What do less than handy people do that need a shelter built? I need one but I need it to look nice. I know I will not be able accomplish that. Any ideas?
Night box/heated shelter
- Thread starter voodoochild
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How big? How about buyong either a wood dog house or a shed? Tom's night boxes are fairly easy and he pretty much has step by step.
I was looking at this one. Does seem kind of easy I just don't think I could get mine as flush. I don't need it too big. I think 2'x3' would work. I have 1.2 redfoots now. I guess I need to find a handyman and show him that thread.
Look for Heathers @Team Gomberg threads on the one she built. I think you can do it.
This one? It looks easy. Maybe I should try it.
I copied mine based on Tom's. I'm a stay at home mom...if I can do it, you can do it! LOL
And it even looks purdy
Mine is 4'x2' and 2'tall. The doorway is 12"x12" and it works well for my single 10" leopard. Multiple redfoots would probably need the 4x4 size.
And it even looks purdy
Mine is 4'x2' and 2'tall. The doorway is 12"x12" and it works well for my single 10" leopard. Multiple redfoots would probably need the 4x4 size.
That's another one of mine
but this one wasn't heated
This dog house is only $130. Has anyone ever seen someone convert a dog house to a heated tort shelter? Seems like it would be easier and look better than something I could build.
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That seems like it would work. You may be able to convert it
Here are the issues that jump out at be with that house..
It's not insulated
The doorway is too tall and will let heat escape.
By the time you invest more$ into it to make it tort applicable you'd have down much more than if you build it from scratch.
My 2 cents...
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You can also buy a ready made, insulated dog house (some can be knocked down for shipping). Here's an example by Deer Creek (Lifesaver dog houses):
http://www.deer-creek.org/page7
These dog houses have an aluminum outer cover so I would think they are rat chew proof. They can customized to meet tortoises' needs, for example, add a locking door (hinged or sliding), waterproof the inside, insulate the floor too, add a cord slot for a hound heater or reptile radiant heat panel, different outer color, lower the front door ramp height, a door canopy for rain, mechanism to prop the lid open during hot days, change the house dimensions, etc.
They have posted lots of photos on their Facebook page, Houndsmen Deluxe/Uplander Products (can view without signing into FB):
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Houn...3862380868?sk=photos_stream&tab=photos_albums
One of their houses with a sliding, locking door:
https://www.facebook.com/1430338623...0.1436380038./323175581033361/?type=3&theater
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I'm basically in the same climate.
Dog house with rubber flap to keep out the breeze and a simple black light 60 watt bulb on a timer.
I like the black bulb better than a CHE because it lets me see a very faint purple glow at night to let me know it's on at a distance.
The lid lifts clean off of this dog house.
Its also got another plug and another hook for my CHE for extra cool nights of less than 50 degrees.
Dog house with rubber flap to keep out the breeze and a simple black light 60 watt bulb on a timer.
I like the black bulb better than a CHE because it lets me see a very faint purple glow at night to let me know it's on at a distance.
The lid lifts clean off of this dog house.
Its also got another plug and another hook for my CHE for extra cool nights of less than 50 degrees.
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Zeropilot, how cold does it get down there or how cold can it get before you'd need to bring them in? Winter here brings a few nights where it can get down to 30*F. Do you think it would stay above 60*F inside the dog house?
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Luckily, I have a "sun Room" enclosed porch on the back of the house. In the dog house, the bulb can ad about 6 degrees. The CHE more than 10 degrees. But below 50, they all come inside. Every year I have to make a winter night box setup. It's a real pain.
50s wont kill them and if I didn't have the option I'd leave them outside and lock them in the dog house. It never really gets any colder than 45 or so.
Actually, I'm not sure that all four of mine would actually fit inside the doghouse.
50s wont kill them and if I didn't have the option I'd leave them outside and lock them in the dog house. It never really gets any colder than 45 or so.
Actually, I'm not sure that all four of mine would actually fit inside the doghouse.
We have winter nights in the 20's here on occasion. My boxes hold 80 and use a minimum of electricity to do it.
Dog houses are designed for dogs, not tortoises. I wish I cold just buy something suitable instead of investing the time to build these things all the time, but I have not found anything that works well.
I don't like incandescent light bulbs for heating these shelters for two reasons:
1. They burn out early and often. If you check it at 10pm before retiring to bed, and the bulb burns out at 10:05, your tortoise is going to have a very cold night if outside temps are in the 30s. My boxes are very well insulated and sealed, so they will hold in the heat longer, and the heating elements that I use and recommend last longer and are much more reliable than light bulbs.
2. They tend to slow burn the very top of the carapace in larger tortoises and yet not produce enough heat to warm the bottom of the tortoise on a cold winter night in a dog house or plastic shed.
I started out using igloos, dog houses and plastic sheds, light bulbs and CHEs years ago. None of it was ideal, so I came up with things that worked better. My newer styles of doing it suit our tortoise much better.
Dog houses are designed for dogs, not tortoises. I wish I cold just buy something suitable instead of investing the time to build these things all the time, but I have not found anything that works well.
I don't like incandescent light bulbs for heating these shelters for two reasons:
1. They burn out early and often. If you check it at 10pm before retiring to bed, and the bulb burns out at 10:05, your tortoise is going to have a very cold night if outside temps are in the 30s. My boxes are very well insulated and sealed, so they will hold in the heat longer, and the heating elements that I use and recommend last longer and are much more reliable than light bulbs.
2. They tend to slow burn the very top of the carapace in larger tortoises and yet not produce enough heat to warm the bottom of the tortoise on a cold winter night in a dog house or plastic shed.
I started out using igloos, dog houses and plastic sheds, light bulbs and CHEs years ago. None of it was ideal, so I came up with things that worked better. My newer styles of doing it suit our tortoise much better.
I took Tom's advice and have never regretted it. I figured, he already did enough trial and error with heated houses, why go through it myself?
This tort house is so wonderful. It keeps the 80° temperatures even during the cold winter here in southern Oregon. AND with no extra cost to my electric bill! Ya that's right...this thing is so efficient that the first few months I used it, my electric bill was actually less. LOL
You gotta do the fixings though. Weather stripping, insulation, door flaps and an even heat source. I use the mini oil filled radiator and set it up with a thermostat.
It was worth the build in every way!
Here is my 4x2x2 heated tort house. I literally went through Tom's thread and wrote down the steps and my notes. I made my own dimensions, figured out my supplies and got to work. I used a circular saw? It's hand held and a circle spinning blade. I used a drill and...well that's it I think.
Caulked all cracks, painted the outside, laid sticky vinyl flooring on the inside and ta-da!
You really can't go wrong with this build. I still want to give Tom thumbs up for sharing the design. His detailed thread made it possible for me to do it.
Because it's been so hot (like 108) I lowered the thermostat temp to 73.
I like the acurite temperature gauge because it gives me current temp/humidity as well as 24hr highs and lows.
You can see my thermostat probe behind it.
Caulked all cracks, painted the outside, laid sticky vinyl flooring on the inside and ta-da!
You really can't go wrong with this build. I still want to give Tom thumbs up for sharing the design. His detailed thread made it possible for me to do it.
Because it's been so hot (like 108) I lowered the thermostat temp to 73.
I like the acurite temperature gauge because it gives me current temp/humidity as well as 24hr highs and lows.
You can see my thermostat probe behind it.
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Tom's and Heather's night boxes are fantastic, but there's one problem with them - they are not available to purchase ready made! (op's question)
I am a bit surprised that nobody on this forum has started a business building good quality, shippable night boxes. Maybe a knock down version for easier shipping.
(op's question)I am a bit surprised that nobody on this forum has started a business building good quality, shippable night boxes. Maybe a knock down version for easier shipping.
These things weigh a lot! I can't image the shipping prices!!Tom's and Heather's night boxes are fantastic, but there's one problem with them - they are not available to purchase ready made!
I am a bit surprised that nobody on this forum has started a business building good quality, shippable night boxes. Maybe a knock down version for easier shipping.
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Good point about a bulb failing. Luckily in my situation, no matter the weather a tortoise won't die from our mild cold. I don't even allow them to be uncomfortable.
If I were in a colder area the insulation and better thought out heating would all be required.
I have just the opposite right now. I've hung a small fan in there to make things cool...and they seem to like it.
If I were in a colder area the insulation and better thought out heating would all be required.
I have just the opposite right now. I've hung a small fan in there to make things cool...and they seem to like it.
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