Clarification on how often to feed.

DEF

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I have 2 Sulcatas that are 2 years old which I have raised since they were hatchlings. They are currently housed outside with grass and weed grassing area and a 5’x5’ hide. I am aware of the 85/15 feeding ratio of weeds-grass-hay / greens. They get Timothy Grass pellets in lieu of hay. My question is this. When it is stated that they should not be over fed and should be fed 3 times a week, does this mean no grazing or pellets. Or does this mean feed greens 3 days a week. Currently I offer weeds grass and Timothy pellets everyday and greens 1 time per week.
 

wellington

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They should be fed daily. Wherever you got your info, it's wrong.
Also they are not to be housed in pairs, very bad for them. Please be sure to house them separately.
 

Tom

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I have 2 Sulcatas that are 2 years old which I have raised since they were hatchlings. They are currently housed outside with grass and weed grassing area and a 5’x5’ hide. I am aware of the 85/15 feeding ratio of weeds-grass-hay / greens. They get Timothy Grass pellets in lieu of hay. My question is this. When it is stated that they should not be over fed and should be fed 3 times a week, does this mean no grazing or pellets. Or does this mean feed greens 3 days a week. Currently I offer weeds grass and Timothy pellets everyday and greens 1 time per week.
Unfortunately, most of the care info found for suclatas is parroted everywhere and its all wrong. Been wrong for decades, and most of the people repeating it don't even know.

Start here and look for the sulcata care sheet at the bottom:
 

DEF

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They should be fed daily. Wherever you got your info, it's wrong.
Also they are not to be housed in pairs, very bad for them. Please be sure to house them separately.
The information out there is all over the board. Have had plans to separate them since I have moved them outside but have not done so at this time. The area they are in is 15’ x 15’ with a 5’ x 5’ house attached. One is 7” and one is 9”. They sleep in separate corners of the house and I have not witnessed them being aggressive to each other even when eating. Thanks for the response.
Unfortunately, most of the care info found for suclatas is parroted everywhere and its all wrong. Been wrong for decades, and most of the people repeating it don't even know.

Start here and look for the sulcata care sheet at the bottom:
in the last 2 years I have followed many of your conversations and totally trust what you say. Thanks very much, this covers pretty much any questions.
 

Tom

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They sleep in separate corners of the house and I have not witnessed them being aggressive to each other even when eating. Thanks for the response.
I prefer to keep them mostly indoors until they get to around 10 inches. Moving them outside too soon slows growth and increases pyramiding.

The pair thing is not about obvious overt aggression like ramming and biting. Its about the chronic stress of always having one other resource competitor and adversary always present. They rarely actually "fight" until they get nearer to maturity, but the constant low grade stress takes a toll on them. This is why one is two inches smaller than the other.
 

DEF

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I prefer to keep them mostly indoors until they get to around 10 inches. Moving them outside too soon slows growth and increases pyramiding.

The pair thing is not about obvious overt aggression like ramming and biting. Its about the chronic stress of always having one other resource competitor and adversary always present. They rarely actually "fight" until they get nearer to maturity, but the constant low grade stress takes a toll on them. This is why one is two inches smaller than the other.
I was afraid of that, the larger one has always eat faster than the little one, just thought the big one was a pig. Strangely enough though, the larger one has very little pyramiding while the smaller one has none. Thanks again for the information I will separate them. I have seen in the past 2 years bits and pieces of your information and I’m convinced you are the most knowledgeable.
 

Tom

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I was afraid of that, the larger one has always eat faster than the little one, just thought the big one was a pig. Strangely enough though, the larger one has very little pyramiding while the smaller one has none. Thanks again for the information I will separate them. I have seen in the past 2 years bits and pieces of your information and I’m convinced you are the most knowledgeable.
I don't know if I am the most knowledgable, but I've worked with a lot of tortoises, tried all sorts of experiments, and conversed with a lot of very smart, very experienced people over many many years. I've learned a few things during that time and I try to share what I've learned to help people help their tortoises. I don't know everything. No one does or ever will. But I've been fortunate to know and be mentored by some people who know an awful lot. I hope the wisdom that has been given to me will help me and all of us be better tortoise keepers.

Here is an example of a couple of heated shelters that might inspire you:


Feed them as much as they want to eat of the right foods all day every day. Its best if they have access to real grass and weeds for grazing, as yours do, and the supplemental feeding will make the grass last longer. The soaked horse hay pellets are great! I use those too. Its a great way to add fiber, variety, and the right stuff to a tortoise's diet. I typically make a big mixture of all kinds of good stuff in a bucket and then dole that out to all my tortoises. I use greens, weeds, grasses, leaves, flowers, soaked hay pellets, soaked ZooMed pellets, cactus flour, dried leaf options from Will @Kapidolo Farms , Purina Organic lay crumbles for chickens, and whatever other good stuff I can find to throw in.

Start growing spineless opuntia cactus stand now. They take a few years to mature and get going, but they are excellent tortoise food and the perfect compliment to dry hay. Find local sources, cut off pads and let them scar over for a couple of weeks, and then simply stick about a third of the dry cut end into the dirt and let them go. I don't water for about one month, and then I make a basin around the base and fill it up once or twice a week in hot summer weather. I don't water at all over winter. Soon you will have a great source of heavy bulky tortoise food that is high in fiber, water, and calcium for your tortoises.
 

DEF

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I live in Southeast Texas 90 miles east of Houston on 18 acres, mostly wooded. The 18” high fence in the photo is made from 14 gauge metal and 1-1/4 angle iron. It sits on a 4” high concrete curb. Under this I have 20 gauge metal buried 18” deep vertically. I grow hibiscus you can see in the picture. I have a 1/4 acre vegetable garden. I moved them outside in late spring when it was warm, except nights were in the mid 60’s. The heat set up was temporary until winter, when I will get the mats and overhead heat. I do lock them in every night.
 

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wellington

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How big is the area that is for them? Of course you already know to separate them. The area looks small for one.
 

DEF

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I live in Southeast Texas 90 miles east of Houston on 18 acres, mostly wooded. The 18” high fence in the photo is made from 14 gauge metal and 1-1/4 angle iron. It sits on a 4” high concrete curb. Under this I have 20 gauge metal buried 18” deep vertically. I grow hibiscus you can see in the picture. I have a 1/4 acre vegetable garden. I moved them outside in late spring when it was warm, except nights were in the mid 60’s. The heat set up was temporary until winter, when I will get the mats and overhead heat. I do lock them in every night.
I live in Southeast Texas 90 miles east of Houston on 18 acres, mostly wooded. The 18” high fence in the photo is made from 14 gauge metal and 1-1/4 angle iron. It sits on a 4” high concrete curb. Under this I have 20 gauge metal buried 18” deep vertically. I grow hibiscus you can see in the picture. I have a 1/4 acre vegetable garden. I moved them outside in late spring when it was warm, except nights were in the mid 60’s. The heat set up was temporary until winter, when I will get the mats and overhead heat. I do lock them in every night.
The walls, bottom and top are 3/4 cypress and 5/8 plywood with 2” of ridged insulation.
The bottom has 1 piece of single ply roofing membrane turned up 4” on the walls and sealed so it can be washed out occasionally. The 3 pieces you see in the photo are removable for cleaning.
 

DEF

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Aug 3, 2023
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Location (City and/or State)
Kountze texas
How big is the area that is for them? Of course you already know to separate them. The area looks small for one.
15’ x 15’ with a 5’ x 5’ House. This was meant to be a starter pen a couple months ago just to get them out of the aquarium in the house. My plans are to expand when the weather cools in the fall. It’s 102 degrees here right now.
 
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