Russian tortoise night box

Jman14

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Hi, I Need to know how to make a night box for my two Russian tortoises to be honest I don’t really even know the night box is. It get around 50 at night and 80 in the day in Sacramento California right know, what is to cold at night for a Russian tortoise? Thank you if you are able to help me I’m just super confused with A bunch of things
 

Jman14

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And also what season do I start to prepare them for hibernation? Do I not feeding them for two weeks and I soak them two times a day is that correct?
 

Tom

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Hi, I Need to know how to make a night box for my two Russian tortoises to be honest I don’t really even know the night box is. It get around 50 at night and 80 in the day in Sacramento California right know, what is to cold at night for a Russian tortoise? Thank you if you are able to help me I’m just super confused with A bunch of things
Hi! Read this. It explains the whole night box thing and show pics of examples:

Scroll down to post #19 for the hibernation explanation:
 

Jman14

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Thank you so much I really worry about my Russian tortoises because I love them so much I appreciate the help???
 

Jman14

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Hi! Read this. It explains the whole night box thing and show pics of examples:

Scroll down to post #19 for the hibernation explanation:

im a little confused sorry, so what do I do if they’re in a outdoor enclosure do I look up how to make a night box for them. My mom usually just make sure to soak them more and don’t feed them for two weeks and then she puts them in a big bin Full of bedding in my garage, is this correct or is it deadly for them?
 

Tom

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im a little confused sorry, so what do I do if they’re in a outdoor enclosure do I look up how to make a night box for them. My mom usually just make sure to soak them more and don’t feed them for two weeks and then she puts them in a big bin Full of bedding in my garage, is this correct or is it deadly for them?
Read the part about the night boxes with the seasonal adjustments to temp and lighting. A box with bedding in the garage is probably too warm for much of the winter, and possibly too cold sometimes. It needs to be around 39 degrees to hibernate a Russian. A steady 39. Not 33 one night and then 68 a week later during a January warm spell. I use a fridge, after getting them ready by adjusting temps and lighting in the outdoor box.

This:
Outdoor Housing for Adults:
This is another controversial one. I've grappled with this one for years, and finally reached a solution that I think works for anyone anywhere, for at least part of each year, if not all year. The problem with outdoor housing is that the weather is unpredictable and seasons change. Its also difficult to lay out blanket advice that works for Southern California, Phoenix Arizona, Miami Florida, Seattle Washington, Upstate New York, and the UK. If it doesn't snow where you live, then this idea works year round. If you live in a cold, rainy climate, or the frozen North, then this idea works for part of the year, and can you can hibernate or bring your tortoise inside during the frozen months. Pictures first, then a description:

IMG_7256.JPG



IMG_7257.JPG



This is a double box made for my Chersina angulata. Male on one side, female on the other. I've used similar strategies for Russians and other temperate species. Why use a heated box for species that live in climates similar to mine? Because the weather seldom cooperates. Example: I put my animals down for hibernation in late November. All went well, and then temps really warmed up in February. Days in the 80s for weeks in a row, so I woke them, got them slowly warmed up and eating again and all was well... Until March showed up and got cold and rainy again. We had daytime highs in the 50s for weeks with rain and overcast skies. What does a person do when they don't have a temperature controlled shelter? They wait out the bad weather and hope for the best. Sometimes they get lucky, and sometimes the tortoise dies. I see this with Desert tortoises here all the time. They are at the mercy of Mother Nature, and she can be so cruel sometimes. Again, in the right climate, most tortoises can survive these unusual weather shifts and extremes, but I'm not interested in mere survival. I want what is "best". Optimal. Preferred. Premium.

In my climate we typically have warm sunny days and cold nights year round. Temperature swings of 30-40 degrees are normal from day to night all year. In spring and fall we have sunny days in the 70s or 80s, but nights in the 30s or 40s. If I'm preparing them to go into hibernation in fall, or I'm trying to bring them out of hibernation in spring. Night temps in the 30s are too cold. I set the mini radiant oil heater in my insulated box to give them their necessary night time temperate drop down to anywhere from 55-65, but not all the way down into the 30s. I don't keep them warm like a tropical species. I just keep the night temps cool, but not too cold. What about those cold rainy days after the tortoise is up from hibernation and already been eating during early spring warm spells? That is where the heat lamps come in. The radiant heater keeps the ambient from dropping too low, but a constant 55-60 degrees, day and night, for weeks on end during a spring cold spell after they've already got a gut full of food, is no good. They NEED to be able to warm up daily and digest their food. If the weather is warm and sunny, the heat lamps stay off and the tortoises can come out and bask in the sunshine when they want to warm up. If we get a cold spell in spring, or if I'm not ready to hibernate them just yet in fall because they still have food in their gut, the heat lamps allow them to warm up when the sun is hiding behind those thick cold clouds. These basking lamps are set on timers and they warm the ambient box temp a bit during the day while allowing the tortoise to bask and get its core temp up for digestion on an otherwise cold rainy day. I adjust the timers depending on the time of year. I gradually shorten the days in late fall in preparation for hibernation. I gradually up the times in spring after they wake up. In winter this box is unplugged because the tortoises are hibernating. In summer this box is unplugged because we have hot days and the nights are in the 60s. The extra heat is only used when needed, not all year in my climate. This combination of letting natural temps and seasons do their thing, but using some electric heat when needed to even out the weird weather extremes, works wonderfully. The best of both worlds. These boxes let my tortoise experience all four seasons, but help prevent sickness and hardships when the weather takes those unexpected turns in spring and fall. In the UK or Ireland, it might be best to leave the light timers and ambient heat set most of the year. In Phoenix, you might hardly ever need the heat or lights, but its nice to have it, just in case.

I use the water tubs to add some moderate humidity to the night boxes because my climate is extremely dry. In Florida or the UK, I probably wouldn't do that. Let your hygrometer be your guide.

An added advantage of these boxes, especially for the smaller species, is that I can lock them up at night to keep them safe from nocturnal predators. Every night I check to make sure each and every tortoise is in its box, and I latch the door closed. Then I open each door in the morning. This gives me tremendous peace of mind. I sleep much better at night knowing that the local predators can't get to my tortoises. It also puts my eyes on each and every tortoise every single day, which allows me to catch any minor problems before they become major problems. I've also caught a lot of nesting tortoises in the act when I've gone searching for them in the dark since they were not in their box.

This is not an "all or nothing" proposition. You can use a box like this for fair weather, and bring the tortoise inside during inclement weather. If you choose not to hibernate, you can try leaving the heat on in fall and winter, and see how your tortoise responds. You can use this style of box during the day and bring the tortoise inside at night. The possibilities are endless, but the main point is that this ability to use heat gives you options. I have a great climate for temperate species, so I use the heat sparingly and minimally to buy myself some extra time in early spring and late fall. If my climate were colder more of the time, I could use the heat more often to provide my tortoises with the correct conditions and prevent problems. Okay. Moving on...
 

AbeTheRussianTort

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Read the part about the night boxes with the seasonal adjustments to temp and lighting. A box with bedding in the garage is probably too warm for much of the winter, and possibly too cold sometimes. It needs to be around 39 degrees to hibernate a Russian. A steady 39. Not 33 one night and then 68 a week later during a January warm spell. I use a fridge, after getting them ready by adjusting temps and lighting in the outdoor box.

This:
Outdoor Housing for Adults:
This is another controversial one. I've grappled with this one for years, and finally reached a solution that I think works for anyone anywhere, for at least part of each year, if not all year. The problem with outdoor housing is that the weather is unpredictable and seasons change. Its also difficult to lay out blanket advice that works for Southern California, Phoenix Arizona, Miami Florida, Seattle Washington, Upstate New York, and the UK. If it doesn't snow where you live, then this idea works year round. If you live in a cold, rainy climate, or the frozen North, then this idea works for part of the year, and can you can hibernate or bring your tortoise inside during the frozen months. Pictures first, then a description:

IMG_7256.JPG



IMG_7257.JPG



This is a double box made for my Chersina angulata. Male on one side, female on the other. I've used similar strategies for Russians and other temperate species. Why use a heated box for species that live in climates similar to mine? Because the weather seldom cooperates. Example: I put my animals down for hibernation in late November. All went well, and then temps really warmed up in February. Days in the 80s for weeks in a row, so I woke them, got them slowly warmed up and eating again and all was well... Until March showed up and got cold and rainy again. We had daytime highs in the 50s for weeks with rain and overcast skies. What does a person do when they don't have a temperature controlled shelter? They wait out the bad weather and hope for the best. Sometimes they get lucky, and sometimes the tortoise dies. I see this with Desert tortoises here all the time. They are at the mercy of Mother Nature, and she can be so cruel sometimes. Again, in the right climate, most tortoises can survive these unusual weather shifts and extremes, but I'm not interested in mere survival. I want what is "best". Optimal. Preferred. Premium.

In my climate we typically have warm sunny days and cold nights year round. Temperature swings of 30-40 degrees are normal from day to night all year. In spring and fall we have sunny days in the 70s or 80s, but nights in the 30s or 40s. If I'm preparing them to go into hibernation in fall, or I'm trying to bring them out of hibernation in spring. Night temps in the 30s are too cold. I set the mini radiant oil heater in my insulated box to give them their necessary night time temperate drop down to anywhere from 55-65, but not all the way down into the 30s. I don't keep them warm like a tropical species. I just keep the night temps cool, but not too cold. What about those cold rainy days after the tortoise is up from hibernation and already been eating during early spring warm spells? That is where the heat lamps come in. The radiant heater keeps the ambient from dropping too low, but a constant 55-60 degrees, day and night, for weeks on end during a spring cold spell after they've already got a gut full of food, is no good. They NEED to be able to warm up daily and digest their food. If the weather is warm and sunny, the heat lamps stay off and the tortoises can come out and bask in the sunshine when they want to warm up. If we get a cold spell in spring, or if I'm not ready to hibernate them just yet in fall because they still have food in their gut, the heat lamps allow them to warm up when the sun is hiding behind those thick cold clouds. These basking lamps are set on timers and they warm the ambient box temp a bit during the day while allowing the tortoise to bask and get its core temp up for digestion on an otherwise cold rainy day. I adjust the timers depending on the time of year. I gradually shorten the days in late fall in preparation for hibernation. I gradually up the times in spring after they wake up. In winter this box is unplugged because the tortoises are hibernating. In summer this box is unplugged because we have hot days and the nights are in the 60s. The extra heat is only used when needed, not all year in my climate. This combination of letting natural temps and seasons do their thing, but using some electric heat when needed to even out the weird weather extremes, works wonderfully. The best of both worlds. These boxes let my tortoise experience all four seasons, but help prevent sickness and hardships when the weather takes those unexpected turns in spring and fall. In the UK or Ireland, it might be best to leave the light timers and ambient heat set most of the year. In Phoenix, you might hardly ever need the heat or lights, but its nice to have it, just in case.

I use the water tubs to add some moderate humidity to the night boxes because my climate is extremely dry. In Florida or the UK, I probably wouldn't do that. Let your hygrometer be your guide.

An added advantage of these boxes, especially for the smaller species, is that I can lock them up at night to keep them safe from nocturnal predators. Every night I check to make sure each and every tortoise is in its box, and I latch the door closed. Then I open each door in the morning. This gives me tremendous peace of mind. I sleep much better at night knowing that the local predators can't get to my tortoises. It also puts my eyes on each and every tortoise every single day, which allows me to catch any minor problems before they become major problems. I've also caught a lot of nesting tortoises in the act when I've gone searching for them in the dark since they were not in their box.

This is not an "all or nothing" proposition. You can use a box like this for fair weather, and bring the tortoise inside during inclement weather. If you choose not to hibernate, you can try leaving the heat on in fall and winter, and see how your tortoise responds. You can use this style of box during the day and bring the tortoise inside at night. The possibilities are endless, but the main point is that this ability to use heat gives you options. I have a great climate for temperate species, so I use the heat sparingly and minimally to buy myself some extra time in early spring and late fall. If my climate were colder more of the time, I could use the heat more often to provide my tortoises with the correct conditions and prevent problems. Okay. Moving on...

Tom:
I am going to make this night box. The box itself is easy to make. It’s going to be a cute tortoise “coop”.
Do you have a shopping list for this? Like, what kind of bulb and how many watts? How far is the lamp from the floor?
I am scared to do the hibernation, since this will be my first winter with Abe. I am planning to go to a reptile show in January and learn.

Please help giving me details of the items needed.
Many thanks!
 

Tom

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Tom:
I am going to make this night box. The box itself is easy to make. It’s going to be a cute tortoise “coop”.
Do you have a shopping list for this?
You won't learn anything good at a reptile show. You will get all the wrong info and you will experience terrible frustration. Use the info from this forum and nowhere else.







 
Last edited:

Tom

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Like, what kind of bulb and how many watts? How far is the lamp from the floor?
I usually start with a 65 watt bulb, but only your thermometer can tell you how far from the floor and what wattage you will need. If you make the box according to the same dimensions that I use, then a 65 watt should work the same for you as it does for me.

You won't be able to find or even order these bulbs in Cali. They made them illegal to sell. Someone out of state will have to order or buy them for you and ship them to you, or you can go out of state to get them yourself.
 

AbeTheRussianTort

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You won't learn anything good at a reptile show. You will get all the wrong info and you will experience terrible frustration. Use the info from this forum and nowhere else.








Thank you so very much!!
 

Alex and the Redfoot

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Why were these made illegal?
It's the global trend on reducing energy consumption. It's a "force push" to replace tungsten (incandescent) lamps in households with energy-efficient lamps (e.g. LEDs). Edge cases, such as basking spots in terrariums obviously have been overlooked.
 

Tom

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Why were these made illegal?
Because government has become over reaching and out of control. I switched to CFLs and then to LEDs voluntarily, way ahead of the curve because they are more efficient, save money, and just make sense over all. There was/is no need for the government to step in and force people under threat of law to switch. The market was already doing it and doing it well all on its own. Why would anyone want to buy a bulb that costs more, uses more electricity, burns out relatively quickly, and generates more heat when there is a better alternative already available for less money? There was no need for laws. No need for the citizens to be threatened with fines, business shut downs, imprisonment, and ultimately violence for non-compliance with government wishes. People would have bought the LEDs without the laws. We are in a sad state of affairs and it will not be easy to get back to where we should be.
 

SuzanneZ

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I still want the incan. to heat my chicks and now my torts. I want the choice. The LEDs hurt my eyes.
 

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