Well, the fact of the matter is that what most young leopards do in the wild is die. And from a variety of reasons. Zoo animals live a longer life than their wild counterparts. Captivity doesn't necessarily mean that it is worse than the wild.
yagyujubei said:Well, the fact of the matter is that what most young leopards do in the wild is die. And from a variety of reasons. Zoo animals live a longer life than their wild counterparts. Captivity doesn't necessarily mean that it is worse than the wild.
Tom said:Let's see some pics and growth charts for leopards that have been raised with lower humidity levels and night temps in the 60s.
Tortus said:Well they appear very smooth for leopards of that age compared to other pics I've seen. I saw some six month olds for sale from Vicki (tortoiseyard I believe) and they were definitely pyramided.
What are your opinions on humidity and temperature? I'm trying to gather all the info I can while mine is still young. This is the first and possibly the last leopard I will ever have (until the addiction kicks in anyway), and I'd like to get it right.
GeoTerraTestudo said:And like I said, minimal pyramiding is found even in wild leopard tortoises.
Neal said:This is true. There is a debate that the supposed wild leopards were once raised captive, then released and that's why pyramiding is seen in the wild. Of course there is no way to tell conclusively that a pyramided leopard walking around in the wild was once captive...so it's a difficult debate to have. I personally don't think it's probable that all of the pyramided tortoise observed were at one time captives, but it is possible I suppose.
wellington said:Neal's leopards, although beautiful and healthy, in his words, has a slight raising of the scutes and is going back to humidity to figure things out(sorry Neal if I got that wrong)
DesertGrandma said:So, you ask "what is optimal care?" That is the point of this thread. There is not any clear definition yet, just speculation based on each person's experience..
wellington said:Tortus, are you clear on what you want to do? Here it is kinda spelled out. Tom has smooth healthy leopards. Neal's leopards, although beautiful and healthy, in his words, has a slight raising of the scutes and is going back to humidity to figure things out(sorry Neal if I got that wrong) A higher humidity of 80 with low temps, 65-70 will probably give you a sick tort. The high temps, 80 and the high humidity, 80 is easy to do and works. I know what I would do, oh ya, already do it, the 80 and 80. I have a smooth growing tort now, after a bad advice beginning and has never been sick. Toms way works, it's easy, it's spelled out, he has proof.