Sulcata hatchling enclosure- HELP

[erdavis]

Hey guys! I'm going to be receiving my sulcata hatchling soon and he'll be about 2-1/4 long when I get him. So I'm starting to think about what I'm going to be keeping him in while he's inside. Tell me what you think so far.

• I'm thinking about making it out of tinted plexiglass. I have heard that plexiglass keeps in heat and moisture good. But I have also heard that enclosures that they can see out of may be a problem bc they will keep trying to get out and ram their noses in the glass. Has this been a problem for you?

• I also am thinking of an enclosure of about 55" X 17.5". Does this sound reasonable for him? If so how long could he stay in here? I'm going to use a plastic shoe box for his hide. I know that for hatchlings their hide needs to be especially humid, how should I do this? I've heard of attaching a wet sponge to the top, will that work? I also using this idea for a humidifier. http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-Squirt-Shenanigans-Picture-Update#axzz1dYpQQwhW and will do daily mistings as well.

• I am going to use the saucer things that go under pots for his water dish.

• I plan on using 50/50 coconut fiber and organic topsoil for his substrate.

• I am not placing any plants in his enclosure. However I plan to bring my little guy outside for at least an hour a day and keeping him in a kiddiepool, and am planning on planting in this. Has anyone used sulcatafood seed mix? If so, how many packets do you think I'll need? I am worried there may not be enough dandelion seeds in it and want lots! Also, I plan on having a prickly pear cactus(minus the prickly of course!), should I plant from a seed or a pad?

• How often should I feed my hatchling? I have heard to feed every day but also have heard every other day.

• One last thing(that I can think of for now), I do not plan on using a UVB light in his enclosure bc I believe he will get enough outside, but what would I use to heat up enclosure? I plan to only have my enclosure a foot tall to keep humidity level high, so I think I need a lower watt bulb so I don't burn them, but not sure how low. Oh and I plan on using this thermometer. http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-Wireless-Remote-Thermometer#axzz1czVLIJQf

Any help or advice would be great. And I'm very good with taking in criticism so go for it!

 

[cemmons12]

I always feed everyday. Also an hour a day of sun is not enough for uvb. You need the light. It will put off heat and you can get a black or red light for night time. This is what I do, and my temps are always fine.

 

[erdavis]

I always feed everyday. Also an hour a day of sun is not enough for uvb. You need the light. It will put off heat and you can get a black or red light for night time. This is what I do, and my temps are always fine.

So during the day I will have just the UVB light on, and then at night I will have just the black light on? Is that correct?
Also I am worried about over feeding him. Will he stop eating when he is full? Or should I only put a certain amount in his enclosure?

 

[wildponey21]

no you need to keep the cage between 90 to 95 under the light and the rest should be 80 to 85. Yuo need a uvb uva blub like zoo med and the heat lamp needs to be on all the time. if it is warm were you you can take him out but you have stay out there. Also have read any books on them? They can get to 200 pounds for males and 80 to 100 for females. They dig big holes and will ripe there indoor housing apart. in 5 to 8 years he will be at least 25 pounds. I have two they are 1 year old but i know what they will do. they eat alot like a horse. they are grass eaters no fruit or dog or cat food high fiber low protein.

 

[jaizei]

• It depends on the tortoise, some will try to walk through the glass, some don't. If you have a problem, you can always put something (paper, etc.) on the outside to block the view.
  
  
• I prefer having wider enclosures, usually 24" or so, more room to work with. Depending on growth rate, you might get 2 years out of it. You can also use damp moss in the hides.
  
  
• I don't know about the packets but I bought a pound of seed from a different site and it lasted quite a while. Cactus is best grown from pad. Growing from seeds will take a while before you have any pads to start feeding. Or you can do both and have a few pads sooner and a bunch later when he's bigger.
  
• I feed daily. A large handful in the morning, more in the afternoon if they eat it all. Adjust based on how much they eat. When they're outside they eat as much grass, etc. as they want.
  
• An hour outside in the sun daily should provide plenty of UVB. You can use a regular basking lamp during the day and a ceramic heat emitter should work for heat at night. I keep the cool end in the low 80*s and a hotspot under the basking light around 100*.

 

[Tom]

I was all set to share my thoughts on this and then I read jaizei's answer. I couldn't agree more.

I would only add that I like a regular incandescent or MVB on a 12 hour timer for day and a CHE on a thermostat for day and night. If its warm enough it will just stay off. If the temps drop too low, day or night, it will kick on. I agree, and want to emphasize, that an hour of sunshine a day is plenty and you should not need any artificial UV.

The bigger the better on the enclosure size. Some of them outgrow a 100 gallon (5'x18") in a year. Others can stay in a 40 gallon for two. I have been using glass tanks for 20 years with sulcatas and never once had a problem with them rubbing their snouts on the glass.

 

[erdavis]

I was all set to share my thoughts on this and then I read jaizei's answer. I couldn't agree more.

I would only add that I like a regular incandescent or MVB on a 12 hour timer for day and a CHE on a thermostat for day and night. If its warm enough it will just stay off. If the temps drop too low, day or night, it will kick on. I agree, and want to emphasize, that an hour of sunshine a day is plenty and you should not need any artificial UV.

The bigger the better on the enclosure size. Some of them outgrow a 100 gallon (5'x18") in a year. Others can stay in a 40 gallon for two. I have been using glass tanks for 20 years with sulcatas and never once had a problem with them rubbing their snouts on the glass.

I'm not completely clear on how the CHE works. I know you have to get a thermometer for it to regulate the enclosure. I've seen that you often recommend the AcuRite wireless remote thermometer. Will this work for the CHE?

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Oh and I will be doing some furniture rearrangements in my house tomorrow to find a place for a bigger enclosure.

 

[Laura]

CHE = Ceramic heat Emitter . there is no light.. it can be on day and night if you want.. but its just heat.