Need help! Species I.D. and care info

[Izzi B]

I recently was given a tortoise. I do want to say I have gotten much hate for not knowing the species but I got the tortoise from a friend who had gotten it after her aunt passed away. My friend knew nothing so consequently I know nothing about what species it is. I don't have the money to take it to the vet right now and see what they say so while I am saving up I was hoping for all your help. I will upload some photos.

PLEASE HELP. I really want to give this guy the best care I can give him. I know his nails are over grown and if
you see any other issues please let me know

His shell seems to hinge in the front and back when he pulls his limbs in. he also had three nails on the back feet and five nails on the front (one small one to four main ones).

 

[Killerrookie]

That's a box turtle. Looks like a Three-Toed Box turtle and needs a trim on them back claws.

 

[cmacusa3]

Three-toed box turtle not a tortoise.

 

[cmacusa3]

Three-toed box turtle. Lots of great information here.

http://www.tortoiseforum.org/forums/american-box-turtles.98/

 

[cmacusa3]

http://www.tortoiseforum.org/forums/american-box-turtles.98/

 

[Yvonne G]

I was tempted to say that Bob is a three toed box turtle (Terrapene carolina triunguis) too, but looking at the picture with the hand holding him, he seems a bit big for the three toe. He may possibly be a Gulf Coast. And judging by his toenails, it looks like he hasn't been getting the right nutrition.

CARE OF BOX TURTLES

General guide to the care of
North American box turtles

IntroductionHousingFeedingBreedingHatchling CareHealthHibernation

INTRODUCTION:

This care-sheet is a general guide to the captive care of North American box turtles in the genus Terrapene. Box turtles are generally hardy animals that can thrive in captivity when properly cared for. They often have distinctive personalities and can learn to respond to their keepers. They are also very long-lived animals. It is possible for you and your box turtle to have a long and happy relationship together if you provide a suitable environment and proper care.

Box turtles have a hinged plastron (under shell) which allows them to close up tightly inside their shells. A healthy box turtle will have a good weight, and will react when picked up either by struggling to escape or by hastily withdrawing into its shell. A newly acquired box turtle should be closely monitored for signs of illness and given time to adjust to its new surroundings. This is especially true of box turtles obtained from pet stores. These are often ill and may suffer from heavy infestations with internal parasites. To prevent the outbreak and spread of infections, newly acquired box turtles should be quarantined for at least 3 months before being introduced to others.


HOUSING

Ideally, box turtles should be kept outdoors in a backyard or in a purpose-built enclosure. Fencing around the yard or enclosure must be secure enough to protect the turtle from dogs and other potential predators. Box turtles can dig under or climb over fences. Adding a lip along the top of the fence and trimming plants and vegetation growing alongside will reduce the risk of your turtle climbing up the fence and escaping. If raccoons and skunks occur in the neighborhood the enclosures must be covered. Plant the enclosure with small shrubs to provide shade, and with edible plants such as strawberries. Provide moist leaf piles, compost heaps and rotten logs for the turtle to hide, sleep and hunt in. During the summer, box turtles are most active in the early morning and late afternoon, and after rain. In dry areas the enclosure should be sprinkled with water daily to maintain adequate humidity. A dish of water large enough for the turtle to soak in must be available AT ALL TIMES.

If kept indoors, a warm (75° F, 24° C), moist, roomy terrarium should be provided. It must be furnished with a dish of water for drinking and soaking and a hide box or shelter. Potting soil (screened for glass, plastic and other contaminants), newspaper or indoor/outdoor carpeting can be used for the terrarium floor, but it must be kept clean. Corncob bedding and wood shavings are dangerous and should be avoided. The terrarium should be misted daily to maintain the humidity. Box turtles will often defecate in water and so their water bowl should be cleaned daily. Box turtles housed indoors should be allowed outside in natural sunlight when possible and allowed to exercise frequently. To augment natural sunlight indoors, a full-spectrum fluorescent lamp such as a Vitalite®, Sylvania 50 or Chroma 50 light should be placed over the terrarium.




FOODS AND FEEDING

Box turtles tend to like early morning feedings. They are omnivorous in the wild, and eat a substantial amount of insects and other invertebrates as well as fruit and some vegetable matter. They should be offered animal matter (night crawlers, snails, slugs, worms, crickets, Purina trout chow or low fat cat food) at least twice a week. They enjoy fruits such as tomatoes, apples, cantaloupe, strawberries, and blackberries. Some box turtles will take greens, leafy weeds, grape leaves and mixed vegetables. Sprinkle the food with a calcium source such as calcium carbonate or calcium lactate once a week, and with a vitamin preparation such as Superpreen® or Reptovite® once a month. Snails are a particularly nutritious food favored by most box turtles. However, you must not offer snails that may have come from an area where snail bait has been spread. If in doubt, purge the snails by maintaining them for one week on a diet of romaine lettuce or weeds from your yard before feeding them to your turtle. NEVER use snail bait or other pesticides in or near areas where box turtles are kept.

HEALTH

A healthy box turtle will maintain or gain weight, have bright, beady eyes, eat well, produce firm, well-formed stools and be generally active and alert. The eyes and nose should be free of any discharge or mucous, and the inside of the mouth should not be pale or white. Box turtles are susceptible to several potentially fatal infectious diseases, and all newly acquired turtles should be watched closely for signs of illness and kept in quarantine. Box turtles that are light in weight or not perfectly healthy should be examined by an experienced veterinarian. Unhealthy turtles will need to be isolated indoors, kept warm (85° F, 29° C) and humid, fed regularly, and not allowed to hibernate.

Abscesses are a common problem in box turtles, often occurring as lumps or swellings on the side of the head near to or in the ear. An abscess should be lanced and the contents removed. The wound should be flushed with Betadine, and packed with a topical triple antibiotic.

Dry, cracking or flaky skin is usually a sign of malnourishment, dehydration or lack of humidity. It can often be remedied by improving the quality of the diet, providing an environment more appropriate to the needs of the animal and allowing the turtle to soak in water more often.

Bot-fly maggot infestation is seen occasionally, particularly in turtles captured from the wild, and appears as small bumps on the fleshy parts of the body. The bumps have a hole in the middle. Flushing the holes with Betadine may cause some of the maggots to surface where they can be picked off with tweezers. It may be necessary to enlarge the hole so that the many brown/yellow maggots can be removed with tweezers. Unless you are experienced with such treatments it is recommended that the box turtle be taken to a veterinarian.

Cuts and scratches should be cleaned, treated with antibiotic, and the turtle moved indoors until all wounds are healed. Untreated wounds may become infected or become infested with maggots, and this can be fatal.

The shell of your turtle should be smooth and hard. Box turtles raised in captivity occasionally suffer severe shell deformities. This is usually due to poor husbandry and is often a product of indoor housing and being fed a nutrient poor diet. Box turtles that are limited to indoor terrariums are at risk for shell rot, although this is more common in water turtles.

Healthy box turtles generally have voracious appetites although this does vary seasonally. Some female box turtles may loose their appetite just prior to egg legging but regain it once the eggs are laid. Some males will loose their appetite during breeding season, as they are too preoccupied to eat. A box turtle that refuses food for several days should probably be taken to a veterinarian for clinical evaluation.

Box turtle feces should be firm and hold their shape. Persistent loose or runny stools are signs of poor nutrition or illness. The diet should be improved and a fecal sample should be examined to determine if internal parasites such as worms or protozoa are the cause.

It is important to note that turtles can hide their illness for quite a while before showing symptoms. Once you see signs of illness don't wait to see if your turtle will get better on its own, it will probably get worse. A sick box turtle needs to be examined by an experienced veterinarian to determine what is wrong as soon as possible.


HIBERNATION

In the fall, as the days become cooler, box turtles will begin to eat less, bask less, and appear sluggish. Some will bury themselves under roots of plants, into a compost pile or dig down into the dirt. To aid in the protection of the animal, leaves and grass clippings may be placed over the buried turtle. Some keepers prefer to provide a suitable area for hibernation such as a dog kennel with a floor of loose soil or dry leaves. An occasional rain is not a threat to a hibernating box turtle, but protection may be needed against severe freezing and flooding. Because of their high moisture requirements, box turtles should never be placed in a dry box for hibernation. They may dehydrate and die. Box turtles reemerge in the early spring.

Only healthy, well nourished box turtles should be allowed to hibernate. A box turtle that has not built up sufficient fat reserves may not live through hibernation.


(Researched and written by California Turtle & Tortoise Club…………………..distributed by Clovis Turtle & Tortoise Rescue

 

[cmacusa3]

I'm sticking with three-toed. Plastron, It has 3 toes and I have 3 females and 1 male that are very big. All around 700 grams and 6"

 

[MichaelaW]

I've seen some pretty huge triunguis.

 

[Eric Phillips]

I recently was given a tortoise. I do want to say I have gotten much hate for not knowing the species but I got the tortoise from a friend who had gotten it after her aunt passed away. My friend knew nothing so consequently I know nothing about what species it is. I don't have the money to take it to the vet right now and see what they say so while I am saving up I was hoping for all your help. I will upload some photos.

PLEASE HELP. I really want to give this guy the best care I can give him. I know his nails are over grown and if
you see any other issues please let me know

His shell seems to hinge in the front and back when he pulls his limbs in. he also had three nails on the back feet and five nails on the front (one small one to four main ones).

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Congrats on your 3 toed box turtle! Looks like this one was kept a bit dry, like a tortoise. Unfortunately the needs of 3 toed box turtles and tortoises are bit different. I would continue to give her daily warm soaks for a week or two just to get her and the skin a bit more hydrated. The care sheets given by previous members are fantastic! If your keeping this 3 toed inside, a big enough enclosure is essential. So, don't be afraid to ask for advice on enclosures, lighting, substrates, and temps! A proper kept home is a happy home for box turtles. Hope this one works out for you and good luck!

 

[HI Tortoise Rescue]

He's a she, by the way, as males have red eyes in nearly all cases.

Ken

 

[lisa127]

3 toed box turtle no doubt. The turtle doesn't look very big to me as far as box turtles go.

 

[ColleenT]

He's a she, by the way, as males have red eyes in nearly all cases.

Ken

My male has brown eyes. It's not the only indicator you should use to sex them. i think the underside of the tail has been a better way to determine gender.