How old is my baby

Hunterclang

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Before I continue. I know there is no way to know how old a sulcata is without a hatch date. However the breeder told me last week when I got him he was 3 weeks old. But the breeder also told me to use aspen bedding, Romain lettuce only, and a 10g glass Aquarium [emoji23]‍♂️. But anyways here’s some pics maybe someone has an estimate? I know they say the new borns have the hatching tooth or something like that. So not exactly sure. He also has a little bit of pyramiding. I’m guessing from only Romain lettuce and living in a topless glass aquarium outside dry as dirt.
 

Hunterclang

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Lol forgot to add pics. But he’s also about 2inches long (his shell is)

IMG_9946_Facetune_29-07-2019-15-23-25.jpgIMG_9918_Facetune_29-07-2019-15-02-40.jpg
 

Ray--Opo

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Welcome he is a cutie. Let's see his underside to see if there is any remnants of the egg sack.
 

Tom

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If there is no egg tooth then he's over 6 weeks. I can't tell if there is one in your pics or not.

This tortoise has had a really dry start. Its already pyramiding in such a short time and looks like its been outside all day. I hope you can save it. Time will tell. Get a digital gram scale and weight the tortoise weekly. You want to see steady growth, and you want the tortoise to reach and pass 50 grams. That seems to be a tell tale sign that things will be okay. If they get up to around 50 grams and then stall, you've got a problem that can't be fixed.
 

Hunterclang

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If there is no egg tooth then he's over 6 weeks. I can't tell if there is one in your pics or not.

This tortoise has had a really dry start. Its already pyramiding in such a short time and looks like its been outside all day. I hope you can save it. Time will tell. Get a digital gram scale and weight the tortoise weekly. You want to see steady growth, and you want the tortoise to reach and pass 50 grams. That seems to be a tell tale sign that things will be okay. If they get up to around 50 grams and then stall, you've got a problem that can't be fixed.

Yeah. I’ve been able to keep his enclosure at 80% humidity. He’s been really active and has a great appetite. I’m gonna get a scale today and weigh him consistently. Hopefully he should be ok
 

Hunterclang

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If there is no egg tooth then he's over 6 weeks. I can't tell if there is one in your pics or not.

This tortoise has had a really dry start. Its already pyramiding in such a short time and looks like its been outside all day. I hope you can save it. Time will tell. Get a digital gram scale and weight the tortoise weekly. You want to see steady growth, and you want the tortoise to reach and pass 50 grams. That seems to be a tell tale sign that things will be okay. If they get up to around 50 grams and then stall, you've got a problem that can't be fixed.

Also, there is no egg tooth. So assuming he is over 6 weeks. Also, how severe would you say his case is? I understand he has slight pyramiding at such a young age ):, however he has been showing sides of a healthy tort I think. I’ve been able to keep his parameters perfects as well. That really worries me now didn’t know he was in such danger like this.
 

Ben02

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Also, there is no egg tooth. So assuming he is over 6 weeks. Also, how severe would you say his case is? I understand he has slight pyramiding at such a young age ):, however he has been showing sides of a healthy tort I think. I’ve been able to keep his parameters perfects as well. That really worries me now didn’t know he was in such danger like this.
Pyramiding is only cosmetic, it won’t cause any harm to your tort but it indicates that it’s environment is not right. If your tortoise is eating, drinking and moving I’d say your on the right track. Being raised dry is not a death sentence, it can be turned round and the tort can have a happy life.
 

Hunterclang

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Pyramiding is only cosmetic, it won’t cause any harm to your tort but it indicates that it’s environment is not right. If your tortoise is eating, drinking and moving I’d say your on the right track. Being raised dry is not a death sentence, it can be turned round and the tort can have a happy life.

Thank you so much!! That got me so worried. I’ve been doing everything I can to make sure everything is perfect for him! His humidity stays 78-80% and basking 100° and cool side 80°. He definitely has been eating and I’ve even managed him to just start eating mostly grass with just a little bit of collard greens mixed in. I soak him 25 mins and he always drinks a ton when he soaks!

He shows all good signs of a healthy baby except I guess the slight pyramiding from the breeder before I had him.
 

Ben02

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Thank you so much!! That got me so worried. I’ve been doing everything I can to make sure everything is perfect for him! His humidity stays 78-80% and basking 100° and cool side 80°. He definitely has been eating and I’ve even managed him to just start eating mostly grass with just a little bit of collard greens mixed in. I soak him 25 mins and he always drinks a ton when he soaks!

He shows all good signs of a healthy baby except I guess the slight pyramiding from the breeder before I had him.
The pyramiding will never go away but as long as everything is correct, it should become less noticeable as he grows. I’ve never had a sulcata so I don’t 100% know the correct humidity. @Tom will hopefully stop by again and help you out:)
 

Maro2Bear

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The pyramiding will never go away but as long as everything is correct, it should become less noticeable as he grows. I’ve never had a sulcata so I don’t 100% know the correct humidity. @Tom will hopefully stop by again and help you out:)

Right from @Tom ’s care sheet -

Pyramiding:
This is the subject of many threads in itself. I will simply state here what I know to be true based on my experience, my experiments, conversations with people who live in Africa and study African tortoises, people who have kept them for decades here in the U.S., and personal observations of thousands of tortoises in all manners of keeping styles.

There are many things listed as causes of pyramiding. I can refute each one with multiple examples. Lack of UV, lack of calcium, too much protein, too much food, the wrong foods, fast growth, wrong temperatures, small enclosures, not enough exercise, indoor housing, etc. None of these factors CAUSES pyramiding. They can all be somehow related to it, but they don't cause it. Simply put, pyramiding is caused by growth in conditions that are too dry. This is true for any species of tortoise, even the ones that don't typically pyramid. To prevent pyramiding I use a closed chamber and keep the ambient temperature 80 or higher all the time, I keep humidity around 80%, I offer a humid hide that holds 95-100% humidity, I soak daily to ensure good hydration, and I spray the carapace with plain water several times a day. Sulcatas hatch during the African rainy season. It is hot, humid, rainy and marshy. It makes no sense to keep them in a dry box, with dry substrate, and a hot desiccating bulb overhead. Simulating this rainy season has grown me hundreds of smooth leopard and sulcata babies, as well as a few other species too. There are literally hundreds of examples of other people succeeding using the same basic philosophy here on this forum. So please, don't keep sulcatas and leopards in desert-style enclosures. It is not healthy for them. They are not the least bit prone to shell rot, like some other species are, and they DO NOT get respiratory infections from high humidity as long as temps are 80 or higher everywhere in the enclosure, day and night. I don't say these things and come up with these assertions lightly. Its not that I raise
 

Hunterclang

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Right from @Tom ’s care sheet -

Pyramiding:
This is the subject of many threads in itself. I will simply state here what I know to be true based on my experience, my experiments, conversations with people who live in Africa and study African tortoises, people who have kept them for decades here in the U.S., and personal observations of thousands of tortoises in all manners of keeping styles.

There are many things listed as causes of pyramiding. I can refute each one with multiple examples. Lack of UV, lack of calcium, too much protein, too much food, the wrong foods, fast growth, wrong temperatures, small enclosures, not enough exercise, indoor housing, etc. None of these factors CAUSES pyramiding. They can all be somehow related to it, but they don't cause it. Simply put, pyramiding is caused by growth in conditions that are too dry. This is true for any species of tortoise, even the ones that don't typically pyramid. To prevent pyramiding I use a closed chamber and keep the ambient temperature 80 or higher all the time, I keep humidity around 80%, I offer a humid hide that holds 95-100% humidity, I soak daily to ensure good hydration, and I spray the carapace with plain water several times a day. Sulcatas hatch during the African rainy season. It is hot, humid, rainy and marshy. It makes no sense to keep them in a dry box, with dry substrate, and a hot desiccating bulb overhead. Simulating this rainy season has grown me hundreds of smooth leopard and sulcata babies, as well as a few other species too. There are literally hundreds of examples of other people succeeding using the same basic philosophy here on this forum. So please, don't keep sulcatas and leopards in desert-style enclosures. It is not healthy for them. They are not the least bit prone to shell rot, like some other species are, and they DO NOT get respiratory infections from high humidity as long as temps are 80 or higher everywhere in the enclosure, day and night. I don't say these things and come up with these assertions lightly. Its not that I raise

So looks like I’m on the right track. Thanks!
 

Tom

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Also, there is no egg tooth. So assuming he is over 6 weeks. Also, how severe would you say his case is? I understand he has slight pyramiding at such a young age ):, however he has been showing sides of a healthy tort I think. I’ve been able to keep his parameters perfects as well. That really worries me now didn’t know he was in such danger like this.
It looks severe on the outside, but there is no way to know what has happened on the inside without extensive, expensive vet testing. Time will tell.
 

Blackdog1714

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To quote @Yvonne G go low tech for best growth records. Pencil and paper- outline the the shell and add the date and weight so you can compare. Gives you whole shell growth not just from end to end or side to side. Good Luck!
 

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