New and struggling.

[Sir_Rusty]

Hello everyone,

We recently got a red foot for my son at Xmas. She is a beauty and has such character but I am really struggling with humidity and temperature. Over the past week I have tried so much of the advice I have read but to no avail. I have bought countless things to assist. The only thing I have left to do is completely take everything out and start again. Any advice will help. We are using chip bark substrate (have now purchased coco coir and some forest moss) i have a red heat lamp one end for basking and a blue night lamp at the other end. The temp through the night is always between 70-80 and during the day it ranges from 80-92. The humidity however fluctuates between 50-70. I have a misting system by exotic terra but I can't seem to get it right (where should it be spraying)

Again, any help would be appreciated.
Thank you.

 

[TeamZissou]

Is it an open topped enclosure? That will make it tough to keep the temp and humidity regulated unless you heat and humidify the entire room. Some photos would be good as well.

Have you started using the coir yet, or are you still waiting for it? Damp/wet coir will go a long way in keeping the humidity up.

Be sure to check out the redfoot care sheets in the South American tortoise sub forum.

 

[Sir_Rusty]

No it is a solid wooden enclosure with a glass front. I have not started using the coco yet, it came today.

Should I be looking to wet the entire enclosure? The trouble i have is that the heatamps are hanging from the top and can get wet quite easily.

 

[Sir_Rusty]

Some pics.

 

[Guts]

Take out the moss, they will eat it and it’s a hazard.

for humidity mix water into the coco with your hands until it’s moist but not soaking wet, I have to do this about once a day to keep my torts humidity where I want it

 

[TeamZissou]

Not sure on the best way to setup the misting system with regard to the lights. I imagine it would need to be placed at least 6" below the lights to avoid getting the lights wet.

With the coir + bark combo, you need to pour water directly onto the substrate to wet it down. Depending on the size of the enclosure and depth of the substrate, the coir can absorb a couple of gallons of water. If it's totally dry, you probably need to start with a gallon at least.

 

[Srmcclure]

There are a few things you can change that will help you. I have a redfoot as well so I know the struggle. The lights you have aren't good for torts. You are going to want a CHE on a thermostat. The che gives out no light, only heat. And placed in the middle so the whole enclosure never drops below 80, even at night. Dropping below 80° can cause respiratory infections. Your uvb light might be ok depending on what kind it is ?

If you have a proper closed chamber you won't need the misting system and can get your money back on it as well as the colored bulbs. I dump warm water into my corners so the humidity stays ubove 80% (actually closer to 85-90% in mine) and the top stays dry to help prevent shell fungus/rot.
Also, redfoot don't need a basking area.

These are my heating and light elements. The black box is a radient heat panel connected to a thermostat and the uvb light is a forest arcadia light. Thankfully redfoot are easy once you get the basics. My other tort is a leopard and his care is a bit more detailed.

 

[Ray--Opo]

Welcome, read the directions on the coco coir. I use the method of taking a handful of wet coir and squeeze it. It should stay pretty much together in a clump. If I squeeze it and water drips out of my hand. I consider that to wet.
Get a digital thermometer/ humidastat. The dial ones are inaccurate.

 

[Sir_Rusty]

There are a few things you can change that will help you. I have a redfoot as well so I know the struggle. The lights you have aren't good for torts. You are going to want a CHE on a thermostat. The che gives out no light, only heat. And placed in the middle so the whole enclosure never drops below 80, even at night. Dropping below 80° can cause respiratory infections. Your uvb light might be ok depending on what kind it is ?

If you have a proper closed chamber you won't need the misting system and can get your money back on it as well as the colored bulbs. I dump warm water into my corners so the humidity stays ubove 80% (actually closer to 85-90% in mine) and the top stays dry to help prevent shell fungus/rot.
Also, redfoot don't need a basking area.

These are my heating and light elements. The black box is a radient heat panel connected to a thermostat and the uvb light is a forest arcadia light. Thankfully redfoot are easy once you get the basics. My other tort is a leopard and his care is a bit more detailed.
View attachment 314617
View attachment 314618

This is very helpful thank you so much. So to summarise, I can get rid of the basking lamp and the night heat lamp completely if I get a che? And how much water are you dumping into the corners?

 

[Yvonne G]

Some pics.

View attachment 314614View attachment 314615View attachment 314616

Your enclosure is great!. . . the problem is how you're heating it.

Pour water over the chips (I don't like the coir-messy) then mix it up with your hand to get it evenly moist.

Here's another thing to buy, and you can ditch the two colored bulbs - either a radiant heat panel or a 100 watt Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE). The CHE is cheaper and will work just as well.

You want to strive for 80-85°F overall, day and night. If you attach the CHE to a thermostat it will get up to the set temperature then go on and off to maintain.

You did a nice job on the enclosure. watch to make sure your new tortoise doesn't eat the moss, you may have to remove it.

We have a couple good care sheets pinned towards the top of our redfoot section.

Welcome to the Forum!

 

[Srmcclure]

This is very helpful thank you so much. So to summarise, I can get rid of the basking lamp and the night heat lamp completely if I get a che? And how much water are you dumping into the corners?

Every enclosure is different. Mine is 6ft x 3ft, but when I had che's instead of my radiant heat panel, I had the 3ft uvb(same as seen in picture) in the center and one 65w che on each side of the enclosure and it kept that large space heated well. Both che where hooked up to thermostats and only came on when needed. The uvb is on a timer for 12 hours on/off. You can put a basking lamp in there if you want to but its not needed for this species. They like it 85° and lots of plant cover with 80%+ humidity. When you get the che, you need to get the thermostat, but they are like $16 on amazon and you'll want to put the probe on it in corner or away from the che so you know the whole enclosure is where it needs to be.

I just do it according to what the percentage is.
Typically for me its a tea pitcher full since its where it needs to be already and I'm just maintaining it. Make sure its warmer water your putting in though. Every once in a while I do mix it all up though just to make sure its all looking as it should.

 

[Srmcclure]

And like Yvonne said, the enclosure is very pretty! Small changes and you guys will be set with your new buddy! Also, a picture the baby tortie always goes over well here ? just sayin... lol

You may have to seal some of those vents to achieve the right temps and humidity, just a heads up. It does a chimney effect with the heat and moisture

 

[Sir_Rusty]

Thank you all sooo much. You have given me so much to work with. It has been stressing me out the last few days.

 

[Tom]

All great advice here.

To summarize: Your enclosure would be considered a "closed chamber". This is perfect. If the substrate is damp, and you have a large sunken water dish in there, and the humidity is too low, it means you have too much ventilation somewhere, or you are using a stick-on dial type hygrometer that is not accurate. Be sure to use a digital hygrometer, and close of some or all of the ventilation to hold in heat and humidity once you get your CHE or RHP and thermostat up and running. You don't want a RF on wet substrate. This will cause shell rot. Using a 3-4 inch layer of orchid bark will allow you to keep the lower layers more damp for good humidity, and the upper layers fairly dry to prevent shell rot.

 

[Srmcclure]

Thank you all sooo much. You have given me so much to work with. It has been stressing me out the last few days.

What a cute baby!!!! Best Christmas present ever!

 

[Ray--Opo]

Thank you all sooo much. You have given me so much to work with. It has been stressing me out the last few days.

Great looking tort!

 

[Mrs.Jennifer]

Thank you all sooo much. You have given me so much to work with. It has been stressing me out the last few days.

Such a sweet baby! Follow the advice here for a long and healthy life!

 

[Jasminemmm]

All great advice here.

To summarize: Your enclosure would be considered a "closed chamber". This is perfect. If the substrate is damp, and you have a large sunken water dish in there, and the humidity is too low, it means you have too much ventilation somewhere, or you are using a stick-on dial type hygrometer that is not accurate. Be sure to use a digital hygrometer, and close of some or all of the ventilation to hold in heat and humidity once you get your CHE or RHP and thermostat up and running. You don't want a RF on wet substrate. This will cause shell rot. Using a 3-4 inch layer of orchid bark will allow you to keep the lower layers more damp for good humidity, and the upper layers fairly dry to prevent shell rot.

What does RF mean?

 

[Skip K]

What does RF mean?

Redfoot

 

[Skip K]

How many inches appx is there from the top of the tortoises shell and the UVB light? Did the packaging on the UVB light have a chart on distance and UVB output numbers?