My baby Sulcata

[CGavron]

I noticed today while I was cleaning Scooters food bowl that he has a little discharge from his nose. Almost like he was blowing a bubble. However his habitats really haven't changed. I hope he isn't sick. Can anyone help with some thoughts?

 

[Tom]

I noticed today while I was cleaning Scooters food bowl that he has a little discharge from his nose. Almost like he was blowing a bubble. However his habitats really haven't changed. I hope he isn't sick. Can anyone help with some thoughts?

What are your four temperatures? Warm side, cool side, basking area and overnight low?

What size and type enclosure?

How are you heating and lighting? UV? What type of UV?

 

[CGavron]

What are your four temperatures? Warm side, cool side, basking area and overnight low?

What size and type enclosure?

How are you heating and lighting? UV? What type of UV?

Well right now its a 20 gallon long because we are currently building a new closed enclosure. We have a zoo med heat/ uvb light combo. 18" T8 uvb and a ceramic heater for night on the cold side set to 80 degrees with a small under tank heater positioned under his hide. Basking side is between 98-101. Cold side daytime is 75-80.at night around 75 but never below 72.

 

[Tom]

Well right now its a 20 gallon long because we are currently building a new closed enclosure. We have a zoo med heat/ uvb light combo. 18" T8 uvb and a ceramic heater for night on the cold side set to 80 degrees with a small under tank heater positioned under his hide. Basking side is between 98-101. Cold side daytime is 75-80.at night around 75 but never below 72.

Its too cool. The coldest part of the enclosure should be able 80 day and night. Ambient day time temps should rise to the high 80s or low 90s.

Since he's already showing signs of sickness, warm the minimum temps up to 85 day and night, until two weeks after symptoms disappear. Keep humidity up and do your daily soaks during this time too.

 

[CGavron]

Its too cool. The coldest part of the enclosure should be able 80 day and night. Ambient day time temps should rise to the high 80s or low 90s.

Since he's already showing signs of sickness, warm the minimum temps up to 85 day and night, until two weeks after symptoms disappear. Keep humidity up and do your daily soaks during this time too.

I bought a thermostat today for the ceramic heater. Should I set it at 85? That way daytime temps will increase with the basking light. This then will create another problem, keeping the humidity up since the basking light burns it off.

I need at least another week for the new enclosure to cure before I can transfer him to the new enclosed habitat.

 

[Tom]

I bought a thermostat today for the ceramic heater. Should I set it at 85? That way daytime temps will increase with the basking light. This then will create another problem, keeping the humidity up since the basking light burns it off.

I need at least another week for the new enclosure to cure before I can transfer him to the new enclosed habitat.

Cool temperatures are an immediate problem that need to be dealt with right now because you are seeing the first signs of a respiratory illness. Humidity is more of a long term problem. If the tortoise grows several inches over months or years in conditions that are too dry, you will get some pyramiding. A week or two while you finish your closed chamber is not a big deal. Cool night temps are a big deal RIGHT NOW.

Here is another tidbit for you: You'll probably need to use lower wattage bulbs in your closed chamber. Once the heat is all contained, you need to ternate a lot less of it. The thermostat will control your CHE so that it will never over heat things, but you'll probably need a much smaller basking bulb. Your thermometer will guide you more than we can on this issue.

 

[CGavron]

Cool temperatures are an immediate problem that need to be dealt with right now because you are seeing the first signs of a respiratory illness. Humidity is more of a long term problem. If the tortoise grows several inches over months or years in conditions that are too dry, you will get some pyramiding. A week or two while you finish your closed chamber is not a big deal. Cool night temps are a big deal RIGHT NOW.

Here is another tidbit for you: You'll probably need to use lower wattage bulbs in your closed chamber. Once the heat is all contained, you need to ternate a lot less of it. The thermostat will control your CHE so that it will never over heat things, but you'll probably need a much smaller basking bulb. Your thermometer will guide you more than we can on this issue.

Thank you for all your insight. I will make the needed changes. After I correct the temp issues is there an estimated time frame I might expect to look for If I can get him going into the right direction with his health?

 

[Tom]

Thank you for all your insight. I will make the needed changes. After I correct the temp issues is there an estimated time frame I might expect to look for If I can get him going into the right direction with his health?

Because you are catching it early and warming the temps immediately, you should see no more bubbles at all. Symptoms should cease entirely within a couple of days.

 

[CGavron]

Because you are catching it early and warming the temps immediately, you should see no more bubbles at all. Symptoms should cease entirely within a couple of days.

Thank you so much for your help, I really appreciate it a lot.