that outlet. You can then move that plug to another outlet and find out which breaker its on. I use the circular stickers commonly used for pricing yard sale items to label by color what outlets are on which circuits and then what breaker size. This is how you can LEARN exactly which outlets are on which circuits. Now you can learn what circuits are using what power to guarantee not overloading ANY circuit. Example: All outlets on the first breaker in the panel are labeled with a red sticker then, the next breakers outlets are labeled with a blue sticker and so on. This is the ONLY way you can figure out how much power you are ACTUALLY drawing on each circuit, by adding up the draw of items on that circuit. Klien is the manufacturer of the tool that I prefer, the tool is a "Circuit Breaker Finder"
Now that's sorted out so on to this ...
My family does not rely on CODE to keep us alive. It is VERY clear that using these heaters is a risk, everyone on here would most likely agree with that. If our home burns down, if anyone in my family is hurt or dies (including torts) from an electrical issue with these heaters CODE don't mean a damn thing. Code says it is ok to run 1 of these heaters on a 15 amp circuit when clearly it's a risk, so what does that say about code. My families safety is in MY hands so .... Whenever I need to use a "High Draw" electrical device I run new wire for that device. There is no room for an accident that way, I can sleep better knowing my family is safe period. I do not rely on some other person or entity to keep my family safe only to have REGRET.
I think that this is VERY important to say .... 1 time a month I inspect the outlets for loose connections. What needs to be understood is that when using a high amount of electricity through an outlet it will experience temp fluctuations causing expansion and contraction of said wire and the fasteners on the outlet no matter what you think. This is a real issue so checking it regularly is important to me ... it should be for you as well.
I am posting this info not because it's something I read or found on a google search it is because this is my real life experience and this is what I do to ensure my family is safe and thought it might help some other person in the real world help their family be safe.

I've seen two wires blow apart so I don't doubt you a bit.

 

[SinLA]

Timely relevant article: (anyone should be able to access): https://wapo.st/3uzX7hP

 

[EppsDynasty]

Timely relevant article: (anyone should be able to access): https://wapo.st/3uzX7hP

Just so stupid that devices with this many problems are sold. I understand that tons of people use these with out problems but feel so bad for that elderly person just trying to not freeze and burns down the house. @SinLA thank you for posting this, 2 nights ago this subject was on "This Old House". With a space heater plugged in a 15 amp outlet that circuit is basically overloaded at 12.5 amps. Plug anything else in that circuit or had something already plugged in and WHAM failure. He turnred on another device and It took more than 10 seconds of the power pulled at 22 amps before the breaker tripped. I wish the best for all people and animals here and hate to see such a risk being used regularly. This is why I sleep so well knowing all my high draw devices are on their own lines and outlets.

 

[ofafeather]

Tom's tips:
-Never buy the kind with the tip over feature, or one that can be set digitally. I disable the tip over feature if it has one, but now I just don't buy those. The digital ones reset to factory settings every time the power goes off, and...
-Always run them on a separate reptile thermostat that is rated to handle the wattage. Doing this kills the power to the unit and resets the digital types to factory settings, mine was 65 degrees, so we can't use the digital ones. I buy the most basic "stripped" models I can find.
-Mine all have two switches. Low is 600 watts. Medium is 900 watts. Turn both on at the same time for High, which is then 1500 watts. ONLY use these heaters on low, as Yvonne said. Don't even touch that other switch. If low won't do it, add a second heater. If that doesn't do it, you need a different heating strategy. I use one on low for my whole reptile room. In December, January and February, when temps occasionally drop to near freezing at night I set up a second heater on a separate thermostat. This keeps it 80 all the time.

Tom, do you have any brands/models you like? How about for minis? Thanks!

 

[Tom]

Tom, do you have any brands/models you like? How about for minis? Thanks!

I think Optimus is probably the one I've used the most, but I just buy whatever one looks good when I look them up. All have worked perfectly and lasted forever.

I tried a flatter 400 watt one a few years back and I've now had two of those fail, so I'll be sticking to the "regular" type now.

 

[ofafeather]

I think Optimus is probably the one I've used the most, but I just buy whatever one looks good when I look them up. All have worked perfectly and lasted forever.

I tried a flatter 400 watt one a few years back and I've now had two of those fail, so I'll be sticking to the "regular" type now.

Thank you. Very helpful.