Humidity help for Russian

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noved32

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I everyone, I'm new not only to here but to having a tortoise (Russian). I need help cause I have my tank (sliding glass door on the front 70 gal) for one Russian but just can't get humidity to stay low!! I use that ecodirt and i have three lamps (a 160w combined UVA/UVB/heat lamp, a black lamp-24 hrs- and a UVB lamp) just seem to always be between 43 degrees and 50 for the humidity depending on the day and weather.. Any suggestions or help would be great!! I have attached a photo of my tank! :). Ps supper excited about my Russian!!
 

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Laurie

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noved32 said:
I everyone, I'm new not only to here but to having a tortoise (Russian). I need help cause I have my tank (sliding glass door on the front 70 gal) for one Russian but just can't get humidity to stay low!! I use that ecodirt and i have three lamps (a 160w combined UVA/UVB/heat lamp, a black lamp-24 hrs- and a UVB lamp) just seem to always be between 43 degrees and 50 for the humidity depending on the day and weather.. Any suggestions or help would be great!! I have attached a photo of my tank! :). Ps supper excited about my Russian!!

It looks to me that you have a lot of lights going on there! Is there a reason you are using two UVB lamps? I would start off by checking your temperatures. There are four that you are going to need to know.

Basking temp- you want to measure this directly under your UVB combo bulb. You want this temp to be between 95-100F, (35-37C), if yours is 43C, this is much too hot.

Night time temp- Russians generally benefit from having a drop of temperature at night. If the ambient temp of your room does not go below 68-70F, (20-21C), you probably have no need for a CHE.

Cool side temp- The idea is to create a heat gradient. You want under your basking light to be the hottest with a decreasing temperature range as you move away from it. The cool end of your enclosure should be around the 70F (20-23C) mark.

Ambient temp- This temperature is the "overall temp" of your enclosure. This is basically the temp not under your basking light, but not all the way on your cool side either.

The temperature gradient is important because it allows your tortoise to regulate its own temperature. If its too hot, it will move to the cold side. Too cool, it will move towards the warmer side. Once you have your temperatures correct, your humidity should straighten itself out. I think with all those lights, your enclosure is probably too hot. If you are still having humidity issues, you can try not wetting the substrate too much, maybe switching to a smaller water dish.

Congratulations on getting a new Russian. I have three russians and enjoy them greatly. I hope I was some help! If not, others will be around to offer you some advice as well :)

Laura
 

GBtortoises

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When you add heat and moisture (water dish & substrate) to a nearly sealed enclosure such as the one in your photo you're essentially creating a humid greenhouse. With no air exchange the moisture (and heat) will build up rapidly and remain high. It also appears that the light fixtures are sitting on glass. Maybe they're screens and it just doesn't show that way in the photo. But if they're glass the tortoise is not getting any UV benefit from the lights. Glass blocks most UV rays. Even with a screen top some of the UV rays are being blocked. There is really no need for the multiple UV lamps that you're using, one will do and there is absolutely no need for the black light. Tortoises require UV rays and heat to bask and for their body to process foods and wastes but too much, constant UV is not beneficial. Either one MVB bulb can be used at one end of the enclosure which will produce UV rays, light and basking heat at one end and towards the middle of the enclosure or a standard incandescent bulb (60-100 watt depending upon temperature needs) can be used at one end in conjunction with a UV florescent tube light nearly the entire length of the enclosure. This combination produces a localized warm spot (basking area) general, lower temperature heat for the rest of the enclosure and less intense UV rays throughout the entire enclosure. Tortoises, especially temperate climate tortoises such as Russians, require a temperature gradient throughout their enclosure in order to better regulate their body temperature.
Adult Russians should have a basking temperature of about 95-110 degrees fahrenheit directing under the center beam of the basking light with ambient daytime temperatures in the mid 70's to low 80's throughout the rest of the enclosure. Night time temperatures should not be above 65 if at all possible and even cooler, much cooler is better, as low as 50 degrees with around 60 being fine. Ambient humidity should be in the 45-55 range. Occasionally slightly higher is fine as long as the temperatures are warmer. Basically Russians do better when they're drier on top of the ground and have some moisture when they're below ground.
 

Yvonne G

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Hi noved32:

Welcome to the Tortoise Forum!!

When we tout all the humidity for raising smooth tortoises, we're really talking mainly about leopards and sulcatas. We're also talking about the first year of a tortoise's life. So if your Russian is bigger/older than a year, the humidity isn't as important. It would have been nice to see your tortoise in the habitat, then we would know if the tank is too small. In my opinion, a Russian tortoise needs to be outside. Russians require a lot of room to roam. They are fast little tortoises and do a lot of walking. Being indoors in a small tank isn't optimum for them.

What would you like us to call you?

..and may we know appx. where in the world you are?
 

noved32

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Hi once again... U can call my Devon (I'm a girl) and I live in Michigan so my Russian who we named Bob will only be out side at times . For example it was June 1 two days ago and it rained and never got above 55degreeS ... Anyways... I my tank has screens and two sliding glass doors to allows for added air flow. I have three lights only because using one on one side made the other side cold and dark.. If I put the combo lamp closer to the middle then there was no cool spots.. So I got a basic light bulb which just happen to have UVB in it for the other side.. Making that left side the cool 70 degree side. The basking combo bulb never goes above 97 during the day on the left side and the middle has a small night blue (not black) light for night and to make overall temp in there about 72-73 degrees.. Humidity is now 45 percent in the middle and 52 by the left side (cool side) and that's also where water dish is... I will take another photo with bob in it! Thanks for help.. Still welcome all help and comments!!!
 

JoesMum

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Russians really need space as they get older... The more the better. I'd start anning a table for yours. The humidity won't be so high and there'll be more room.

You don't need to spend a fortune, a second hand bookcase with the shelves knocked out is great :)
 

Tom

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In addition to the above advice: Are you using one of those coil type bulbs as your second UV bulb? They can damage tortoise eyes. Also, that water bowl is great for lizards, but terrible for tortoises. Another members tortoise just drowned in that very same bowl. It is too deep, too slick and the sides are to steep and tall. I found terra cotta plant saucers to be just the right size and they are cheap too.

Just to put it in my own words, I think you are making your lighting and heating too complicated. Simply put that 160 watt mercury vapor bulb on a timer over one end, and VOILA!, you are done! Unless the inside of your house drops to near freezing every night, a russian doesn't need night heat. If you want it brighter, you can drop a strip light florescent (like the type that sit on top of an aquarium) on top and put it on the same timer as the heat bulb.
 

noved32

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Here a photo of Bob..
 

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Jacob

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You dont need high humidity temps for raising a Prussian.
 

GeoTerraTestudo

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Jacob said:
You dont need high humidity temps for raising a Prussian.

There are no tortoises native to Prussia (Germany). Russia on the other hand ... :p

Anyway, the OP was not concerned about raising the humidity level (not temperature) above 50%, but rather lowering it below 50%. Either way, it doesn't matter. As long as they have a good substrate, steppe tortoises are fine in a wide range of relative humidity, from about 10-70%.
 
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