CHE fixture and feeding surface ??'s

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tortoisenerd

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I don't know about dimmers with CHEs except that with a Google search, I see tons of people that use them, and actually highly recommend you use a CHE with a dimmer (personally, I don't want to have to use a dimmer because if the dimmer failed then it would be too warm....I just adjust the bulb height as needed and measure temps regularly to ensure its what I intend). I do know you can't use dimmers on MVBs. For example, here's a thread: http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-what-watt-ceramic-heat-emitter

Thanks for the info Edna on your use of a 60 Watt CHE with the mini deep dome!

Tom & Dean- apparently the issue isn't the wattage rating (ZooMed mini deep dome is ceramic socket and quotes 100 Watts max), but that the fixture is very narrow diameter (5.5 inches) and deep, so that the heat from a CHE apparently can't escape like it could with a typical wider diameter or less deep fixture. I imagine the manufacturer is erring on the side of caution with the warning, but heat traveling back into the cord and causing a fire is something we don't want to risk, as our setups already have some inherent risk (hot lights & flammable substrate & enclosures areas which animals can't escape). I'll have to go down to the garage and look at the box to see if it actually says that about not using a CHE (ZooMed's product web page didn't...neither did Amazon where I bought them...only seen it at Petco so far).

2. Any hard stone is good. Slate looks nicer (more natural) than ceramic tile, although both are easily available individually at home improvement stores. Most owners find that just by feeding on a hard surface, it will eliminate the need to trim the beak or nails as they will wear down naturally as they would in the wild. I find a tile much larger than the tort in a corner does pretty well, although torts love to track food (mind does it by walking on top of the food so it drags under him). A 12 inch tile will work great for a hatchling or juvenile Russian, although at over 4 inches my tort is starting to outgrow his. You want something much larger than the food pile and the tort, and something the tort doesn't have to climb up to (some people use tiny dishes with huge lips).

3. Any wood should be fine except cedar. Even pine boards are fine to use in an enclosure (but not substrate). Are you making a maze of sorts for sight barriers? Very cool, although I prefer fake plants. Cherry would look nice.
 

mousenut

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Well, I'll never clean rocks in the kitchen sink again...

I desperatly need to spell- check before hitting post ;)
 

mousenut

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pics

Pics, more plants will be added in a couple days
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coreyc

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Looks good:) what did you end up putting in the other side of the fixture?
 

Yvonne G

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I have never seen that double bell fixture before. How strange that "they" would make something like that...something that the customer would WANT to put a light AND a CHE into, then tell you it can't handle a CHE. However, it would be great for a MVB and a black/red bulb. The only problem I see with the fixture is I want my MVB at one end, and my black light at the other end. The tortoises usually sleep away from the lighted end (here at my house), so I want my night bulb at the other end of the habitat.

I really like how inventive you were with your habitat. It looks great. I've been trying to figure out what the other side of the ramp looks like. Do you think a baby would fall off upside down?

Very nice.
 

Edna

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Nice enclosure! I really like your cave/hide. How will you keep that end of the enclosure warm?
 

mousenut

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TortyQueen said:
Nice enclosure! I really like your cave/hide. How will you keep that end of the enclosure warm?

I have a server right near that corner and that room stays 70ish so heating isn't too much of an issue. I may still be getting a second fixture for the CHE anyway depending on the temp test results that I have yet to perform (still waiting on the laser therm).

Do you think a baby would fall off upside down?

Yes, I am worried a little about that but he should fall away from the MVB so at least I'd be covered in that case.

I can re-arrange about 4 or 5 different ways and there are 2 x 6" substrate pits for decent digging and planting.

Here is something everyone forgets to add to their tortoise shopping list....hand lotion. May hands are chapped like sandpaper!
 

mousenut

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A quick update, I can give a more detailed update later on with actual temps etc.

I checked the temps of the ceramic bases with the MVB on for about 4 hours and the CHE on a dimmer (always on) but with the dimmer turned all the way up and the MVB side was hotter than the CHE side so a big Family Feud "X" to that whole issue as far as I am concerned...

"Bubbles" (Bub) is a little cutie and doing really well :)
 

tortoisenerd

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Hmmm. The way I have my 2 ZooMed Mini Deep Dome fixtures with 60 Watt ZooMed ceramic heat emitters set up (about 65 F room temp), they gave about the same 140/150 F max bell temperature with PE1 temp gun as my ZooMed Deep Dome fixture with a 100 Watt T-Rex Active UV Heat bulb in it. Because of that, I haven't been worried about the setup, despite what the box and manufacturer e-mail said (but I wouldn't put any higher wattage heat emitter in there!). How much hotter are we talking about? I guess different bulbs (even if they are 100 Watt MVB & 60 Watt CHE) could yield different results as there are many variables...even if they are the same brands (likely not), just bulb vs. bulb probably varies.
 

mousenut

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The problem I'm having with reporting the actual temps is catching it while it is on again all day and remembering to measure it properly. The tops of the ceramic fixture base are different from the edge closer to the bell which is different from the center. The bell itself varies greatly from the lip to the curve to the top.

Either way, the CHE side is still slightly cooler than the bulb side that it's actualy rated for so...

I'm still planning on giving actual readings as soon as I can though, sorry for the delay.
 
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