Easy red foot enclosure .

mike taylor

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They're smooth almost look wild caught . I feed turnip greens, mustard greens, collard greens , cactus, carrots, and mushrooms. No protein untill they're outside full time . Been working great for me.
 

Jay Bagley

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The key is to place the thermocouple close as you can to the che . It will turn off way before it gets close to 100 degrees . You don't need a basking spot for reds . What I do is take them out on the porch in a plastic container for a soak and let them hangout in the sun/ shade . I let them soak for about 30/40 minutes a day . Pictures don't do them justice. But here you go . View attachment 245590 View attachment 245591
They look great!
 

Anyfoot

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The key is to place the thermocouple close as you can to the che . It will turn off way before it gets close to 100 degrees . You don't need a basking spot for reds . What I do is take them out on the porch in a plastic container for a soak and let them hangout in the sun/ shade . I let them soak for about 30/40 minutes a day . Pictures don't do them justice. But here you go . View attachment 245590 View attachment 245591
They looking very good Mike, I can see the first true growth ring coming through. Keep soaking. I’ve noticed they all grow smooth for a certain period, then when the growth rings kick in it can go wrong if not kept hydrated enough. It’s as though when they grow off the areola is when it can go wrong. I’m not convinced growth speed is relevant but it maybe. I’ve grown some super slow, feeding only greens with plenty of supplements to see if they grew differently but the same growth pattern occurred as the guys I grew faster. All mine are super smooth up to about 6 months(regardless of size). Then some start with very very minor pyramiding and some carry on super smooth. I think they need soaking well after a yr old, size seems to have nothing to do with it.
Nice torts man.
 

Anyfoot

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I also think northerns need a higher hydration level than Brazilians, either that or it’s a pure fluke all 4 of my Brazilians look perfect.
 

mike taylor

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I think it's the heat lamps . That cause the pyramiding. They dry them out . Temperatures play a big part in it to . I'm thinking over 85 degrees is to hot .
 

Anyfoot

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I think it's the heat lamps . That cause the pyramiding. They dry them out . Temperatures play a big part in it to . I'm thinking over 85 degrees is to hot .
I agree Mike. I think 78/82f is ideal. I’ve not got any heat lamps what’s so ever and some show minor pyramiding.
 

daniellenc

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My CHE is definitely the cause of Skurts minor pyramiding but unfortunately he’s a basker and my new cage is not here yet! Very annoying to have a closed humid chamber and a hatchling that was soaked daily still pyramid. Wish I knew about RHP’s earlier.
 

mike taylor

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The four hatchlings I have know are growing smoothly . If I was home I'd pop some pictures . If I remember when we get back in town I'll post some new photos.
 

mike taylor

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Would be good for a adult red foot . There's a few things I didn't like in the video. The gauges he is using are no good. Red foots don't need to be on wet soil they're prone to shell rot issues. You keep humidity up by covering the enclosure. By covering the enclosure the top layer of soil stays dry . I also don't like using all them heat lamps . C.H.E. s are way better for heating . Plus they don't dry out the tortoises shell and cause pyramiding. As long as you install them correctly. But in the end the best place to keep any red foot is outside in a safe enclosure. My box is designed for hatchlings . When they out grow it they get moved outside.
 

Kevinrrussell

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Would be good for a adult red foot . There's a few things I didn't like in the video. The gauges he is using are no good. Red foots don't need to be on wet soil they're prone to shell rot issues. You keep humidity up by covering the enclosure. By covering the enclosure the top layer of soil stays dry . I also don't like using all them heat lamps . C.H.E. s are way better for heating . Plus they don't dry out the tortoises shell and cause pyramiding. As long as you install them correctly. But in the end the best place to keep any red foot is outside in a safe enclosure. My box is designed for hatchlings . When they out grow it they get moved outside.
C.H.E ceramic? I have 4 cermics, 4 heat lamps. No soil anywhere, coconut fiber, cypress wood chips and just set it up hide needs a heating pad. In michigan not outside yet...
 

mike taylor

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Ceramic heat emitter ( C.H.E.) if you cover the enclosure you would probably only need two .The soil ( coconut fiber ) is great . Everything else is good . I would cover the enclosure and out the ceramic heat emitters on a thermostat. I would also switch out the uvb lamps with the t8 or t5 5.0 fluorescent strip fixture. The gauges being used for heat and humidity are no good . They're never accurate. You can get a digital on from Home Depot for ten dollars. Your setup will work . Many people keep them the same way . But switching out the few things will save you money on your power bill and help control humidity better.
 

Kevinrrussell

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Ceramic heat emitter ( C.H.E.) if you cover the enclosure you would probably only need two .The soil ( coconut fiber ) is great . Everything else is good . I would cover the enclosure and out the ceramic heat emitters on a thermostat. I would also switch out the uvb lamps with the t8 or t5 5.0 fluorescent strip fixture. The gauges being used for heat and humidity are no good . They're never accurate. You can get a digital on from Home Depot for ten dollars. Your setup will work . Many people keep them the same way . But switching out the few things will save you money on your power bill and help control humidity better.
Great, that is very useful. I will update from home depot today.

 

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