My Hermann's Tortoise isn't growing

[OctopusMagic]

Hey everyone! I absolutely love my little guy, so I figured I'd make a post to see if I should be concerned. I've had Oscar for Almost two months now, and he hasn't grown the slightest bit. I don't have a scale to weigh him, but his length hasn't increased at all. His plastron is also still very soft. I give him a calcium supplement twice a week. He feeds on fresh greens (either weeds from my yard or romaine) and mazuri daily. He has a fresh water dish, and I spray him down at least once a day. I no longer soak him, because he absolutely hated it. Should I start soaking him again every day? I'm concerned that his shell isn't getting any harder. His carapace isn't getting any softer, but I can't say if his plastron is. My biggest fear is having him dehydrate and get sick. His basking spot is around 95 degrees. I keep his Powersun about 15 inches away from his basking spot. The humidity levels are kept at 60% and above if I can help it. His temperature at night never drops below 70 or the high 60's. I also change his water every morning. Am I doing something wrong, or is he still acclimating? He seems to be a very nervous little guy, because he always pulsates I guess I'll say. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I want nothing more than to have my little guy thrive and live a long and happy life with me!

 

[gtiljen]

Take you a picture of your guy next to a golf ball or something and compare it a year from now and tell me if you still think the same thing. You see your buddy everyday and you will rarely notice these things. Your family and friends will see it a year from now and say wow and you will say what? Lord that thing has grown. Give him/her time, they start off slow at first you won't notice in two months but in a year or two years it seems like they never stop.

Hey everyone! I absolutely love my little guy, so I figured I'd make a post to see if I should be concerned. I've had Oscar for Almost two months now, and he hasn't grown the slightest bit. I don't have a scale to weigh him, but his length hasn't increased at all. His plastron is also still very soft. I give him a calcium supplement twice a week. He feeds on fresh greens (either weeds from my yard or romaine) and mazuri daily. He has a fresh water dish, and I spray him down at least once a day. I no longer soak him, because he absolutely hated it. Should I start soaking him again every day? I'm concerned that his shell isn't getting any harder. His carapace isn't getting any softer, but I can't say if his plastron is. My biggest fear is having him dehydrate and get sick. His basking spot is around 95 degrees. I keep his Powersun about 15 inches away from his basking spot. The humidity levels are kept at 60% and above if I can help it. His temperature at night never drops below 70 or the high 60's. I also change his water every morning. Am I doing something wrong, or is he still acclimating? He seems to be a very nervous little guy, because he always pulsates I guess I'll say. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I want nothing more than to have my little guy thrive and live a long and happy life with me!

 

[ascott]

Well, I would first share with you that if you maintain the entire enclosure at the higher humidity then please do not ever let the enclosure drop below 80 degrees (even at night)...

How old is your tort? Still a hatchling? And how soft is he, like squishy soft or a bit pliable?

 

[GBtortoises]

I disagree with the above information about not letting the night time temperature fall below 80 degrees. Northern Mediterranean Testudo species will grow very rapidly (accelerated growth) when kept at consistently high temperatures day and night. Hermann's, as well as other North Mediterranean species, Russian tortoises and even Egyptian tortoises are evolved to thrive in temperatures that vary 15-20 degrees from day to night time. Most other tortoise species from arid and tropical regions of the world should also not be kept at temperatures this warm at night either.
60% humidity is by no means a high level of humidity for Hermann's, Marginateds, Ibera or again even Egyptians. Regardless of daytime or night. For Hermann's anywhere from 50% to 75% is suitable. 55-65% is ideal. These ranges are not at all high even with a night time temperature drop which should take place as often as possible. Night time temperatures anywhere from 55 degrees to about 63 degrees is normal for Hermann's and other Testudo. Occasionally warmer, into the low 70's is fine as long as it isn't constant. Lower temperatures, down to 50 degrees are also fine occasionally. Outdoors with adequate shelter, even cooler temperatures are fine.
Keeping a Northern Mediterranean species of tortoise consistently too hot will very likely lead to accelerated growth rates which in severe cases will cause irreversible, lifetime growth deformities.

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Hey everyone! I absolutely love my little guy, so I figured I'd make a post to see if I should be concerned. I've had Oscar for Almost two months now, and he hasn't grown the slightest bit. I don't have a scale to weigh him, but his length hasn't increased at all. His plastron is also still very soft. I give him a calcium supplement twice a week. He feeds on fresh greens (either weeds from my yard or romaine) and mazuri daily. He has a fresh water dish, and I spray him down at least once a day. I no longer soak him, because he absolutely hated it. Should I start soaking him again every day? I'm concerned that his shell isn't getting any harder. His carapace isn't getting any softer, but I can't say if his plastron is. My biggest fear is having him dehydrate and get sick. His basking spot is around 95 degrees. I keep his Powersun about 15 inches away from his basking spot. The humidity levels are kept at 60% and above if I can help it. His temperature at night never drops below 70 or the high 60's. I also change his water every morning. Am I doing something wrong, or is he still acclimating? He seems to be a very nervous little guy, because he always pulsates I guess I'll say. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I want nothing more than to have my little guy thrive and live a long and happy life with me!

You said that you've had your tortoise for 2 months, but do you know how old it is? How big is it now, (straight carapace length). Don't be too concerned about your tortoise growing fast, in fact, just the opposite is more desirable and better for the tortoise in the long run. As long as the tortoise is healthy, growth, at the right rate, will happen.
Natural weeds are an excellent source of food but you don't mention what type of weeds? Romaine is okay too, but more variety will always be more beneficial. It gives the tortoise more opportunity to consume various vitamins and minerals. For weeds try dandelion, broad & narrow leaf plantain, clover, lambsquarter, alfalfa, chicory, crown vetch and more. For grocery store greens try escarole, endive, kale, mustard greens, beet greens, collard greens, romaine, spinach, arugula, carrot tops and more. Also offer about 15-20% vegetables such as squashes, pumpkin, green & yellow beans, peas, corn, sweet potato and others. Constantly vary the diet and always have fresh water available in a shallow, easily accessible dish.
If you keep the humidity in the range that you are, keep the substrate semi-moist (not damp or wet) and always have drinking water available you should not have any problems with dehydration. However, if your tortoise is constantly subjected to consistently hot temperatures it will be in a constant struggle to remain hydrated. Babies are very susceptible to dehydration due to their small body mass. Basking temperatures should be in the 90-100 degree range, ambient daytime temperatures should be in the low 70's to very low 80's. Northern Mediterranean tortoise species begin to become progressively less active as the temperatures increase above 84 degrees. Their prime activity temperatures are from 72-82 degrees. At night their temperatures should not be above 63 degrees on a regular basis. Anywhere between 55-63 is ideal. Occasionally cooler is fine as well as occasionally warmer into the low 70's.
If by "pulsing" you are referring to the tortoise legs and head bobbing in and out as it breathes this is normal. As they inhale and exhale it causes their head and front legs to "pump" in and out. Nothing to worry about unless it looks overly labored and/or the tortoise is trying to breath with an open gaping mouth with outstretched neck.
Depending on how old your tortoise actually is, it's plastron and to some extent, it's carapace, may not be fully hardened yet. Hardness or softness of the shell can be difficult to determine by description. One way to ensure your tortoise is consuming the calcium that it needs is to have a source constantly available for it. In the case of babies, powdered calcium works best in a small, shallow container that it can easily access. Babies will consume calcium on their own when they require it if they have easy access to it.
A better light source for a baby would be a standard (not soft white) incandescent bulb, 40 or 60 watt. This will provide basking heat and light. A tube type fluorescent lamp is an excellent source of UVB. This type of lighting also saturates the entire enclosure with not only UVB but excellent light for activity. MVB lamps provide a good source of UVB and heat, but it is very concentrated as is the light it gives off. This forces the tortoise to remain under it for unusually long periods to reap any of the benefits from it. MVB's work better for larger tortoises in larger enclosures where multiple lighting can be used.

 

[Joanne]

Thanks GBTortoises... that info is awesome for any Hermann's owners.

 

[BigBear]

Get a gram scale and a sewing cloth measuring tape. We measure & weigh our torts 3 times a year. Before hibernation, after hibernation and once during the summer when they are active.