Calling all Russian owners!!!

[Jacqui]

As you probably know, AnthonyC teaches a class who have done such awesome work, this Friday he is presenting them with a classroom tortoise... a Russian. He made the comment that he can not find a good Russian care thread in here. So I am asking all of you who have actually owned a Russian to make some great care of Russian posts on this thread for him, please. Let's not be redirecting him to other sites, as this thread is going to be printed off and all information must be clearly shown on the pages. That's the plan, so let's all get cracking on making this thread okay?

I want to remind Anthony's class, that you will find a lot of actually minor disagreements, as to what to use or do to create a great environment and life for your tortoise. That is common around tortoise folks, as our experiences are different, our locations different, and each tortoise is a bit different, just like each of you are. This means you need to read all the information and then pick and choose your style. You will find somethings may not work for you. That's fine. Caring for a tortoise is a constant learning and tweaking situation, where change is a constant.

 

[AnthonyC]

***THANK YOU, JACQUI & THANK ALL OF YOU FOR YOUR INPUT & SUPPORT***

Just a quick correction: Friday I will be announcing that they're getting their tortoise, and showing them the SURPRISE thread. The actual tortoise will arrive a few weeks later--to his credit Jon wants to make sure he/she is healthy prior to shipping. This is actually a GOOD thing b/c it'll allow us some time to familiarize ourselves with Russian Tortoise husbandry & prepare a proper encloser! Thanks!!

 

[tyler0912]

Bump....hope someone helps you??!!

 

[Neltharion]

When I was studying up on russian tortoises, I used a lot of the information from russiantortoise.org. Most of this information is taken from there.

Diet: Russian Tortoises are grazers and enjoy broad leaf plants. The best diet is a variety of weeds (leaves and flowers). Dandelion is a favorite. Hibiscus (flowers and leaves), Hosta, Sedum, Mulberry leaves, Ice Plants, Prickly pear flowers, fruit and pads, Dandelion, Plantain (the weed plantago major), Mallow (flowers and leaves), Henbit, Rose (flowers), Chrysanthemum flowers, Cornflowers Plagiobothrys ssp, Forsythia (flowers and leaves), Dayflower Commelina diffusa (flowers and leaves), Californian Poppy escholzia, Chia Salvia hispanica

GREENS
Most grocery stores have a decent selection of greens that Russians readily eat. Ideally the greens should be organic and pesticide free. However this is the real world and not all tortoise keepers have access to "ideal" food. So, I have this section as a starting point for a varied diet. The following greens are easily found in my local stores:
Romaine lettuce, Red and green leaf lettuce, Endive, Escarole, Radicchio, Chicory, Turnip greens, Mustard greens, Kale (small amounts), Collards, Spring Mix (mixed salad greens)

SUPPLEMENTS
One of the most important supplements is calcium. If there is a good source of UVB as with tortoises kept outdoors, a light dusting of the food with calcium daily is sufficient. Indoors use phosphorous free calcium with D3.

WATER
Unfortunately, many believe that tortoises naturally acquire almost all of their fluid requirements from its food and that therefore they do not require additional drinking water. Russians tortoises are indeed adapted to a semi-arid environment and its system of eliminating waste via uric acid rather than via urea is clear evidence of this. Uric acid can be eliminated using substantial lower levels of water wastage than can systems based on urea, such as those of mammals. A shallow dish or pan of clean water should be made available at all times. Additionally, 15-20 minute soaks four to five days a week will assist in maintaining hydration in tortoises. Water should be lukewarm or slightly above room temperature and should be deep enough to just submerge the legs and tail.

HOUSING
Rubbermaid storage containers are an inexpensive indoor pen. The 50 gallon container is an ideal starting point for one tortoise. They are light and easy to clean. They are opaque so the animal can't see out. Keep in mind that bigger is better. Humidity should be kept at around 60%. As the substrate dries out it is critical to moisten. Don't let it get dry and dusty, at the same time conditions should not be damp. Some combination of coconut coir, cypress much, or unfertilized top soil make idea substrates.

Aquariums are often recommended however, they are less ideal for tortoises. Because of the shape, air circulation can be poor. They can be challenging to keep at the proper temperatures, they are heavy and hard to clean. The clear sides can be stressful if some opaque barrier isn't extended around the bottom edge. They don't understand the concept of glass and will continually try to go through it.

Outdoor pens are by far the best option. The tortoises get the benefit of sunshine (for the synthesis of Vit D3) and exercise. A pen can also be planted with a variety of edible weeds and plants (edible landscaping). It is very important to keep in mind that Russians are escape artist. When building a pen a barrier must be dug around the perimeter at least 8" deep...deeper if the soil is easy to dig. They are amazing climbers. The pen should be a foot high with an in facing lip. Pay special attention to corners. Also of concern is predators. Raccoons are particularly notorious for getting into pens and eating turtles. It is also important to provide a warm dry retreat. I have done this by using a Rubbermaid deck box. I mounted a ceramic heat emitter in the lid (hooked up to a thermostat) and cut a hole in the side. My Russians use this instead of digging a burrow.

TEMPERATURE
Temperature is critical for a healthy tortoise. The pen should have a cool end with the temps in the low 70's and a basking spot at 90-95°F. Night time temperature drops are needed. A nighttime drop down into the 60's at night is adequate. If they are kept too cool they can't digest their food. Too warm and they stop eating and aestivate. Invest in a good thermometer with a probe. Don't use heat rocks, and under the tank heaters aren't necessary.

HUMIDITY
Humidity is an important consideration with Russian tortoises. It is also very misunderstood. There are those that claim that high humidity will cause shell rot and respiratory infection. This is only partially true. High humidity, damp substrate AND cool temperatures cause problems. In the wild they live in fairly arid conditions although I have read some reports that they are often found near streams and small lakes. They cope with low humidity by digging long burrows where the humidity is as high as 70%. In the typical indoor pen, with basking lights, air conditioning and dry substrates, humidity is often extremely low. Dehydration is a very real risk. When I must keep mine indoors I soak them at least weekly in chin deep....luke warm water. When kept outdoors, I keep clean water in the pens at all times (though I rarely see them drink). I also give them a very dry "house" and water the opposite side of the pen. This way they have a choice of micro-climates.

LIGHTING
Absent natural sunlight, some of the better lighting sources are mercury vapor bulbs, which provide heat and uvb. Some keepers use a separate light for heat and a bulb for uvb. Keep the lights on 12-14 hours a day.

HIBERNATION
Hibernation is a much debated topic. In the wild Russian tortoises hibernate up to 9 months of the year. In captivity they may hibernate as little as 8 weeks depending on region, and if allowed. Before considering hibernation, its important that you are absolutely sure its in good health. If the animal is too light then don't attempt hibernation. Many keepers do not hibernate and haven't observed any negative consequences.

 

[lynnedit]

What a nice idea!
Ok, I will babble...
Make your enclosure as big as you can manage. Two level enclosures are great because the love to climb. I have the stick-on stair grips on the ramp to help trim the nails.
Make the enclosure deep enough, at least twice the length of the tortoise after you add substrate. Or, if it is made from wood, plan to cap the entire edge. Cap the corners anyway.
You can have different substrates: Cypress mulch and/or topsoil and/or coir. I have a mix, with larger rocks forming a small 'wall', they love climbing over those.
Have at least 2 hides and be prepared to move them around to where the tortoise decides he/she wants them.
It is fine to put live plants in, but expect them to eat or trash them. They have fun doing this, though.
Keep most of the enclosure moist, at least in the lower levels of the substrate. However, mine like to burrow in hay or aspen to sleep at night, and stay cool. I separate this area with some larger rocks as well.
Let the temp go down to 65 or so at night. But during the day, have a nice MVB for basking @95 and an extra incandescent bulb to keep the enclosure brighter, still allowing the cooler side to reach about 70 or so.
Plan an enclosure outside for nicer months, where they will really come into their own. Make this bigger than you think you need as well.
Like a lot of torts, they do best if you leave them alone, meaning, don't play with them or hold them too much. They only like you because sometimes you have food.

 

[AnthonyC]

You guys are great! I know you took a lot of your own time to respond & I really appreciate it. Thank you!!

 

[tinkerbell1189]

I made half of my enclousure soil and planting some weeds in it as she loves to dig and munch on the plants

 

[dmmj]

I planted plain old bird seed in their outdoor enclosure one year and they went crazy over it and ate it all, I have often repeated this over the past couple of years.

Soma of their favorite foods are hibiscus leaves and flowers, grape leaves ( a favorite) they also like aloe vera, artichoke leaves, various squash leaves and flowers. As a treat once in awhile I fed them strawberry tops, I give them a carrot once a month to help with beak maintenance.

fruits and or vegetables should only be given once or twice a month. Stick with different squashes and the like, pumpkin is a favorite of their's.

 

[AnthonyC]

Artichoke leaves with the pointy spines attached? Most of the foods on that list are not available to me during the late fall through mid spring (hibiscus leaves/flowers, grape leaves, aloe vera, squash leaves). Now when you say veggies only 1-2x/mth does that include all of the usual greens that I give to my Sullies? (dandelion, broad leaf plantains, yellow clover, purslane, collard greens, escarole, chicory, etc)

I planted plain old bird seed in their outdoor enclosure one year and they went crazy over it and ate it all, I have often repeated this over the past couple of years.

Soma of their favorite foods are hibiscus leaves and flowers, grape leaves ( a favorite) they also like aloe vera, artichoke leaves, various squash leaves and flowers. As a treat once in awhile I fed them strawberry tops, I give them a carrot once a month to help with beak maintenance.

fruits and or vegetables should only be given once or twice a month. Stick with different squashes and the like, pumpkin is a favorite of their's.

 

[lynnedit]

All of the greens/weeds you mention are excellent choices for them. Veggies include peas, corn, peppers, carrots, etc. Either the protein or sugar content is too high for regular use.
Squash is kind of an exception, including the blossoms.
Mine love daylilly blooms.
Hibiscus (Rose of Sharon) is especially popular, both leaves and blooms; you can even plan them as seeds and they will eat the sprouts.

 

[AnthonyC]

Alright I get it now. It was the wording that kinda threw me off there. I'm going to cover my head after I say this b/c I'm afraid that the Russian Tortoise keepers are going come down hard on me for this one but....
Am I correct in saying that basically everything that I'm feeding my baby Sulcatas will be a good well-balanced diet for our CBB Russian?? Here is my complete list of Sulcata foods which I rotate of course:
chicory, escarole, red leaf lettuce, romaine lettuce, collard greens, turnip tops, kale, all squashes and their leaves & blossoms, watermelon leaves, purslane, broad leaf plantains, dandelions, portabella mushroom, celery leaves, yellow clover, sugar maple leaves, grape leaves, rose of sharon leaves & flower, grass, and I think that's it.
Anything that I should omit from this list?--Thank you!

 

[lynnedit]

uncover your head. that list looks great. Can't remember about the sugar maple leaves, but I think they are fine.
I think the big diff is that sulcatas eat grass and russians don't

 

[AnthonyC]

Thanks, Lynne. I appreciate it! Sounds like we're going to do fine. I'm going to do some shopping this evening for things for the enclosure so would a 50/50 mix of coco coir/cypress mulch suffice? How about 100% cypress mulch (saves a little $)? Oh, one last thing... Are CBB Russians supposed to be kept humid like baby Sulcatas?? Thank again!

uncover your head. that list looks great. Can't remember about the sugar maple leaves, but I think they are fine.
I think the big diff is that sulcatas eat grass and russians don't

 

[jwhite]

Anthony, the food list looks good. If your thinking of an enclosure for the classroom I am thinking that you will want something lightweight maybe easy portability. What I use for my hatchlings are those under the bed storage containers. They are plenty big for a small tort and they are also deep enough so that they can't climb out. As far a humid I do try to keep the hatchlings more humid than the adults. Their substrate is kept damp, not to the point where you can squeeze water out of it but wet enough that the substrate will hold a shape when you do squeeze.

Jon

 

[AnthonyC]

I was hoping that you'd find your way on here Jon. The only direct order that I was given by administration when I asked them about this whole thing was "They must be kept in a glass aquarium". Didn't tell me why, just made a point of saying that. Probably a power trip I was considering a 55 gallon aquarium. As far as transporting... for now I'll cart him/her back & forth in a small plastic bin. When he/she is @ my house (weekends & holidays) I was thinking about using the old sweater box that my Sulcatas were originally house in for now (80qt). Think this sounds feasible??

Anthony, the food list looks good. If your thinking of an enclosure for the classroom I am thinking that you will want something lightweight maybe easy portability. What I use for my hatchlings are those under the bed storage containers. They are plenty big for a small tort and they are also deep enough so that they can't climb out. As far a humid I do try to keep the hatchlings more humid than the adults. Their substrate is kept damp, not to the point where you can squeeze water out of it but wet enough that the substrate will hold a shape when you do squeeze.

Jon

 

[jwhite]

Anthony, that should work the only problems I have had with using aquariums is that the tortoises do not understand glass and they sometimes have a tendency to keep bumping into it. You can get around that though by putting a strip of paper around the edge of the tank so they can't see out.

Jon

 

[Utah Lynn]

Handling: Approach from its' front, slowly. Let it see you, so as to not startle it. Talk to it, softly. If you're going to pick it up, support its' feet in the Palm(s) of your hands. Hold it face-to-face and talk to it in a low voice while gently "petting" its' shell; they can feel this petting and seem to really enjoy it.

 

[zoogrl]

I will jump in here and add a few tips that I use with my Russian tortoise.

Hides: It's important to have 2 hides for your tortoise, one on the warm side and one on the cool side. You can use empty pots and bury them half way in the substrate. They also make log hides & some use plastic tubs for hides, those can help hold in humidity.

Nail/Beak care: Your tortoises nails & beak can become overgrown if not careful. I feed my tortoise on a piece of tile purchased from a home improvement store. It helps with filing down her nails & her beak while she eats. You can also get the plate looking things that go under plant pots (can't think of what they are called!) they are also helpful in filing down nails while the tortoise climbs in them.

Possible dangers: Other pets & animals can see your tort as a toy or something fun to chew on or paw at. Keep other pets away from your tort at all times whether inside or outside. A minor scratch can be very serious should it become infected. Should your tort become injured or sick be sure you have a reptile vet nearby to help you.

 

[GeoTerraTestudo]

Male Russian tortoises appear to be more aggressive than males of other tortoise species. Multiple females tolerate each other quite well, even in a relatively small pen. However, if multiple males are to be kept together, they must be in a large enclosure or given the run of the yard. Otherwise, they will fight bitterly and bite at each other. If the loser has no means of escape, then he could be seriously injured. Overtime, such harassment can lead to death. Similarly, Russian tortoises court females in a more aggressive manner than other tortoises. Tortoise courtship can be pretty rough, but that appears to be especially true with Russian tortoises. The males vigorously ram and bite at females. If the female is receptive, then the two will mate successfully. However, if the female is unreceptive, or if she is courted too frequently, then she may be injured or killed. Make sure these tortoises have plenty of space if they are to coexist peacefully. If you cannot provide this, but still want to keep more than one, then just house them separately.