Could you possibly send a pic of their setup as well as their parameters such as temperature in the warn cool and middle areas as well as humidity level in each?
Ill have to get back with the temperatures. But what i am doing is, early morning, i turn on both warm and uvb and then after a few hours i turn of the warm lamp. Cause the uvb lamp more or less gives enough heat. At evening/night time i turn off the uvb and then the heater on for like 30mins/1hour. And then i turn it off.
They cant reach the heat lamp or the uvb one.
I kinda saved them from being put down, since they hated the fact they were hybrids. And the area they had before was half the size of what they got now. However, i am searching for a new job, and when i got a new fulltime job, ill move to a bigger apartment where they will get more space
The problem with small enclosure is that there just isn't enough room to make the micro climates that they need. They need a baking area directly under the light that reaches around 90-100 degrees. Then the overall temp should be about 80 and night temps should be about 75. Humidity should be around 70-80 but it cannot get below 75. Cool and damp equals one very sick turtles! Warm and damp equals happy turtles! Especially young turtles such ad these guys. I generally set up their water is then damp/ cool side and their basking in the dry/ Warm on the opposite side. With your little guys I would also be treating them twice a day for a week but make sure they spend a good amount of time dry.
Well, everyone does differently. I know there is a right way and a wrong way, but each person does things differently with their own idea of success. That's why when you go on the forums and sites and there is so much conflicting advice and you can get so confused. I don't have a hot side or a cool side. I only use a CHE and a long tube UVB. If they want to warm up they will sit under the CHE. If they want to get away from the "sun" UVB, they will dig under plants. I keep the whole enclosure at around 80 for babies and juveniles that are still in the house. The humidity is kept in the high 70's because the top of the enclosure is covered mostly with Plexiglas or clear wrapping tape. No bright lights, only the long tube UVB. Just how I do things, and as I've said I don't want to confuse you. If you're treating a fungus, I would keep them on paper towel until it's cleared up.
For box turtles kept indoors, I don't have micro climates either. I keep the whole habitat around 80F. There are many plants so the turtles can get away from the harsh lights. There is also a waterer big enough for them to get their whole body into.
oh i will have to look up F temperatures.
Do my water area have to be deeper? Or is it fine?
Btw, a new old question.
They more or less refuse to eat any kind of greens.
No matter how i make it.
Cut in tiny pieces, mixed with fish or anything. Maybe i should get something with a better smell? they however looove meat. But ii would prefer if they ate their greens too.
Try a strawberry chopped up and then add a tiny bit of greens. Or I start off with some ground venison ..I use Wellness dog food if I don't have the ground venison.....venison and sweet potato. Then I gradually add some greens or veggies.
I have two of them myself and the little guy eats more, and more of a variety. He eats more of the outlets and of the protein. While my older girl trends to eat more vegetables. I provide pellets constantly and fresh food early in the morning. I have noticed that they've been eating at night and alot of times can be rather food shy. If I'm watching they wont eat bit as soon as I walk away they're gobbling it all up! Little brats. As long as their aren't any other signs of illness, runny eyes, mouth gapeing, excessive yawning, ext, I wouldn't be too concerned. some turtles also only eat every other to every three days.