MEE Hatching Out!

[tortadise]

I dont know. We will let Vic elaborate on that portion of it. Because it seems I will have to become accustomed to doing it this fall.

 

[Redstrike]

Wow, 76-day incubation...seems short! Congratulations!

 

[emysbreeder]

Well maybe she will get good at producing in 10 more years or so. Shes around 20 or 25 now. She had 1 egg 8 years ago with a male that set her egg cycle but died as he was an unhealthy import. So technically this is her second lay, but first legitimate lay. 39 eggs were laid. Im wondering if ambient air infiltration plays a key to expediting the bacterial growth of the eggs. None the less i have some different methods to try when she lays again this year. I did add another male with her so maybe possible to get better fertility.


What do you think about keeping substrate rather dry but humidity 100 percent. Do you the eggs need that damp not wet consistency of medium?

Kelly, First I was talking about "phayrei" the Black Mt.Tortoises having to be 40 lbs to produce a viable clutch of eggs. It is a phayrei that was an adult when imported 25 yr.ago. I just wanted to clear that up for everyone. Emys emys or the "Brown" can have a good clutch at 25lbs or maybe a little less and I'm not sure about their "breeding prime of life" YET. i just havent seen the weight/size/growth rate of offspring in my collection to make that judgement. I weigh eggs/babies/offspring growth rate for first year. I just let the numbers tell the story. You seem to know a lot about biology, but I afraid it is leading you down the wrong road and to overthinking it. All the bad stuff in your eggs most likely happened because they died, not the reason they died. But I LOVE your "tude" you have the fire in the belly for success. If you give the animals a sound diet and environment then their own immune system will work at a highly effective leavel. Now a lot of people would not aggree with me on that but my theory has been to keep a highly tuned immune system going by keeping them as stress free as possable instead of trying to fight off every known disease, chemical reactions and phenomena comming at ya. I explaned about setting up the eggs a little before but basicly I put the eggs in vermiculite that is slightly damp. There needs to be about the same amount of air space as vermic. I use plastic swetter boxes with NO HOLES. I cover the eggs half way or less at first then fill in a little over half after a week or so just to look for leaking. I then if I think its to dry add slighty damp Spagnum (sp ?)moss around and on top of the eggs. 84F +/-2F gives the highest percent of hatch with most being female on the + side for most of the incu. time or mostly males if on the -.This takes exactly 64 days for the first pip. Temps. lower than 80F will have a higher mortallity. 84-86= mostly females any higher you start to get deformed animals. Nothing is etched in shell! You can get deformed babies for other/unknown reasons. M.e.emys and phayrei eggs are incubated the same way. I'll get to "embreo studies" tomorrow. Its creapy like walking in on someone useing the bathroom....WOOPS, SORRY !!! Vic

 

[bigred]

Great read and great info

 

[tortadise]

That is some great info vic. I appreciate everything. I believe my error was not sealing them in tubs inside the incubator. There were just so many they wouldnt fit. But my attempts this year will be more fine tuned and spaced amongst more incubators. How often if any do you allow ventilation of the sweater boxes for oxegyn?

 

[bigred]

Last night when I was reading this whole topic my wife asked me, what are you doing you have been reading for along time

 

[emysbreeder]

That is some great info vic. I appreciate everything. I believe my error was not sealing them in tubs inside the incubator. There were just so many they wouldnt fit. But my attempts this year will be more fine tuned and spaced amongst more incubators. How often if any do you allow ventilation of the sweater boxes for oxegyn?

Kelly, I open them about once a week. this can be more offten if I think their to wet or to dry. If to wet there will be condensation on the top and /or sides. I whipe it off and let the top sit off to one side or all the way off if it doesnt stop. Usely one day will do it. in the last three weeks i make an air exchane more often. Like everyday! I take the lid and fan the eggs. Thouse "cant see em" kind of knats/flys are always a worry so I do it fast. Your taking a chance with them when leaving the top off like I was saying but,To much humidity will fill the egg with water and they will drownd, very likely in the last three weeks. When to dry and for other unknown reasons to me the egg will get a big crease in it. They will continue to suck in as they go. They are still developping but in the end wont have enough air space lelt. This part is what "Big Red" was asking. You can open the egg at the top. (sometimes its off center so candel first and you can see the air space. I open them (i use my fingernail) but other scaple type insterments can be used if you have a VERY steady hand. I can then push the dented area out and make more room. These big dinted ares also cause deformeties. So your tortoise is already dead, will die or be deformed so take a chanch! I take the opened egg and put it with a damp paper towell and place it in a small tupperware container. I have opened them for other stupid reasons just to see a perfect baby growing. If you make the hole just right you can leave the thin membrain in tac and watch it through a little windo by pealling a piece of shell off. IT MADDNESS, but the whole egg hatching thing is living on the thin line between stability and chaos. Vic