Enclosure lighting night mare

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bikerchicspain

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If plastic starts to melt which it would being on top of a heat source it will give of toxic fumes and that's if you are lucky.

Just aim it straight down the tort will find the warmest spot and bathe in it, don't fret to much, it's difficult to get the perfect temps, as long as they are active and eating.
They are ok.
 

Madkins007

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I know this can seem like a lot of stuff to keep track of. Tortoises have a reputation of being easy pets, but for most of us, especially in the colder parts of the world, we have to learn how to manage heating, lighting, humidity, diet, etc. and it ain't easy.

It is even harder since there are no perfect answers- your location, the environment of the room, the type and size of enclosure, your budget, etc. all affect the bottom line.

If I were going to set up a 29 gallon tank, here is what I personally would do. it is not the cheapest way to do it, but it is easy to use when it is working.

1. Understand that the tort will outgrow this in a couple years, so think about how to transfer the stuff to future habitats. (For example, see the note about the domes in point #3a)

2. Use a medium-large ceramic heat emitter, mounted in a heat-resistant clamp-light socket purchased at a hardware store. Find a style with a wide-spread dome. Position it over the tank pointing straight down on one end to make a hot spot that is just under 90F most of the time.

2.a. Clamp lights are notorious for failing at the worst time, so consider making a simple over-the-tank rack or other stand so the lamp can hang from it instead of trusting the clamps.

2.b. To control the heat, I would use a simple thermostatic controller. Zoo-med makes a fairly cheap one that works well enough. While not perfect, it makes things easier and safer.

3. Light and UVB the habitat with a 24" 5.0 (or lower UVB rating) long fluorescent light with a timer to run for about 6 hours in the middle of the day.

3.a. I would also use a low-wattage standard incandescent bulb, or even a plain coiled fluorescent bulb, to provide a better white balance, and a 'dawn/dusk' by setting it to run for 12 hours a day and positioning it well above the tank to illuminate the whole thing easily. You can mount it in another dome clamp light if you want. I buy ALL of my clamp lights in the wide dome heat-resistant versions for safety and so I can use them however I want.

4. I would use about 2" or so of cypress mulch as a substrate, and fill it about 1" with warm water to generate humidity. I would also add live leafy plants, in their pots, for more humidity, looks, and hiding places.

5. If I still needed more heat (and here in Omaha, I do), I would add waterproof heat ropes in the substrate. These take a little finangling to do well, but gently warm the substrate to the mid 80's, and as a bonus- generate a lot of great humidity. You do need to add water daily to keep them wet so they work right.

6. Good hides and a big water dish would pretty much finish things up.

HOWEVER, there are many other ways to accomplish the same things, so don't be afraid to keep asking for ideas and advice!
 

judy wayte

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hi i have a red foot i use a mvb bulb and have a che i use a brooder fixture for both of them i have it so i can raise or lower them to adjust the temps. i also use plastic around and over the the whole enclosure to keep it humid.she lives in a rubber maid tub 50 gal. hope this helps.
 
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