Like mushy and when I put food out yes he eats it and he sleeps a lot but has always slept a lot since I’ve got him.Is it soft like a butter container lid, or soft like mushy? Has the tortoise been eating and otherwise acting normal?
It’s a Greek and it eats and I haven’t seen him poop not lately, I feed about every other day I feed him mustard greens.What type of species it’s it? The black coloring doesn’t look normal, probably because it don’t know what species it is. Is it eating and pooping?
Where did you get this tortoise? What is the humidity in your enclosure? What are your basking, cool side, and night temps?Like mushy and when I put food out yes he eats it and he sleeps a lot but has always slept a lot since I’ve got him.
I bought it from a pet shop and the humid I do not know and I don’t know any of my temps but I have a heat emitter and yes I have a UVB light a 10.0uvb from zoo-med,Where did you get this tortoise? What is the humidity in your enclosure? What are your basking, cool side, and night temps?
Do you have UVB lighting? What kind?
Does this tortoise get outdoors often, or has it only stayed indoors?
Hatchling shells are normally a little flexible, but mushy is not normal.
It is very important, crucial really, to know the temperatures of an animal that can’t regulate its own. You need digital thermometers and hygrometers ASAP, or a temp gun for the thermometers.I bought it from a pet shop and the humid I do not know and I don’t know any of my temps but I have a heat emitter and yes I have a UVB light a 10.0uvb from zoo-med,
And no outdores only inside and I mean it can be flexible but just feels weird and doesn’t look right to me and to me he has cracks also in the middle idk if that is normal either
It is very important, crucial really, to know the temperatures of an animal that can’t regulate its own. You need digital thermometers and hygrometers ASAP, or a temp gun for the thermometers.
Is the UVB a tube or a compact? How high above the enclosure?
can we get pictures of the enclosure?
give these a read. Russian Care is identical to Greeks.
Russian Tortoise Care Sheet https://tortoiseforum.org/index.php?threads/Russian-Tortoise-Care-Sheet.80698/
Beginner Mistakes https://tortoiseforum.org/index.php?threads/Beginner-Mistakes.45180/
Okay I will get a new bulbHere are a few things that need to be changed-
-That UVB bulb is a compact. They do not produce enough UVB, and are known to burn eyes. Turn it off for now, and be sure to get a 10.0 tube fluorescent.
-assuming the enclosure is a 20 gallon long, it’s too small. 40 is the minimum for hatchlings, but even that will only last a few months.
-clamp lamps are fire hazards. Your bulbs need to be coming straight down, either resting on the terrarium lid or hanging from a stand.
-your water bowl should be exchanged for a terra cotta saucer. They’re shallow, sloped, textured, and easier to use.
Okay but have you seen why it might be soft and that color ? Should I feed him more? Add more humidity ?You also need to have him in a closed chamber. For the time being, you can make a aluminum foil cover to go over the tank top. You will not be able to maintain the correct temps and humidity with it open topped.
You need to find something reasonably solid that fits the tank top. Then you cut holes in it for the lights to sit on. If you had plastic bin lids they would work. Just line your cut holes with aluminum foil so the lights don't melt the plastic.
Should I still soak ?Here are a few things that need to be changed-
-That UVB bulb is a compact. They do not produce enough UVB, and are known to burn eyes. Turn it off for now, and be sure to get a 10.0 tube fluorescent.
-assuming the enclosure is a 20 gallon long, it’s too small. 40 is the minimum for hatchlings, but even that will only last a few months.
-clamp lamps are fire hazards. Your bulbs need to be coming straight down, either resting on the terrarium lid or hanging from a stand.
-your water bowl should be exchanged for a terra cotta saucer. They’re shallow, sloped, textured, and easier to use.
Yes, definitely still soak. While discoloration can be a very bad sign, as it means the baby is taking calcium from the shell and is usually a sign of renal faliure, Greeks naturally have a black splotch on their plastron.Should I still soak ?
Okay thanks I will start feeding daily and still give it the regular soaks and work on keeping the humidity upYes, definitely still soak. While discoloration can be a very bad sign, as it means the baby is taking calcium from the shell and is usually a sign of renal faliure, Greeks naturally have a black splotch on their plastron.
your tortoise should have food available at all times, so if you aren’t doing it, then feed him more. Yes, your tortoise should have higher humidity. For this species, 60-80 and a humid hide works, but you can even do 80-100.
Also what foods should I feed it?Yes, definitely still soak. While discoloration can be a very bad sign, as it means the baby is taking calcium from the shell and is usually a sign of renal faliure, Greeks naturally have a black splotch on their plastron.
your tortoise should have food available at all times, so if you aren’t doing it, then feed him more. Yes, your tortoise should have higher humidity. For this species, 60-80 and a humid hide works, but you can even do 80-100.
Your tortoise should be getting mostly weeds from outside, and very little grocery store food.Also what foods should I feed it?
I think his whole shell is softYour tortoise should be getting mostly weeds from outside, and very little grocery store food.
This link goes over it pretty well, just skip the grass stuff.
For Those Who Have a Young Sulcata... https://tortoiseforum.org/index.php?threads/For-Those-Who-Have-a-Young-Sulcata....76744/
That could definitely be a problem. Be sure that you’re supplementing food with calcium, and I would even use calcium with D3. Get a proper UVB bulb ASAP. This could very well be metabolic bone disease.I think his whole shell is soft