Hi, I'm from Michigan and am interested in hiberbating my four Russians. Michigan winters range from -20 and lower to 50. Is there an optimum temperature? I heat with wood, so I could put them into a variety of temperatures from room to room. Cardboard & newspaper seem to be the popular choices, any advice?
Hibernating Russians dos and dont's
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RE: Hibernating Russains dos and dont's
A steady +5C (41F) is what I aim for.
Some people use a refrigerator. I use double-boxing - tort goes in small box filled with shredded paper which in turn goes in a massive box filled with straw. This stops a wriggling tort going too near the edges. The massive box is in an unheated garage (which doesn't have any room for cars in it, so the doors aren't opened that often)
A steady +5C (41F) is what I aim for.
Some people use a refrigerator. I use double-boxing - tort goes in small box filled with shredded paper which in turn goes in a massive box filled with straw. This stops a wriggling tort going too near the edges. The massive box is in an unheated garage (which doesn't have any room for cars in it, so the doors aren't opened that often)
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RE: Hibernating Russains dos and dont's
I hibernated my Russian ( for the first time) in my garage last winter. I put her in a cardboard box with a loose towl. Then I placed the box in a airtight plastic box, I drilled lots of holes in. We have roof rats so I wanted to make sure nothing got in there. I did check on her almost daily. I live in Az so the temps in my garage never got below 55 degrees. She was in there for almost 3 months. Our temps were in the high 60's...almost 70's and I checked on her and she was upside down and awake in the box! I will hopefully do the same next fall/ winter.
I did have her in a workroom inside of my garage, so there wasn't a lot of noise/ car exhaust.
I hibernated my Russian ( for the first time) in my garage last winter. I put her in a cardboard box with a loose towl. Then I placed the box in a airtight plastic box, I drilled lots of holes in. We have roof rats so I wanted to make sure nothing got in there. I did check on her almost daily. I live in Az so the temps in my garage never got below 55 degrees. She was in there for almost 3 months. Our temps were in the high 60's...almost 70's and I checked on her and she was upside down and awake in the box! I will hopefully do the same next fall/ winter.
Niki said:
I did have her in a workroom inside of my garage, so there wasn't a lot of noise/ car exhaust.
RE: Hibernating Russains dos and dont's
mines digs down and hibernates outside. the area he is in, stays dry. I want to bring him in, but I always miss it. Maybe this year.. cuz i do worry....
mines digs down and hibernates outside. the area he is in, stays dry. I want to bring him in, but I always miss it. Maybe this year.. cuz i do worry....
RE: Hibernating Russains dos and dont's
What you want to avoid is allowing them to get wet during hibernation. Some of our members who live where it snows in winter actually allow outdoor hibernation, but under the snow, it stays pretty dry. If your winters get a lot of rain, then hibernation outside is bad. I box mine up and cover them with shredded newspaper and put them inside an old vacant house at the back of my property. You don't want them to get down below freezing, or up above 45F or so.
What you want to avoid is allowing them to get wet during hibernation. Some of our members who live where it snows in winter actually allow outdoor hibernation, but under the snow, it stays pretty dry. If your winters get a lot of rain, then hibernation outside is bad. I box mine up and cover them with shredded newspaper and put them inside an old vacant house at the back of my property. You don't want them to get down below freezing, or up above 45F or so.
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RE: Hibernating Russains dos and dont's
Russians, unlike other hibernating Testudo species usually need to be kept colder more consistently as well as drier in order to truly brumate (hibernate). Temperatures in the range of 37-40 degree are ideal. Humidity should be below 60%. Each situation is different so humidity may vary some. Many Russians will not "sleep" at temperatures above 40 degrees and will be constantly restless during brumation. This is absolutely not healthy for them. When this happens they are burning valuable fat reserves more rapidly because they are not in true brumation. Attempting to brumate them within a house, even one that is cooler in the winter, will not be cold enough. Unless you have a room that is and stays below 40 degrees. In captivity an artificial means of brumation is usually better and safer. Refrigerators work well. Temperature and humidity levels need to be monitored and kept within correct range. This is easily done with a couple of inexpensive digital thermometer/hygrometers.
phowlett said:
Russians, unlike other hibernating Testudo species usually need to be kept colder more consistently as well as drier in order to truly brumate (hibernate). Temperatures in the range of 37-40 degree are ideal. Humidity should be below 60%. Each situation is different so humidity may vary some. Many Russians will not "sleep" at temperatures above 40 degrees and will be constantly restless during brumation. This is absolutely not healthy for them. When this happens they are burning valuable fat reserves more rapidly because they are not in true brumation. Attempting to brumate them within a house, even one that is cooler in the winter, will not be cold enough. Unless you have a room that is and stays below 40 degrees. In captivity an artificial means of brumation is usually better and safer. Refrigerators work well. Temperature and humidity levels need to be monitored and kept within correct range. This is easily done with a couple of inexpensive digital thermometer/hygrometers.
Thanks for the advice everyone. I am leery about letting them brumate(thanks for the new vocab) outside, Michigan is weird when it comes to winter. I have a back room that I don't heat, so it's that or the fridge. With the mild winter we had last season, I am expecting a nice severe Michigan winter, so garage could become too cold for such things. Awesome advice and tips.
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phowlett said:
Garage brumation usually isn't a good idea, nor is any area where the temperatures can fluctuate even just a few degrees. The temperatures during brumation should remain as constant as possible. Outdoor brumation in most northern areas of the U.S. can be risky due to the increased moisture in the soil. Some brumating tortoises, such as the Hermann's subspecies do fine with higher soil moisture content. Mine actually sometimes come out of the ground with mud caked on them. Russian tortoises do not do as well with that much soil moisture.
Isn't there also the worry about having them freeze completely? We get a lot of stretches where is is 20 degrees or below for a week during the winter? I am leery of anything outdoor for my chica.
There is a worry about them freezing. In the wild, hibernating torts dig into the ground where it's warmer than than air temperature and the temperature is steady. If it gets very cold, they just dig deeper.
In the UK we can get down to 14F in a bad winter even in the South. In a good winter, the opposite is a problem and the temperature doesn't drop below 50F even at night.
For those of us hibernating in boxes or fridges, it is important that we maintain a steady temperature. Poorly insulated outbuildings can end up below freezing temperature, especially if doors are opened. that's why the hibernation place has to be chosen carefully and monitored regularly.
In the UK we can get down to 14F in a bad winter even in the South. In a good winter, the opposite is a problem and the temperature doesn't drop below 50F even at night.
For those of us hibernating in boxes or fridges, it is important that we maintain a steady temperature. Poorly insulated outbuildings can end up below freezing temperature, especially if doors are opened. that's why the hibernation place has to be chosen carefully and monitored regularly.
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Yes long term exposure to temperatures well below freezing is a concern. As JoesMum states, tortoises compensate for changing temperatures around them. Another very important reason to maintain a temperature during brumation that is as constant as possible. Every time they dig up or down they are again using very crucial fat reserves. So as little movement as possible is ideal for brumating tortoises.
I do not suggest the following whatsoever, but-many Testudo species, especially Russians can and do withstand temperatures well below freezing for periods of time with no ill effects under dry conditions. I have seen it with my own when brumated outdoors. Eastern Box turtles can also withstand exposure to temperatures below freezing while in brumation. Again, it's just an observation and I do not suggest doing so whatsoever.
I do not suggest the following whatsoever, but-many Testudo species, especially Russians can and do withstand temperatures well below freezing for periods of time with no ill effects under dry conditions. I have seen it with my own when brumated outdoors. Eastern Box turtles can also withstand exposure to temperatures below freezing while in brumation. Again, it's just an observation and I do not suggest doing so whatsoever.
RE: Hibernating Russians dos and donts
Are there any concerns with lack of oxygen in a refrigerator, or will the daily openings for food items be sufficient? Will these openings disturb brumation? Maybe a temperature between 35 and 40? I am leaning toward this as Michigan winters have become unpredictable lately.
Sorry about the "dont's" in the heading. I know it's not possessive, don't know why I did it. Where can I get a hygrometer, as I need to measure the humidity in my refrigerator. It's new, so I'm not sure if that matters technology wise, maybe it's better at reducing humidity?
Are there any concerns with lack of oxygen in a refrigerator, or will the daily openings for food items be sufficient? Will these openings disturb brumation? Maybe a temperature between 35 and 40? I am leaning toward this as Michigan winters have become unpredictable lately.
Sorry about the "dont's" in the heading. I know it's not possessive, don't know why I did it. Where can I get a hygrometer, as I need to measure the humidity in my refrigerator. It's new, so I'm not sure if that matters technology wise, maybe it's better at reducing humidity?
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RE: Hibernating Russians dos and donts
A good working refrigerator should have a tight door seal. If it doesn't it will be running non-stop and will not be able to maintain a constant temperature inside. So yes, low oxygen can be a concern. Simply open the door for a few seconds every few days. As long as the door isn't left open long enough to change the temperature within the refrigerator more than a few degrees it will have no effect on the tortoises within.
An inexpensive, reliable thermometer/hygrometer can be purchased at about any hardware store or big box store. Everyone has their preferences as far as brand. I personally have used Springfield model 91551. I have several that have been in used for years now. They're inexpensive and have proven to be fairly accurate.
phowlett said:
A good working refrigerator should have a tight door seal. If it doesn't it will be running non-stop and will not be able to maintain a constant temperature inside. So yes, low oxygen can be a concern. Simply open the door for a few seconds every few days. As long as the door isn't left open long enough to change the temperature within the refrigerator more than a few degrees it will have no effect on the tortoises within.
An inexpensive, reliable thermometer/hygrometer can be purchased at about any hardware store or big box store. Everyone has their preferences as far as brand. I personally have used Springfield model 91551. I have several that have been in used for years now. They're inexpensive and have proven to be fairly accurate.
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