Habitat drawing

[lynnedit]

Lucky tort!

 

[redbeef]

does anyone think a ceramic heat emitter might be a good idea for keeping nighttime temps from getting too low? I guess it depends on how well the house/room is heated/insulated...

just a thought: saw all this talk of UV and incandescent heat and not much about keeping night temps up to keep the tort out of hibernation mode...

 

[kirbybirby]

does anyone think a ceramic heat emitter might be a good idea for keeping nighttime temps from getting too low? I guess it depends on how well the house/room is heated/insulated...

just a thought: saw all this talk of UV and incandescent heat and not much about keeping night temps up to keep the tort out of hibernation mode...

How cold can it get at night? In the summer it won't be a problem. But right now its winter and even though my house is heated, my room gets quite cold sometimes. Maybe its because i leave my door open all the time... Its usually about 61-62 in my room. Even during the day. I know, that's cold.

 

[Tom]

does anyone think a ceramic heat emitter might be a good idea for keeping nighttime temps from getting too low? I guess it depends on how well the house/room is heated/insulated...

just a thought: saw all this talk of UV and incandescent heat and not much about keeping night temps up to keep the tort out of hibernation mode...

How cold can it get at night? In the summer it won't be a problem. But right now its winter and even though my house is heated, my room gets quite cold sometimes. Maybe its because i leave my door open all the time... Its usually about 61-62 in my room. Even during the day. I know, that's cold.

Depends on species and age. For hatchlings of any species 78-80 at night is as low as I like to go. For an adult russian 65 at night is fine as long as they can warm up during the day. Many people keep them outside with night temps in the 50's or even 40's. Just don't forget to assess the difference between what they can "tolerate" vs. what is "optimal" for YOUR situation.

 

[kirbybirby]

I'm assuming it's gonna be about 4inches. it's a russian tortoise. the hatchlings are like $200

 

[lynnedit]

That's right. It does depend if you are getting a hatchling vs a juvenile or adult, as far as night temps. You should not need night heat unless it is a hatchling.
I think a plastic container (hopefully the Xmas Tree Box soon!) might work well for you, being more air tight.
Have your lights on a timer, and watch your tort's schedule. If he is rustling around at 6a, have the lights come on at 5:30a to get his basking area warmed up. Keep it on 12-14 hours.
I also have a second regular light bulb in a smaller fixture to add extra light and a bit of heat during the day as well.(you might not need that in your smaller container, but can monitor the temps when you get the larger one).
You could use the lid with only part of the top cut out (leave maybe 1/4 or 1/3) to help retain the heat over the side he sleeps in. Placing tiles/slate here and there, including under the basking area, helps retain heat too.
Basically, monitor your night heat with a good digital thermometer on a probe or a PE-1 infared thermometer. if >60, your tort should be fine if he can get to his nice toasty basking area when we wakes up.

 

[kirbybirby]

That's right. It does depend if you are getting a hatchling vs a juvenile or adult, as far as night temps. You should not need night heat unless it is a hatchling.
I think a plastic container (hopefully the Xmas Tree Box soon!) might work well for you, being more air tight.
Have your lights on a timer, and watch your tort's schedule. If he is rustling around at 6a, have the lights come on at 5:30a to get his basking area warmed up. Keep it on 12-14 hours.
I also have a second regular light bulb in a smaller fixture to add extra light and a bit of heat during the day as well.(you might not need that in your smaller container, but can monitor the temps when you get the larger one).
You could use the lid with only part of the top cut out (leave maybe 1/4 or 1/3) to help retain the heat over the side he sleeps in. Placing tiles/slate here and there, including under the basking area, helps retain heat too.
Basically, monitor your night heat with a good digital thermometer on a probe or a PE-1 infared thermometer. if >60, your tort should be fine if he can get to his nice toasty basking area when we wakes up.

Yeah I've got a timer so that'll be fine. Im getting him in a few hours so ill post pictures later tonight of the new setup.

 

[lynnedit]

Looking forward to it!

 

[kirbybirby]

I attached pictures of his setup. I used coconut stuff that I found at Petsmart and then I put some cypress mulch on top... But.. it seems to be getting all over him, even when he isn't wet. is that normal? Also give me feedback on the setup. I wanna know if everything is laid out okay.

Also, he seems to just be hiding under his log since I brought him home tonight... I assume he's just tired and worn out. And I tried to feed him something but he didn't eat it (lettuce). He seems heavy so I heard that that's a good sign. There aren't any white spots on his shell but I did notice a small chip on his shell when I got home. Nothing major at all. It's not deep or even big, it's just like a flake came off. And his eyes aren't hazy or anything.

 

[lynnedit]

The coir does tend to stick to them, that's normal. But they don't care. You can sprinkle water in the substrate, a fair amount, to keep it moist, especially in the underlayers of the substrate.
He looks good, nice face, and if he is heavy, you're right, that is a good sign.
Russians often warm up sooner than other species, but they can still be shy for even 2-3 weeks.
Big adjustment for him. Soak him daily for a week then 1-2x per week.
There is some thought that screening can block the UVB. You might consider cutting a hole in the screen big enough for the light fixture so you can adjust it up and down to get the basking area temp right (~95). No closer than 12" to the tort's shell. I do like how you have it facing straight down. Remember, if the basking area isn't warm enough, they may burrow down and become less active (that applies after he is used to his new home, though). If it won't warm up despite this change, add a basking tile or piece of slate.
Over time you can add more 'furniture': large flat stones for him to climb over, or a log. If you run one of these down the middle, you can build up the substrate on the cooler side for more burrowing options. I found some inexpensive 'hanging' plants at a Craft store, in smallish pots, that I attached to the side of the enclosure that hang down in one area, making it more interesting.
You are off to a good start!

 

[kirbybirby]

The coir does tend to stick to them, that's normal. But they don't care. You can sprinkle water in the substrate, a fair amount, to keep it moist, especially in the underlayers of the substrate.
He looks good, nice face, and if he is heavy, you're right, that is a good sign.
Russians often warm up sooner than other species, but they can still be shy for even 2-3 weeks.
Big adjustment for him. Soak him daily for a week then 1-2x per week.
There is some thought that screening can block the UVB. You might consider cutting a hole in the screen big enough for the light fixture so you can adjust it up and down to get the basking area temp right (~95). No closer than 12" to the tort's shell. I do like how you have it facing straight down. Remember, if the basking area isn't warm enough, they may burrow down and become less active (that applies after he is used to his new home, though). If it won't warm up despite this change, add a basking tile or piece of slate.
Over time you can add more 'furniture': large flat stones for him to climb over, or a log. If you run one of these down the middle, you can build up the substrate on the cooler side for more burrowing options. I found some inexpensive 'hanging' plants at a Craft store, in smallish pots, that I attached to the side of the enclosure that hang down in one area, making it more interesting.
You are off to a good start!

Yeah I already removed the metal screen, the light wasn't even close enough. And it's also a 50 watt bulb so it has to be like 6 inches away because it's such a low wattage one (in order for it to get about 95.) My 100 some watt one hasn't come in the mail yet. I also put a piece of slate under the basking spot, and he's been on it all morning, sleeping I might add. Oh and I got a ceramic light fixture, as recommended.

And okay I'll soak him. I assume the water needs to be pretty warm right? Also, he hasn't eaten anything yet and he hasn't ventured off into his water bowl... But, I only got him just last night. I wish it was summer, this would be a lot more easier, and more fun for him :\

 

[kirbybirby]

Update

I took him outside today because it was in the high 60's, low 70's. and he seemed to really enjoy it. He ate some grass and weeds. However he hasn't even touched his food inside his habitat... He also seems to be sleeping, a lot. Is that normal? If it is, that's fine I just wanna make sure he isn't sick or something.

Another important question I have: The lady at Petsmart said they change out their bedding, completely, every week. If I have to buy like $7 of coconut stuff every week then this is gonna be really expensive... and I was told by a lot of people that you only need to completely change out the bedding once a year... I'm confused.... again :\

 

[lynnedit]

In general, take the advice Pet stores give (except perhaps the rare Reptile store) with a very large grain of salt. They probably change the substrate because they cram so many torts in, and there may be some kind of health rule. However, most Pet stores give inaccurate advice.
Once a year might be enough, or every 6 months, IF you spot clean what you can see. Another option is to change out, say, 1/4 of the substrate every 4 months or so. No need to do more than that, but base it on how the substrate looks (and smells) overall. Make sure to add some water to the substrate as well.
I expect my substrate to last over the winter, but I spot clean just about daily, and change out the water every 2-3 days or as needed.
Yes, soaking is about the most important thing you can do right now. Water warm to touch, (warmer than cool) and refresh it if it cools while he is in it. Level up to just above the bottom of his shell. Definitely do it daily for a week, then 2-3x per week.
I added a jar of baby food (carrot or sweet potato), they actually absorb this through their skin, and it helps restore vitamin A more naturally.
See how your tort does with the new light. Bulb no closer than 12" to his shell, farther if too hot. Adequate lighting, warmth (basking) and soaking are the cornerstones to getting a tort healthy.
Since he is likely wild caught, you probably should consider having a fecal test done by a vet. This usually involves an office visit fee, and you do want to check our Vet list for a Reptile vet. However, since he is alone, I think you see how he does with the Powersun bulb too, to decide how urgently you need to schedule this visit. If he does not perk up with it, I think the vet is indicated sooner.
Great idea to take him outside, even for an hour. 1 hour of REAL sun is equivalent to hours inside under an MVB.
Don't worry about him eating yet. That can take awhile. Soaking may help. Being outside will definitely help.

---

Can you change out your temporary bulb to a 100w house bulb to help with warmth, so it does not have to be so close? (make sure your fixture can accommodate that wattage).

 

[kirbybirby]

In general, take the advice Pet stores give (except perhaps the rare Reptile store) with a very large grain of salt. They probably change the substrate because they cram so many torts in, and there may be some kind of health rule. However, most Pet stores give inaccurate advice.
Once a year might be enough, or every 6 months, IF you spot clean what you can see. Another option is to change out, say, 1/4 of the substrate every 4 months or so. No need to do more than that, but base it on how the substrate looks (and smells) overall. Make sure to add some water to the substrate as well.
I expect my substrate to last over the winter, but I spot clean just about daily, and change out the water every 2-3 days or as needed.
Yes, soaking is about the most important thing you can do right now. Water warm to touch, (warmer than cool) and refresh it if it cools while he is in it. Level up to just above the bottom of his shell. Definitely do it daily for a week, then 2-3x per week.
I added a jar of baby food (carrot or sweet potato), they actually absorb this through their skin, and it helps restore vitamin A more naturally.
See how your tort does with the new light. Bulb no closer than 12" to his shell, farther if too hot. Adequate lighting, warmth (basking) and soaking are the cornerstones to getting a tort healthy.
Since he is likely wild caught, you probably should consider having a fecal test done by a vet. This usually involves an office visit fee, and you do want to check our Vet list for a Reptile vet. However, since he is alone, I think you see how he does with the Powersun bulb too, to decide how urgently you need to schedule this visit. If he does not perk up with it, I think the vet is indicated sooner.
Great idea to take him outside, even for an hour. 1 hour of REAL sun is equivalent to hours inside under an MVB.
Don't worry about him eating yet. That can take awhile. Soaking may help. Being outside will definitely help.

---

Can you change out your temporary bulb to a 100w house bulb to help with warmth, so it does not have to be so close? (make sure your fixture can accommodate that wattage).

---

Thanks for the advice. How much does a vet checkup cost?

 

[lynnedit]

Probably too much in larger cities. I would look on this forum at the vet list and also http://russiantortoise.net/index.htm to find a Reptile Vet.
Call them to get a price ahead of time.
Fecal testing can be $20-30 give or take. The office visit is often more, but some are kind of a rip off. You may be able to negotiate ahead of time a bit.
The good news is that with proper care, most torts don't have to go the the vet a lot, they certainly don't need regular vaccines like dogs and horses!
I think you have some time to observe him since he is so new. See what happens with the new light, and can you just get a stronger house bulb for your fixture: 75 or 100w?

 

[kirbybirby]

Probably too much in larger cities. I would look on this forum at the vet list and also http://russiantortoise.net/index.htm to find a Reptile Vet.
Call them to get a price ahead of time.
Fecal testing can be $20-30 give or take. The office visit is often more, but some are kind of a rip off. You may be able to negotiate ahead of time a bit.
The good news is that with proper care, most torts don't have to go the the vet a lot, they certainly don't need regular vaccines like dogs and horses!
I think you have some time to observe him since he is so new. See what happens with the new light, and can you just get a stronger house bulb for your fixture: 75 or 100w?

Well ill just see how it goes within a few weeks or so. And I've got the 50watt uva/heat lamp in there for now so im just gonna leave that in there until i get the other one.. I literally have no other lights haha.

 

[lynnedit]

Won't be long before you get your new bulb. You can even use a desk lamp for extra heat temporarily if needed, might not be.

 

[kirbybirby]

Won't be long before you get your new bulb. You can even use a desk lamp for extra heat temporarily if needed, might not be.

Yeah, the one he has right now should be fine for a while.

 

[lynnedit]

sounds good!

 

[kirbybirby]

Also, I know someone suggested a heat emitter for at night. I was thinking about getting one but only if it's necessary. How cold can it get at night? Typically my room is around 61-63 at night, and during the day. I have no idea why, the rest of the house is super warm and I'm even on the second floor. And no I can't move the turtle habitat anywhere else, my parents wouldn't allow it :\ (Yeah, I'm not that old haha.) But, I'm also concerned about all this wattage. I don't pay for the electric bill so I have to keep my wattage low. Is there a heat emitter that's lower in wattage but still works? Because the MVB daytime bulb I'm getting is like 100 and some watts I think. Plus, Kirby seems to move to many different spots at night. I usually have to show him where his log is and then he'll go under it. I think I need a bigger one too.

Another thing, he keeps digging. All day. I'm guessing that's normal though. And he still hasn't even looked at his water bowl. it's definitely big enough for him to get into. I put him in there once but he never went back in it.