Lighting question

[Thundersnow]

I have a reptisun UVB 36"10.0 T5 on the tank for my 2yr old Indian Star Tortoise. I have a 45w incandescent bulb for daytime heat and a ceramic bulb for night time heat.My question is this
Being I have the UVB bulb on all daylight hours can I just use the ceramic bulb 24 hours and no longer us the incandescent bulb just have on the UVB one.
I am getting a 2 yr old Brazilian Cherry head Tortoise this week and would like to do the same if this is the right way to go. The cherry head will of course be in separate for the Star. I ordered a Reptisun 48" UVB 5.0 T5 for her.
Thanks

 

[Tom]

I have a reptisun UVB 36"10.0 T5 on the tank for my 2yr old Indian Star Tortoise. I have a 45w incandescent bulb for daytime heat and a ceramic bulb for night time heat.My question is this
Being I have the UVB bulb on all daylight hours can I just use the ceramic bulb 24 hours and no longer us the incandescent bulb just have on the UVB one.
I am getting a 2 yr old Brazilian Cherry head Tortoise this week and would like to do the same if this is the right way to go. The cherry head will of course be in separate for the Star. I ordered a Reptisun 48" UVB 5.0 T5 for her.
Thanks

The Indian star needs a basking lamp and LEDs to make it bright for 12-13 hours a day, set on a timer.
The UV tube should only be on for a few hours mid day.
The CHE should be set on a thermostat to maintain ambient temp 24/7.

The cherry head needs an over all ambient temperature between 82 and 86 day and night, every day. It does not need a basking lamp. UV should only be on for a few hours mid day, and it needs some lighting, but not too bright for 12-13 hours a day on a timer.

 

[Thundersnow]

The Indian star needs a basking lamp and LEDs to make it bright for 12-13 hours a day, set on a timer.
The UV tube should only be on for a few hours mid day.
The CHE should be set on a thermostat to maintain ambient temp 24/7.

The cherry head needs an over all ambient temperature between 82 and 86 day and night, every day. It does not need a basking lamp. UV should only be on for a few hours mid day, and it needs some lighting, but not too bright for 12-13 hours a day on a timer.

The Indian star needs a basking lamp and LEDs to make it bright for 12-13 hours a day, set on a timer.
The UV tube should only be on for a few hours mid day.
The CHE should be set on a thermostat to maintain ambient temp 24/7.

The cherry head needs an over all ambient temperature between 82 and 86 day and night, every day. It does not need a basking lamp. UV should only be on for a few hours mid day, and it needs some lighting, but not too bright for 12-13 hours a day on a timer.

The Indian star needs a basking lamp and LEDs to make it bright for 12-13 hours a day, set on a timer.
The UV tube should only be on for a few hours mid day.
The CHE should be set on a thermostat to maintain ambient temp 24/7.

The cherry head needs an over all ambient temperature between 82 and 86 day and night, every day. It does not need a basking lamp. UV should only be on for a few hours mid day, and it needs some lighting, but not too bright for 12-13 hours a day on a timer.

The Indian star needs a basking lamp and LEDs to make it bright for 12-13 hours a day, set on a timer.
The UV tube should only be on for a few hours mid day.
The CHE should be set on a thermostat to maintain ambient temp 24/7.

The cherry head needs an over all ambient temperature between 82 and 86 day and night, every day. It does not need a basking lamp. UV should only be on for a few hours mid day, and it needs some lighting, but not too bright for 12-13 hours a day on a timer.

 

[Thundersnow]

The Indian star needs a basking lamp and LEDs to make it bright for 12-13 hours a day, set on a timer.
The UV tube should only be on for a few hours mid day.
The CHE should be set on a thermostat to maintain ambient temp 24/7.

The cherry head needs an over all ambient temperature between 82 and 86 day and night, every day. It does not need a basking lamp. UV should only be on for a few hours mid day, and it needs some lighting, but not too bright for 12-13 hours a day on a timer.

My hero ❤️🙏🐢

 

[Thundersnow]

The Indian star needs a basking lamp and LEDs to make it bright for 12-13 hours a day, set on a timer.
The UV tube should only be on for a few hours mid day.
The CHE should be set on a thermostat to maintain ambient temp 24/7.

The cherry head needs an over all ambient temperature between 82 and 86 day and night, every day. It does not need a basking lamp. UV should only be on for a few hours mid day, and it needs some lighting, but not too bright for 12-13 hours a day on a timer.

The Indian star needs a basking lamp and LEDs to make it bright for 12-13 hours a day, set on a timer.
The UV tube should only be on for a few hours mid day.
The CHE should be set on a thermostat to maintain ambient temp 24/7.

The cherry head needs an over all ambient temperature between 82 and 86 day and night, every day. It does not need a basking lamp. UV should only be on for a few hours mid day, and it needs some lighting, but not too bright for 12-13 hours a day on a timer.

The Indian star needs a basking lamp and LEDs to make it bright for 12-13 hours a day, set on a timer.
The UV tube should only be on for a few hours mid day.
The CHE should be set on a thermostat to maintain ambient temp 24/7.

The cherry head needs an over all ambient temperature between 82 and 86 day and night, every day. It does not need a basking lamp. UV should only be on for a few hours mid day, and it needs some lighting, but not too bright for 12-13 hours a day on a timer.

Thank you so much. Your information is much appreciated 🙏🐢

 

[ZEROPILOT]

@Thundersnow
Do you have a HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS nearby?
A few weeks ago, I posted about a hanging, aluminum 48" 10 thousand lumen LED light that I purchased to place over my Chameleons. Two of which require bright lighting for health.
It is inexpensive and super bright. And being an LED, it uses very little electricity. Doesn't get hot. And should last many years.
If you go take a look, you'll see that they also sell an 18 thousand lumen LED light. I can't even imagine how bright that'd be!

Screen shot this photo.
It's a coupon

 

[Thundersnow]

The Indian star needs a basking lamp and LEDs to make it bright for 12-13 hours a day, set on a timer.
The UV tube should only be on for a few hours mid day.
The CHE should be set on a thermostat to maintain ambient temp 24/7.

The cherry head needs an over all ambient temperature between 82 and 86 day and night, every day. It does not need a basking lamp. UV should only be on for a few hours mid day, and it needs some lighting, but not too bright for 12-13 hours a day on a timer.

@Tom what wattage do I need for the LED

The Indian star needs a basking lamp and LEDs to make it bright for 12-13 hours a day, set on a timer.
The UV tube should only be on for a few hours mid day.
The CHE should be set on a thermostat to maintain ambient temp 24/7.

The cherry head needs an over all ambient temperature between 82 and 86 day and night, every day. It does not need a basking lamp. UV should only be on for a few hours mid day, and it needs some lighting, but not too bright for 12-13 hours a day on a timer.

@Tom

@Thundersnow
Do you have a HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS nearby?
A few weeks ago, I posted about a hanging, aluminum 48" 10 thousand lumen LED light that I purchased to place over my Chameleons. Two of which require bright lighting for health.
It is inexpensive and super bright. And being an LED, it uses very little electricity. Doesn't get hot. And should last many years.
If you go take a look, you'll see that they also sell an 18 thousand lumen LED light. I can't even imagine how bright that'd be!

No harbor freight but I saw this on Chewy. It can take LED bulb. Or do I need the bigger bar type?Your thoughts

 

[ZEROPILOT]

You could screw an LED bulb in there. But you wouldn't get the light broadcasting like you would with LED strips (tubes)
BTW. Your Redfoot doesn't want bright light.

 

[Thundersnow]

You could screw an LED bulb in there. But you wouldn't get the light broadcasting like you would with LED strips (tubes)
BTW. Your Redfoot doesn't want bright light.

This was going in my Indian Stars tank.Tom suggested that for him. I'm looking at care sheets for the Redfoots they say different things about humidity,lighting and temp.Having a hard time figuring out the right husbandry. suggestions please.BTW I bought my Brazilian Cherryhead from Southern Reptiles. If I'n not mistaken you among other gave them a great review

 

[Tom]

@Tom what wattage do I need for the LED


@Tom

No harbor freight but I saw this on Chewy. It can take LED bulb. Or do I need the bigger bar type?Your thoughts

The pics from chewy show a CFL type florescent bulb. Those should never be used over tortoises.

The wattage for your LED isn't important. There are many ways to do it. Just be sure whatever type of LED bulb you use is somewhere around the 5000K color range.

Wattage is important for your basking lamp. What wattage you will need for that depends on the size and type of enclosure, and what your thermometer says. Usually a 65 watt flood will do it. In summer in my closed chambers, I switch to a 25 watt sometimes.

 

[Thundersnow]

The pics from chewy show a CFL type florescent bulb. Those should never be used over tortoises.

The wattage for your LED isn't important. There are many ways to do it. Just be sure whatever type of LED bulb you use is somewhere around the 5000K color range.

Wattage is important for your basking lamp. What wattage you will need for that depends on the size and type of enclosure, and what your thermometer says. Usually a 65 watt flood will do it. In summer in my closed chambers, I switch to a 25 watt sometimes.

I was going to get an LED bulb a screw in type
Tom I am so grateful thank you for always responding to me 🙏🐢❤️

 

[Tom]

I was going to get an LED bulb a screw in type
Tom I am so grateful thank you for always responding to me 🙏🐢❤️

I use screw-in type LEDs in several of my enclosures. I like the "globe" type for this purpose. The globes diffuse and spread out the light nicely, compared to a "normal" type LED bulb.

 

[Thundersnow]

The pics from chewy show a CFL type florescent bulb. Those should never be used over tortoises.

The wattage for your LED isn't important. There are many ways to do it. Just be sure whatever type of LED bulb you use is somewhere around the 5000K color range.

Wattage is important for your basking lamp. What wattage you will need for that depends on the size and type of enclosure, and what your thermometer says. Usually a 65 watt flood will do it. In summer in my closed chambers, I switch to a 25 watt sometimes.

S

The pics from chewy show a CFL type florescent bulb. Those should never be used over tortoises.

The wattage for your LED isn't important. There are many ways to do it. Just be sure whatever type of LED bulb you use is somewhere around the 5000K color range.

Wattage is important for your basking lamp. What wattage you will need for that depends on the size and type of enclosure, and what your thermometer says. Usually a 65 watt flood will do it. In summer in my closed chambers, I switch to a 25 watt sometimes.

squirt my star tortoise is presently in a 36” open front tank. He is 4” and I will be moving him to a 60” later on. I saw the LEDs that are rows of lights in a housing it seems like an awful lot of light.

I use screw-in type LEDs in several of my enclosures. I like the "globe" type for this purpose. The globes diffuse and spread out the light nicely, compared to a "normal" type LED bulb.

sounds good. Theses LEDS seem like a lot of light

 

[Tom]

S

squirt my star tortoise is presently in a 36” open front tank. He is 4” and I will be moving him to a 60” later on. I saw the LEDs that are rows of lights in a housing it seems like an awful lot of light.

sounds good. Theses LEDS seem like a lot of light

You would have to look at the numbers, but few indoor lighting set ups are as bright as the sun, and that is what we are loosely trying to simulate.

There are many types of LEDs. Tubes, screw-in bulbs, strips, and banks like the ones in your pics in most number 13. You don't need to go crazy with it. Its just needs to be well lit.

60 inches is pretty small for a 4 inch tortoise. If its 60 x48 inches, that will be okay for a while.

 

[Thundersnow]

Thanks again. Your advice along with @ZEROPILOT is invaluable.

 

[ZEROPILOT]

This was going in my Indian Stars tank.Tom suggested that for him. I'm looking at care sheets for the Redfoots they say different things about humidity,lighting and temp.Having a hard time figuring out the right husbandry. suggestions please.BTW I bought my Brazilian Cherryhead from Southern Reptiles. If I'n not mistaken you among other gave them a great review

I do endorse Southern Reptiles.
Redfoot and Cherryhead require humidity of over 75% 24/7.
They need an ambient temperature between 80 and 86.
They dislike bright lighting. Love areas to hide and need a water bowl low and large enough to wade in.
Their diet can be up to 60% fruit and they can eat up to 10% animal protein
They require less UVB than most other species. Indirect UVB can work fine. And a few hours outdoors in real sunlight can be enough. So that the need for a supplemental UVB isn't needed at all.

 

[Thundersnow]

I do endorse Southern Reptiles.
Redfoot and Cherryhead require humidity of over 75% 24/7.
They need an ambient temperature between 80 and 86.
They dislike bright lighting. Love areas to hide and need a water bowl low and large enough to wade in.
Their diet can be up to 60% fruit and they can eat up to 10% animal protein
They require less UVB than most other species. Indirect UVB can work fine. And a few hours outdoors in real sunlight can be enough. So that the need for a supplemental UVB isn't needed at all.

Thank you very much for that info. 🙏❤️🐢

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Thank you very much for that info. 🙏❤️🐢

Feel free to ask any specific questions that you have.
I'm more than happy to help. If I can.

 

[Thundersnow]

MUCH APPRECIATED ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️🐢🐢🐢🐢🐢🐢
BTW When Squirt is out of his hide I take him outside every time to walk and eat. He does stay in his hide a lot though but the weather is warm and if he’s out I take him outdoors for exercise and greenery

 

[NYJoe]

The Indian star needs a basking lamp and LEDs to make it bright for 12-13 hours a day, set on a timer.
The UV tube should only be on for a few hours mid day.
The CHE should be set on a thermostat to maintain ambient temp 24/7.

The cherry head needs an over all ambient temperature between 82 and 86 day and night, every day. It does not need a basking lamp. UV should only be on for a few hours mid day, and it needs some lighting, but not too bright for 12-13 hours a day on a timer.

Here is my two cents on this.

I don't agree with a one size fits all approach to lighting. Lighting and heating depend on the enclosure, lamp hardware, species, and diet. A full thorough answers needs details on everything, and on top of that, the conditions can change over the course of year as they do in nature.

All lamps emit waves of energy.
Incandescent lamps emit infrared and visible light.
Florescent lamps in the pet trade are designed to emit visible and UV light.
Ceramic lamps emit infrared light sensed as heat
LEDs can emit anything based on their tuning. Most are tuned for visible light. The pet trade is now seeing LEDs tuned with UV emission.
The better manufacturers pride specifications on the emissions expected from the particular bulb.

Since all the lamp emissions are waves, the energy received drops dramatically with distance. Also, any material, such as screens or glass, between the lamp and the animal can dramatically reduce the energy. Some materials block certain waves of light more than others. For example, glass tends to transmit visible light, but significantly block infrared and UV. The sizer of the enclosure effects this. A large enclosure with larger distances will need a more powerful bulb to accomplish the same results as a small lamp in a smaller enclosure. Thermometers and UV sensing cards can help to adjust and modify the lamp arrangement as needed.

My recommended strategy for an enclosure with artificial lighting is to decide the appropriate background temperature and select ceramic and incandescent lamps as needed to maintain that temperature with a thermostat. If natural room temperature is adequate, that helps to make the setup easier. Ceramic lamps are good a night when no visible light is desired. Incandescent lamps are good for daytime heating use. Many reptiles expect the natural heat to come from above which is a plus for lamps over heat pads. Since incandescent lamps are the quickest to burn out, consider using several redundant incandescent bulbs in your setup to maintain reliable lighting and heating.

UV lighting is important for vitamin D3 and calcium metabolism. Therefore, the needed UV lighting depends on the animal's diet and intake of calcium, vitamin D3, and foods that interfere with those vitamins and minerals as well as the species. In general I think UV lamps, unless they are really intense, should be on for 12 hours per day at a fixed time controlled by a timer. The time is probably better for the animal's mental health over its physical health, because most turtles are active at dawn and dusk hours, not mid-day hours when they tend to hide from light. For basking purposes the UV and incandescent heat lamps should focus on the common basking area to more closely simulate sunlight. I find that live plants need different lighting from reptiles, so sometimes include a low power plant light that activates for 1 hour at midday. This is improves the plant growth, and the animals tend to rest in the shade at this time. However, indoor lighting for reptiles will likely only support plants that grow in shade, such as African violets and prayer plants.

As for cost, whatever you spend on the lamps and bulbs, consider that the electric timers will probably cost about $10 per unit and the reptile thermostats cost about $30 per unit.