I'm currently building a 4' x 8' fully enclosed indoor house for Clifton. I'm thinking that the high heat and humidity will eventually do a number on the wood. Can anyone recommend a coating for the inside that is safe? Would a water/vapor barrier type product be ok and safe once dried? If not, would anyone here have different suggestions?
Wooden indoor enclosure -humidity issues
- Thread starter Jackson
- Start date
I've used vinyl floor covering for the deck and up the sides on one of my enclosures. You do have to cut and seal the corners to get a good fit; but it will last years.
On another enclosure I used the vinyl flooring on just the bottom and sealed the wood sides with a brush on urethane.
I like the vinyl up the sides best because it wipes clean and doesn't allow climbing.
Good luck.
On another enclosure I used the vinyl flooring on just the bottom and sealed the wood sides with a brush on urethane.
I like the vinyl up the sides best because it wipes clean and doesn't allow climbing.
Good luck.
Ok, I found a 5' x 3' old table. I bought some shorter legs at Home Depot and attached them. Then I just started stacking 1" x 1" ( actuall 1.5") to get that "cabin effect. I build in some hides, and stacked accordingly in front in preparation for the Lexan window.This is where I'm at so far:
Last edited by a moderator:
That looks awesome!!
I like the design, but I foresee one problem. Many torts would use the gaps between the wood as climbing aids. You may need to put a smooth surface on the walls to prevent escape. I also think you need to make the walls taller on the end above the hides. While you're building, you may as well add another level. Put a ramp in leading to a overhanging extension above the hides. Have the overhang extend about a foot beyond the existing wall.
Good luck!
Good luck!
WillTort2 said:
I'm not very concerned about escape. The walls will be higher when finished and it will be enclosed for humidity ( a hinged top) . I was thinking of doing a second level. As far as the final height goes; I'm still uncertain. My current enclosure has the MVB and CHE about 14" from the floor 19" at the top of each fixture. But this old enclosure has a screen top (I have to pump in loads of humidity). If I go with 20" walls on the new enclosure I'm wondering how hot this will get and what kind of troubles ill have regulating temperature? I will have the CHE on a thermostat, but may have to dump the MVB and replace with long tube fluorescent bulbs?
As far as second levels go, will the ramp and second level need high walls? Do torts fall off things or are they gonna stop at the edge? I'd hate to see Clifton fall and flip over.
Coating the inside is my other issue?
Someone on here uses acrylic paint (I think it's GBTortoises) on the indoor habitats. They say the paint has held up for years and protects the wood from moisture.
Ok, I went to Home Depot, got the Lexan, Piano Hinge, and Sanded Plywood Top. I also ordered the thermostat and Window Type latches to hold the top tightly down ( maybe on some weather stripping) to prevent humidity escaping.
I may paint the whole thing white to match my interior.
Thank for the paint tip Yvonne, I'll look into it.
Last edited by a moderator:
That's really cool!!
Jessicapinkie1 said:
Thank you, I'm hoping Clifton will like it. He spends a lot of time outside now, but cold weather is coming.
My goal with this "cabin stacking" was to stain and varnish the exterior I think it's gonna look good.
15 square feet is going to be good for him, he's only about 4" now.
I was also thinking about laying down thick styrofoam and carving out a little river and waterfall, then cover it with grout and stones. This would then have to be sealed with some kind of paint.
I'm just not sure if the grout or paint is ok for Clifton?
Not sure but sounds cool.
I finally decided on a two-part/non toxic paint that is used on the inside of diving bells and hyperbaric chambers. It dries to a very hard surface and with a little food coloring...antique white.I'm still considering tile on the floor and 6" up the walls.
Last edited by a moderator:
thats looks so cool!
AnnV said:
I started setting it up. Not much to see yet.
I made a subsrate out of sphagnum, reptile bark and forest moss.
I closed the lid and wow....90% humidity.
I didn't even wet anything yet.
One 60 watt bulb and the cool spot is 77.
I'm amazed....this is gonna be so much easier.
Clifton is about 8 months old, he's a red foot, not sure what kind. I've heard all opinions on temperature. Some say never below 80 anywhere in the habitat...
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2013
- Messages
- 31
How are you guys making humidity ? That's probably such a silly question I know..but I'm lost. And I know you guys are experts!
sabnic said:
In a closed chamber humidity comes from evaporation. Usually a damp substrate is enough to maintain high humidity. The key is containing your warm humid air and not letting it escape into the room.
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2013
- Messages
- 31
Tom said:
I was doing research on how to make them. And one site was saying if you take a plastic tote and cut a hole just large enough for the tort to get in and out that it works pretty well. And the humidity stays inside. I think I will try this. And then the substrate being play sand and a type of soil..I screen shot the site to remember it. Since my sully is 5 years old, is the humidity as important to him now vs when he was just a hatchling? Does the importance follow through life?
Similar threads
New Posts
-
-
-
-
Setting up for a Russian Tortoise - Constructive comments welcome
- Latest: David Steere
-
