Any way you can link bulbs and the thermostat? What’s an ideal size for the enclosure and how do I build or buy a closed chamber that keep adequate heat, humidity, space and air
The thermostat pugs into the wall, and the CHE plugs into the thermostat. Easy Peasy! There are many types available. I've used this one, but there are many that will work:
tortoiseforum.org
That's easy.The thermostat pugs into the wall, and the CHE plugs into the thermostat. Easy Peasy! There are many types available. I've used this one, but there are many that will work:
A tortoise that size should be in something at least 3x6 feet. Tortoises need a lot of room to roam, but must be kept in their enclosures. Roaming on the floor will eventually lead to disaster. Large outdoor enclosure are best when the weather allows for it. You can get a closed chamber from our own @Markw84 or you can order one from Animal Plastics, or one of the many other companies making and selling them now. They aren't hermetically sealed, so the tortoise will get plenty of air flow. Sort of like your house in winter. Its all closed up, but we don't suffocate.
Here is a post on how to build your own if you are a little handy:
Building your own Expanded PVC Enclosed Chamber – For Beginners
I have recently been asked to do a post on building an enclosed chamber using PVC, and to tailor the post to those that have NO fabrication / wood working experience and the resultant lack of tools. So, that’s what this post is about. If you have even basic wood working or metal working skills...
For UV, you will want a long florescent tube. @ZEROPILOT has done some work with a UV meter and can recommend the best one for a RF.
Will the zoo Med thermostat suffice? Seems to have the same features.. also is there anything against wood enclosures? I feel as of wood would be easiest to build with to make a stable and adequate enclosure.The thermostat pugs into the wall, and the CHE plugs into the thermostat. Easy Peasy! There are many types available. I've used this one, but there are many that will work:
A tortoise that size should be in something at least 3x6 feet. Tortoises need a lot of room to roam, but must be kept in their enclosures. Roaming on the floor will eventually lead to disaster. Large outdoor enclosure are best when the weather allows for it. You can get a closed chamber from our own @Markw84 or you can order one from Animal Plastics, or one of the many other companies making and selling them now. They aren't hermetically sealed, so the tortoise will get plenty of air flow. Sort of like your house in winter. Its all closed up, but we don't suffocate.
Here is a post on how to build your own if you are a little handy:
Building your own Expanded PVC Enclosed Chamber – For Beginners
I have recently been asked to do a post on building an enclosed chamber using PVC, and to tailor the post to those that have NO fabrication / wood working experience and the resultant lack of tools. So, that’s what this post is about. If you have even basic wood working or metal working skills...
For UV, you will want a long florescent tube. @ZEROPILOT has done some work with a UV meter and can recommend the best one for a RF.
ZooMed doesn't make a 1000 watt one, so I'd say no. Zilla makes one, but most of what you need for tortoises isn't found at reptile supply places. UV tubes and the thermostats could be the exception. Substrate, hides, bowls, and most other stuff, doesn't come from a pet store.
What’s the need for 1,000 watt thermostat? I haven’t seen any CHE or lamp rated that high.
That's the most common size. Having one rated for more than you need is a good way to go. No one makes a decent one rated for less wattage than that.
Your redfoot is pretty!
Also, things made for the pet industry tend to be unreliable. I use a Vivosun thermostat, it was about $20 (and apparently also rated for 1000 - today I learn!).
If you can't do a major upgrade right away, the easiest tweak would be to get an indoor greenhouse tent to place over the tub. You can hang the lights from the center bars on the inside. I'm not sure what brand is good, but if you browse through the enclosures/redfoot sections, you'll see some examples. Once your tub is enclosed, you may only need a 75 watt CHE, and your humidity will hold much better. The tub really is kind of small for a yearling though, so it might be best to upgrade ASAP.
If you can return the cardboard-sticky temp gauges, digital gauges are better. With a digital gauge, you see immediate changes to humidity, which is very useful when you're trying to figure out a new enclosure. I've had to peel several unfortunate snakes off of those sticky gauges, I'm worried that they could stick to a tort's soft bits.
As Tom brought up, it'd be best to return the water bowl too (assuming you just bought it). A terracotta saucer will be much cheaper too! They are a good shape for clumsy lazy tortoises - here's an old pic of my cherryhead demonstrating. It's really rewarding to see them in the water with all of their limbs splayed out in full relax mode.
View attachment 321435
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with, and some pics of your new buddy
I did mix in a good amount of water, last I checked temp was 85 and around 65% humidity so it’s definitely going in the right direction. Could anyone give me some sort of help on red foot diet? What should they eat? How often and how much? So far I’ve tried romaine, strawberries and the tortoise food pellets moistened with water and of course the only luck was the strawberries.
www.tortoiseforum.org
