Lazy and not eating.

[Mr.Salty]

Our baby Sulcata hasn't been vary active or eating much if any lately. He is about 6-7 months old and we have had him for two months now. Lately he just sleeps all day. Usually doesn't look like he touches his food either. Any ideas? Been feeding him grass from a seed mix from sulcatafood.com, spring mix, and some zoo med tortoise food. Also sprinkle calcium on his food. His cage has peat moss substrate (used to be a sand peat moss mix). He has a zoomed power sun uv mercury vapor heat light that keeps his hot spot at 95-100. The rest of the tank stays in the 80's. At night he sleeps in his house that also has peat moss and is kept at 80. He used to go in there at night by himself but lately I have been having to put him in there. The humidity is between 70-80% in the enclosure. He is soaked at least every other day for 30 min. Any ideas? Worried about the little guy
He's 60mm long (the bottom of his shell) and 63 grams.

 

[sibi]

Could you tell us a little about his previous owner? The substrate you first used, you say had sand in it? How long did he use that substrate before switching it? Was he active and eating when you got him?

 

[mx3kevin]

I too am experiencing similar behavior with my Sulcata. Sounds like we have almost the exact same setup also. I believe my setup is a little dryer on humidity, but temps and substrate sound identical. We believe our tortoise is between 6-12 months, based on size. Seems he wants to lounge through most of the day in his hut. Comes out to bask for a couple hours in the afternoon and heads back to his bed. Just the same, we've only had our tortoise for about a month now and he could just be settling in to a new home. Any ideas out there? Seems, from what I've read, that he/she should be a little more active through the daytime hours.

 

[sibi]

It's not that these sulcatas are lazy. Something is not right and are exhibiting abnormal behaviors. Can you both provide a picture of your enclosures. You also should give any information of their former owners husbandry with their animals. Have you both read Tom's threads on raising baby sulcatas? I suggest if you hadn't that you start there to help solve the mystery of your baby's lack of energy. But, in the meantime, I suggest you soak your babies in warm water for at least 30 minutes two or three times daily. Hydration is vital for babies under a year old. You must soak them daily always checking that the water doesn't get cold during and between soaks. Check all ways to see what the actual temps are in their enclosure. There should be a hot spot (95-100 degrees), an ambience overall of about 82 degrees, a cool spot of no lower than 80 degrees. To do this, you would need a temp gun that can be purchased at Lowe's or HomeDepot. When you've done all this, get back to us.

 

[dmmj]

some winter slow down is usually expected because even though we provide extra heat and light during such time the tortoise istill knows. but they should still be eating but at a reduced rate moving but at a slower pace unless you have them in an enclosed chamber with no outside influence you have to expect a little bit of slow down. your temperature sound fine to me so we have to look at other factories. Light cycle, possible illness things like that

 

[Mr.Salty]

Could you tell us a little about his previous owner? The substrate you first used, you say had sand in it? How long did he use that substrate before switching it? Was he active and eating when you got him?

Bought it from http://www.theturtlesource.com/ Got him the day before thanksgiving.
I used a mixture of ¾ sand and ¼ peat moss as they suggested. Had it in there for a month probably. Then switched to just peat moss. He was active when we got him. He would sleep sometimes during the day but still ate and moved around alot more than he does now. Just the past week or two he has been very inactive and not eating anything noticeable.

 

[Mr.Salty]

It's not that these sulcatas are lazy. Something is not right and are exhibiting abnormal behaviors. Can you both provide a picture of your enclosures. You also should give any information of their former owners husbandry with their animals. Have you both read Tom's threads on raising baby sulcatas? I suggest if you hadn't that you start there to help solve the mystery of your baby's lack of energy. But, in the meantime, I suggest you soak your babies in warm water for at least 30 minutes two or three times daily. Hydration is vital for babies under a year old. You must soak them daily always checking that the water doesn't get cold during and between soaks. Check all ways to see what the actual temps are in their enclosure. There should be a hot spot (95-100 degrees), an ambience overall of about 82 degrees, a cool spot of no lower than 80 degrees. To do this, you would need a temp gun that can be purchased at Lowe's or HomeDepot. When you've done all this, get back to us.

Got a temp gun and all temps are in spec. Soak just about daily for 30+min. Read the thread. Thats why i ditched the sand and upped the humidity.

 

[Mr.Salty]

some winter slow down is usually expected because even though we provide extra heat and light during such time the tortoise istill knows. but they should still be eating but at a reduced rate moving but at a slower pace unless you have them in an enclosed chamber with no outside influence you have to expect a little bit of slow down. your temperature sound fine to me so we have to look at other factories. Light cycle, possible illness things like that

His cage is enclosed. Light cycle is 12 hours. At night the cage gets to about 65 but his house is heated where he sleeps and stays at 80. Ill post a pic in a sec

 

[Mr.Salty]

Here is his cage

 

[sibi]

Setup looks great. 64 degrees in the enclosure is way too cold even if the hide is 80 degrees at night. The hide should be about 85 degrees, and with the outer side being so cold, I can't help but to believe that temps inside fall below 80. When a baby is too cold it will not eat. If you set up a ceramic heat emitter at night in the enclosure (cage), it'll warm the enclosure enough so that the baby may start being active again. Where is the enclosure set up? Is it in a room in your house? What is the temp in that room?

 

[Mr.Salty]

Setup looks great. 64 degrees in the enclosure is way too cold even if the hide is 80 degrees at night. The hide should be about 85 degrees, and with the outer side being so cold, I can't help but to believe that temps inside fall below 80. When a baby is too cold it will not eat. If you set up a ceramic heat emitter at night in the enclosure (cage), it'll warm the enclosure enough so that the baby may start being active again. Where is the enclosure set up? Is it in a room in your house? What is the temp in that room?

It's in the living room. The house is kept at 65 in the winter. The hide is a 5gal aquarium on its side with three heat pads on three sides and foam on the other sides to insulate it. The temp probe for the controller is hanging down in the middle about two inches from the substrate. So its at least 80 in there the substrate is probably warmer since it's right above the heat pads

 

[sibi]

It's in the living room. The house is kept at 65 in the winter. The hide is a 5gal aquarium on its side with three heat pads on three sides and foam on the other sides to insulate it. The temp probe for the controller is hanging down in the middle about two inches from the substrate. So its at least 80 in there the substrate is probably warmer since it's right above the heat pads

Inside his cage reflects the temp outside the room, and as such is way too cold for the baby. When his light isn't on, believe me, it get too cold without a heat emitter. Try using it inside the cage so as to get an ambience of 80 degrees throughout the cage. That's why your baby is inactive and isn't eating.

 

[Mr.Salty]

Inside his cage reflects the temp outside the room, and as such is way too cold for the baby. When his light isn't on, believe me, it get too cold without a heat emitter. Try using it inside the cage so as to get an ambience of 80 degrees throughout the cage. That's why your baby is inactive and isn't eating.

That would cause him to be inactive and not eat over the past week or two eventho his environment hasn't changed since the day we got him? What size heat element? The cage is built under a 75gal aquarium stand to give you an idea of size about 4' x 18" x 2.5' tall
Also should he have a separate UV light besides the heatlamp uv?

 

[sibi]

That would cause him to be inactive and not eat over the past week or two eventho his environment hasn't changed since the day we got him? What size heat element? The cage is built under a 75gal aquarium stand to give you an idea of size about 4' x 18" x 2.5' tall
Also should he have a separate UV light besides the heatlamp uv?

Yes, a ceramic heat emitter is still necessary cause the UV heatlamp isn't on during the "lights out" time. With lights out, it will get cold quickly. Also, if you don't cover the top of the tank so that heat doesn't escape, it wouldn't matter how many lamps or even the heat emitter you have, it will get too cold for your baby. Remember, baby sulcatas should have above 80 degrees throughout the tank in order to thrive. They may survive 65 degree temps if they don't get sick, but they will not thrive like they should.

Because of the size of your tank and the temps in your room, I think you can get a ceramic heat emitter of more than 100 watts, but no greater than 160 w. And, I would place it in the middle of the tank as oppose to near the hide or the far end.

And yes, it can cause a delayed reaction, and it may even be that the baby is getting sick. It takes it's toll eventually.

 

[sibi]

Correction: I thought the size of his tank was 75 gallons. If the cage setup is only a five gal. then, 100 watts is enough to warm the area at night. Also, another UV bulb isn't necessary. A common light bulb could make the overall area warmer during the day. Btw, I would leave the UV light @ least 15 hours daily, not 12.

 

[Mr.Salty]

Yes, a ceramic heat emitter is still necessary cause the UV heatlamp isn't on during the "lights out" time. With lights out, it will get cold quickly. Also, if you don't cover the top of the tank so that heat doesn't escape, it wouldn't matter how many lamps or even the heat emitter you have, it will get too cold for your baby. Remember, baby sulcatas should have above 80 degrees throughout the tank in order to thrive. They may survive 65 degree temps if they don't get sick, but they will not thrive like they should.

Because of the size of your tank and the temps in your room, I think you can get a ceramic heat emitter of more than 100 watts, but no greater than 160 w. And, I would place it in the middle of the tank as oppose to near the hide or the far end.

And yes, it can cause a delayed reaction, and it may even be that the baby is getting sick. It takes it's toll eventually.

Ok ill try a ceramic heat emitter and see if that helps.

 

[Mr.Salty]

Correction: I thought the size of his tank was 75 gallons. If the cage setup is only a five gal. then, 100 watts is enough to warm the area at night. Also, another UV bulb isn't necessary. A common light bulb could make the overall area warmer during the day. Btw, I would leave the UV light @ least 15 hours daily, not 12.

No his hide is a 5gal tank (its under the pink wood cover at the left). The actual enclosure is built under a 75gal aquarium so its basically the same size of a 75gal aquarium. I have the Zoomed Merqury vapor bulb thats supposed to have UV. Is that enough or should i get another UV bulb?

 

[sibi]

How old is your MVB? If more than 6-8months old, I'd replace it with a new one cause even though the light still works, the UV properties are greatly diminished especially if it's been in use for 12 hours daily. The old bulb can be used as a regular bulb for added heat during the day, only please mark or label it as old so that you know it doesn't have the UV needed.

Ok, so the whole enclosure is 75 gal tank. As such, you can get a larger CHE. I've only ever bought a 100w myself cause I live in an area where it's never 65 degrees in my home.

 

[Mr.Salty]

How old is your MVB? If more than 6-8months old, I'd replace it with a new one cause even though the light still works, the UV properties are greatly diminished especially if it's been in use for 12 hours daily. The old bulb can be used as a regular bulb for added heat during the day, only please mark or label it as old so that you know it doesn't have the UV needed.

Ok, so the whole enclosure is 75 gal tank. As such, you can get a larger CHE. I've only ever bought a 100w myself cause I live in an area where it's never 65 degrees in my home.

Its about 2 months old.

 

[sibi]

Its about 2 months old.

It's still good. Remember to keep it on for about 15 hours daily.