Can you answer a question I have?

[dannylozano10]

Hey guys I've always had a couple of questions that I haven't gotten clear yet even if they have been answered anyways I will make a list and feel free to answer any you may know.thanks much appreciated.oh and sorry for sounding like I don't know anything there just questions I've always wanted to make sure I knew the right answers too

1.should I keep my tortoise that I'm getting inside all night for the first couple of weeks or should I leave him out?

2.is soaking a baby Russian 3 times a week too much?or too less?and is it to much for a adult Russian tortoise to be soaked 3 times a week?

3.what all should I have in my outdoor enclosure?(I have a hide,food/water dish)I am planning on building a underground getaway hide. But I feel it's still to plain.

4.is it ok to have a calcium block in his enclosure even when I'm giving him powered calcium on his food?and how many times a week should I give him the powered calcium?

5.when do I start the pre hybernation when it becomes that time of year?

6.is 15 minute soaks good enough?

7.what time of day should I feed him?im guessing when It's convenient for me right?(which is pretty much the morning time before school)

8.should I always have Neosporin on hand if there's any cuts or injures?or what ointment is safe and best?

9.when I get him after his first soak where should I put him in his indoor or outdoor enclosure?

10.is it ok if the night temp for a inside enclosure is 70 for a Russian?

thanks again!!!

 

[Lyn W]

What are your outside temps day and night at the moment?
It is my understanding from reading posts from experienced keepers that babies should be inside for maybe up to the first couple of years - with only supervised outdoor time when the ground temps are warm enough. I may be wrong but that would make sense to me.
Plants are good for indoor and outdoor enclosures to provide a hide away and make the tort feel secure. Spider plants are commonly used indoors but see www.thetoroisetable.org.uk for tort safe plants. If store bought they should be re- potted and time allowed for any chemical fertilisers/sprays to grow out, I have seen times of 6 months to a year given to allow for this, so if you can get cuttings from established chemical free plants that may be better.
Re calcium - a small pinch 2 or 3 times a week is all that is needed. A cuttlefish bone in the enclosure will help keep beak trimmed and provide calcium when the tort feels he needs it, he may not touch it for weeks but then have a good nibble and leave it again.
I'm sure someone else will add to your thread with answers to your other questions, but refer to the caresheet too, and Beginners Mistakes (link below) or use the search facility to try to find the info you need.

 

[dannylozano10]

What are your outside temps day and night at the moment?
It is my understanding that babies should be inside for maybe up to the first couple of years - with only supervised outdoor time when the ground temps are warm enough. I may be wrong but that would make sense to me.

Well tom has them outside year round but that question was basically asking when I first get him should I bring him in at night or leave him out. But our outside temps currently are in the 40's but i won't ever have him out in cold weather

 

[dannylozano10]

**UPDATE**

Another question I had was should I bring him in if its raining outside?

 

[G-stars]

Hello, have you read this yet?

http://www.tortoiseforum.org/index.php?threads/Russian-Tortoise-Care-Sheet.80698/

And I believe Tom doesn't have them out during the winter as he hibernates them. Most of your questions should be addressed in that care sheet.

 

[dannylozano10]

Hello, have you read this yet?

http://www.tortoiseforum.org/index.php?threads/Russian-Tortoise-Care-Sheet.80698/

And I believe Tom doesn't have them out during the winter as he hibernates them. Most of your questions should be addressed in that care sheet.

Yes I know that he hibernates them that's why I haven't got mine yet but I'm gonna hibernate mine too but ok I will have a look at the thread

 

[memy02]

1.should I keep my tortoise that I'm getting inside all night for the first couple of weeks or should I leave him out?

Assuming the night time temperature doesn't drop below the 60's then there shouldn't be a problem with staying outside. Now if you're worried it might get too cold or may not be safe (night time predators or whatever) then there is nothing wrong with bringing it in for the night where you can keep it safe and happy.

2.is soaking a baby Russian 3 times a week too much?or too less?and is it to much for a adult Russian tortoise to be soaked 3 times a week?

For babies, because they can't regulate their moisture level as well, soakings are important. Some guides say to do a daily soaking for hatchlings and about every other day for juveniles. If the baby is still small I would probably aim for soaking about 5 times a week and gradually cut back by a day at a time when it seems big enough

3.what all should I have in my outdoor enclosure?(I have a hide,food/water dish)I am planning on building a underground getaway hide. But I feel it's still to plain.

I would suggest growing plants the tortoise can eat in it to go along with the food and water dish. It is also important for an outdoor enclosure to have access to plenty of sun as well as plenty of shady spots so the tortoise has it's choice of microclimates. Other then that it is personal preference and aesthetics.

4.is it ok to have a calcium block in his enclosure even when I'm giving him powered calcium on his food?and how many times a week should I give him the powered calcium?

a calcium block like a cuttlebone is great to have in the enclosure to go along with the powered calcium as the tortoise knows better then we do when it needs more calcium. It is not uncommon for a cuttlebone to go for weeks untouched and then almost disappear overnight so don't worry if the tort shows no interest in it for a while.

5.when do I start the pre hybernation when it becomes that time of year?

I have no clue, but since Tom is hibernating them I would ask him directly about what you need to do and when.

6.is 15 minute soaks good enough?

Sounds fine, I have seen suggested soaking times range from 10-20 min with luke-warm water.

7.what time of day should I feed him?im guessing when It's convenient for me right?(which is pretty much the morning time before school)

Morning is a better choice then evening as the tortoise will use the basking area to help digest their food so morning lets them process the food during the day. I would also suggest having something edible in its enclosure (like timothy, orchard, or bermuda grass but not alfafa because it is to high in protein) so the tortoise can nibble on the grass if it wants.

8.should I always have Neosporin on hand if there's any cuts or injures?or what ointment is safe and best?

I have no clue but I would think the best person to ask is your tortoises vet.

9.when I get him after his first soak where should I put him in his indoor or outdoor enclosure?

Your choice, ether is fine as long as it is warm enough outside. You may want to gently towel off your tortoise before returning it to the enclosure you choose.

10.is it ok if the night temp for a inside enclosure is 70 for a Russian?

70 sounds a little high but as long as the substrate is properly moist the tort can probably find a suitable microclimate to sleep in. If your nights are usually this high I would consider adjusting your heat lamp timer to turn off earlier to give the enclosure more time to cool down for the night.

 

[dannylozano10]

Assuming the night time temperature doesn't drop below the 60's then there shouldn't be a problem with staying outside. Now if you're worried it might get too cold or may not be safe (night time predators or whatever) then there is nothing wrong with bringing it in for the night where you can keep it safe and happy.

For babies, because they can't regulate their moisture level as well, soakings are important. Some guides say to do a daily soaking for hatchlings and about every other day for juveniles. If the baby is still small I would probably aim for soaking about 5 times a week and gradually cut back by a day at a time when it seems big enough

I would suggest growing plants the tortoise can eat in it to go along with the food and water dish. It is also important for an outdoor enclosure to have access to plenty of sun as well as plenty of shady spots so the tortoise has it's choice of microclimates. Other then that it is personal preference and aesthetics.

a calcium block like a cuttlebone is great to have in the enclosure to go along with the powered calcium as the tortoise knows better then we do when it needs more calcium. It is not uncommon for a cuttlebone to go for weeks untouched and then almost disappear overnight so don't worry if the tort shows no interest in it for a while.

I have no clue, but since Tom is hibernating them I would ask him directly about what you need to do and when.

Sounds fine, I have seen suggested soaking times range from 10-20 min with luke-warm water.

Morning is a better choice then evening as the tortoise will use the basking area to help digest their food so morning lets them process the food during the day. I would also suggest having something edible in its enclosure (like timothy, orchard, or bermuda grass but not alfafa because it is to high in protein) so the tortoise can nibble on the grass if it wants.

I have no clue but I would think the best person to ask is your tortoises vet.

Your choice, ether is fine as long as it is warm enough outside. You may want to gently towel off your tortoise before returning it to the enclosure you choose.

70 sounds a little high but as long as the substrate is properly moist the tort can probably find a suitable microclimate to sleep in. If your nights are usually this high I would consider adjusting your heat lamp timer to turn off earlier to give the enclosure more time to cool down for the night.

Omg memy02 thanks soooo much I appreciate all of the feed back

 

[dannylozano10]

I would suggest growing plants the tortoise can eat in it to go along with the food and water dish.

Morning is a better choice then evening as the tortoise will use the basking area to help digest their food so morning lets them process the food during the day. I would also suggest having something edible in its enclosure (like timothy, orchard, or bermuda grass but not alfafa because it is to high in protein) so the tortoise can nibble on the grass if it wants.

Where is the best place to get those grasses to plant????

 

[Tom]

1.should I keep my tortoise that I'm getting inside all night for the first couple of weeks or should I leave him out?

2.is soaking a baby Russian 3 times a week too much?or too less?and is it to much for a adult Russian tortoise to be soaked 3 times a week?

3.what all should I have in my outdoor enclosure?(I have a hide,food/water dish)I am planning on building a underground getaway hide. But I feel it's still to plain.

4.is it ok to have a calcium block in his enclosure even when I'm giving him powered calcium on his food?and how many times a week should I give him the powered calcium?

5.when do I start the pre hybernation when it becomes that time of year?

6.is 15 minute soaks good enough?

7.what time of day should I feed him?im guessing when It's convenient for me right?(which is pretty much the morning time before school)

8.should I always have Neosporin on hand if there's any cuts or injures?or what ointment is safe and best?

9.when I get him after his first soak where should I put him in his indoor or outdoor enclosure?

10.is it ok if the night temp for a inside enclosure is 70 for a Russian?

thanks again!!!

1. Depends on the temperatures. If its warm enough day and night, and the enclosure is escape proof and predator proof, then you can leave him out. If not, bring him in.
2. 3 soaks a week is good for young ones. Soaking three times a week is probably more than an adult needs, but it won't hurt anything. Soaking every day won't hurt them.
3. Logs, big rocks, potted plants, multiple terra cotta water saucers sunk into the ground, Gnome statues, etc…
4. Twice a week on the powder while he is young and still growing. Once a week or once every other once he is 5-6 inches. Fine to leave the calcium block in there full time.
5. Usually late October or early November. I go by the weather and temps. I'll help you with this as fall approaches.
6. I prefer 20-30 minutes. If you are doing it often, then 15 minutes is fine.
7. Feed him in the morning. Russians are not grass eaters, so I would not leave any hay around because it will mold on your damp substrate. And alfalfa is good for them. The protein thing is an old myth.
8. Neosporin is fine, but you will probably not ever need it.
9. Depends on the weather. Its nice to have complete fully functional enclosure inside and out, so you can have them either place depending on the weather.
10. Yes. 70 is fine.

 

[dannylozano10]

1. Depends on the temperatures. If its warm enough day and night, and the enclosure is escape proof and predator proof, then you can leave him out. If not, bring him in.
2. 3 soaks a week is good for young ones. Soaking three times a week is probably more than an adult needs, but it won't hurt anything. Soaking every day won't hurt them.
3. Logs, big rocks, potted plants, multiple terra cotta water saucers sunk into the ground, Gnome statues, etc…
4. Twice a week on the powder while he is young and still growing. Once a week or once every other once he is 5-6 inches. Fine to leave the calcium block in there full time.
5. Usually late October or early November. I go by the weather and temps. I'll help you with this as fall approaches.
6. I prefer 20-30 minutes. If you are doing it often, then 15 minutes is fine.
7. Feed him in the morning. Russians are not grass eaters, so I would not leave any hay around because it will mold on your damp substrate. And alfalfa is good for them. The protein thing is an old myth.
8. Neosporin is fine, but you will probably not ever need it.
9. Depends on the weather. Its nice to have complete fully functional enclosure inside and out, so you can have them either place depending on the weather.
10. Yes. 70 is fine.

Thanks tom you really have helped me so much I appreciate it!!!

 

[dannylozano10]

Ok so if it ever rains should I bring it inside or can I leave it out as long as I have a underground hide for it??

 

[Tom]

Ok so if it ever rains should I bring it inside or can I leave it out as long as I have a underground hide for it??

As long as you build you hide so that it does not flood, they can stay outside in the rain.

Still, there is no harm in bringing them inside to their indoor enclosure if there is rain in the forecast. Its the safe bet for sure.

 

[dannylozano10]

As long as you build you hide so that it does not flood, they can stay outside in the rain.

Still, there is no harm in bringing them inside to their indoor enclosure if there is rain in the forecast. Its the safe bet for sure.

Oh ok yea then I will end up just bringing him/her in

 

[dannylozano10]

@Tom this is the one I have...so will this one work if I tape it on the side of the fridge where the tort will be?

 

[dannylozano10]

@Tom every time I turn it on it says different temps like it changes a lot

 

[dannylozano10]

Hey guys I've thought about it and want to know a answer to my substrate question...

1.ok so can I use cypress mulch instead of orchid bark?

2.is it cheaper than orchid bark?

3.where can I buy it from?

4.does it come in fine grade?

Thanks

 

[dannylozano10]

Hey guys more question(s)...anyways what is the safest,best,cheapest way to get rid of red fire ants and there pile from an outdoor enclosure?

 

[dannylozano10]

what is the best and easiest way to keep a fridge at a stable temp?