Humidity?

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Hi guys I'm new to the tort world I have a 4 month old hatchling. I was wondering what humidity you keep their enclosure at? Lastly was wondering , she has formed a yellowing color under her nostrils. She still acts fine, eats fine and is active. Should I be worried? Couldn't get a good picture of it:(
 

MysticCaribou

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Hi. I don't know about the yellow coloring - is that new? For Humidity I struggle with that as well. Finally have it about 75%.
 
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At first it was just a little yellow color now a little more, I'm pretty sure it's not mucas because her nostrils are clear.
 
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Ok thanks that was what it was at? Do any of you guys keep a heat mat under any of your torts hides?
 

Yvonne G

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I've been keeping tortoises for many, many years, but only in the last 5 or 6 years have I known about humidity and pyramiding. I now keep my baby habitats covered to keep the moist, warm air inside. I have never had a gauge to measure humidity. I just wet the substrate and keep the enclosure covered.
 

Anyfoot

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Hi guys I'm new to the tort world I have a 4 month old hatchling. I was wondering what humidity you keep their enclosure at? Lastly was wondering , she has formed a yellowing color under her nostrils. She still acts fine, eats fine and is active. Should I be worried? Couldn't get a good picture of it:(
Hi Willow and welcome. We could really do with some photos of your tort and enclosure to offer advice.
 

theguy67

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I've been keeping tortoises for many, many years, but only in the last 5 or 6 years have I known about humidity and pyramiding. I now keep my baby habitats covered to keep the moist, warm air inside. I have never had a gauge to measure humidity. I just wet the substrate and keep the enclosure covered.

+1

Keeping the enclosure covered will help keep moisture in and humidity high. I use to check my hatching's humidity with a gauge but no longer do. I can usually tell when things are too dry, or too wet. I spray mine twice a day, and keep their soaking dish full. I have a layer of soil, and another layer of mulch in the tank. This allows the dirt to stay moist with the top layer of mulch to remain dry. My basking CME heats the mulch and soil, evaporating the excess water in the bottom, creating humidity. It also allows them to burrow under their hides to access moisture. Their shells are developing nicely because of this.

If you do close up the tank, a thermostat on the heating element will be necessary. One is important either way, but the risk of overheating is increased when you use a closed chamber without a thermostat.

Check out Tom's thread on "Closed Chambers", which is what we are describing. - http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/closed-chambers.32333/
 
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ZEROPILOT

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I'm not a fan of heat mats in an inside enclosure. (And no experience using them outside.)
The reason is that they super heat a small area and don't seem to effect the temperature over all.
Also. I had one under a glass aquarium and it shattered the glass one day when I added some water to the substrate.
 

jockma

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Their colors can change drastically as they grow. Bean had a very dull yellow head and just recently developed big red and orange splotches on his face and a big boost in the saturation of his colors overall. Totally normal, you'll probably see many more changes in the years to come. :)

I keep my enclosure's top almost completely closed, wire mesh and plexiglass with holes cut to fit the heat lamps. I have holes drilled in the sides for ventilation but I don't even think that is necessary. I pour water in the corners once a week or less, humidity never falls below 80%. For a hatchling I would do 85-90%+ humidity as a safeguard against pyramiding. I think 80% might be fine, though. With a smooth hatchling I'd just like to go the extra mile to keep them smooth, you know?
 
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