Need advice on Baby Sulcata enclosure

[Shortyalex16]

Hi everyone. Since finding out yesterday that our little Sheldon is a baby Sulcata hatchling and not a desert tortoise like I originally thought, I have made some huge changes to how we are caring for him. I have a wide, shallow storage container that he is currently in. I layered coco coir at the bottom and topped it with cypress mulch. I keep it damp with a spray bottle, but I know it isn't humid enough without a lid. The container came with a lid but I am afraid to close it because I think he will suffocate. Any thoughts on this? I also ordered a fogger for humidity that is coming on Monday. Here is a pic of his current enclosure.

 

[Shortyalex16]

I also want to add that the lid is a snap on clip on either side and you can open one side of the lid at a time and fold it back. Kind of like a picnic basket style. The lid is plastic so I do not know how well it will do with the heat lamp and if I should cut holes into it or not. I love him so much and just want to do my best to keep him happy and healthy.

 

[Melis]

Hello!
Your enclosure needs the lid on to maintain proper humidity, but that tub is too shallow. People cut holes in the lid and then line them with foil to sit the lights on. But then the lights will most likely be too close. Only the temps can confirm that. Do you have a temp gun?
Another solution would be to build a frame around it, perhaps out of pvc, to hang the lights from and then enclose the container and lights with some sort of plastic sheet, like a shower curtain. Like a greenhouse. Just be sure nothing is touching the lights to prevent a fire hazard. If you do a search on the enclosure section you will find examples.

 

[Tom]

Low sided sweater boxes are about the worst way to house this tropical species when they are babies. You need something with much taller sides and preferably a closed in top. Your closed chamber will not be air tight, and plenty of oxygen will move in and out of your enclosure.

Maintaining the correct warm humid conditions will be impossible in your current enclosure unless you heat and humidify the entire room 24/7. That is the benefit of a close chamber: You only have to heat a small space and the "good" air stays contained.

 

[Shortyalex16]

Hello!
Your enclosure needs the lid on to maintain proper humidity, but that tub is too shallow. People cut holes in the lid and then line them with foil to sit the lights on. But then the lights will most likely be too close. Only the temps can confirm that. Do you have a temp gun?
Another solution would be to build a frame around it, perhaps out of pvc, to hang the lights from and then enclose the container and lights with some sort of plastic sheet, like a shower curtain. Like a greenhouse. Just be sure nothing is touching the lights to prevent a fire hazard. If you do a search on the enclosure section you will find examples.

Hey I took your advice and built this. What do you think? It's all enclosed with a shower curtain and has an unsealable flap on the side so I can get him out to clean his food, water etc. Thank you so much.

 

[Shortyalex16]

Low sided sweater boxes are about the worst way to house this tropical species when they are babies. You need something with much taller sides and preferably a closed in top. Your closed chamber will not be air tight, and plenty of oxygen will move in and out of your enclosure.

Maintaining the correct warm humid conditions will be impossible in your current enclosure unless you heat and humidify the entire room 24/7. That is the benefit of a close chamber: You only have to heat a small space and the "good" air stays contained.

Thanks again, Tom.

What do you think about this improved enclosure?

 

[Melis]

Hey I took your advice and built this. What do you think? It's all enclosed with a shower curtain and has an unsealable flap on the side so I can get him out to clean his food, water etc. Thank you so much.

View attachment 256192

That looks like a great start! Now you need to measure the temp and humidity. Those lights look too high, but the only way to be sure is to check the temperature. I would also add some plants or something so the baby doesn’t feel so exposed. Keep in mind, it won’t take long for your little one to outgrow this. So make sure you’re doing your research now for your next enclosure.

 

[Shortyalex16]

That looks like a great start! Now you need to measure the temp and humidity. Those lights look too high, but the only way to be sure is to check the temperature. I would also add some plants or something so the baby doesn’t feel so exposed. Keep in mind, it won’t take long for your little one to outgrow this. So make sure you’re doing your research now for your next enclosure.

Thanks, Melis! If the bulbs are too high will higher wattage bulbs help make up for the distance? I'm definitely gonna decorate. That's the fun part!

 

[Emily Contreras]

Hi everyone. Since finding out yesterday that our little Sheldon is a baby Sulcata hatchling and not a desert tortoise like I originally thought, I have made some huge changes to how we are caring for him. I have a wide, shallow storage container that he is currently in. I layered coco coir at the bottom and topped it with cypress mulch. I keep it damp with a spray bottle, but I know it isn't humid enough without a lid. The container came with a lid but I am afraid to close it because I think he will suffocate. Any thoughts on this? I also ordered a fogger for humidity that is coming on Monday. Here is a pic of his current enclosure.View attachment 256098

Hah! Thats the same type of enclosure I have. I refer to it as a christmas tree tote, because its really similar.

Since I have the same type of enclosure ill tell you this and how I make it work;
1. The lid is really strong to cut but you can cut holes in the top. to lay a che and a basking bulb or a low wattage flood bulb.
2. keep the lid on and drill two tiny lil air holes.
3. put 2 hides, I recomend 2 little pots on each side of the enclosure.
4. Dont even bother spraying it. Just take a liter and wet it down. the humidity rises FAST.

Thanks again, Tom.

What do you think about this improved enclosure?

View attachment 256193

Looks kind of small :/ I liked the other one better.

EDIT: realized that its the same one. That looks nice, but since its bigger, its going to be hard to get humidity (I think thats how it works) And the lights seem waaaayyyy too high up, to the point where your sully might not even be getting heat

 

[Emily Contreras]

Low sided sweater boxes are about the worst way to house this tropical species when they are babies. You need something with much taller sides and preferably a closed in top. Your closed chamber will not be air tight, and plenty of oxygen will move in and out of your enclosure.

Maintaining the correct warm humid conditions will be impossible in your current enclosure unless you heat and humidify the entire room 24/7. That is the benefit of a close chamber: You only have to heat a small space and the "good" air stays contained.

It works for me.

 

[Shortyalex16]

Hah! Thats the same type of enclosure I have. I refer to it as a christmas tree tote, because its really similar.

Since I have the same type of enclosure ill tell you this and how I make it work;
1. The lid is really strong to cut but you can cut holes in the top. to lay a che and a basking bulb or a low wattage flood bulb.
2. keep the lid on and drill two tiny lil air holes.
3. put 2 hides, I recomend 2 little pots on each side of the enclosure.
4. Dont even bother spraying it. Just take a liter and wet it down. the humidity rises FAST.


Looks kind of small :/ I liked the other one better.

EDIT: realized that its the same one. That looks nice, but since its bigger, its going to be hard to get humidity (I think thats how it works) And the lights seem waaaayyyy too high up, to the point where your sully might not even be getting heat

Thank you! That's cool that we have the same container The temp has been a consistent 80 all night right now it's at 90 .I may need to buy a higher wattage bulb since it's kind of impossible to shorten the rods .I'm supposed to be receiving a fogger in the mail today. We will see how that keeps the humidity up .Thank you so much, Emily.

 

[DeanS]

Thank you! That's cool that we have the same container The temp has been a consistent 80 all night right now it's at 90 .I may need to buy a higher wattage bulb since it's kind of impossible to shorten the rods .I'm supposed to be receiving a fogger in the mail today. We will see how that keeps the humidity up .Thank you so much, Emily.

Temps should be a minimum of 90ºF with 90-100%RH. Do not use bulbs or Ceramic Heat Emitters of any kind...they will dry out your animal! Use radiant heat panels instead...these are the best!

http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels

 

[kyel3840]

Temps should be a minimum of 90ºF with 90-100%RH. Do not use bulbs or Ceramic Heat Emitters of any kind...they will dry out your animal! Use radiant heat panels instead...these are the best!

http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels

Minimum of 90% ambient dean?

 

[kyel3840]

Minimum of 90% ambient dean?

I mean 90 degrees

 

[Shortyalex16]

Temps should be a minimum of 90ºF with 90-100%RH. Do not use bulbs or Ceramic Heat Emitters of any kind...they will dry out your animal! Use radiant heat panels instead...these are the best!

http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels

Thanks!

 

[Emily Contreras]

Temps should be a minimum of 90ºF with 90-100%RH. Do not use bulbs or Ceramic Heat Emitters of any kind...they will dry out your animal! Use radiant heat panels instead...these are the best!

http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels

I did but then people told me that ches are fine and flood bulbs are fine too. And that radient heat panels could be used but they are inconvenient. So I decided to switch back.
Im really, REALLY confused.

 

[DeanS]

I did but then people told me that ches are fine and flood bulbs are fine too. And that radient heat panels could be used but they are inconvenient. So I decided to switch back.
Im really, REALLY confused.

People will often say things because that's what everybody else does! Most of them have pyramided or desiccated animals. Again...you're in Arizona...you have the perfect climate to raise sulcatas without any bulbs or CHEs...ever! I'm in the high desert of CA which means I get three months of cold weather...I still put everybody out when it's sunny...and they thrive! Some people have decent knowledge...others should just shut up...sit back...and observe. Then, there are those w3ho shouldn't have animals in the first place!

 

[kyel3840]

People will often say things because that's what everybody else does! Most of them have pyramided or desiccated animals. Again...you're in Arizona...you have the perfect climate to raise sulcatas without any bulbs or CHEs...ever! I'm in the high desert of CA which means I get three months of cold weather...I still put everybody out when it's sunny...and they thrive! Some people have decent knowledge...others should just shut up...sit back...and observe. Then, there are those w3ho shouldn't have animals in the first place!

I sent you a pm Dean

 

[Minority2]

I did but then people told me that ches are fine and flood bulbs are fine too. And that radient heat panels could be used but they are inconvenient. So I decided to switch back.
Im really, REALLY confused.

Ceramic heat emitters and radiant heat panels perform quite similarly. The biggest difference and drawback is the size of the heating surface which affects the speed, spread, and distribution of the heat. Ceramic heat emitters are not effective in large spaces, this is the reason why ceramic heat emitters may take longer to heat an entire enclosure over a radiant heating panel. And because it takes much longer, tortoises will often gravitate towards the location of the ceramic heat emitter which can cause them to dry out faster than a more efficiently performing radiant heating panel which will shut off much faster due to the advantages of their size and surface area.

The placement height of the ceramic heat emitter, a DIY heat guard that can directly block the heat of a ceramic heat emitter from distributing downwards, and or a large soaking dish placed directly below a ceramic heat emitter are all various ways one can possibly mitigate the drawbacks of using a ceramic heat emitter.

People will often say things because that's what everybody else does! Most of them have pyramided or desiccated animals. Again...you're in Arizona...you have the perfect climate to raise sulcatas without any bulbs or CHEs...ever! I'm in the high desert of CA which means I get three months of cold weather...I still put everybody out when it's sunny...and they thrive! Some people have decent knowledge...others should just shut up...sit back...and observe. Then, there are those w3ho shouldn't have animals in the first place!

When are you going to find the time to write up that detailed care sheet so that all the members in tortoise forum can have the option of attempting to replicate your no basking bulb of any kind theory?

Quit stalling.

 

[DeanS]

Ceramic heat emitters and radiant heat panels perform quite similarly. The biggest difference and drawback is the size of the heating surface which affects the speed, spread, and distribution of the heat. Ceramic heat emitters are not effective in large spaces, this is the reason why ceramic heat emitters may take longer to heat an entire enclosure over a radiant heating panel. And because it takes much longer, tortoises will often gravitate towards the location of the ceramic heat emitter which can cause them to dry out faster than a more efficiently performing radiant heating panel which will shut off much faster due to the advantages of their size and surface area.

The placement height of the ceramic heat emitter, a DIY heat guard that can directly block the heat of a ceramic heat emitter from distributing downwards, and or a large soaking dish placed directly below a ceramic heat emitter are all various ways one can possibly mitigate the drawbacks of using a ceramic heat emitter.



When are you going to find the time to write up that detailed care sheet so that all the members in tortoise forum can have the option of attempting to replicate your no basking bulb of any kind theory?

Quit stalling.

Animal care takes priority over human needs right now! Two dozen tortoises and a half dozen green anacondas...one gravid and ready to pop! I'll get there...but once these snakes are born...I'll be a phantom here for awhile! I am, however, fine tuning the care sheet now! Maybe it'll be done soon...and maybe not!