Heat lamp help

[Mcgeo]

Hi all, I've just finished building my baby a new home and am really pleased with it (being a woman who knows nothing about DIY!). His basking light is about 7 inches above the spot, is this too close? He has quite a wide area around the heat so I'm thinking if it's too close he will go either side of the lamp?

 

[Tom]

Only your thermometer can answer this question, but 7" is probably too close. And I would not use a red bulb either. The purpose of the basking lamp is to simulate sunshine in our indoor enclosures.

I'm also not a fan of your dry substrate. I don't want to make you feel bad, but when I see a problem I like to point it out so that people have to option to improve things.

Check these out:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

 

[Mcgeo]

Only your thermometer can answer this question, but 7" is probably too close. And I would not use a red bulb either. The purpose of the basking lamp is to simulate sunshine in our indoor enclosures.

I'm also not a fan of your dry substrate. I don't want to make you feel bad, but when I see a problem I like to point it out so that people have to option to improve things.

Check these out:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

Thanks for your reply. It doesn't make me feel bad as I'm new to this so I've taken advice from the place were he was purchased. I'll definitely moisten his substrate, I'm surprised they told me to buy chippings seeings as it's very dry. Is normal soil from the garden centre okay to use? and I'm fitting a uv light tomorrow for the sunshine element. Thank you just concerned as I can't heighten the basking lamp any higher! He seems to of spent a lot of time under it today so hoping that's a good sign...

 

[Anyfoot]

Thanks for your reply. It doesn't make me feel bad as I'm new to this so I've taken advice from the place were he was purchased. I'll definitely moisten his substrate, I'm surprised they told me to buy chippings seeings as it's very dry. Is normal soil from the garden centre okay to use? and I'm fitting a uv light tomorrow for the sunshine element. Thank you just concerned as I can't heighten the basking lamp any higher! He seems to of spent a lot of time under it today so hoping that's a good sign...

If you can't raise the bulb any higher and its too hot in the basking area, use a lower wattage bulbs instead to reduce the hot spot temperature.

You need to check your temperature at tortoise level with that bulb before you go buying any more bulbs.
If the bulb you have now is 100watt and its to hot, you may need to use a 80watt for example.

 

[Mcgeo]

If you can't raise the bulb any higher and its too hot in the basking area, use a lower wattage bulbs instead to reduce the hot spot temperature.

You need to check your temperature at tortoise level with that bulb before you go buying any more bulbs.
If the bulb you have now is 100watt and its to hot, you may need to use a 80watt for example.

Okay cool. I've got the temperature dial thing that you set and the bulb kicks in when it drops below the set temp. I'll measure the heat from his level and then look at getting a lower wattage if it's too warm. Thanks!

 

[Tom]

Okay cool. I've got the temperature dial thing that you set and the bulb kicks in when it drops below the set temp. I'll measure the heat from his level and then look at getting a lower wattage if it's too warm. Thanks!

That is not what you need for this situation. The sun shouldn't be clicking on and off all day.

You first need to measure the temperature under that bulb. Next you can either get a different wattage white flood bulb until you find one that gives you the correct basking temp, or you can run an inline rheostat that would allow you to dial in the right amount of heat under your bulb. This needs to be done immediately because if your current bulb is too hot, you can do permanent damage to the carapace. The red bulb might also confuse his reptile brain about whether its day or night and cause him to not move out from under a bulb that is too hot. At night in the wild, there is no such thing as too hot, so they don't have the survival mechanism to deal with this un-natural captive situation.

Once you have the basking situation all sorted out, you will need some sort of UV source for when the tortoise is indoors. Don't let the pet shop talk you into a coil type cfl UV bulb. These can sometimes burn reptile eyes and they should not be sold or used. Get a long tube type bulb instead. This will give you light for the whole enclosure during the day, and the needed UV. Mount it from overhead and the mounting height will be determined by the type of bulb you get. A 10.0 bulb will need to be 10-12" from the tortoise to be effective. An Arcadia 12%HO bulb would need to be mounted 20-22" away since they are much stronger. You can run both of these on timers so that the "sun" rises and sets at the same time daily for your tortoise. I like to let the basking bulb come on at about 6:30am and go off at around 7-7:30pm. Then I set the brighter UV tube to come on around 9am and go off around 5 pm. This somewhat simulates the brightness and higher UV levels of the mid day sun.

You can't dampen your current substrate. It will mold. You'll need to replace it with orchid bark or coco coir. Don't let the pet shop talk you into that "Pets At Home" substrate with the limestone bits in it. That stuff is an impaction hazard.

All of this and more is explained in the two links I put in post #2 for you.

 

[Anyfoot]

That is not what you need for this situation. The sun shouldn't be clicking on and off all day.

You first need to measure the temperature under that bulb. Next you can either get a different wattage white flood bulb until you find one that gives you the correct basking temp, or you can run an inline rheostat that would allow you to dial in the right amount of heat under your bulb. This needs to be done immediately because if your current bulb is too hot, you can do permanent damage to the carapace. The red bulb might also confuse his reptile brain about whether its day or night and cause him to not move out from under a bulb that is too hot. At night in the wild, there is no such thing as too hot, so they don't have the survival mechanism to deal with this un-natural captive situation.

Once you have the basking situation all sorted out, you will need some sort of UV source for when the tortoise is indoors. Don't let the pet shop talk you into a coil type cfl UV bulb. These can sometimes burn reptile eyes and they should not be sold or used. Get a long tube type bulb instead. This will give you light for the whole enclosure during the day, and the needed UV. Mount it from overhead and the mounting height will be determined by the type of bulb you get. A 10.0 bulb will need to be 10-12" from the tortoise to be effective. An Arcadia 12%HO bulb would need to be mounted 20-22" away since they are much stronger. You can run both of these on timers so that the "sun" rises and sets at the same time daily for your tortoise. I like to let the basking bulb come on at about 6:30am and go off at around 7-7:30pm. Then I set the brighter UV tube to come on around 9am and go off around 5 pm. This somewhat simulates the brightness and higher UV levels of the mid day sun.

You can't dampen your current substrate. It will mold. You'll need to replace it with orchid bark or coco coir. Don't let the pet shop talk you into that "Pets At Home" substrate with the limestone bits in it. That stuff is an impaction hazard.

All of this and more is explained in the two links I put in post #2 for you.

@Tom.

How does the rheostat work? Does it reduce the light illumination as it restricts power?
I always thought that rheostat was an American brand name for a thermostat.
I just realised that's why I got the wrong end of the stick with that pyramiding test the other day. Doh.

 

[Tom]

Rheostats are an inline dial that reduces the voltage going to the bulb. So if you use a 100 watt bulb and have the rheostat turned all the way up, you get the full 100 watts of heat and light. As you adjust the rheostat down, less current goes to the bulb, so the bulb gives off less heat and light. This is another reason why I like the idea of a long florescent tube to be used in conjunction with a rheostat set up. They can get a little dim sometimes and the florescent tube will keep things brighter for the animals.

By contrast, a thermostat simply turns the power on when the temperature drops below the set point, and turns the power off when the temperature rises above the set point.

A timer can be used in conjunction with either a rheostat or thermostat. This can help to maintain a warmer daytime ambient temperature, but still allow a night time drop for species that need it, like Testudo.

 

[Maggie Cummings]

Plus he needs what we call a 'hide'. A house for him to go in to for privacy and to sleep in. Some use half logs (pet store) I use some logs, some wooden hand built and some plain cardboard boxes with a door cut in them. He needs to feel safe and secure. So it should be big enough for him, but small enough for him to feel safe and secure. Makes for a happy tortoise, and in my tortoise keeping it's a necessary item.
If you can't find small grade orchid bark at one of the big box stores, or a nursery, you can get coir at a pet store. Don't really buy stuff from them, these 2 items are ok to get, but a pet store's job is to sell you crap you don't need and give you bad advice. I mostly shop on line or Pet Smart for easy stuff. I NEVER listen to any clerk give me reptile advice tho....keep asking questions, that's what some are here for and you'll get the correct advice here. Tom gave you 2 important links, read them. And welcome, what state are you in?

 

[Anyfoot]

Rheostats are an inline dial that reduces the voltage going to the bulb. So if you use a 100 watt bulb and have the rheostat turned all the way up, you get the full 100 watts of heat and light. As you adjust the rheostat down, less current goes to the bulb, so the bulb gives off less heat and light. This is another reason why I like the idea of a long florescent tube to be used in conjunction with a rheostat set up. They can get a little dim sometimes and the florescent tube will keep things brighter for the animals.

By contrast, a thermostat simply turns the power on when the temperature drops below the set point, and turns the power off when the temperature rises above the set point.

A timer can be used in conjunction with either a rheostat or thermostat. This can help to maintain a warmer daytime ambient temperature, but still allow a night time drop for species that need it, like Testudo.

Thanks Tom. I wasn't aware of a rheostat. I use pulse proportional, but they cant be used with bulbs. Cheers.
Sorry for butting in @Mcgeo

 

[lisa127]

I have rheostats hooked up to all my heat lamps usually. It makes things easier. At a distance of only 7 inches I don't see how you can use much more than 25 to 40 watts without it being too intense. Also, a higher wattage bulb positioned higher up will help raise your ambient temps. A low wattage bulb 7 inches above will not.

 

[Mcgeo]

Thanks so much for all your replies I'm actually from London, England so hi all! I do have a safe place and a few little hides but they are not in the pic as I was just filling it up. I've found a little lunch box with a gap to go in and out works really well for my little guy. Can't wait to get it all finished properly and know that he's okay! I've bought a long uv light today to fit in the centre which I can dim down in the evening until it eventually switches off for night time and I've got a controlled heat dial so now I just need to messuage the temp that's reaching him to ensure its right! Thanks for all your help. The pet store was rubbish so will be buying online from now on, if they've given me wrong information about his living substrate then I don't really trust much else!

 

[Mcgeo]

Is this the Coco coir I need to purchase? And how often does it need changing?

 

[Anyfoot]

Is this the Coco coir I need to purchase? And how often does it need changing?

You can get the same stuff from homebargains at about a 3rd of the price. Less if you can get bulk bags.
If you spot clean all the poop and old food every day you won't need to change it for ages. Like a year.

 

[Anyfoot]

Thanks so much for all your replies I'm actually from London, England so hi all! I do have a safe place and a few little hides but they are not in the pic as I was just filling it up. I've found a little lunch box with a gap to go in and out works really well for my little guy. Can't wait to get it all finished properly and know that he's okay! I've bought a long uv light today to fit in the centre which I can dim down in the evening until it eventually switches off for night time and I've got a controlled heat dial so now I just need to messuage the temp that's reaching him to ensure its right! Thanks for all your help. The pet store was rubbish so will be buying online from now on, if they've given me wrong information about his living substrate then I don't really trust much else!

That stat is what I use for my vivs, never had a problem yet.

 

[Mcgeo]

You can get the same stuff from homebargains at about a 3rd of the price. Less if you can get bulk bags.
If you spot clean all the poop and old food every day you won't need to change it for ages. Like a year.

i don't have time this week to go to a store, but if it is cheaper i will next time. Is the photo i sent the right stuff and okay to order? Oh sounds great, spot cleaning it is lol!

 

[Anyfoot]

i don't have time this week to go to a store, but if it is cheaper i will next time. Is the photo i sent the right stuff and okay to order? Oh sounds great, spot cleaning it is lol!

Yeah. That's the stuff.

 

[Mcgeo]

Great, thanks everyone for your help! Certainly have lost trust in my local pet store... what a barrel of rubbish information! So excited to get everything just right eek thanks guys

 

[Mcgeo]

Hi all, I've changed my tortoises substrate and mixed a bit of the chippings in. I've now noticed he's rubbing his eyes a lot. I've attached a pic, not sure if his eyes are swollen?

 

[NDevon]

Hi Mcgeo, welcome to the forum . You have had loads of great advice, these guys all really know their stuff and helped me loads. I don't see a water bowl in the first pic, do you have a large shallow water dish for him? Tortoises like to sit in the water and soak, they drink and poo at the same time usually too.

You probably just didn't have it in the enclosure in the first pic as you did say you hadn't put everything in, so just ignore me if that's the case