Easy red foot enclosure .

mike taylor

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Cyprus doesn't hold as much humidity . But you can mix it . I set my uvb on the times they're most active .
 

Rover15

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I love that you continuously update.

What point do you concider then to out grow this set up?

Also knowing you have a proper uvb meter and assuming its the same light installed 6 months ago what are your readings out of curiosity
 

Rover15

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how big were they when they were hatched? seems like they outgrew it fast.

box turtles grow a lot slower so it could be a good set up for a year or two I would imagine.
I don't see way it wouldn't work .

exactly and with their slower growth could last a lot longer it was why I was asking questions about the UVB light reading.... I don't have any babies or any that would fit this setup but I'm always looking and reading about other peoples enclosure and builds
 

mike taylor

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how big were they when they were hatched? seems like they outgrew it fast.

box turtles grow a lot slower so it could be a good set up for a year or two I would imagine.



exactly and with their slower growth could last a lot longer it was why I was asking questions about the UVB light reading.... I don't have any babies or any that would fit this setup but I'm always looking and reading about other peoples enclosure and builds
Yeah,I hear you . As long as you get them outside in the sun an hour a day you don't really need UVB lights . So it's that much cheaper . I'm moving my little reds outside very soon . Hopefully before hatch !
 

Rover15

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Yeah,I hear you . As long as you get them outside in the sun an hour a day you don't really need UVB lights . So it's that much cheaper . I'm moving my little reds outside very soon . Hopefully before hatch !
I would need UVB over winter unless I hibernate them but i'm in Ontario we still have winter weather right now.
 

mike taylor

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Yeah,you would . They grow a lot faster than box turtles for sure. I like getting them outside as fast as possible . Seems they do better .
 

mike taylor

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Nice ! Try using the ceramic heat emitters. They're nice on a thermostat. No worries about over heating the enclosure.
 

CherryCupcake

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I'm currently building one of these and was concerned about the heat from the CHE as well, since mine easily gets to 600 degrees F (on the flat part of the bulb). Those things get hot!!

Using one of those laser heat thermometers, I turned the lamp on, waited about 30 minutes and then took readings all around the ceramic part of the lamp itself, since that's where the lamp gets hottest. The highest reading I got was 160 degrees F. Then looked up the melting point of the plastic bin. I have a Sterilite bin, and found that the melting point is around 330 degrees F. So there is no way that the ceramic lamp can melt this plastic.

I'm feeling much less worried about putting this all together this way -- and wanted to share in case anyone else was hesitating for the same reason. :)

This thread has been so helpful for me, as I'm a newbie at all of this. I'll post again once I get my enclosure together.
 

Ernie Johnson

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If you use 100 watt HE's and they're spaced 18 inches apart and each one is 15 inches away from the substrate in an enclosed pen it shouldn't get any hotter than 100-105 under it. I used two in our 4x8 foot enclosed RF pen and it kept it a nice 80-90 degrees year round across the pen with 100-105 directly under the HE's.
 

mike taylor

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The key is to place the thermocouple close as you can to the che . It will turn off way before it gets close to 100 degrees . You don't need a basking spot for reds . What I do is take them out on the porch in a plastic container for a soak and let them hangout in the sun/ shade . I let them soak for about 30/40 minutes a day . Pictures don't do them justice. But here you go . IMG_20180719_183821737.jpeg IMG_20180719_183811279_HDR.jpeg
 

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