I don't know about dimmers with CHEs except that with a Google search, I see tons of people that use them, and actually highly recommend you use a CHE with a dimmer (personally, I don't want to have to use a dimmer because if the dimmer failed then it would be too warm....I just adjust the bulb height as needed and measure temps regularly to ensure its what I intend). I do know you can't use dimmers on MVBs. For example, here's a thread: http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-what-watt-ceramic-heat-emitter
Thanks for the info Edna on your use of a 60 Watt CHE with the mini deep dome!
Tom & Dean- apparently the issue isn't the wattage rating (ZooMed mini deep dome is ceramic socket and quotes 100 Watts max), but that the fixture is very narrow diameter (5.5 inches) and deep, so that the heat from a CHE apparently can't escape like it could with a typical wider diameter or less deep fixture. I imagine the manufacturer is erring on the side of caution with the warning, but heat traveling back into the cord and causing a fire is something we don't want to risk, as our setups already have some inherent risk (hot lights & flammable substrate & enclosures areas which animals can't escape). I'll have to go down to the garage and look at the box to see if it actually says that about not using a CHE (ZooMed's product web page didn't...neither did Amazon where I bought them...only seen it at Petco so far).
2. Any hard stone is good. Slate looks nicer (more natural) than ceramic tile, although both are easily available individually at home improvement stores. Most owners find that just by feeding on a hard surface, it will eliminate the need to trim the beak or nails as they will wear down naturally as they would in the wild. I find a tile much larger than the tort in a corner does pretty well, although torts love to track food (mind does it by walking on top of the food so it drags under him). A 12 inch tile will work great for a hatchling or juvenile Russian, although at over 4 inches my tort is starting to outgrow his. You want something much larger than the food pile and the tort, and something the tort doesn't have to climb up to (some people use tiny dishes with huge lips).
3. Any wood should be fine except cedar. Even pine boards are fine to use in an enclosure (but not substrate). Are you making a maze of sorts for sight barriers? Very cool, although I prefer fake plants. Cherry would look nice.
Thanks for the info Edna on your use of a 60 Watt CHE with the mini deep dome!
Tom & Dean- apparently the issue isn't the wattage rating (ZooMed mini deep dome is ceramic socket and quotes 100 Watts max), but that the fixture is very narrow diameter (5.5 inches) and deep, so that the heat from a CHE apparently can't escape like it could with a typical wider diameter or less deep fixture. I imagine the manufacturer is erring on the side of caution with the warning, but heat traveling back into the cord and causing a fire is something we don't want to risk, as our setups already have some inherent risk (hot lights & flammable substrate & enclosures areas which animals can't escape). I'll have to go down to the garage and look at the box to see if it actually says that about not using a CHE (ZooMed's product web page didn't...neither did Amazon where I bought them...only seen it at Petco so far).
2. Any hard stone is good. Slate looks nicer (more natural) than ceramic tile, although both are easily available individually at home improvement stores. Most owners find that just by feeding on a hard surface, it will eliminate the need to trim the beak or nails as they will wear down naturally as they would in the wild. I find a tile much larger than the tort in a corner does pretty well, although torts love to track food (mind does it by walking on top of the food so it drags under him). A 12 inch tile will work great for a hatchling or juvenile Russian, although at over 4 inches my tort is starting to outgrow his. You want something much larger than the food pile and the tort, and something the tort doesn't have to climb up to (some people use tiny dishes with huge lips).
3. Any wood should be fine except cedar. Even pine boards are fine to use in an enclosure (but not substrate). Are you making a maze of sorts for sight barriers? Very cool, although I prefer fake plants. Cherry would look nice.