Not sleeping in hide

PiL71

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5 Year Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
59
Location (City and/or State)
Massachusetts
I’ve been concerned for a while now that my Russian isn’t sleeping in his hide, he sleeps right next to his basking rock... is this a behavior to be concerned about?
 

Minority2

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Joined
Jul 30, 2018
Messages
1,052
Location (City and/or State)
Tortoise Hell
Picture(s) of your enclosure, lighting, and various setups will all be helpful.

1. What are your 4 temperature zones? Basking spot, warm side, cool side, overnight low cool side?

2. Where is the hide location? Which part of the enclosure?

3. Where is the basking stone located? Which part of the enclosure?

4. What device are you using to measure temperature and humidity levels?

5. What is the tortoise's age?

6. Where was this tortoise purchased from?

7. What is the dimensions of the enclosure he or she is currently in?
 

PiL71

Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
59
Location (City and/or State)
Massachusetts
Picture(s) of your enclosure, lighting, and various setups will all be helpful.

1. What are your 4 temperature zones? Basking spot, warm side, cool side, overnight low cool side?

2. Where is the hide location? Which part of the enclosure?

3. Where is the basking stone located? Which part of the enclosure?

4. What device are you using to measure temperature and humidity levels?

5. What is the tortoise's age?

6. Where was this tortoise purchased from?

7. What is the dimensions of the enclosure he or she is currently in?

1&4: Don’t know/have one. I take it I should get one ASAP?
2: Hide is a half log on the opposite end of basking stones and light. light is both required bulbs built into one.
3: Across from the hide, next to his water dish
5: 5 years from what I can tell, he had a previous owner and the employee said that was the most likely age for his size (abt 4-5 inches). (Don’t know how accurate that is, i’ve had him since july 3 2018. He used to use his hide for the 1 week before I had him in a proper enc. Before, he was in a 20 gal long (only one week though)) He used his hide like a boss when he was in the 20.
6: Jabberwock Reptiles. Winchester, Massachusetts
7: 4x2x1.5. I’m upgrading within the month (NOV)
 

PiL71

Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
59
Location (City and/or State)
Massachusetts
Picture(s) of your enclosure, lighting, and various setups will all be helpful.

1. What are your 4 temperature zones? Basking spot, warm side, cool side, overnight low cool side?

2. Where is the hide location? Which part of the enclosure?

3. Where is the basking stone located? Which part of the enclosure?

4. What device are you using to measure temperature and humidity levels?

5. What is the tortoise's age?

6. Where was this tortoise purchased from?

7. What is the dimensions of the enclosure he or she is currently in?


IMG_1540949315.657819.jpg
IMG_1540949344.414196.jpg
 

PiL71

Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
59
Location (City and/or State)
Massachusetts
Picture(s) of your enclosure, lighting, and various setups will all be helpful.

1. What are your 4 temperature zones? Basking spot, warm side, cool side, overnight low cool side?

2. Where is the hide location? Which part of the enclosure?

3. Where is the basking stone located? Which part of the enclosure?

4. What device are you using to measure temperature and humidity levels?

5. What is the tortoise's age?

6. Where was this tortoise purchased from?

7. What is the dimensions of the enclosure he or she is currently in?

Also what thermometer should I be using (purchasing from Amazon, or should I go to Petco?) Model name and normal price appreciated.
 

Minority2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2018
Messages
1,052
Location (City and/or State)
Tortoise Hell
The pet shop that resold this tortoise did not prepare you to house him or her properly. To save time, just ignore everything taught by them and follow the care sheet guidelines stated in the threads linked below:
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

1. You enclosure is most likely too cold during the day and night. This may be why your tortoise is always close to or near the basking spot. Your single bulb setup is not enough.

2. Measuring devices: buy 1x infrared temperature gun, and 1x digital food/weather branded thermometer and hygrometer reader with probe.

3. You have an adult Russian. A tortoise that size requires at least an 8' x 4' ft enclosure.

4. How high is the substrate level? How many inches from the bottom of the enclosure?

5. What type of bulb are you using? Please be specific. Is this a bulb that supplies UV(B) and heat or just heat?

6. How cold does it get at night? Do you have anything to measure the temperature levels around you?
 

PiL71

Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
59
Location (City and/or State)
Massachusetts
The pet shop that resold this tortoise did not prepare you to house him or her properly. To save time, just ignore everything taught by them and follow the care sheet guidelines stated in the threads linked below:
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

1. You enclosure is most likely too cold during the day and night. This may be why your tortoise is always close to or near the basking spot. Your single bulb setup is not enough.

2. Measuring devices: buy 1x infrared temperature gun, and 1x digital food/weather branded thermometer and hygrometer reader with probe.

3. You have an adult Russian. A tortoise that size requires at least an 8' x 4' ft enclosure.

4. How high is the substrate level? How many inches from the bottom of the enclosure?

5. What type of bulb are you using? Please be specific. Is this a bulb that supplies UV(B) and heat or just heat?

6. How cold does it get at night? Do you have anything to measure the temperature levels around you?

1: What can I do to fix this?
2: Ok thank you.
3: Like I said I’m upgrading before December
4: Substrate is about 4-6 inches above bottom of enc.
5: Heat and UVB
6: It’s room temp at night, we have heat going since it’s fall/winter where I am. If I was to guess, 75*F both day and night. His basking rock is two bricks pushed together (does this matter at all?) because he just pushes around anything other than that. I have a front flap that I built into the enclosure, should I re close the flap? It’s open rn. (Id insert plexiglas into top flap to give viewers a better see.)
 

Minority2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2018
Messages
1,052
Location (City and/or State)
Tortoise Hell
1: What can I do to fix this?
2: Ok thank you.
3: Like I said I’m upgrading before December
4: Substrate is about 4-6 inches above bottom of enc.
5: Heat and UVB
6: It’s room temp at night, we have heat going since it’s fall/winter where I am. If I was to guess, 75*F both day and night. His basking rock is two bricks pushed together (does this matter at all?) because he just pushes around anything other than that. I have a front flap that I built into the enclosure, should I re close the flap? It’s open rn. (Id insert plexiglas into top flap to give viewers a better see.)

The home/room heating system may not be effective enough to reach your open enclosure which is on the ground level. The easiest solution is to convert or build a closed chamber style enclosure. And yes, even adult Russians benefit from being housed in a closed chamber enclosure. That's the best solution to retain heat during the night with minimal electricity use.

First buy the measuring devices as soon as possible. This is essential for tortoise/reptile care.

Build/convert an enclosure to a closed chamber. You may require either a ceramic heat emitter or a reptile basics heating panel to keep your enclosure above 65-60F during the night. While adult Russians can handle lower temperatures, some members have claimed that slighly higher night temperatures will help prevent adult Russians from being lethargic during the mornings.

I also do not recommend using a mercury vapor bulb, even for an adult Russian. The reason is because these type of bulbs will suck the moisture out of a tortoise much faster than much cheaper alternatives such as an incandescent flood bulb.

A setup composed of 1x incandescent flood basking bulb and 1-2x (depending on the length of the enclosure) linear florescent UV(B) reptile rated bulb will be more effective and cheaper to replace.

I also suggest replacing that lamp fixture as well. Those plastic things won't last. A 10.5 inch brooder lamp fixture from your local hardware store will be cheap and much more durable. In a closed chamber setup a wide diameter lamp fixture will be more useful than a smaller diameter dome lamp fixture.
 

PiL71

Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
59
Location (City and/or State)
Massachusetts
The home/room heating system may not be effective enough to reach your open enclosure which is on the ground level. The easiest solution is to convert or build a closed chamber style enclosure. And yes, even adult Russians benefit from being housed in a closed chamber enclosure. That's the best solution to retain heat during the night with minimal electricity use.

First buy the measuring devices as soon as possible. This is essential for tortoise/reptile care.

Build/convert an enclosure to a closed chamber. You may require either a ceramic heat emitter or a reptile basics heating panel to keep your enclosure above 65-60F during the night. While adult Russians can handle lower temperatures, some members have claimed that slighly higher night temperatures will help prevent adult Russians from being lethargic during the mornings.

I also do not recommend using a mercury vapor bulb, even for an adult Russian. The reason is because these type of bulbs will suck the moisture out of a tortoise much faster than much cheaper alternatives such as an incandescent flood bulb.

A setup composed of 1x incandescent flood basking bulb and 1-2x (depending on the length of the enclosure) linear florescent UV(B) reptile rated bulb will be more effective and cheaper to replace.

I also suggest replacing that lamp fixture as well. Those plastic things won't last. A 10.5 inch brooder lamp fixture from your local hardware store will be cheap and much more durable. In a closed chamber setup a wide diameter lamp fixture will be more useful than a smaller diameter dome lamp fixture.

Can you elaborate on what you mean by a ‘closed chamber’? I’m going to bed so i won’t reply for a few hours. Also; the lamp’s hood is metallic and the white thing is ceramic. Thanks b
 

Minority2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2018
Messages
1,052
Location (City and/or State)
Tortoise Hell
Can you elaborate on what you mean by a ‘closed chamber’? I’m going to bed so i won’t reply for a few hours. Also; the lamp’s hood is metallic and the white thing is ceramic. Thanks b

Let me correct myself. The lamp fixture you have is small and ineffective in large spaces. For the price, a hardware store brooder style lamp fixture will likely be a far better value.

A closed chamber styled enclosure is a one piece of multi piece design where the entire enclosure is mostly sealed off. Unlike an open enclosure, a closed chamber style enclosure doesn't easily allow air, heat, and humidity to escape freely from large exposed gaps.

Some example threads containing closed chamber designs:
https://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/closed-chambers.32333/
https://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/show-off-your-closed-chamber-enclosure.87356/page-3
 
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