Closed Chamber Temps

cmeye11

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I built a closed chamber for my leopard tortoise, however, I think that it is holding heat and humidity in to well.

I have a 100 watt MVB on a timer set on 12 hour cycles. I also have a 65 watt CHE set on a thermostat so that if the temp in the chamber drops below 80 deg at night it kicks on.

The problem is, I think that the daytime temperature is getting to hot in the chamber. I am using an infrared temp gun to check the temperatures so I assume they are pretty accurate. The temp ranges between 101-103 directly under the MVB, 89 on the cool side of the tank, and the ambient is between 90-91 degrees. The humidity consistently stays around 82%.

Is this too hot? Any feedback that anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

Bducks16

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My concerns exactly. Mvb get to hot in a enclosed chamber. A small wattage indoor floodlight works better. A couple dollars each at a hardware store or buy a bulk box and have spared when needed.
 
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Jodie

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The 89 is a little warmer than I would want it. Not awful though I don't think. Your option would be to switch to a lower watt heat light and add tube style UVB.
 

cmacusa3

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Those are almost identical to the numbers I get. I didn't have any issues with my torts I raised in mine. I currently have a 4 month old leopard doing fantastic with those numbers. I think if you feel more comfortable dropping a few degrees that wouldn't be a problem either.
 

cmeye11

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The 89 is a little warmer than I would want it. Not awful though I don't think. Your option would be to switch to a lower watt heat light and add tube style UVB.

Do they make a lower wattage MVB less than 100 watts?
 

cmacusa3

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Can you raise the light a few inches at all?
 

G-stars

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I am speaking only for the star species.

They seem to thrive even more during the summer in their closed chambers. With temps getting up as high as 95-97F. However when it does get this high I crack the doors open a bit. Don't want it climbing any higher.

They grow a lot more during the summer time. And still bask in the mornings.
 

BrianWI

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I get him outside 4-5 days a weeks for a couple of hours each day.
With that much outside time, any UVB source is unnecessary. Use a small standard bulb for light and heat.
 

cmeye11

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The 89 is a little warmer than I would want it. Not awful though I don't think. Your option would be to switch to a lower watt heat light and add tube style UVB.

Jodie, I got my tortoise from you. It is doing awesome and my kids love him.
 

Jodie

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Do they make a lower wattage MVB less than 100 watts?
They do not. Not that I have been able to find anyway. With that much outside time you might be ok without UVB inside. Just switch to a 65 watt flood light. I think the temps are ok though. In the summer mine is sometimes this warm as well. As long as humidity is high, in my opinion, it is ok.
 

Tom

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I built a closed chamber for my leopard tortoise, however, I think that it is holding heat and humidity in to well.

I have a 100 watt MVB on a timer set on 12 hour cycles. I also have a 65 watt CHE set on a thermostat so that if the temp in the chamber drops below 80 deg at night it kicks on.

The problem is, I think that the daytime temperature is getting to hot in the chamber. I am using an infrared temp gun to check the temperatures so I assume they are pretty accurate. The temp ranges between 101-103 directly under the MVB, 89 on the cool side of the tank, and the ambient is between 90-91 degrees. The humidity consistently stays around 82%.

Is this too hot? Any feedback that anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

These match my summer numbers very closely too. MVBs run too hot for me to use in my closed chambers, so I use 65 watt flood bulbs instead. In winter I set the ambient to 80 day and night and the heat lamps creep ambient up into the mid 80s during the day. In summer, I let ambient drop down to 77-78 over night for my stars, sulcatas and leopards, and daytime ambient creeps into the low 90s. They still sometimes lay near the heat lamps even with these warm temps.

There are some types of externally ballasted MVBs that come in less than 100 watts, but there availability outside of Europe has been spotty. Look up Mega Ray and Solar Raptor brands. Those two come to mind as brands available in the US at some point in the past, but I can't say if they are still available or not.

My preference in my closed chambers has been to go with:
1. 65 watt regular floods on a 12 hour timer for some light and basking heat.
2. Long florescent tubes in the 5000-6500K color range for ambient light, set on the same timer as the basking bulbs.
3. CHEs set on a thermostat to maintain ambient day and night, 24/7.
4. If UV is needed, I like the Arcadia 12% HO tubes from http://www.lightyourreptiles.com. These bulbs emit strong levels of UVB that rival the mid day summer sun. I mount them 20-24" above the tortoises and run them on their own timer for only about four hours mid day. You can also use regular "10.0" florescent tubes, but these emit weak UVB levels and must be mounted about 10" away from the tortoise to be effective. Most people run them all day too. According to my meters (Solarmeter 6.5 and 6.2) the "5.0" bulbs produce almost no UVB and are a waste of money in my opinion, unless you just want them for lighting purposes.

I believe this system somewhat simulates what happens outside and its brought me good results.
 

cmeye11

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Thanks for everyone's input. I am going to monitor the temps very closely over the next few days. I can't raise the MVB any higher with the set up that I have, so if the temps creep any higher than what I have posted above, I think I may switch to an 65 watt flood bulb and and florescent UVB bulb, per everyone's recommendations.
 

cmeye11

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So, I did a little bit of research. There is a MVB on the market smaller than 100W. It is made by Mega-Ray Pet Care Lighting and it is a 70 watt MVB bulb. Big Apple Pet Supply sells it for $49.95 (I have included a picture). Does anyone have any experience with this bulb?
 

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