Have a digital one with a probe. He gets calcium about once every 2 days. He gets a couple pellets of mazuri every day mixed with wheat grass, mustard greens and collard greens.Gritty is not good. Soak more often and make sure your using a good humidity gauge, not one of those rounds disc ones, they are not reliable and that your reading temp and humidity at tort level. What is the diet and how often are you giving calcium?
Ok thanks for your information. Would there be a reason for it only happening when he gets soaked?I would feed less collards, they are high in calcium and add a bigger variety of food then just the few things you mentioned. Also cut the calcium you are giving to a small pinch once a week or not at all seeing your feed collards.
Thanks for your explanationTortoises that come from dry countries save their urine (they don't pee) until they have a water source to get new water from (puddle after the rain, etc.), so when you soak him, he gets rid of what he's been saving and gets a fresh supply. When they save their urine, it develops the uric acid, so when he pees, you see the urates.
I've used testudo mix from tortoise supply before as you have previously suggested, have you used african grazer grass mix from the same source?Here are some food suggestions:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/for-those-who-have-a-young-sulcata.76744/
I'll start spraying his food with water as you suggested. Ambient usually stays about 82 degrees, have a uv bulb tube style and have a piece of plexiglass over half of the enclosure and the other side is covered with foil due to the che and basking bulbs sitting on top of the screen cover and the uv bulb hangs from the screen cover.Plus, that little bit is not much to worry about. As well as soaking daily, and adding to his diet, sprinkle some water over his food. Do the suggested things, and I bet those gritty urates will turn creamy, then go away in a short time. What is the ambient temp in his enclosure? Do you use a UBV light? Is there a lid on his habitat?
I have the uv light hanging from the bottom of the screen so there's nothing between it and the inside of the enclosure.Screen cover? A note of info for you: Small screen effectively filters out the majority of beneficial UV rays. It's best if there's nothing between the light and the habitat.
Thanks for your advise. I've read on here that as long as it's above 80 with a humidity that high is ok but if I have to I can adjust it would rather be too cautious than not cautious enough. I am also concerned about pyramiding.I also have a small Sulcata, she's 2 months old, her humidity stays between 85 and 90% and her daytime temp is 90 degrees. I personally think 82 is too cool. For a baby like that and the high humidity, I'd worry about an URI, but...that's just me and I worry because Sulcata babies are so damn hard to raise. Maybe, I'm wrong. Someone will say if I am, I just told you how I keep Pansy I'm fostering her, and being very careful about pyramiding....
I've used testudo mix from tortoise supply before as you have previously suggested, have you used african grazer grass mix from the same source?
I have no sulcata, and am no expert, but I have leopards which are raised the same. 80-85 is a good over all temp with high humidity. 90-100 is needed for basking. I wouldn't personally do higher in the whole enclosure.Thanks for your advise. I've read on here that as long as it's above 80 with a humidity that high is ok but if I have to I can adjust it would rather be too cautious than not cautious enough. I am also concerned about pyramiding.
Wait for some comments from the Sulcata experts before you change anything. I do things differently, maybe mine is too hot, but I usually have special needs chelonia, so I am probably too cautious.