Outdoor Refoot Temps Daytime and Night Time

[LRTortoises]

I love keeping my redfoots outside fro as long as possible. They are a 2.4 group of large adults.

What is the low temp you would allow at night outside before bringing them in considering it still gets in the high 80s and low 90s in the shade during the day?


A sidenote. I feel like we need a tortoise forum pinned Redfoot care sheet? I have looked through the forum and can't find one. We have a great one on the Marginated Forum. Any reason why we don't have one here? Can we not all agree?

I have started working on one for my own reference and for the future if I have redfoot babies. If anyone else would like to edit and use it I can add you to it. It is a google doc and right now is set to let people comment.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ZHPGbPWGvrFEg5vYa7YQou-SNkXkp1ygwHgvkwgzRgo/edit?usp=sharing

 

[Yvonne G]

If you go to the Forum's home page, then scroll down to the bottom where all the other forums are listed - spiders, lizards, etc. you'll see one labelled Tortoise Library. This was compiled and written by one of our moderators, Madkins007. He has some very good info on RF tortoises in the library.

 

[Kapidolo Farms]

There seems to be a default night time low of 70F that people use in their night houses no matter the species. There are very few places on the earth's surface that stay that warm, at least as weather watchers go. However, If I were a tortoise I would not let myself be exposed a meter off the ground 24/7. I have to figure they all know where to go to preserve the warmth of the day, decomposing vegetation beings a good choice. In that case 70F is a good target temp.

For burrowers they can thermoregulate inside their burrows, but again, many burrowers modify their burrow (accidentally or intentionally?) with feces and non- previously digested plant matter, all of which releases warmth as they decompose. So even in burrows that lowest temp, even with snow or ice topside, might be in the mid to upper 40F if not higher.

The things is with redfoots they range from some of the few places on earth that do not go below 70F, to areas with annual winter frosts. So does that mean they can all tolerate it, or is it a selective pressure along a kline? They opportunistically use burrows too.

I'd stick with 70F. I'm sure others will offer POV's.

 

[LRTortoises]

If you go to the Forum's home page, then scroll down to the bottom where all the other forums are listed - spiders, lizards, etc. you'll see one labelled Tortoise Library. This was compiled and written by one of our moderators, Madkins007. He has some very good info on RF tortoises in the library.

I am sure the writer is a great person but if this is what you are talking about http://www.tortoiselibrary.com/species-information-2/chelonoidis/ Then as a hobbysist myself it seems we need something that's a bit more helpful.

@HermanniChris for the Marginated is so helpful for example. http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/marginated-tortoise-testudo-marginata-care-sheet.98564/ And I have seen some for the other species also.

Maybe it's not an issue. Don't mean to be a pain at all.

 

[LRTortoises]

I use http://redfoottortoise.com/generalcare.htm alot. I am just trying to format one that is easy for users to carry around.

 

[SouthernRFT]

Check this out
http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Red-Footed-Tortoise/

"The tortoises themselves can also handle surprisingly cold temperatures, as low as 45 degrees, with no problems. When nighttime temperatures drop below 50 degrees, a heated hide box should be provided that maintains at least 60 degrees at night (in the 70s is better), or the tortoises should be brought in during those times."

 

[SouthernRFT]

Also for your caresheet I think this is a great idea, but just your diet staple being vegetables over fruit I can't agree with. Wild redfoots eat lots and lots of fruit and zero vegetables naturally. They do consume greens in the form of naturally occurring plants but it is a small portion of total consumption. I do not know why so many caresheets put greens over fruits. I also think protein is more important for hatchlings then greens. Obviously a diet high in fruit and protein could be very hard on a tortoise who isn't able to stay hydrated. Also never feed (Grains) That would totally knock out original Mazuri diet which a lot of keepers use. I agree though grains are not at all natural for tortoises.
Please continue with your care sheet I think the more the better since we all have different methods and opinions on care.

 

[LRTortoises]

Also for your caresheet I think this is a great idea, but just your diet staple being vegetables over fruit I can't agree with. Wild redfoots eat lots and lots of fruit and zero vegetables naturally. They do consume greens in the form of naturally occurring plants but it is a small portion of total consumption. I do not know why so many caresheets put greens over fruits. I also think protein is more important for hatchlings then greens. Obviously a diet high in fruit and protein could be very hard on a tortoise who isn't able to stay hydrated. Also never feed (Grains) That would totally knock out original Mazuri diet which a lot of keepers use. I agree though grains are not at all natural for tortoises.
Please continue with your care sheet I think the more the better since we all have different methods and opinions on care.

Yeah I have been just pulling from other sources. Plus how mine have been raised by the previous owner. I agree more fruit just working on how to simplify that. I probably do about 70% fruit, 20% greens, and 10% protein. I do see mine eating a lot of grass and dandelions on their own also.

 

[SouthernRFT]

Yeah I have been just pulling from other sources. Plus how mine have been raised by the previous owner. I agree more fruit just working on how to simplify that. I probably do about 70% fruit, 20% greens, and 10% protein. I do see mine eating a lot of grass and dandelions on their own also.

I like the 70-20-10. Not to say greens or vegetables are bad and of course they enjoy them. Mine here in Florida seldom touch grass but I have found that they really like Dayflower for some reason over all other natural weeds.

 

[Pearly]

I'm so relived to hear that fruit doesn't have to be limited, as my two babies LOVE IT!!!! And fruit was one of the tricks I used to get my picky eater baby to eat. As to grain in Mazuri... I saw it in the ingredients of all 3 or 4 brands of commercial tortoise food available in my area. Frankly when trying to get our baby Tuck-tac to eat I tried everything! And he just happened to take to soaked and mashed up Mazuri (still likes to eat it) and anything that had fruit in it. I very quickly also figured out that this little guy loves his meat, not really live worms, but cooked shrimp, chicken, fish, eggs so for the first few weeks I offered that probably a lot more than recommended, just to get him used to eating. We've had our babies for 3 months now and I offer different fruit every day with their greens and other things. I still at times experiment, when rather than mixing things up I'll make separate piles of very finely chopped greens, opuntia, some fruit, mashed Mazuri or other commercial food, protein on protein day to see what the go for. Tuck-tac always goes for his Mazuri and protein, then fruit is next. Shellie has always been a great eater and she eagerly eats everything with strong preference of protein (she loves live waxworms) and fruit. Then once they are done with their main meal they started showing interest in eating off the big lettuce leaf (I always put couple of fresh leaves/flowers of various greens in their enclosure) and grazing on sprouting oat or wheat grass and various veggies that I plant after each enclosure cleaning. I'm enjoying your tread. Thank you

 

[Pearly]

Bunny trail above! Sorry! I initially wanted to comment on the original topic of your thread as I've been thinking about that quite a bit myself lately. My babies are still few years away from living outdoors but I like to plan and prepare. I too was wondering about what temps would be to low for them, so once again, great topic! Thanks

 

[tortoise5643]

Back when I had a large group of red foots, I brought them in if it hit 59. Only 60 degrees or warmer is okay in my opinion.

 

[SouthernRFT]

I'm so relived to hear that fruit doesn't have to be limited, as my two babies LOVE IT!!!! And fruit was one of the tricks I used to get my picky eater baby to eat. As to grain in Mazuri... I saw it in the ingredients of all 3 or 4 brands of commercial tortoise food available in my area. Frankly when trying to get our baby Tuck-tac to eat I tried everything! And he just happened to take to soaked and mashed up Mazuri (still likes to eat it) and anything that had fruit in it. I very quickly also figured out that this little guy loves his meat, not really live worms, but cooked shrimp, chicken, fish, eggs so for the first few weeks I offered that probably a lot more than recommended, just to get him used to eating. We've had our babies for 3 months now and I offer different fruit every day with their greens and other things. I still at times experiment, when rather than mixing things up I'll make separate piles of very finely chopped greens, opuntia, some fruit, mashed Mazuri or other commercial food, protein on protein day to see what the go for. Tuck-tac always goes for his Mazuri and protein, then fruit is next. Shellie has always been a great eater and she eagerly eats everything with strong preference of protein (she loves live waxworms) and fruit. Then once they are done with their main meal they started showing interest in eating off the big lettuce leaf (I always put couple of fresh leaves/flowers of various greens in their enclosure) and grazing on sprouting oat or wheat grass and various veggies that I plant after each enclosure cleaning. I'm enjoying your tread. Thank you

Sounds like you are doing a great job.

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Mine all live outside 24/7.
However if it will get down to 60 I provide simple heat lamps inside my dog houses and if it gets closer to 55 and below, they come indoors and are housed in my enclosed patio.
On the flip side, I've found that if it gets hotter than, say 90 degrees outside, I must use my misting systems or they all stay hidden all day long.
They are happy and healthy at 79-89 degrees and high humidity...Both are simple to reproduce her in tropical south Florida. Maybe more difficult elsewhere.