Mazuri questions

[Cowboy_Ken]

I'm a fan of powersun MVB. Longer lasting, and they provide the needed basking temps while supplying the uv. For my sulcata, I like a basking spot of 100-105. Mine are mounted in ceramic sockets and I replace the wire with a heavier duty cord. Also I wrap a piece of wire coat hanger around the base of the power cord where it joins the socket to keep it from moving. The heat will often cause the cord to become brittle and stabilizing it helps prevent it from decaying too fast.

 

[EricIvins]

You can feed Mazuri exclusively, with no supplements. It is a complete diet. The majority of my animals are fed Mazuri exclusively for 7+ years now with no issues, and that includes different age classes.....And yes, you can over supplement any animal. It is actually a common captive ailment.......

I also alternate feedings between dry and moistened Mazuri. You will never run into beak issues doing so.......

 

[Rover15]

You can feed Mazuri exclusively, with no supplements. It is a complete diet. The majority of my animals are fed Mazuri exclusively for 7+ years now with no issues, and that includes different age classes.....And yes, you can over supplement any animal. It is actually a common captive ailment.......

I also alternate feedings between dry and moistened Mazuri. You will never run into beak issues doing so.......

what type of tortoises do you have an how long have they been feed mazuri? do you have any pictures that you can share as well?

i'm only curious because there is a lot that seems to be lacking for my yellow foot there is no animal protein for one as well I believe there is no fruit in it either.

I feed it on a piece of slate so I don't have beak issues as of right now I do how ever keep an eye on it just to be sure.

ty for your input

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I'm a fan of powersun MVB. Longer lasting, and they provide the needed basking temps while supplying the uv. For my sulcata, I like a basking spot of 100-105. Mine are mounted in ceramic sockets and I replace the wire with a heavier duty cord. Also I wrap a piece of wire coat hanger around the base of the power cord where it joins the socket to keep it from moving. The heat will often cause the cord to become brittle and stabilizing it helps prevent it from decaying too fast.

do you find you lose heat with the wire cage lamp? right now I have my yellow foot in a glass terrarium with a 60w CHE(in a 8.5" dome) that keeps basking spot at 88-92 and the other end of the tank is down to about 78-82 area I will be moving her in to a wooden tortoise table by the end of the month I hope and then I will be using the solar glo when it is time to replace the bulb i'll buy a powersun to see the difference

 

[Cowboy_Ken]

My first cage design was enclosed with a circle cut out for the light dome. It is a close match size wise, but heat does escape. Second design is fully enclosed with lights mounted inside to keep more heat in. I have a CHE on a thermostat so daytime when it's not needed, because of the light being on, in doesn't turn on, yet at night it cycles to keep temps in 80-82 degree F. range.