New Red Foot owner with some questions

[tortoisebro]

Hey guys! I'm not entirely new to tortoises, but I'm new to Red Foots. I do not have a name for her but i adopted "Her" a week ago now (last friday i think?") anyway I'm keeping her in a 40 something inch long tub that's probably around half the length wide. Over half of it I have a piece of plexi glass to help keep some heat and humidity in and over the other I have a ten gal tank screen lid sitting ontop to support the 60 watt light i have for her. It's 90ish in the hot spot and 75-80 in the cool spot with an ambient humidity that travels between 70 and 90. She has 3 inches of top soil with a layer of moss then some leaf litter on top. I have a cork bark hide that goes into the soil around the middle (hot end on extreme right and cool end on the other). I have a water dish large enough for her to get into and a clean piece of slate (for food) that I put right around the middle as well. She's just coming out on her own now.. but she still hasn't eaten much. I've tried spring mix, dandelion greens, mango, squash, apple and mealworms. So far she's tried taking bits of the spring mix and a bite or two of mango but she's eaten two mealworms. She's about 2/3 the size of my hand or so ( so 3 inches?). What am I missing, what can I add, is she just not eating much because of how new she is, what can I do to spoil this bundle of cuteness. I've searched and researched this forum, others and many websites before coming here to post.. i almost just need to hear some critiquing first hand

--- Thanks in advance! Martin

 

[theelectraco]

What type of UVB light do you have for your new tortoise?

 

[wellington]

Hello and Welcome everything sounds pretty good. They do need a higher humidity, so would be best to get a gauge so you can keep tabs on that too. Also, some plants, edible or fake would help her feel more secure. Be sure to soak her every couple days in warm water for 20-30 minutes. Be sure not to hover over her when she is eating. It may make her stop until she gets used to you. Pics of her and the enclosure would be nice. We love pics

 

[tortoisebro]

What type of UVB light do you have for your new tortoise?

I currently do not. From what i've been reading UVB lighting isn't a "must" with these species as they are edge of forest/in forest species, hide a lot as young and get most of the D3 they need from their diet (meats and the occasional supplement in captivity). I understand the controversy on this topic

Hello and Welcome everything sounds pretty good. They do need a higher humidity, so would be best to get a gauge so you can keep tabs on that too. Also, some plants, edible or fake would help her feel more secure. Be sure to soak her every couple days in warm water for 20-30 minutes. Be sure not to hover over her when she is eating. It may make her stop until she gets used to you. Pics of her and the enclosure would be nice. We love pics

will try to later tonight! Thanks to my school and work, i don't get much time to hover over her anyway haha

 

[Madkins007]

What type of UVB light do you have for your new tortoise?

I currently do not. From what i've been reading UVB lighting isn't a "must" with these species as they are edge of forest/in forest species, hide a lot as young and get most of the D3 they need from their diet (meats and the occasional supplement in captivity). I understand the controversy on this topic
(snip)

The idea that forest tortoises do not need D3 is based on some really flawed theories. Most red-footed tortoises are not, in fact, found in deep forest but instead are considered a savannah species in most of their habitat. Even when found in heavy forest, they tend to frequent the edge habitats. There is also no real evidence that 'they get most of their D3 from their diet' since most of their native foods are rather low in it.

However, whether they 'need' D3 or not, they certainly benefit from it.

 

[tortoisebro]

What type of UVB light do you have for your new tortoise?

I currently do not. From what i've been reading UVB lighting isn't a "must" with these species as they are edge of forest/in forest species, hide a lot as young and get most of the D3 they need from their diet (meats and the occasional supplement in captivity). I understand the controversy on this topic
(snip)

The idea that forest tortoises do not need D3 is based on some really flawed theories. Most red-footed tortoises are not, in fact, found in deep forest but instead are considered a savannah species in most of their habitat. Even when found in heavy forest, they tend to frequent the edge habitats. There is also no real evidence that 'they get most of their D3 from their diet' since most of their native foods are rather low in it.

However, whether they 'need' D3 or not, they certainly benefit from it.

I'll be sure to pick up a long tub of some sort (5.0 is what i'm reading) next time I have the chance. Other than that, anything else that could be improved?

 

[Loganmister6]

Hey man I know not a lot of people decide to take their animals to the vet but the information that you learn from just a brief conversation cannot have a price put on it. Also, knowing your tortoise is healthy is a big weight lifted off your shoulders.

Bedding- Cypress mulch. They love it. Plain and simple.

Veggies- Mustard greens, collard greens, endives, Romaine. No Ice burg Lettuce.

Fruits- Mine loves raspberries, tomatoes, mango, bananas, cactus fruit, cactus pads.

Fiber- Make sure you provide an everyday meal of timothy hay or Natural Forest Tortoise Mash which can be picked at Petsmart. *Should be fed everyday* They love their fiber. Plus it makes your job a alot easier because their poop wont be watery and it will be easy to clean out.

Lighting- I have an adult red foot male and I use an 75 watt heat bulb and an 60 watt uvb/uva light. *Necessary for proper shell growth*
-Night lighting- I use a 75 watt infrared bulb. It works just fine.

Light cycle- 12 light/12 dark.

A very helpful link. I found it very interesting so give it a thourough reading.
http://redfoottortoise.com/redfoot_tortoise_diet.htm

Any other questions just PM me.

 

[tortoisebro]

Hey man I know not a lot of people decide to take their animals to the vet but the information that you learn from just a brief conversation cannot have a price put on it. Also, knowing your tortoise is healthy is a big weight lifted off your shoulders.

--i plan on taking her one soon, just because

Bedding- Cypress mulch. They love it. Plain and simple.

--Is the top soil fine? I've been using it with a mix of sand with my russian and they seem to do fine. Now I don't have sand mixed in with my red foot's

Veggies- Mustard greens, collard greens, endives, Romaine. No Ice burg Lettuce.

--feeding her spring mix, kale, watercress and arugala

Fruits- Mine loves raspberries, tomatoes, mango, bananas, cactus fruit, cactus pads.

--i've tried mangos with her. I thought bananas and tomatoes weren't the best for them?

Fiber- Make sure you provide an everyday meal of timothy hay or Natural Forest Tortoise Mash which can be picked at Petsmart. *Should be fed everyday* They love their fiber. Plus it makes your job a alot easier because their poop wont be watery and it will be easy to clean out.

--I'll try the mash. But she ignores the hay

Lighting- I have an adult red foot male and I use an 75 watt heat bulb and an 60 watt uvb/uva light. *Necessary for proper shell growth*
-Night lighting- I use a 75 watt infrared bulb. It works just fine.

Light cycle- 12 light/12 dark.

 

-- I need to get her a night light. My reptile/tarantula room rarely dips below 73 at night though.. so idk.

A very helpful link. I found it very interesting so give it a thourough reading.
http://redfoottortoise.com/redfoot_tortoise_diet.htm

--I'll take a look at it!

 

[Loganmister6]

Also Fake plants aren't the best Idea. They are very active and explores and love to sample new greens. You wouldn't want a tortoise ingesting plastic right?? Also, If a tortoise is kept on dirt and sand for too long their nails become dull and though their nails aren't essential to their well being. It helps the, while eating. I know this because I purchased my tortoise from craigslist and even though i don't recommend doing this it turned out fine. However she kept him on dirt and hills nails were very dull and almost non existent. In a month they were sharp and growing healthy. If your tortoise is a tropical species cypress mulch is your best bet Also, how old are they? Idk if you mentioned that already but i forget and cant go back to look while typing

 

[tortoisebro]

What type of UVB light do you have for your new tortoise?

I currently do not. From what i've been reading UVB lighting isn't a "must" with these species as they are edge of forest/in forest species, hide a lot as young and get most of the D3 they need from their diet (meats and the occasional supplement in captivity). I understand the controversy on this topic
(snip)

The idea that forest tortoises do not need D3 is based on some really flawed theories. Most red-footed tortoises are not, in fact, found in deep forest but instead are considered a savannah species in most of their habitat. Even when found in heavy forest, they tend to frequent the edge habitats. There is also no real evidence that 'they get most of their D3 from their diet' since most of their native foods are rather low in it.

However, whether they 'need' D3 or not, they certainly benefit from it.

I bought a D3 supplement (i've been going through this thread http://www.tortoiseforum.org/thread-5893-page-4.html)

As far as lighting goes, is a regular 60 watt household light bulb that produces heat and light good enough or do I need one that produces UVA? like the blue ones that zoo med sells

---

---

Also Fake plants aren't the best Idea. They are very active and explores and love to sample new greens. You wouldn't want a tortoise ingesting plastic right?? Also, If a tortoise is kept on dirt and sand for too long their nails become dull and though their nails aren't essential to their well being. It helps the, while eating. I know this because I purchased my tortoise from craigslist and even though i don't recommend doing this it turned out fine. However she kept him on dirt and hills nails were very dull and almost non existent. In a month they were sharp and growing healthy. If your tortoise is a tropical species cypress mulch is your best bet Also, how old are they? Idk if you mentioned that already but i forget and cant go back to look while typing

I think he/she is probably between one or two years old.. through guestimation

 

[FLINTUS]

Your orignil substrate soil, leaves and moss is perfect. Tortoise bro's diet is lacking and needs more weeds. This is what I would say:
In captivity, the basis of a red foot's diet should be 30-40% fruit and 60-70% weeds, veg, salad and flowers. They should also have access to a cuttle fish bone and a calcium supplement such as Nutrobal or Nekton MSA. Every fortnight a form of protein should be provided, often people use low fat, premium dog pellets or boiled chicken.
Good veg and weeds to use: Funghi, rocket, watercress, lambs lettuce, raddichio, carrot(in small quantities), cauliflower heart(small quantities), plantain, hibiscus, clover, forget-me-not, dandelion, kale(in limited amounts), escarole, chicory, endive, evening primrose, prickly pear and other cactuses, courgettes, squash and zucchini(although technically a fruit), peppeers(technically a fruit), mallow, cornflowers, thistle, pansies, vetch, bittercress and dead nettle.
Fruit: Lichees, bananas(very little though), strawberries, redcurrants, blackcurrants, blackberries, papaya, mango, lichee, passion fruit, sharon fruit, pear, apple, kiwi, melon, blackberries,apricot, peach, raspberries and blueberries.
Many people supplement these with pelleted diets. However, I feel as long as the range of food is diverse enough, there is no need for this. If you do use pellets, use them in small quantities and a good brand such as mazuri.
I've posted this before so it's kind of become the post I respnd with to diet questions.
Regarding UVB, I do offer mine a MVB and they do enjoy this, but there are people who've kept them without UVB successfully, Stells on Shelled Warriors I believe has.

 

[Michael in MO]

your set-up sounds amazing, so some follow up questions.. when did you get the tort (has it had time to acclimate)? How are you determining how much it's eaten (could it be eating more when you aren't watching it or do you remove the food after a certain time frame so you're SURE it's not eating)? Is the tort shy, does it come towards you, indifferent or run away, (if it's shy perhaps you could place it's food close enough to its hide that it doesn't feel exposed when eating) Do you feed it after a few hours of "daylight" begins (so it's warm enough to have an appetite and can digest the food properly) and lastly.. did you get it from a breeder so that you can contact the breeder to find out what it WAS being fed..?

 

[Tortoise]

The reason folks are suggesting small amounts of banana is that some red foots like it too much and prefer it over all other foods-like an addiction.
I give mine a little banana once in a while with skins for fibre.(mine are large adults though and can cope with banana skin)
I sometimes mash it to a pulp and add to a mix of greens etc to change the flavour too.
Its ok in moderation like most things.
Enjoy your red foot-they are a nice species.

 

[tortoisebro]

Your orignil substrate soil, leaves and moss is perfect. Tortoise bro's diet is lacking and needs more weeds. This is what I would say:
In captivity, the basis of a red foot's diet should be 30-40% fruit and 60-70% weeds, veg, salad and flowers. They should also have access to a cuttle fish bone and a calcium supplement such as Nutrobal or Nekton MSA. Every fortnight a form of protein should be provided, often people use low fat, premium dog pellets or boiled chicken.
Good veg and weeds to use: Funghi, rocket, watercress, lambs lettuce, raddichio, carrot(in small quantities), cauliflower heart(small quantities), plantain, hibiscus, clover, forget-me-not, dandelion, kale(in limited amounts), escarole, chicory, endive, evening primrose, prickly pear and other cactuses, courgettes, squash and zucchini(although technically a fruit), peppeers(technically a fruit), mallow, cornflowers, thistle, pansies, vetch, bittercress and dead nettle.
Fruit: Lichees, bananas(very little though), strawberries, redcurrants, blackcurrants, blackberries, papaya, mango, lichee, passion fruit, sharon fruit, pear, apple, kiwi, melon, blackberries,apricot, peach, raspberries and blueberries.
Many people supplement these with pelleted diets. However, I feel as long as the range of food is diverse enough, there is no need for this. If you do use pellets, use them in small quantities and a good brand such as mazuri.
I've posted this before so it's kind of become the post I respnd with to diet questions.
Regarding UVB, I do offer mine a MVB and they do enjoy this, but there are people who've kept them without UVB successfully, Stells on Shelled Warriors I believe has.

Thanks for the info! I haven't had much time considering how new she is to give her a really varied diet or get her on a schedule, but i'm working on it

your set-up sounds amazing, so some follow up questions.. when did you get the tort (has it had time to acclimate)? How are you determining how much it's eaten (could it be eating more when you aren't watching it or do you remove the food after a certain time frame so you're SURE it's not eating)? Is the tort shy, does it come towards you, indifferent or run away, (if it's shy perhaps you could place it's food close enough to its hide that it doesn't feel exposed when eating) Do you feed it after a few hours of "daylight" begins (so it's warm enough to have an appetite and can digest the food properly) and lastly.. did you get it from a breeder so that you can contact the breeder to find out what it WAS being fed..?

I got her from a petshop... a good pet shop, but still a pet shop. I've determined how much she's eaten because the food I put in there remained untouched (I'd let sit in there most of the day). I let her warm up for a few hours before I try feeding. I'm venturing that she hasn't had all the time to acclimate that she needs.. I've seen her take nibbles recently. I think she's shy when i'm in the room

The reason folks are suggesting small amounts of banana is that some red foots like it too much and prefer it over all other foods-like an addiction.
I give mine a little banana once in a while with skins for fibre.(mine are large adults though and can cope with banana skin)
I sometimes mash it to a pulp and add to a mix of greens etc to change the flavour too.
Its ok in moderation like most things.
Enjoy your red foot-they are a nice species.

Makes sense. I'll try some banana with her some time