Ceramic heat emitter

Helazbee

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Hi I have swapped my MVB for a che plus strip light so hopefully it won't dessicate my tort shell. Problem being I can't seem to get it up to temperature, I have a thermostat and can't get my head round why it won't heat up enough
 

EllieMay

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Hi I have swapped my MVB for a che plus strip light so hopefully it won't dessicate my tort shell. Problem being I can't seem to get it up to temperature, I have a thermostat and can't get my head round why it won't heat up enough
What’s the wattage on the CHE? Can you share pics of the enclosure? What are you doing for the UV? Have to ask lots of question to make sure that you get safe answers...
 

Helazbee

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Yes thank you, I have asked many before so I think I've nearly got it right. I have arcadia proT5 with a 7% UVB strip buld. I also have a 100 watt che plugged into thermostat
 

Helazbee

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This is where I'm up to with the advice I got from this site. I have a Russian.
 

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EllieMay

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Ooh.. I am not experienced at all with Russians so I’m not going to offer you any more advice:) I’ll leave that for someone else.. I do know that it will be hard to maintain any temps in an open top enclosure... Your tort is lucky to have someone that cares enough to research his care! Well done:)
 

Markw84

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This is where I'm up to with the advice I got from this site. I have a Russian.

That configuration will not work with your setup. As @Tom always posts - there are 4 elements you need to address for heating and lighting. Let's go through them for your setup.

1- A CHE is used to maintain an ambient (minimum) temperature. IT should be on a thermostat. But... Its hard for many to grasp, a CHE does not really emit heat. IT emits infra red radiation (a type of invisible light) that heats objects that the radiation hits. Those objects will heat and in turn can heat the enclosure. This does not work well in an open enclosure other than creating a warm spot directly beneath the CHE. The ambient temperature of your whole room is going to control the temperature of the open enclosure. SO for you, all the CHE will do is keep one side of the enclosure warmer. In a closed chamber, the heat from the objects the CHE does heat is enough to easily maintain a constant temperature in the whole enclosure as the heat added is kept in the enclosure.

2- A basking light. You do not have this. A tortoise needs a basking light that emits both light and heat. An incandescent bulb is best for this. The 'heat' the bulb releases is also a type of IR like a CHE emits, but a shorter wavelength and "harsher" so we limit the wattage to mitigate. But some short IR is beneficial to a tortoise as a basking source. The light attracts them to the spot where they can heat their body using this IR. You need a basking light added to your setup.

3- UVB. You have a good UVB fixture. I prefer the 12% bulbs as I can keep the fixture higher and create a wider UV zone that covers the entire basking area more evenly. With the 7% you will have to have the bulb lower and a narrower zone of desirable UVB. The UV light should be next to the basking light as that is where the tortoise will be attracted to maintain a basking pose and better absorb the UVB.

4- Ambient light. You don't have a light designed to create the ambient lighting for your enclosure. The ambient lighting should be quite bright and come as close as reasonable to duplicating a sunlight look to the entire enclosure. You then add hides and plants to create shade and gradients. A tortoise will do amazingly better when this is provided. This should be set to a proper photoperiod that duplicates the daylight duration of the season you are trying to provide for your tortoise. I use LED lights for this. Very energy efficient, and now available in very good color quality choices to provide sunlight type lighting. This is what creates your tortoise's day and night. Most all enclosures I see are too dark. An enclosure should be lit like daytime outside in the daytime!

SO your ambient lighting creates the day and night.
The CHE provides any added needed heat to keep the enclosure from getting too cold.
The Basking light attracts the tortoise to come bask and raise its body temperature well above ambeint temperature to metabolic temperatures.
The UVB provides in the basking zone, the UVB light needed for your tortoise to metabolize vitamin D3 needed for bone growth and many metabolic functions.
 

ZenHerper

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Yes thank you, I have asked many before so I think I've nearly got it right. ...

It helps to keep things updated on your original thread...that way people don't have to keep asking the same questions. You just post your current photos and info. =))

If @Yvonne G has the time, she may be able to merge some threads for you.
 

Helazbee

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Right, so if I put the mvb back in the fitting move the strip light over to the middle/right side to spread light throughout. I need to raise the ambient temperature as its too cold overnight I believe, we are currently at the coldest time of year where I am
 

Markw84

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Right, so if I put the mvb back in the fitting move the strip light over to the middle/right side to spread light throughout. I need to raise the ambient temperature as its too cold overnight I believe, we are currently at the coldest time of year where I am
I don't know how else to explain it other than what I did above.

Your UVB strip is way too high to give any UVB at tortoise level. The only way to get it right is a UVB meter. Perhaps @ZEROPILOT has some readings from a 7% he can share to give you and idea of height. The UVB light is designed to provide UVB. IT is not a good ambient light as it is in the 7000k - 8000k color range.

MVBs we don't like at all.
 

ZEROPILOT

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I don't know how else to explain it other than what I did above.

Your UVB strip is way too high to give any UVB at tortoise level. The only way to get it right is a UVB meter. Perhaps @ZEROPILOT has some readings from a 7% he can share to give you and idea of height. The UVB light is designed to provide UVB. IT is not a good ambient light as it is in the 7000k - 8000k color range.

MVBs we don't like at all.
I can test T5 5.0, T5 10.0 and T8 5.0 (REPTISUN)for anyone that asks. But I have no access to anything but these tubes to test.
If anyone is using these tubes I can get you in the ballpark as far as your UVB level. But to eliminate the guessing both now and as the tubes age, or your enclosures change, keepers really do need to buy a UVB meter.
It pays for itself in replaced tubes pretty quickly.
 

Helazbee

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This is way more complex than I thought it would be. Give me some time and I'll get it right.

I'll get rid of the mvb and replace with a basking bulb and get more uvb strips to link together and lower them to a more suitable level.

If I get led strips like what people have in their kitchens etc?

It's difficult when you get told to buy different things as people have conflicting ideas and ways of doing it. I just want to get it right
 

Markw84

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This is way more complex than I thought it would be. Give me some time and I'll get it right.

I'll get rid of the mvb and replace with a basking bulb and get more uvb strips to link together and lower them to a more suitable level.

If I get led strips like what people have in their kitchens etc?

It's difficult when you get told to buy different things as people have conflicting ideas and ways of doing it. I just want to get it right

You don't need more UVB strips. The one you have is fine. IF you replace the 7% with a 12% bulb, and lower to about 20" it would be perfect. Just need to lower it with the 7%. Change the MVB to a regular incandescent BR30 flood bulb and hang next to the UVB. PUt the CHE over the other end of your enclosure on a thermostat to keep the hide/sleeping area to the minimum ambient you want.

You can buy LED bulbs that look like and replace the old incandescent bulbs. Just look for ones that have a 5000k - 6000k color rating. IF they list a CRI of 90+ they are very good bulbs and that is what you want if you can find it. You can easily find on Amazon. You can use a regular dome fixture for this bulb. 2 over your enclosure would be great ambient lighting.

90+CRI LED.jpg
 

Helazbee

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You don't need more UVB strips. The one you have is fine. IF you replace the 7% with a 12% bulb, and lower to about 20" it would be perfect. Just need to lower it with the 7%. Change the MVB to a regular incandescent BR30 flood bulb and hang next to the UVB. PUt the CHE over the other end of your enclosure on a thermostat to keep the hide/sleeping area to the minimum ambient you want.

You can buy LED bulbs that look like and replace the old incandescent bulbs. Just look for ones that have a 5000k - 6000k color rating. IF they list a CRI of 90+ they are very good bulbs and that is what you want if you can find it. You can easily find on Amazon. You can use a regular dome fixture for this bulb. 2 over your enclosure would be great ambient lighting.

View attachment 318225


Hi Markw34, i have been hunting for the basking bulb you recommend, I have scoured the Internet and I have been to electrical wholesalers. I just found out that in the UK we are unable to get incandescent bulbs. I shall go to my local pet shop and see what they can offer what kind of bulb am I after what wouldn't be an MVB. Sorry for the mithering
 

Markw84

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Hi Markw34, i have been hunting for the basking bulb you recommend, I have scoured the Internet and I have been to electrical wholesalers. I just found out that in the UK we are unable to get incandescent bulbs. I shall go to my local pet shop and see what they can offer what kind of bulb am I after what wouldn't be an MVB. Sorry for the mithering
Yes, we have the same issue in California where incandescent bulbs are illegal to sell. However, "specialty" incandescents can be sold. So we are forced to buy the very overpriced reptile brands. Just be sure you get an A19 style bulb or a BR30 type. Stay away from the spot bulbs which would be technically listed as "PAR30".

Here's one I use and can occasionally find on sale. Don't let the "blue" confuse you. It is a good basking bulb. The blue tinting actually helps correct the color of the light from the normal, yellowish light incandescents put off. IN a good dome, this is a good basking light.

Flukers basking bulb.jpg
 
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