GIANT tortoise needs a burrow, haaalp!

Laura Woj

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IMG_0915.JPG IMG_0952.jpg IMG_0889.JPG IMG_0950.PNG Ive got a 22 yr old 70 lb Sulcata. He's HUGE! He wants a burrow, and rather than allowing him to make one himself, Id like to control the situation. Mainly so it doesn't get out of control. I'm leaning towards this 3 wall cinder block idea, capped with plywood and buried in dirt.

My issue is this... does it need to be big enough for him to turn around in? Torts aren't great at reverse, but this guy is 2.5'x 1.75'. His turning radius is like 5'.

Any ideas? Attaching pictures of what I've found, and how big he is...

Otherwise I'm thinking about building a wooden hide box and putting a tort heater in there. Maybe he'll go for it. At his last home (him laying with the dog photo) he had a really crappy shallow wide notch taken out of a hill. Not a burrow at all, really. The previous owners said he hibernates for a few months, but.... they aren't supposed to, right?

Thank you for any help you can offer!
 

Tom

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Hello and welcome!

This is a tropical species and they do not hibernate. They need warm temps year round. Burrows don't work here in winter. The ground is too cold.

Here is what works best:
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/another-night-box-thread.88966/
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/my-best-night-box-design-yet.66867/

I've arrived at this box design after many years of trial and error. Other methods of heating and other types of doghouses, rubbermade decks or sheds, large wooden sheds, etc… have too many drawbacks. This type of box works best to meet your tortoises needs, and they are most efficient. Here is one more: https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/double-door-night-box.129054/

Here is a CAD/CAM model to help understand how it is put together:
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/h...g-of-toms-night-box-with-exploded-view.97697/
 

Laura Woj

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This is amazing information, thank you very much! We're quite handy, and I'm sure I could pull this off. Not quite as nice as yours, but it will get the job done. Thank you so much!
 

Yvonne G

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Welcome to the Forum, Laura.

I used to have shelters similar to what Tom uses, but I'm old and it breaks my back to prop open the lid then lean in with the rake and poop scoop to clean it out. So now I build actual sheds - sheds that I can walk into and stand up inside. Here's a link to the shed I built for my 110lb Sulcata, Dudley:

https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/dudleys-rebuild.111350/

I got Dudley when he was about 30lbs. He has never offered to dig a burrow, thank goodness. As long as I provide a place where he can cool off in the heat and warm up in the cold, he's totally happy with his surroundings.
 
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Big Charlie

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Welcome to the Forum, Laura.

I used to have shelters similar to what Tom uses, but I'm old and it breaks my back to prop open the lid then lean in with the rake and poop scoop to clean it out. So now I build actual sheds - sheds that I can walk into and stand up inside. Here's a link to the shed I built for my 110lb Sulcata, Dudley:

https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/dudleys-rebuild.111350/

I got Dudley when he was about 30lbs. He has never offered to dig a burrow, thank goodness. As long as I provide a place where he can cool off in the heat and warm up in the cold, he's totally happy with his surroundings.
I also wish I had rethought how I was going to clean out the night box when I built it. Mine is against a wall so the lid doesn't lift up all the way.
 

Tom

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I also wish I had rethought how I was going to clean out the night box when I built it. Mine is against a wall so the lid doesn't lift up all the way.

I prop the door up with a section of 2x4 in those cases.
 

Big Charlie

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I prop the door up with a section of 2x4 in those cases.
Thanks! That's what I've been doing. I'm thinking about attaching a hook to the wall or installing toy box hinges.
 

Laura Woj

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I prop the door up with a section of 2x4 in those cases.
Tom, what area do you live in? I'm going to start my build today, but we are in Southern California. I'm wondering if I need the insulation? My sides, top and bottom are taking to be 1/2 plywood... what do you think?
Also, I noticed on your box doors you have plastic flaps. Where do you get that stuff from?
 

Laura Woj

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Welcome to the Forum, Laura.

I used to have shelters similar to what Tom uses, but I'm old and it breaks my back to prop open the lid then lean in with the rake and poop scoop to clean it out.
That looks great! So... how dirty is this thing going to get? If they only sleep in it at night, I imagine they will do most of their pooping outdoors, right?
 
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Tom

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Tom, what area do you live in? I'm going to start my build today, but we are in Southern California. I'm wondering if I need the insulation? My sides, top and bottom are taking to be 1/2 plywood... what do you think?
Also, I noticed on your box doors you have plastic flaps. Where do you get that stuff from?

I'm in Santa Clarita, but I work in T.O. on a regular basis and have friends there too.

You DEFINITELY need insulation, and you need to seal the box as you build with GE Silicone 1, as you go along.

1/2 inch ply will be very heavy, and more expensive, but you can use it if you want. I usually use 11/32 ply, instead of the 15/32. I also use 2x2 to frame the lids, and 2x3 throughout the construction where I can, all to save weight.

Another tip that I've recently figured out solves two problems. The box tops are exposed to the sun and elements all day every day, and the paint begins to eventually peel and crack. The boxes also get hot if they are in the summer sun. To solve both of these problems, I paint the box tops every six months. I paint them white in May to keep things cooler of our hot summers, and I paint them a dark color in late October, to keep them warmer over winter. I'm thinking of trying that plastic corrugated roofing material too. It is UV protected and seems like it would do a good job of protecting the box top from rain, dew and sun, while adding hardly any weight to the lid.
 

Laura Woj

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We have this outdoor table that's getting rickety. It's legs are wobbly. It's top is a solid row of jointed 2x4s, so that should be insulating enough. I have a bunch of 2x4s and 2x6s, so I'm going to cross brace the legs (4x4s) and panel in the sides and bottom. I'll slow down for the front and put a rain guard at the opening. Tucker di Toto is 20" wide and 30" long. How wide do you think his door should be? Is 2 feet enough? That only gives 4 inches of wiggle room. I can't think you guys enough for all your advice. It's such a blessing to draw from the wisdom of the experienced!

IMG_0959.JPG
 
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Laura Woj

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I'm in Santa Clarita, but I work in T.O. on a regular basis and have friends there too.

Same area then! OK so maybe I'll change my plan. If I use the table maybe I will turn it upside down so this heavy duty top turns into the bottom. Then I'll fashion a hinged lid that can lift up. Or maybe it will be more secure if I fashion a lid that sets on, or screws down, since it will only be accessed for cleaning. A lid framed with 2 x 4's will be heavy for hinges. I do have a piano hinge sitting around somewhere though, that might work.
 

Yvonne G

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That looks great! So... how dirty is this thing going to get? If they only sleep in it at night, I imagine they will do most of their pooping outdoors, right?

WRONG!!! Of course, it all depends how lazy you are about clean up, but this is about three days worth:

poop a.jpg poop b.jpg

This is what I use to scoop it up:

poop scoop.jpg
 

Yvonne G

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Most of us line our sheds/night boxes with rigid foam, then another layer of plywood to protect the foam from the tortoise's digging at it.
 

Markw84

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Couple of suggestions...

As Yvonee mentions, use the rigid foam insulation sandwiched between plywood as Tom designs. You need the insulation to hold the heat on cool nights. Without it you will pay way too much for electricity to try to heat it.

I use EXTERIOR grade 1/4" plywood. The exterior grade makes a HUGE difference in how it will last. Ext grade plywood had all voids filled and uses an exterior grade glue for laminating the layers of wood for the plywood. Regular plywood will let moisture in much easier, and the glue breaks down even if you seal and paint it. You will see it start to buckle and "wrinkle". That is from the regular glue used and voids in the plywood. An exterior grade plywood will last about 3 times longer with all other things equal. Be sure to prime and seal, then paint with an exterior grade paint. Latex is fine. The 1/4" is much lighter, and as @Tom warns, it gets real heavy fast in building one.

Also use a door or gate hinge, also exterior rated. A piano hinge will rust out and not last long at all.
 

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