Shell Shape on Redfoot Rescue

[bluewolf85]

I rescued this little girl back in November who had pneumonia and was not eating for over 2 months, was only 190 grams and wasn't using her legs very well. Thanks to my wonderful vet and some better husbandry we've gotten her back to eating and now she's a healthy 280ish grams (she goes between 280-300 grams) and running around like a happy little tort. We are still working on her eating habits as she mostly only likes mazuri pellets but she's expanded her menu to various greens if chopped tiny and mixed with mazuri, squash baby food, bananas, strawberries, mango, blueberries, raspberries, clover sprouts and some rare simple protein cat food (we are trying to get her to try a different protein still - haven't been able to try eggs yet due to the shortage).
My question is really about her shell. Is it normal? I think she may be approx 1.5 -2 years old (?) and I'm worried she developed some mild to moderate MBD before I got her, not enough to develop a soft shell but her scoots almost look indented and she's not totally smooth but not pyramiding. I'm a seasoned reptile keeper (and I work as a nurse for an exotic veterinarian) but this is actually my first tort.

 

[ZEROPILOT]

I think that the raised growth areas with sunken scutes and also the stance of the legs probably indicate MBD. (The legs should be under the tortoise and be able to fully lift the body up as he walks.) A MBD diagnosis would take x rays and blood work to confirm. I'm just theorizing here due to previous experience mixed with your history information.
Is he or she now getting UVB from the sun or from a T5 HO UVB Linear tube florescent UVB light?
MBD damage can't be reversed. But it can be stopped and the bones, etc can re harden.
Also, how and where is he/she being kept? I just see what looks like house carpeting. Roaming around the house is a very bad and dangerous idea. A RF needs a large, warm (80 to 88 degrees) and humid (70% and up) closed chamber enclosure.
I'm not aware of any other members attempting to keep a Redfoot in Alaska. Redfoot are a tropical species. Their requirements are pretty unique.
I'm interested to see what others think of the shell.

Welcome to the forum!

 

[bluewolf85]

I think that the raised growth areas with sunken scutes and also the stance of the legs probably indicate MBD. (The legs should be under the tortoise and be able to fully lift the body up as he walks.) A MBD diagnosis would take x rays and blood work to confirm. I'm just theorizing here due to previous experience mixed with your history information.
Is he or she now getting UVB from the sun or from a T5 HO UVB Linear tube florescent UVB light?
MBD damage can't be reversed. But it can be stopped and the bones, etc can re harden.
Also, how and where is he/she being kept? I just see what looks like house carpeting. Roaming around the house is a very bad and dangerous idea. A RF needs a large, warm (80 to 88 degrees) and humid (70% and up) closed chamber enclosure.
I'm not aware of any other members attempting to keep a Redfoot in Alaska. Redfoot are a tropical species. Their requirements are pretty unique.
I'm interested to see what others think of the shell.

Welcome to the forum!

Thank you for your input on the MBD! I also agree her stance is incorrect still but she has been showing great improvement . They were almost dragging behind her when I first received her and they did not have nearly the strength in them that she has now. She was also on the brink of getting a feeding tube placed because of the state she was in when I agreed to take her but with such great improvements her veterinarian has not recommended bloodwork or radiographs at this time since the treatment would be the same.
Her current enclosure is not perfect at the moment due to some personal bad luck and medical problems that are finally resolving. I have her in a small outdoor pond plastic container with coco coir/bark mix substrate, lots of sphagnum moss , a flat rock or 2 for her to get some exercise and eat on, a large terracotta plant bottom for her soaking pool, and I've planted her some clovers in a corner of her substrate which she has recently discovered are good for snacking on. She is sprayed twice daily and bathed once or twice daily in a closed container to get her as much humidity as possible. For heat and lighting I momentarily have a fluorescent T8 UVB and 2 CHE , her temps in her enclosure range from 70-95 degrees and she tends to hang out where it's in the 80's. The UVB is a leftover with a new bulb from a few years ago when my chameleon passed away from old age (8yo female veiled chameleon).
As soon as I get some money I'm upgrading lighting to a T5 HO fluorescent and buying a small greenhouse cover so she will have an enclosed house with consistent humidity. I will also either buy a humidifier/fogger or install my mist king system (also from my old cham) onto her new enclosure.
And LOL yeah, Alaska is not the ideal place to own a tortoise and she was VERY unplanned. Our summer's rarely even get up above 65 to 70 degrees so I will have to figure out to get her some outside time in the sun. If anyone else has raised a tort in a northern state I would love some tips!
PS: I am just starting to allow her outside her enclosure in the house for some exercise and enrichment but she is supervised VERY CLOSELY

 

[ZEROPILOT]

The moss will eventually be an issue. It sucks that it's so good at holding in moisture. Because it's also a dangerous impaction risk if/when the tortoise eats some of it. The stories are plentiful of tortoises getting serious impactions from moss. It can't be digested. And is difficult to pass.
Redfoot is a species without high UVB needs. And T8 is what we used to use in the hobby. But the tube has to be very fresh and no more than 6 to 8 inches away to be helpful. Especially since this guy is likely recovering from MBD.
Prolonged 70° will cause health issues. And 90° is very uncomfortable for a Redfoot.
Instead of misting or spraying (I also currently have Chameleons) Redfoot for better in a Closed Chamber Enclosure. They hold in warmth. And give off humidity as the water poured into the substrate is evaporated.