Heating large enclosure

jmitch

New Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2023
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1
Location (City and/or State)
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Hello all,

This summer, we moved to a near state. We had a lovely outdoor enclosure for our beloved Russian, but tragedy struck, as a drought this year drove raccoons in our area to start eating turtles. The local box turtle population was decimated, and though our outdoor enclosure was tortoise-proof, it was not raccoon proof.

We got a new Russian from a reputable breeder, and he arrived in good health. He now lives in a large (8ft by 4ft) indoor enclosure. Substrate has a layer of plain cedar mulch down very deep, then a layer of plain topsoil, then a thick layer of coco coir.

The enclosure has dandelions and other broadleaf tortoise-appropriate plants growing in it…yet the tortoise is still not eating.

He’s active and routinely visits his terra cotta soaking dish. He has a basking spot with a hide at one end (temp of 98 under the light out of the hide), and a deep hide at the cool end of the paddock. He regularly moves around between the two.

The cool end gets down to about 70 at night, though the warm end has a ceramic heater over it so it’s never below 80 in the warm hide. Both sides have full spectrum UV lamps on them for him and the plants.

But he isn’t eating. The dandelions and other tasty plants our old tortoise devoured are untouched.

I expected an adjustment period, but he’s been with us over six weeks now. So I’ve become concerned. I’ve begun soaking him daily in warm water, but I have not yet noticed an increase in appetite.

Any advice on a better way to heat the large enclosure, or any other good steps, would be appreciated.
 

wellington

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Chicago, Illinois, USA
Cedar and soil should not be used. Russians will dig down, so even the cedar can be gotten to. Use the coir on bottom and orchid bark on top of just one of the two.
Your temps are good, except what is the basking temp? They need to bask under an incandescent flood bulb that reaches 95-100 at tortoise height or they can't digest their food.
Tortoises also don't take to new homes right away. Also this time of year a lot of Russians are slowing down trying to brumate. Seeing you haven't had him long, you should keep him up this winter. Make sure the enclosure is brightly lighted for 12-14 hours a day.
 

Tom

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Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
Hello all,

This summer, we moved to a near state. We had a lovely outdoor enclosure for our beloved Russian, but tragedy struck, as a drought this year drove raccoons in our area to start eating turtles. The local box turtle population was decimated, and though our outdoor enclosure was tortoise-proof, it was not raccoon proof.

We got a new Russian from a reputable breeder, and he arrived in good health. He now lives in a large (8ft by 4ft) indoor enclosure. Substrate has a layer of plain cedar mulch down very deep, then a layer of plain topsoil, then a thick layer of coco coir.

The enclosure has dandelions and other broadleaf tortoise-appropriate plants growing in it…yet the tortoise is still not eating.

He’s active and routinely visits his terra cotta soaking dish. He has a basking spot with a hide at one end (temp of 98 under the light out of the hide), and a deep hide at the cool end of the paddock. He regularly moves around between the two.

The cool end gets down to about 70 at night, though the warm end has a ceramic heater over it so it’s never below 80 in the warm hide. Both sides have full spectrum UV lamps on them for him and the plants.

But he isn’t eating. The dandelions and other tasty plants our old tortoise devoured are untouched.

I expected an adjustment period, but he’s been with us over six weeks now. So I’ve become concerned. I’ve begun soaking him daily in warm water, but I have not yet noticed an increase in appetite.

Any advice on a better way to heat the large enclosure, or any other good steps, would be appreciated.
Cedar is toxic. Are you sure it isn't fir bark, aka: orchid bark?

Soil should never be used as tortoise substrate.

What type of UV lamps are you using? The wrong ones sometimes burn their eyes, produce no UV or produce way too much UV.

Plants don't need UV. They just need bright light of the correct spectrum.

What size is your new tortoise? Baby or adult? "Reputable breeders" seldom sell adults. Breeders typically sell babies. This means its likely that you have a wild caught adult, and those often take a lot of time to adapt to captivity. Daily warm soaks will help a lot.

Much more here, and look for the temperate species care sheet at the bottom:
 

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