Keeping my WC Russian stress to a minimum

[wiccan_chicken]

Hello.

I recently acquired a new Russian T, and was told she was Wild Caught.
I have had her three days now, and she has not eaten at all. I have seen her drink during a nice long soak yesterday, and I know she visits her water bowl due to the substrate that frequently ends up in there.

I wanted to know ways to reduce her stress of adapting to the captive world. I plan on leaving her alone for a week besides giving fresh water and offering food.

So far the food has gone trampled and dried by the heat light.
I can understand she is scared, and stressed, is there any way to reduce that, anything I can do?

I haven't had experience with a wild caught tortoise before. So Any help is welcome!

Even just general guidelines on keeping a tortoise hydrated during this time of settling in is useful. I want to keep my girl healthy, and help her settle in.

Thank you for your time!

 

[sibi]

How sure are you that was a wild caught? Who and where did you get her from? The only advice I have is to try putting her food away from the heat source, and give her plenty of room to roam about. One other thing that is Important is to see a vet. Often, WC torts have parasites and worms that can be very damaging to them. I would keep her isolated from other torts that you may have for quite a few months until you can be sure that she's cleared of all parasites.

 

[Minority1]

Agreed. Food should be placed away from basking spot. It is highly recommended to have WC tortoises get checked by a vet. If the Russian is healthy it'll eventually eat, be patient.

You can find all the answers you need by searching Russian tortoise caresheet info on the interweb. If you have any "specific" questions then feel free to ask.

 

[wiccan_chicken]

How sure are you that was a wild caught? Who and where did you get her from? The only advice I have is to try putting her food away from the heat source, and give her plenty of room to roam about. One other thing that is Important is to see a vet. Often, WC torts have parasites and worms that can be very damaging to them. I would keep her isolated from other torts that you may have for quite a few months until you can be sure that she's cleared of all parasites.

I ordered her from Reptmart.com and emailed them and was told she was wild caught. She cane with a notice signed by a vet saying she was healthy and checked over by a vet.

I have no other torts at the moment, and I always wash my hands after handling her or things of hers.

I was just wondering if there were different ways to decrease stress in the tort. I have left her alone and only lights are turned on/off, water changed or food replaced. I'm hoping she eats soon, and if she doesn't by the one week mark, what should I do to keep her hydrated and get some nutrients in her?

 

[tortadise]

Have you had a fecal done? WC russians especially have parasite loads. This is a big percentage of anemic animals in this species. I would recommend a fecal asap.

 

[lynnedit]

How sure are you that was a wild caught? Who and where did you get her from? The only advice I have is to try putting her food away from the heat source, and give her plenty of room to roam about. One other thing that is Important is to see a vet. Often, WC torts have parasites and worms that can be very damaging to them. I would keep her isolated from other torts that you may have for quite a few months until you can be sure that she's cleared of all parasites.

I ordered her from Reptmart.com and emailed them and was told she was wild caught. She cane with a notice signed by a vet saying she was healthy and checked over by a vet.

I have no other torts at the moment, and I always wash my hands after handling her or things of hers.

I was just wondering if there were different ways to decrease stress in the tort. I have left her alone and only lights are turned on/off, water changed or food replaced. I'm hoping she eats soon, and if she doesn't by the one week mark, what should I do to keep her hydrated and get some nutrients in her?

A fecal is a good idea (although their vet may have done this, never hurts to be careful).
They can go quite a while w/o eating. Does she look healthy otherwise? Clear eyes, nose, etc.? Has she passed urates or poo in the water?

I also tend to feed my torts partway down the enclosure (when they are inside), and mist the food, so it doesn't dry out so soon! (Torts do eat dried weeds too, when they eat).

However, in answer to your question, it sounds as if you are doing everything you currently can to reduce her stress.
The soaks may stress her but are important. Otherwise, your inclination to pick her up as little as possible is good. However, you can go watch her, sit next to her, and clean and service the enclosure. In fact, doing this 3-4x per day will get her used to you (she will realize that you, as a human, are not necessarily a predator!). Move slowly and carefully.
If you have to move her from one place to another, carry her in a small opaque container or box, so she isn't carried through the air (which is what predators do).
Try to have at least two hides, and rocks or logs for interest. Perhaps a house plant in a pot submerged in the soil.
Make sure your temps are correct: basking/cool/middle, and that the enclosure is well lit (sometimes more than one bulb is needed for heat unless you are using a tube fluorescent).

 

[wiccan_chicken]

How sure are you that was a wild caught? Who and where did you get her from? The only advice I have is to try putting her food away from the heat source, and give her plenty of room to roam about. One other thing that is Important is to see a vet. Often, WC torts have parasites and worms that can be very damaging to them. I would keep her isolated from other torts that you may have for quite a few months until you can be sure that she's cleared of all parasites.

I ordered her from Reptmart.com and emailed them and was told she was wild caught. She cane with a notice signed by a vet saying she was healthy and checked over by a vet.

I have no other torts at the moment, and I always wash my hands after handling her or things of hers.

I was just wondering if there were different ways to decrease stress in the tort. I have left her alone and only lights are turned on/off, water changed or food replaced. I'm hoping she eats soon, and if she doesn't by the one week mark, what should I do to keep her hydrated and get some nutrients in her?

A fecal is a good idea (although their vet may have done this, never hurts to be careful).
They can go quite a while w/o eating. Does she look healthy otherwise? Clear eyes, nose, etc.? Has she passed urates or poo in the water?

I also tend to feed my torts partway down the enclosure (when they are inside), and mist the food, so it doesn't dry out so soon! (Torts do eat dried weeds too, when they eat).

However, in answer to your question, it sounds as if you are doing everything you currently can to reduce her stress.
The soaks may stress her but are important. Otherwise, your inclination to pick her up as little as possible is good. However, you can go watch her, sit next to her, and clean and service the enclosure. In fact, doing this 3-4x per day will get her used to you (she will realize that you, as a human, are not necessarily a predator!). Move slowly and carefully.
If you have to move her from one place to another, carry her in a small opaque container or box, so she isn't carried through the air (which is what predators do).
Try to have at least two hides, and rocks or logs for interest. Perhaps a house plant in a pot submerged in the soil.
Make sure your temps are correct: basking/cool/middle, and that the enclosure is well lit (sometimes more than one bulb is needed for heat unless you are using a tube fluorescent).

When I got her, she had pooed in transport, and has only pooped once the day she arrived and I still have it, but its a few days old. I'm not sure if it would be viable, also, the only "reptile" vet within two hours of me isnt very good, when my boyfriends now dead snake was sick, the doctor did no tests on him at all, no fecals, nothing just said he thought it was an URI and said he would prescribe meds and call back when they came in. Among other bad advice. A week later Aztek was dead, and the vet has never called us.

Her eyes are clear, her butt (don't know how to spell cloaca or clouca etc right) was very clean, I weighed her and she was 336g when she got here. Very active. So she looks healthy.

I most definatley keep her food as fr away from the light as possible. Misting it is a good idea though, I'll have to do that.
I also plan to go add moisture to her substrate while soaking her in a moment, as her skin seems to be peeling off.. and I don't know what causes it. But she will get a nice soak while I dampen everything.

I watch her often, mainly she sits on her two rocks and basks. Now when I replace water or food, she doesn't retreat all the way into her shell, she keeps her head slightly out to watch me, so she seems to be getting used to me.

When I carry her anywhere, or soak her I have a plastic tub that used to hold ice cream, and I carry her in that. She also gets her soaks in that as well. It's nice and opaque. And I always put a wash rag in the bottom for traction.

I am in the process of growing my own seeds for my tort to eat (when she finally does) and I was thinking on planting a dandelion in the corner that really doesn't have much since the hide takes up most of it.

If you'd like, I can show you a picture of my set up? It is much bigger than is seems, she's in a fifty gallon tub.

 

[tortadise]

Pictures would be great. One single fecal never defines a clear and ok exemption from parasite. Protazoa can be very crafty. Sometimes (especiallyin russians) can only be caught through various exams of microscopy analysis. I would soak her ounce to 2 times a day and keep doing what your doing. Sometimes eapecially wild caught specimens take time to adjust to captive(restrictive and new) environments.

 

[BeeBee*BeeLeaves]

Everyone has given excellent suggestions. I just want to share that I went through hell when I got my two Greeks last year from PetSmart. Poor babies, once I read more to understand my impulsive buy (I can't just leave them there - oy!) I realized that these babies were freaked out: plucked from their native land - desert to truck - rolling, colliding with other pluckees, to broker to USA to store (and mine had been there for awhile I guess) to me, the inexperienced in Greeks person. Although grandpa had 4 CDTs, 61 years old now, born in 1952, that live like kings in my bro's ranch and I saw how grandpa cared big-time for his 4 babies. But still, these are a different part of the world, and different species.

Anyhow, point is, stress, shell shocked, freaked out. Would not eat. Shy. Would withdraw into their shells. Days into week, into 2nd week. Now I was freaking out thinking I would kill them. I did not want to be a tortoise killer! Google. I found this forum and read-read-read, and found out about the soaks that Yvonne and Maggie suggested. Did it twice a day, morning with baby food, carrot or squash as suggested to keep nutrients going in somehow. Upped the temps, gave them sun/shade/fresh air, put them in the garden supervised. They finally ate. And pooped. OMG, they pooped and ate! Happy!

Now they come when they see me. I am the spa lady and the food goddess. I rule for them. Love 'em to bits! Hope my cray cray experience helps you! Be patient! Lil Russian needs to chill, feel secure, know that he/she is home, and sense safety! : )

 

[wiccan_chicken]

Everyone has given excellent suggestions. I just want to share that I went through hell when I got my two Greeks last year from PetSmart. Poor babies, once I read more to understand my impulsive buy (I can't just leave them there - oy!) I realized that these babies were freaked out: plucked from their native land - desert to truck - rolling, colliding with other pluckees, to broker to USA to store (and mine had been there for awhile I guess) to me, the inexperienced in Greeks person. Although grandpa had 4 CDTs, 61 years old now, born in 1952, that live like kings in my bro's ranch and I saw how grandpa cared big-time for his 4 babies. But still, these are a different part of the world, and different species.

Anyhow, point is, stress, shell shocked, freaked out. Would not eat. Shy. Would withdraw into their shells. Days into week, into 2nd week. Now I was freaking out thinking I would kill them. I did not want to be a tortoise killer! Google. I found this forum and read-read-read, and found out about the soaks that Yvonne and Maggie suggested. Did it twice a day, morning with baby food, carrot or squash as suggested to keep nutrients going in somehow. Upped the temps, gave them sun/shade/fresh air, put them in the garden supervised. They finally ate. And pooped. OMG, they pooped and ate! Happy!

Now they come when they see me. I am the spa lady and the food goddess. I rule for them. Love 'em to bits! Hope my cray cray experience helps you! Be patient! Lil Russian needs to chill, feel secure, know that he/she is home, and sense safety! : )

I got my girl from Reptmart, so she was shipped to me. Being on UPS I can understand why she is so freaked. They were turning her every which way and it was like THERES AN ANIMAL IN THERE!

She's gotten better, she doesn't recede into her shell all the way anymore, and kinda watches me.

About the carrots etc, could I take the whole ones I have, shred them and grind them up to put in her bath? I know people use baby food but why not just use what I have. Is it for if she drinks she gets nutrients?

I was taking her outside for a little bit a day when the weather was nice and she seems to perk up, but gets very sad and scratches at her tub when I put her back. I was told by a few people that letting her get used to her tub first was a good idea. I just don't have a uvb light, but I know she can be left without it for a little bit.

Sounds like everyone has gone through the horrors of wild caught tortoises at some point. I just want to do right by her and give her a good life.

Next time she poops I will try and get a fecal done. I have to find a good reptile vet first.

Just got my boyfriends new Ball Python girl to eat today, now it's Vodkas turn.

Pictures soon!

---

Here are a few pictures of my girl Vodka. Her shell is really nice and round, and highly domed. The only thing I wish was different is it looks worn and dry, and one of the scutes on her right side is chipped, the ones on the bottom near her feet. But it adds character

At the moment, her skin seems to be peeling off, so I am going to soak her once a day, though she won't like me very much, it has to be done.

 

[lynnedit]

Your enclosure looks great!
Is her food dish on the second level? That is a great idea, once she is eating. You might consider 1) feeding her down below until she is eating regularly and 2) using a tile or piece of slate to feed her on to help keep her beak trimmed.
Only feed carrots (high in sugar) occasionally; for example, throw in part of a whole carrot monthly, also to keep the beak trimmed.
The baby food soaks are different: strained carrots or sweet potatoes mixed with warm water and used for tortoises that are ill. It can help stimulate appetite, so won't hurt. They get some nutrition with these when they drink and even may absorb some through the cloaca area.
The fact that she is active is a very good sign; you should keep up with soaks and doing what you are doing! She may not defecate until she eats again, so no worries since you have seen her go.

---

PS. Never mind, I see the second level is her water dish.

 

[wiccan_chicken]

Your enclosure looks great!
Is her food dish on the second level? That is a great idea, once she is eating. You might consider 1) feeding her down below until she is eating regularly and 2) using a tile or piece of slate to feed her on to help keep her beak trimmed.
Only feed carrots (high in sugar) occasionally; for example, throw in part of a whole carrot monthly, also to keep the beak trimmed.
The baby food soaks are different: strained carrots or sweet potatoes mixed with warm water and used for tortoises that are ill. It can help stimulate appetite, so won't hurt. They get some nutrition with these when they drink and even may absorb some through the cloaca area.
The fact that she is active is a very good sign; you should keep up with soaks and doing what you are doing! She may not defecate until she eats again, so no worries since you have seen her go.

---

PS. Never mind, I see the second level is her water dish.

---

I saw the idea on a youtube video actually! I thought hey, great way to utilize space! So her water and cuttlebone are kept up there. This way she doesn't eat her substrate when she nibbles on the cuttlebone, and her water stays clean unless she lays in it.

I was thinking of when I get home from school today, to shred the carrots, and then grind them down further and add that and any juice it creates to her soak to increase appetite.

I might soak her every other day, so she isn't bothered every day, and I take her outside when it's warm enough since I don't have a UVB light (since I don't need one just yet)

Though, lately when I turn her light off at eleven, she's in the corner with the thinner stone, and doesn't move the rest of the night and sleeps there. That kind of worries me but as long as she sleeps I guess? I just find it weird she won't move after the light is off.

Thank you!

 

[lynnedit]

Sometimes they sleep out in the open, especially if the rock has absorbed heat.
Try changing your 'lights on' hours to mimic the outside at bit more closely. on at 6pm, off at 6-7 pm.

Will you be creating an outside enclosure for the summer so she can get UV?

 

[wiccan_chicken]

Sometimes they sleep out in the open, especially if the rock has absorbed heat.
Try changing your 'lights on' hours to mimic the outside at bit more closely. on at 6pm, off at 6-7 pm.

Will you be creating an outside enclosure for the summer so she can get UV?

I turn the light on at seven when I get up for school, and turn it off when it gets dark outside at eight. Since I stay up till eleven, I put a towel over her snclosure so it is dark, and remove it when I go to bed.

I was planning on using a kiddie pool we have. It is a turtle kiddie pool we have had for a while, and I wanted to see if it was tall enough. I have no where in my yard I can build an enclosure, since the back is occupied by dogs, and the front is heavily planted with bushes and trees.
If the kiddie pool is large enough, I was going to plant weeds and what not in it so she has browsing food and shade.

I will look at it when I get home, and see if it is suitible.